.38/.357 Reloading

LoneWolfUSMC

Lt. Colonel
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 9, 2008
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Southern Indiana
www.8541tactical.com
I know this is a precision rifle forum, but I know a lot of you reload for handgun too and I don't feel like registering for a new forum just to ask this question.

Do any of you out there reload for .357?

I have a Taurus 66 in .357. It's got an excellent single action trigger. I would like to start doing some target shooting with it.

With the .357 cylinder would it be better to load with .357 cases or does it matter if I use .38SPL?

Does anyone have a good bullet weight and charge for target shooting at 50 yards? It doesn't have to make any certain power factor for what I am doing with it. If I shoot IDPA with it I will just throw together some hotter loads.

Currently I don't have any powder or bullets and the only brass I have is from previous firings and is barely enough to do a workup. I really haven't shot this handgun much other than to sight it in and confirm function. It's been a "nightstand" gun for a couple years, but I know it's capable of so much more.

Thanks

taurus66_1092.jpg
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

I have reloaded lots of 357 and 38. I really like shooting medium velocity 38s in a 357 revolver. I don't have any great recipes off the top of my head but I have found that loading for a revolver is very easy. I crimp mine just to make dang sure that the bullets don't jump in the cylinder and tie up your gun. Also, the biggest thing about loading handgun ammunition is it is very much possible to double charge a case and turn your revolver into a grenade.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: larbhills</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have reloaded lots of 357 and 38. I really like shooting medium velocity 38s in a 357 revolver. I don't have any great recipes off the top of my head but I have found that loading for a revolver is very easy. I crimp mine just to make dang sure that the bullets don't jump in the cylinder and tie up your gun. Also, the biggest thing about loading handgun ammunition is it is very much possible to double charge a case and turn your revolver into a grenade. </div></div>

i agree with the idea of running tame 38 special loads through a 357 for target practice it is a lot easier to shoot and more fun on a long range session. I also agree it is really easy to double charge the cases i had to pull 100 crimped 45 LC shells just because i was afraid that i double charged a couple because i was reloading with too many distractions.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

A nice cast bullet load with Unique in 38 cases is exactly how I get affordable trigger time on my 357.

158gr SWC
4.4gr Unique
Win SP primer
Moderate roll crimp

Shoots about 800fps from my 4" revolver, recoil is non-existent practically. Very nice to shoot (though it is a little smokey)

For 357 loads I like

125 XTP
21.0gr of H110
Win SP primer
Win 357 Brass
Heavy Roll crimp

It runs north of 1500fps from that same pistol, recoil is very snappy but manageable compared to most 44mag loads from a heavier revolver.

Fireballs are impressive as the light fades.

Nice pistol you have there
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Re: .38/.357 Reloading

Hello LW,
I realize many shooters load down their 357's, but I dont see the point. A person can effectively practice with a .22 for the aiming practice. That person needs to get comfortable with the real recoil, if he/she wants to excell with their shooting.

Shoot, who would load down a .50 just to get trigger time?
Any way, my 357 load is 18-18.5 grains IMR4227 and a 125 XTP. It shoot very good, and there isn't that great fireball like 296 or 110. Hope this helps.

Gam
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

I don't own a 22 revolver, so to practice with a revolver that happens to match exactly with something that I carry around I use light loads.

Also, if you're shooting steel plates with a 22 a lot of times they don't fall over when hit because it doesn't have enough smack, the 158 cast in the 38s do not have that issue with me.

There's a host of reasons to practice with a 22, but at this point I only own Ruger MkX series pistols which don't work like my revolver.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gams100459</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello LW,
I realize many shooters load down their 357's, but I dont see the point. A person can effectively practice with a .22 for the aiming practice. That person needs to get comfortable with the real recoil, if he/she wants to excell with their shooting.</div></div>

Maybe I should clarify. I am not "downloading" for practice. I want to download for competition. It would be a very poor choice to run .357mag loads in a target competition if the power factor was not needed.

