40X 22 stock
- Thread starter DCB
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Your 40X stock if in good shape likely has a value that makes it not desirable to modify. Even if you did modify it would not be recognizable as an M40.
Look up Taylor Precision Engineering.
They are making up a line of black walnut stocks in the original M40 sniper rifle profile and a walnut McMillan HTG style.
Kyle is a vendor on the Hide...
Here is a page of his stocks....
https://taylorprecisioneng.com/t/m40-stocks.
Here is his latest ad....
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forum/...tocks-for-sale
Look up Taylor Precision Engineering.
They are making up a line of black walnut stocks in the original M40 sniper rifle profile and a walnut McMillan HTG style.
Kyle is a vendor on the Hide...
Here is a page of his stocks....
https://taylorprecisioneng.com/t/m40-stocks.
Here is his latest ad....
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forum/...tocks-for-sale
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I have a half dozen or so 40X stocks that you may be able to use as well. They were "project" stocks.
Email me at [email protected] if you would like more info.
Thanks,
Kyle
Hello Kyle. I have been admiring your stock work over on M40rifle...
Just out of curiosity, what does a "typical" M40 black walnut stock weigh?
And, have you done, or are you considering, working on newer generation M40 stocks (like A-3 or A-5) in Walnut? Maybe it's a crazy idea, but I was just thinking out loud a bit.
Feel free to PM if you like. Maybe a phone call later and we can swap 'woodworking war stories'...
Just out of curiosity, what does a "typical" M40 black walnut stock weigh?
And, have you done, or are you considering, working on newer generation M40 stocks (like A-3 or A-5) in Walnut? Maybe it's a crazy idea, but I was just thinking out loud a bit.
Feel free to PM if you like. Maybe a phone call later and we can swap 'woodworking war stories'...
A Walnut M40A5 stock hmmmm sounds neat
Kyle if you investigate a wood stock with that sort of wrist/pistol grip be wary of a weakness in the wood.
Finns had a sniper with similar design...
and they were prone to cracking at the grip.
Im sure caliber matters.
Kyle if you investigate a wood stock with that sort of wrist/pistol grip be wary of a weakness in the wood.
Finns had a sniper with similar design...
and they were prone to cracking at the grip.
Im sure caliber matters.
Caliber and grain orientation.
If it was a "quarter sawn" set up (which would actually be flat sawn due to configuration) and really straight grain, I think it'd hold together. But you are right, that would be a weak point... talk about scope "eyebrow"... damn. That one might be permanent!
if the grain is straight and running top to bottom it has the best chance of survival. Grain running across, side to side, and it will be more prone to failure.
Downside is The wood will move left to right if it does at all, whereas flat sawn will move up and down if it does. Depending on how much barrel relief you have, contact could happen.
You could also also do a laminate with a sugar maple core and black walnut on either side. I'd still orient the grain top to bottom. Maybe some blood wood veneer for color in between.
I did a few solid quarter sawn (bolt on) necks and all my neck-thru body ones were laminated quarter sawn sugar maple ironically with black walnut veneers at the glue lines (mainly for appearance) and those are very stable. But I also air dried my boards after they were kiln dried, and the glued up blanks were also allowed to age at least a half year before moving on to more work.
If it was a "quarter sawn" set up (which would actually be flat sawn due to configuration) and really straight grain, I think it'd hold together. But you are right, that would be a weak point... talk about scope "eyebrow"... damn. That one might be permanent!
if the grain is straight and running top to bottom it has the best chance of survival. Grain running across, side to side, and it will be more prone to failure.
Downside is The wood will move left to right if it does at all, whereas flat sawn will move up and down if it does. Depending on how much barrel relief you have, contact could happen.
You could also also do a laminate with a sugar maple core and black walnut on either side. I'd still orient the grain top to bottom. Maybe some blood wood veneer for color in between.
I did a few solid quarter sawn (bolt on) necks and all my neck-thru body ones were laminated quarter sawn sugar maple ironically with black walnut veneers at the glue lines (mainly for appearance) and those are very stable. But I also air dried my boards after they were kiln dried, and the glued up blanks were also allowed to age at least a half year before moving on to more work.
I am looking at doing some solid hardwood more tactical style stocks, but I would recommend them more for the Rimfires, the 40X or Vudoo V-22.
I have a veneered one here that one of my partners did. It is substantial, but to me not as attractive as solid wood or as functional as one of the fiberglass units.
I have a veneered one here that one of my partners did. It is substantial, but to me not as attractive as solid wood or as functional as one of the fiberglass units.
