.338 Lapua Build

Neko1454

Neko1454

Private
Minuteman
Jun 11, 2020
17
5
#1
Hello all!

new to the forums, but i am embarking on my first rifle build and was looking to opinions on what i have in mind. maybe pros/cons as to the parts chosen? if something on this list you feel is not up to the standard of the rifle i'm building, let me know! I am forever learning. the purpose of the build is a long range rifle obviously, i am looking to shoot at 1000 yard by end of summer and a mile by the next. i am an experienced rifle shooter, been around them and shooting since i was 7. I have only went out to a couple hundred yards so far and i know there is a lot that goes into long range shooting but i am ready to absorb it all.

Well, here is the list =)

Chassis - Cadex Field Tactical, in Long Action, Magazine Capability of SSSF 3.775"

Long Action - Cadex CDX-R7 SHP type D (.600 bolt face)

Barrel - Hart Rifle Barrels - 6 groove 9" twist - strait max heavy varmint contour - no fluting - 30"

Muzzle Brake - Area 419 - Sidewinder (not sure what thread pitch i will be using yet? any help would be great!)

Trigger - TriggerTech - Rem 700 Diamond Trigger

Bipod - Harris - 6-9in swivel package

Monopod - Accu-shot - BT12-QK

Rings - Vortex - Precision QR Extended Cantilever Mount

Glass: Vortex - Viper PST Gen2 FFP 5-25X50

Magazines - Cadex SSSF 5 (3.775)

your assistance is greatly appreciated! =)
 
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#2
Well have a 338 myself. The only thing I see, that you might want to change, is the bipod. I learned the hard way. Had the Atlas psr, and upgraded to the 5H bipod. Best thing I ever did. Tames weapon a lot better. Some people might tell you to get a shooting rear bag, instead of monopod. I started out with one, and when I got a rear bag. Could tell the difference in my groups. Not by much, but did help. Other than that seems like you got a good plan.
 
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#3
ShootnFool8 said:
Well have a 338 myself. The only thing I see, that you might want to change, is the bipod. I learned the hard way. Had the Atlas psr, and upgraded to the 5H bipod. Best thing I ever did. Tames weapon a lot better. Some people might tell you to get a shooting rear bag, instead of monopod. I started out with one, and when I got a rear bag. Could tell the difference in my groups. Not by much, but did help. Other than that seems like you got a good plan.
Click to expand...
Would ditto on getting a better bipod. I've tried both a TBAC and a Harris (literally just to see the difference) with 338lm recently and the TBAC keeps the groups way tighter and the recoil management better than the Harris. Let some other people shoot with both, people whom are hunters and don't know anything about bipods, and they all preferred shooting with the TBAC because the Harris would take them further off target after taking a shot. I currently am looking at trying out a Cadex falcon to compare to the TBAC...
 
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#6
Thanks for the bi-pod recommendation, all i have heard people talk about is the harris bi-pods. I will definately be looking into the 5H. Im also had planned on grabbing a rear bag just in case, just for that reason! Thanks for the guidance and reassurance
 
#8
Neko1454 said:
Thanks for the bi-pod recommendation, all i have heard people talk about is the harris bi-pods. I will definately be looking into the 5H. Im also had planned on grabbing a rear bag just in case, just for that reason! Thanks for the guidance and reassurance
Click to expand...
www.snipershide.com

Precision Underground rear bags?

What do you all think of these? I've used a Str8laced that I put heavier fill in for a few years, I've also used a Tab gear rear bag; I really hate both of them. I want something that isn't difficult to adjust the height of, and that is stable.
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com

Would HIGHLY recommend a PU rear bag or 2. The wife and i have both fallen in love with the 3D bag with light fill.
 
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#12
Wouldnt a 30in barrel and suppressor look goony and actually diminish ballistics and accuracy? Everything ive read thus far says the your best ballistics come from a 29 or 30in barrel? I assumed this would have included suppressor in that?
 
#15
Neko1454 said:
Wouldnt a 30in barrel and suppressor look goony and actually diminish ballistics and accuracy? Everything ive read thus far says the your best ballistics come from a 29 or 30in barrel? I assumed this would have included suppressor in that?
Click to expand...

Negative! The suppressor has nothing to do with barrel length when people are talking about ballistics because the projectile should not be contacting the suppressor. As to how the rifle looks that's up to you and your intended use. I have a 27" barrel and a 10.5" suppressor in jail that I intend to use for LR targets and think it will look awesome.
 