The competition I am looking at wouldn't look too favorably on a .22LR.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
With the .357 cylinder would it be better to load with .357 cases or does it matter if I use .38SPL?

Does anyone have a good bullet weight and charge for target shooting at 50 yards? It doesn't have to make any certain power factor for what I am doing with it. If I shoot IDPA with it I will just throw together some hotter loads.
</div></div>

I have never been able to tell any appreciable difference in accuracy between a .357 magnum case or a .38 special in a .357 magnum revolver. Of course, the bullet jump will be greater with the .38 in a .357, but the bullet is being pushed through a generous forcing cone, and I think this has a lot to do with why either works fine.

I use .38 special cases for my quintessential "mouse fart" wadcutter load. The load I use, which is seriously accurate; is 3.1 grains of Accurate No. 2 under a Rainer Ballistics 148 grain DEWC bullet. These are really nice as they cut the paper like a razor, are plated so no lead exposure or cleanup mess, and when you're loading quickly on a progressive press you don't have to pay attention to bullet orientation as they are the same either direction. That load is safe and within published specs with a .38 special case. I have no idea what to use with a .357 magnum case.

Anyway, I have shot thousands of the above and it is my standard .38 load for plinking and practice. Child's play to shoot out a 1" square paster at ten yards, and we shoot the Texas Swingers at 50 yards with it.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

Have you tried trail boss powder yet? I shoot it a lot. Very cheap to shoot and very managable recoil inorder to get back on target quick. I will warn you that it will make a smoke cloud though. I think I use 4gr in my loads.

Btw...you can shoot 357 loads in a 38 case.....kieth did it for years. In fact he developed the loads and gun that way. The only reason there are 357 cases made was to prevent folks from chambering 357 loads in lighter frame 38s and blowing them up. With some modern loads you have to watch pressures though. Some of the new powders need the extra case space though....to keep pressures down.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

I have always just loaded the 357 light with whatever power factor I wanted at
the time. Cases seemed easier to come by, and if you shoot lead you don't have to
worry about scrubbing it out of the cyl. Plenty of powders out there to load a
357 to any speed you want.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

As for loading 38 special cases in a 357 yes you can do it. But be aware that if you do it a long time and many rounds with a cast lead bullet, you will have a lead buildup in the front of your cylinder. After I messed up my brother's S&W 66 by doing just that I had to get a friend with a chambering reamer to twist it by hand and cut the lead buildup out of each chamber. If you are going to shoot 38 special cases in your 357, load jacketed bullets.

I cast 2 different hard lead bullets for 38. 112 wad cutter that likes "ballpark" of 3.5 grains of BULLSEYE and a light crimp in the crimp groove. The other bullet is a 158 grain SWC. And it likes the SAME 3.5 grains of BULLSEYE. Go figure that one out.

The 112 wadcutter is a very light recoil target load that cuts a nice round hole.

The 357 loads I ended up loading for my brother were 110 grain hollow points and 158 grain hollow points. I can't remember the loads for them exactly. But I remember one prefered Unique and the other liked IMR-4227. My notebooks are out in the shop and it's raining right now. If you want specifics you'll have to wait until I go out there.

Any of these loads will do well at 50 yards.

It's your pistol. Shoot it as you wish. If you want to shoot a 22LR there is nothing against that. But YOU have to decide what you want to do with it.

When I was shooting standard NRA pistol (Bullseye) I loaded down 45 acp rounds that I had to put a weaker recoil spring in the pistol to work the action. I had one of my pistols accurized by a well known pistolsmith in our area. With my light loads it would group5 shots, 1 7/8" at 50 yards from his Ransom rest.

Years later when I was shooting IPSC I was shooting a 230 grain hard cast lead from an old H&G mold at between 850 and 900 FPS. (With a stronger recoil spring).

YOU decide what you want to shoot and build the load accordingly.

Good luck.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

My Cowboy Action Shooting load is outstandingly accurate in a wide variety of firearms, from my Vaqueros and 92 rifle to my LCR. I've won long range cowboy matches (from 50 to 150 yards) with it, both rifle and pistol. It's super mild, economical, and cleaner than most light loads.

