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300 WM

UKMan

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Minuteman
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Apr 30, 2024
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Been wanting a better mile gun. Always had good luck with my savages for just a bench gun. Looking at the 110 tactical in 300WM for $650. 24” barrel with a 1:10 twist.

Would like to eventually rebarrel with a 26-30” in future with a 1:8 or 1:9 twist.

Gun would probably only get 100 rounds a year fired down range so cost of ammo is not an issue. For a budget minded individual does this seem like a reasonable way to go? Already have a 6.5cm that have reached out to a mile on low wind days. Thoughts? Ammo choices for 1:10 twist? I do not reload so looking at factory offerings.

Thanks guys!
 
I had a 110FP in 300wm and it was a tac driver.
The Nosler Custom 180 accubond load shot easily under 1/2 moa and the Winchester 180 gr Ballistic silver tip was a close second.
I mainly shot 200 grain game kings and 200gr accubonds though since the 180's caused more meat damage on the little central Texas whitetails and I stuck to head and high neck shots with the lighter 180's.
I would recommend starting with a 180 class bullet and go from there.
 
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IMO to reliably make impacts at a mile you need to hand load.

There's nothing wrong with a WM but to utilize the high BC bullets you need a faster twist and properly throated to maximize case capacity.
Which is where the 300 PRC comes in, it's set up to run high BC bullets right out of the box so if you insist on factory ammo that's gonna be a better option.
 
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IMO to reliably make impacts at a mile you need to hand load.

There's nothing wrong with a WM but to utilize the high BC bullets you need a faster twist and properly throated to maximize case capacity.
Which is where the 300 PRC comes in, it's set up to run high BC bullets right out of the box so if you insist on factory ammo that's gonna be a better option.


Thanks for the response. Looking at the 110 long range hunter now in 300PRC.
 
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If your starting “new” get a 300prc hands down. It’s a newer/ better 300wm. Longer neck, no rim etc.

for nothing else than get the prc for the much nicer recoil impulse.

300wm has the old school magnum slap, the prc is a much nicer shove.

Thanks for the response. Looking at the 110 long range hunter now in 300PRC.
 
You should heavily consider getting into hand loading. It's a rabbit hole but you can get away with a very basic setup. especially for that little amount you can for go the luxury stuff that saves time and just go with the basics.
This is definitely an oof level question. I want to hand load 300WM for the same reason, but I figure it's not the right caliber to reload as a beginner. Thoughts?
 
Nothing wrong with starting out on the 300 Win.
It's really no different than starting out on a 6.5 Manbun.

BTW, the 300 Win is a very accurate cartridge and getting it to shoot well is really a piece of cake.

Use mag primers at least in the beginning.
Use good brass like Lapua or ADG.
H-1000 or H4831 powder.
Berger bullets.

Don't try to chase velocity. Chase accuracy.
 
Been wanting a better mile gun. Always had good luck with my savages for just a bench gun. Looking at the 110 tactical in 300WM for $650. 24” barrel with a 1:10 twist.

Would like to eventually rebarrel with a 26-30” in future with a 1:8 or 1:9 twist.

Gun would probably only get 100 rounds a year fired down range so cost of ammo is not an issue. For a budget minded individual does this seem like a reasonable way to go? Already have a 6.5cm that have reached out to a mile on low wind days. Thoughts? Ammo choices for 1:10 twist? I do not reload so looking at factory offerings.

Thanks guys!
It sounds like you’ve got a solid setup already with the 6.5 CM for reaching out to a mile on those low-wind days, and I can see why you're considering stepping up to something like the .300 WM for a bit more punch. As far as the Savage 110 Tactical in .300 WM for $650, that seems like a solid option, especially if you’re just getting into the mile-long shots but still want a budget-friendly platform to start with. For the 1:10 twist, you'll want to stick with bullets that are within the range that barrel twist can stabilize effectively. Most factory offerings like Federal Premium Gold Medal Match or Hornady Precision Hunter in the 190-200gr range would likely do well for a mile shot. There are other good factory rounds like Black Hills or Nosler Custom that offer great precision, but with your twist rate and my little knowledge, heavier bullets above 200gr might start to get tricky to stabilize—at least for the 1:10 twist.
 
