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5.56/.223 suppressor build... flow through design question ??

Green461

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 29, 2024
156
276
Janesville, WI
www.youtube.com
I built this last year and fired it a few times. Only my first cone had 3 small holes drilled in it for vents, second cone had 2, then none of the others.. why? I dont know why ... but I am getting a ton of gas blowing down into the mag and really dirty. My thoughts are to drill them all out with the 6 small radial holes like second picture and the end cap put a few vents as well. Hopefully to mitigate some gas.
This suppressor is a bit louder than firing a .22 pistol... loud but tolerable for a few shots.. with supersonics. Thats great, all I really expected it to do is take a good edge off.
Will drilling vents in all of them kill it and make it a lot louder? I did the first half, and not the end cap yet, once drilled I cant really go back. Or is sound going to so small not noticeable?

IMG_6200.JPG



conevented.jpg
 
Forgive me for not addressing the question but what's the rationale for the pepperpot brake/dta? To my mind it looks like it would first delay and then restrict gas expansion in the blast chamber and also eat up internal volume but I cant say I have any expertise past looking at can cutaways on the internet
 
I'm going with the homemade brake. Seen it happen recently on a couple different reflex builds.

Are those PPA Super Dupers? Who makes the end caps? Tube diameter? You can PM me if you'd rather
 
I'm going with the homemade brake. Seen it happen recently on a couple different reflex builds.

Are those PPA Super Dupers? Who makes the end caps? Tube diameter? You can PM me if you'd rather

There were a few places i got stuff from. I believe I did get them from PPA. The tube is from SD tactical arms It is their "D" size barrel shroud. 1.5" OD, 9.8" long titanium. End cap is titanium from Preppers Discount. I dont see this style on there anymore though.. I also got the barrel end adapter from there also, it is stainless and then welded a stainless ebay brake on it.

Forgive me for not addressing the question but what's the rationale for the pepperpot brake/dta? To my mind it looks like it would first delay and then restrict gas expansion in the blast chamber and also eat up internal volume but I cant say I have any expertise past looking at can cutaways on the internet

copy and pasted from the silencer shop.
"Muzzle brakes make very effective suppressor mounts as the brake can improve the longevity and performance of a silencer. The ports of a muzzle brake act as an additional baffle, dispersing the initial muzzle blast and redirecting the combustion gasses."

With the radial brake (pepperpot) my idea was it is the blast chamber and it would help save the first cone from being eaten away. I guess reading that quote, "redirecting the gasses" ... If i have no vents in the cones its not redirecting anywhere, they need to be drilled so it acts as a flow through style, then the redirected gasses would have a place to go.
 
SDTA tube in 1.36 ID could be hub threaded or "D" threaded. In which case there are adapters for such a beast if you wanted.

Those "super dupers" were known to be gassy. Spacing was a major issue. There was some tests that show a db reduction with a port in the vertical face below the clip. Only really works if the spacing is correct, and it lines up with the clip path of the following cone.

Drilling ports on the base of them all will make it all equalize in the can faster, and get trapped in the distal chamber. I'm not saying it won't work to reduce backpressure, because it will help. I don't think it's going to help your db reduction though.

When you run out of options and things to remove; send it to Nick, and have him sort it out. I know for sure he's recored a few F1 cans that had SD's in them.
 
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