Recipe:
3.0 grains Titegroup
158 grain lead round nose flat point bullet
CCI small pistol primer
Firm crimp
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

I actually have a pound of Titegroup in the garage that I was going to use when I was goofing round with subs. I think I may just pickup some of those plated bullets and give it a go. I really don't dig working with lead. I will when I need to, but if I can get good accuracy with TMJ or plated then I will spend the little extra.

It also seems it will prevent the lead ring in the cylinder you guys are taking about. This is definitely an issue for me since I will be keeping it loaded with .357 defensive ammo when I am not actively shooting it.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
It also seems it will prevent the lead ring in the cylinder you guys are taking about. This is definitely an issue for me since I will be keeping it loaded with .357 defensive ammo when I am not actively shooting it. </div></div>

Actually, most of the time the ring isn't predominately caused by lead...it's carbon fouling. Certain powders are worse than others, but left to build up, it will begin swaging down the bullets and scraping plating, lead, or gilding metal (depending on the bullet type) and build up an amalgam of crap that destroys accuracy and prohibits chambering of longer cartridges. I can drop 357 mags into my Vaqueros even after firing several hundred 38 Cowboy loads (and without cleaning) with no problem. My bullets are fairly soft and the lube is, too. I suffer no leading whatsoever.

If you plan on shooting 38s in a 357, a wise investment is a Lewis Lead Remover. It uses a brass screen supported by a rubber mandrel to thoroughly and safely remove carbon and lead fouling in chambers, forcing cones, and barrels.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

Berrys MFG makes a very good bullet for use in 38 and 357 light loads as long as you don't exceed 1200FPS. No exposed lead and they are alot less money than the TMJ's
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

+1 for Berry's. I have been loading the 125's with 20 Gr of H110. Running 1240 FPS out of my 2.25 inch SP101. I did load some reduced recoil loads for the wife with the same bullet and Titegroup, but I don't remember the charge weight. The Berry's bullets held up really good, even with the fast mag loads. But work up and watch for signs of the bullets not liking the speed.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

I forgot to add Cabelas is offering free shipping and they sell Berrys Bullets and they are on sale. They are also giving $20 off on purchases over $100.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I doubt your Taurus will hold up for IDPA competition. It will get you started but...thousands of rounds a year? </div></div>

Seen many Taurus revolvers fail? Their autos suck, but I have not seen many reliability issues with the older revolvers. They are a S&W design built with S&W tooling in Brazil.

However, the 66 is not usually what I shoot for IDPA. I like to bring it out from time to time because it makes the old guys happy and it's fun as hell to smoke some pistol times with a wheelgun. Most of the time I shoot my Combat Commander or G21 in my duty rig.

I am looking at more of the long range "bullseye" type competitions for the Taurus.
 
Re: .38/.357 Reloading

I too have the Taurus 66, 6" Nickel. That was my first handgun, over 20 years ago. And yes, I also learned about the 'fouled chamber' be it lead/carbon fouling.

That being said, the gun will do what you want until you outshoot it. By all means, get into it, and let us know how you do. I had looked towards replacing/slabsiding the barrel and going into PPC many years ago, but life's opportunities sometimes take us in other directions.

Get out there, start doing it, learn, and enjoy. Then look at what you need to upgrade.

Loads, for "target cutting" were either 158gr Semi-wadcutters, and when I could find them, full-wadcutters. Launched with:
Bullseye-----sharpest....
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2400---------smoothest...
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Unique-------DIRTYEST....
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After each session at the range, I'd come home looking like a coal-miner so I got rid of the Unique right quick. YMMV. I liked the 2400 the best for both function and performance. Bullseye being the most economical (least powder used per round) but it was quite "sharp" comparatively.

Shortest and Strongest piece of advice I can offer, use only .357 brass, and tailor your load to what you want. SAFELY.

Hope this helps, and enjoy. Merry Christmas!!!