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Nothing wrong with starting out on the 300 Win.
It's really no different than starting out on a 6.5 Manbun.

BTW, the 300 Win is a very accurate cartridge and getting it to shoot well is really a piece of cake.

Use mag primers at least in the beginning.
Use good brass like Lapua or ADG.
H-1000 or H4831 powder.
Berger bullets.

Don't try to chase velocity. Chase accuracy.
Check my thoughts here.
If I bought pre-sized/prepped/trimmed brass, from someone on here or wherever. Then I just did the easy parts (priming included). I'd be focusing on powder and bullet selection, adjusting OAL, etc.. That way I can minimize things to fuck up and only do the parts that chase the accuracy from my rifle.
 
It sounds like you’ve got a solid setup already with the 6.5 CM for reaching out to a mile on those low-wind days, and I can see why you're considering stepping up to something like the .300 WM for a bit more punch. As far as the Savage 110 Tactical in .300 WM for $650, that seems like a solid option, especially if you’re just getting into the mile-long shots but still want a budget-friendly platform to start with. For the 1:10 twist, you'll want to stick with bullets that are within the range that barrel twist can stabilize effectively. Most factory offerings like Federal Premium Gold Medal Match or Hornady Precision Hunter in the 190-200gr range would likely do well for a mile shot. There are other good factory rounds like Black Hills or Nosler Custom that offer great precision, but with your twist rate and my little knowledge, heavier bullets above 200gr might start to get tricky to stabilize—at least for the 1:10 twist.


Thanks so much for the response! The 6.5cm out to a mile sure was fun, could not believe how long it took for the “ding” to come back. Definitely taking notes on the 300WM.

What are your thoughts on the savage 110 long range hunter in 300prc? 26” heavy barrel with a 1:8.5 twist. Comes with an mdt detachable magazine and muzzle break. Looking around $800. Seems like that may match up well with the Hornady 225 with that twist rate. Looks like that is also going for around $2.10ish a round so absolutely not terrible for what I would be doing.

As others have mentioned, would love to get into reloading at some point in life but that time is not now with family. It is a treasure when I can get to the range so looking for bang for the buck right now.
 
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You should heavily consider getting into hand loading. It's a rabbit hole but you can get away with a very basic setup. especially for that little amount you can for go the luxury stuff that saves time and just go with the basics.

Appreciate the response. Would love to get into reloading at some point in life but that time is not now with family. It is a treasure when I can get to the range so looking for bang for the buck right now so I can get behind glass and just shoot. Thoughts on the 300prc as others have mentioned?

Side note: to get started in the wormhole what do you recommend? Are there packages one can buy out there that has everything one needs to get the reloading ball rolling?
 
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Check my thoughts here.
If I bought pre-sized/prepped/trimmed brass, from someone on here or wherever. Then I just did the easy parts (priming included). I'd be focusing on powder and bullet selection, adjusting OAL, etc.. That way I can minimize things to fuck up and only do the parts that chase the accuracy from my rifle.
Don't buy someone else's older brass when you're trying to learn. You don't know if it'll fit in your chamber.

To make it easier, buy one box (50 pcs) of ADG brass. It's like $84.
Make sure the necks are perfectly round and then LIGHTLY chamfer the inside of the neck. Prime them carefully and then work a load up.
Since you'll be using a lighter rifle with a 10 twist barrel, just start out with the 185 Berger.
You won't need anything heavier for the time being.

Pick a factory seating depth for starters, unless your chamber has a longer throat.
Rock on.

Keep detailed records.
 
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Appreciate the response. Would love to get into reloading at some point in life but that time is not now with family. It is a treasure when I can get to the range so looking for bang for the buck right now so I can get behind glass and just shoot. Thoughts on the 300prc as others have mentioned?

Side note: to get started in the wormhole what do you recommend? Are there packages one can buy out there that has everything one needs to get the reloading ball rolling?

Yes there are. Specifically, RCBS. What you'll find is a lot of the stuff will end up in a drawer because it's worse than 3rd rate gear.

Buy the basic stuff to get you going. No need to complicate things with mandrels, annealing, wet tumbling and a host of other stuff.