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#16
Fixr said:
Negative! The suppressor has nothing to do with barrel length when people are talking about ballistics because the projectile should not be contacting the suppressor. As to how the rifle looks that's up to you and your intended use. I have a 27" barrel and a 10.5" suppressor in jail that I intend to use for LR targets and think it will look awesome.
Click to expand...

Thank you thats what i needed to know
 
#18
Steel head said:
Definitely a better bipod
5H, SCAL or Elite Iron
Long barrel.
Short barrels really slow down the 338’s.
I‘d prefer a bit more scope as well.
Click to expand...

Im on the 5H bus now, and i now understand suppressors dont need to affect barrel length, what would you suggest as "a bit more scope"? I here nothing but good from vortex so far
 
#21
A Razor G2 would not be out of place on that beast.
Sooner or later you will spring for a better scope anyways, so why not get a good one from the get go. It seems like the funds are available?
 
#22
Vargmat said:
A Razor G2 would not be out of place on that beast.
Sooner or later you will spring for a better scope anyways, so why not get a good one from the get go. It seems like the funds are available?
Click to expand...

I think thats the route ill be going - fund available but getting a little stingy and need to stop, my original budget was $3500, ive blown that out of the water already but ill be happier in the long run if i do it right up front, so ive kind of set in my head to not exceed $6500 now but we will see, ive found a ffl guy whos a dealer with cadex and can get me a discount and i have a friend in swat who offered me his officer optic discount so i think i can make it happen!
 
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#23
Another opinion i would like to get - based on the above build info, since im not currently equipped to hand load whats the best off the shelf box of .338LM for long range shooting?
 
#31
So just to key everyone in, im building the .338 instead of a 6 or 6.5 for the simple fact that i know if i built a different rifle, eventually i would want to build the rifle above and im not interested in doing all this again anytime soon. Took me 4 years to pull the trigger on this build. i am an experienced shooter with long rifles and large calibers. I would rather put the money in up front and take a harder learning curve personally - and choice of .338 was picked for the simple purpose its the most accurate round even past a mile. Im sure i wont stop at a mile so why not have the rifle for it?
 
#32
Hollywood 6mm said:
Since it sounds like you're new to long range, I would suggest you seriously reconsider the 338LM. Recoil, ammo cost, and barrel life are not going to make the 338 a very good learning experience, and it's complete overkill for 1k yards.

Just my 2c...
Click to expand...

Main question here? How can i rifle be overkill for long rang target shooting? The only sence of the word overkill here would be saying its too accurate or too good of ballistics. Which how can that be considered overkill? If i were saying i was going hunting for white tail i could understand but as a range gun that will be shot for long distance accuracy to say its overkill seems to be saying "its too good for that"... and i am absolutely A-Okay with building a rifle that is too good or better than most others rifles for 1000yards.l, why wouldnt i be?The ammo cost doesnt worry me too much as i will soon get into reloading after initial ammunition purchase - also ive heard above all the 6.5 creedmoor has a much worse barrel life than most rifles, and i know someone with a .338 that has over 6k through his and his barrel is still in fine firing condition, rifling is still great? So the only thing im getting from this is recoil which i am fully aware of prior to venturing down this route. Maybe you could further elaborate?
 
#33
You don't know what you don't know. Not to be demeaning, but your posts demonstrate that you are not an experienced shooter, at least not in the way of long range precision shooting. To get that experience, you need a caliber that isn't going to kick your ass. You need thousands and thousands of trigger pulls. If you try to get that with a .338, you will need medical help of some sort and a small fortune for ammo (assuming you don't get discouraged because that process will not be fun). The "buy once cry once" theme doesn't apply in this scenario. This isn't a controversial opinion.

That is why I suggested an AXMC where you can get your .338. And when you learn for yourself what we are saying, you can just get a new barrel, bolt, and magazines for a more manageable and affordable caliber using the same scope and accessories.

Either way you go, good luck.
 
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#34
MCHOG said:
You don't know what you don't know. Not to be demeaning, but your posts demonstrate that you are not an experienced shooter, at least not in the way of long range precision shooting. To get that experience, you need a caliber that isn't going to kick your ass. You need thousands and thousands of trigger pulls. If you try to get that with a .338, you will need medical help of some sort and a small fortune for ammo (assuming you don't get discouraged because that process will not be fun). The "buy once cry once" theme doesn't apply in this scenario. This isn't a controversial opinion.