The simple way to learn is to grab a reloading manual like the Hornady. It doesn't need to be the newest one. It can even be a 20 year old one.

Read the chapters on the reloading process. Skip the neck sizing stuff unless you just want to read it.
Once you're done. Read it three more times. It takes less than an hour, even if you look at all the pictures they have for reference.

This will give you a good idea on the process it takes to make safe ammunition that will go bang. And, it will most likely be pretty accurate too.
 
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Don't buy someone else's older brass when you're trying to learn. You don't know if it'll fit in your chamber.

To make it easier, buy one box (50 pcs) of ADG brass. It's like $84.
Make sure the necks are perfectly round and then LIGHTLY chamfer the inside of the neck. Prime them carefully and then work a load up.
Since you'll be using a lighter rifle with a 10 twist barrel, just start out with the 185 Berger.
You won't need anything heavier for the time being.

Pick a factory seating depth for starters, unless your chamber has a longer throat.
Rock on.

Keep detailed records.
Appreciate this!
I knew you could buy brass from a regular retailer, yet it slipped my mind there lol.
I wasn't the original poster. I'd be loading for a mk13 mod 5 :). Still 26" barrel with a 10twist though.
 
Thanks so much for the response! The 6.5cm out to a mile sure was fun, could not believe how long it took for the “ding” to come back. Definitely taking notes on the 300WM.

What are your thoughts on the savage 110 long range hunter in 300prc? 26” heavy barrel with a 1:8.5 twist. Comes with an mdt detachable magazine and muzzle break. Looking around $800. Seems like that may match up well with the Hornady 225 with that twist rate. Looks like that is also going for around $2.10ish a round so absolutely not terrible for what I would be doing.

As others have mentioned, would love to get into reloading at some point in life but that time is not now with family. It is a treasure when I can get to the range so looking for bang for the buck right now.
As for the Savage 110 Long Range Hunter in 300 PRC, I think that’s a good choice, especially if you’re not looking to break the bank. Based on what I know, the 26” barrel with a 1:8.5 twist is well-suited for those heavier projectiles like the Hornady 225s. That twist rate should stabilize them really well, and the fact it comes with an MDT detachable mag and muzzle brake is a nice touch for ease of use and recoil management. For around $800, you’re getting a lot of value, especially for something that’s going to perform at long range with that caliber. I totally get the whole “bang for the buck” mindset, sometimes reloading just isn’t an option, and factory ammo like the Hornady 225s at $2.10 a round is pretty reasonable relatively stating...for what you’re getting. Sounds like you’re thinking about this strategically, with a good mix of performance and cost-effectiveness.

Family time always comes first, so enjoying range time when you can and making the most of it is key. If you keep up with a solid setup now, you'll be all set when you eventually dip into reloading. Have you been able to get out on the range with that 300 PRC yet, or still doing research and getting ready for it?
 
As for the Savage 110 Long Range Hunter in 300 PRC, I think that’s a good choice, especially if you’re not looking to break the bank. Based on what I know, the 26” barrel with a 1:8.5 twist is well-suited for those heavier projectiles like the Hornady 225s. That twist rate should stabilize them really well, and the fact it comes with an MDT detachable mag and muzzle brake is a nice touch for ease of use and recoil management. For around $800, you’re getting a lot of value, especially for something that’s going to perform at long range with that caliber. I totally get the whole “bang for the buck” mindset, sometimes reloading just isn’t an option, and factory ammo like the Hornady 225s at $2.10 a round is pretty reasonable relatively stating...for what you’re getting. Sounds like you’re thinking about this strategically, with a good mix of performance and cost-effectiveness.

Family time always comes first, so enjoying range time when you can and making the most of it is key. If you keep up with a solid setup now, you'll be all set when you eventually dip into reloading. Have you been able to get out on the range with that 300 PRC yet, or still doing research and getting ready for it?

Thanks again for the thoughtful response! With all my firearms purchases I try to get the most bang for the buck while balancing quality with a budget in mind. Would like to buy a top of the line rifle with optic but other things come first, at the end of the day this is just a hobby (a fun one at that) for me.

I am still doing research and in the process. Already have the optic ready to roll just need to decide on the rifle going forward.