That is why I suggested an AXMC where you can get your .338. And when you learn for yourself what we are saying, you can just get a new barrel, bolt, and magazines for a more manageable and affordable caliber using the same scope and accessories.

Either way you go, good luck
Click to expand...

Appreciate your opinion, truly, and i will second inexperience in long range precision shooting. However ive shot a laundry list of rifles, and own about a dozen from that list- ive never shot a rifle that has "kicked my ass" and i find your comment of "you will need medical help of some sort" is really subjective to the shooter, i understand a .338 kicks but how can one assume that a rifle will cause need for medical attention... i find this laughable but thank you. Its easy to make assumptions when theres a screen between 2 people so i understand
 
#35
Just curious: what are your other rifles? Any reason they aren't capable of 1,000 yards or a mile with a good optic and some tuning?

A lot of people underestimate the capabilities of what they have. Go ahead and build your .338, but I bet you can go ahead and get to the range and get some meaningful reps in now.
 
#36
MCHOG said:
Just curious: what are your other rifles? Any reason they aren't capable of 1,000 yards or a mile with a good optic and some tuning?

A lot of people underestimate the capabilities of what they have. Go ahead and build your .338, but I bet you can go ahead and get to the range and get some meaningful reps in now.
Click to expand...

Absolutely! And i definately plan to get out there first with my hunting riflr to start while im waiting for this rifle to be constructed. Personally i have a .270, 45-70gvt, 7mm mag (grandfathers gun but shares the same safe) 30-06, 223, etc. - i plan to take my .270 out to about 500yards or so, i know my grandfather rifle can do 1000yards but my best rifle for distance right now would be my .270 - my 30-06 is an m1 garand or i would use that
 
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#37
My main reason for a smaller cartridge is operating cost in relation to performance.

Every shot is twice the cost not including brass and brass is twice the price as well compared to my 260 which is surprisingly decent at a mile and a slam dunk at 1000 yards.

Hell, my 7 saum is even considerably cheaper and it’s a Lazer beam well past 1000 with mild recoil.

In fact these days I would not even bother with any 338 considering the performance or the 7mm and 300 magnums unless you pony up to something like a 33XC which has the capacity to really get 300’s up to speed.


My buddy with a 338 Norma Magnum hates my 7SAUM.
I have a flatter trajectory to 2000 than he does and almost identical wind for substantially less cost and recoil.
 
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#38
Lots of good stuff here with a little difference of opinion thrown in, also good! Debate is an organized argument which done correctly is healthy!

I'll second, third and fourth the opinions on bi-pod and mono-pod. For bi-pods I like the Cadex Falcon; I have I think now 4 or 5 Atlas bi-pods on other rifles and I like every one of them but just seem to prefer the Cadex for the .338. I bought the Falcon when I got my Cadex Kraken and it's always worked well.

Forget the mono-pod, just get a good rear bag, there's lot's of them out there, I like Warhorse Development personally. Most importantly get whatever you want, if you want a .338LM then get a .338LM or you'll just end up "always wanting one". Granted mine is a switch barrel so I also have barrels in .308 Win, 6.5CM and .300 Win Mag (someone suggested a switch I think earlier in this post), but there's also nothing wrong with a dedicated .338.

As far as recoil, here's where it gets a little funky. My .338LM has, for all practical purposes, zero recoil, none. I can shoot it off the bench with a bi-pod and rear bag without touching anything but the trigger. The rifle weighs a metric shit-ton or 20+ lbs with the scope. It barely moves; so a lot depends on your final weight. Anyway, good luck and good shooting!

P.s. I do reload, so cost for .338LM is under $1/round
 
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#39
Yeah a heavy rifle is a must for me in .338 Lapua. I’ve shot an AXMC with 300 grain OTMs and could shoot it all day. Recoiled like my 7 Rem Mag. 19 rounds with the same load in a lighter TRG-42 and I had a pounding headache and blurred vision lol. I was still shooting 5 shot sub 1/2 MOA groups but my brain was getting rattled. It wasn’t enjoyable at all.

When I was younger (early 20s) and dreamed of my first long range rifle it was going to be a .338 Lapua. There was something about that round that sucked me in. After spending a fair bit of time behind one, and loading for it, I realized it was a mistake (for me). I much prefer my 7 Rem Mag and 260 Rem long range rifles.
 
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#40
powerspc said:
Lots of good stuff here with a little difference of opinion thrown in, also good! Debate is an organized argument which done correctly is healthy!

I'll second, third and fourth the opinions on bi-pod and mono-pod. For bi-pods I like the Cadex Falcon; I have I think now 4 or 5 Atlas bi-pods on other rifles and I like every one of them but just seem to prefer the Cadex for the .338. I bought the Falcon when I got my Cadex Kraken and it's always worked well.

Forget the mono-pod, just get a good rear bag, there's lot's of them out there, I like Warhorse Development personally. Most importantly get whatever you want, if you want a .338LM then get a .338LM or you'll just end up "always wanting one". Granted mine is a switch barrel so I also have barrels in .308 Win, 6.5CM and .300 Win Mag (someone suggested a switch I think earlier in this post), but there's also nothing wrong with a dedicated .338.

As far as recoil, here's where it gets a little funky. My .338LM has, for all practical purposes, zero recoil, none. I can shoot it off the bench with a bi-pod and rear bag without touching anything but the trigger. The rifle weighs a metric shit-ton or 20+ lbs with the scope. It barely moves; so a lot depends on your final weight. Anyway, good luck and good shooting!

P.s. I do reload, so cost for .338LM is under $1/round
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, was wondering if reloading could get ammo under or right at $1 per round - and i presume this build will be 17+lbs and ive already scrapped the mono pod and am looking at different bags (game changer more or less) and ive actually been looking at the cadex bipods, and think im probably going to go that route as well
 
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#41
before I got my suppressor the blast off the brake bothered me worse than the recoil. I do shoot my other rifles(223, 6.5x47, 308) more than my 338.
I recommend finding a good instructor. I'm one that learns by doing and that has made the difference for me. Good luck and welcome to the black hole for your wallet.:)
 
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#42
Joebill said:
before I got my suppressor the blast off the brake bothered me worse than the recoil. I do shoot my other rifles(223, 6.5x47, 308) more than my 338.
I recommend finding a good instructor. I'm one that learns by doing and that has made the difference for me. Good luck and welcome to the black hole for your wallet.:)
Click to expand...

I plan on taking sigs 3 day class next spring/summer - and i believe the 1000yrd range by me offers courses as well - i definitely plan on getting with an instructor. I also have a friend in SWAT as a sniper and he offered to show me the ropes
 
#43
Neko1454 said:
Main question here? How can i rifle be overkill for long rang target shooting? The only sence of the word overkill here would be saying its too accurate or too good of ballistics. Which how can that be considered overkill? If i were saying i was going hunting for white tail i could understand but as a range gun that will be shot for long distance accuracy to say its overkill seems to be saying "its too good for that"... and i am absolutely A-Okay with building a rifle that is too good or better than most others rifles for 1000yards.l, why wouldnt i be?The ammo cost doesnt worry me too much as i will soon get into reloading after initial ammunition purchase - also ive heard above all the 6.5 creedmoor has a much worse barrel life than most rifles, and i know someone with a .338 that has over 6k through his and his barrel is still in fine firing condition, rifling is still great? So the only thing im getting from this is recoil which i am fully aware of prior to venturing down this route. Maybe you could further elaborate?
Click to expand...

Recoil isn't just about "ow my shoulder" when it comes to long range. The more important aspect is being able to keep your head in position behind the optic and the optic on target so you can watch your round impact (or miss). Seeing your own shots is a critical part of the learning process, especially if you can't take someone to the range all the time just to be your spotter. After all, how do you know what you screwed up if you can't see where the bullet went? Big magnums like 338 require VERY good fundamentals when it comes to recoil management, but building those fundamentals with a 338 is going to be a long, painful, uphill process.

Even the felt recoil is going to be an issue over long shooting days on the range, especially if you're taking a class. In a good LR class, you can easily shoot 100+ rounds a DAY. Unless you're running a VERY heavy rifle with one hell of a muzzle brake, your shoulder is not going to feel good after 2-3 days of that. Another factor is concussion - a braked 338 SUCKS to be near, and even sucks to shoot if you're at all sensitive to concussion. 200+ rounds in the process of a training class could easily wreck your sinuses and leave you miserable for a few days.

338 has solid performance at 1k - but a lot of much smaller cartridges have comparable (or even better) performance for a LOT less recoil and ammo cost. Even at 1500-2000 yards, there are smaller, cheaper, lower recoiling options that keep up or beat a 338LM. 6.5 or 7 SAUM and 300PRC come to mind. Even if you reload, 338 is still significantly more expensive than, say, a 6.5 Creedmoor - and you'll be able to shoot a LOT more 6.5.
 
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