5.56 shellacked primer broken decapper pin

greg1147

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Sep 12, 2017
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    Broke two pins depriming a shellacked primer , I never had this happen before, does anyone shellac their reloads or is this the factory ammo
    And to top that off I fucked up the tip that hold the pin.
    So everything is on hold until RCBS ships
    Fuck
     
    I have a whole scrap bag, maybe 150, of 5.56 cases that eat decappers. Primer looks normal until you go to pop it out lol.

    Never had lacquered or crimped put up a fight like those damned ones.

    Headstamp is fas or something I think... cannot remember for sure, but they were nasty.

    Maybe you found some from the same batch haha.

    Good chance the primer hole is offset or something maybe! Don't remember anything odd with my batch I found, but honestly didn't look super hard... just culled all of them from the box after the first couple lol, then never saw any more.
     
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    I have a whole scrap bag, maybe 150, of 5.56 cases that eat decappers. Primer looks normal until you go to pop it out lol.

    Never had lacquered or crimped put up a fight like those damned ones.

    Headstamp is fas or something I think... cannot remember for sure, but they were nasty.

    Maybe you found some from the same batch haha.

    Good chance the primer hole is offset or something maybe! Don't remember anything odd with my batch I found, but honestly didn't look super hard... just culled all of them from the box after the first couple lol, then never saw any more.
    Thanks
    More pissed at me being a dumbass and trying a second time and screwing up a perfectly fine decapper
     
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    I remember getting some eastern European 5.56 I think it was Yugo. They had smaller flash holes than the standard decapping pin and the decapping pin would get stuck. A real pain.

    For the crimped in primer cases, I set my decapping pin out to .200", making sure the bottom of the sizing button is not hitting the bottom of the case web, this works on most brands of F/L dies. That gives the pin enough length to get through the primer to push it out. Some primers are staked in so hard, the primer stretches and comes out egg shaped.

    Get a good supply of spare decapping pins and consider getting a separate universal decapping die. Get one that's heavy duty. The Lee is a good choice and it's inexpensive. I bought a RCBS on years ago, but it will break pins often. I bought a Lee and it works much better than the RCBS.
     
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    I have a whole scrap bag, maybe 150, of 5.56 cases that eat decappers. Primer looks normal until you go to pop it out lol.

    Never had lacquered or crimped put up a fight like those damned ones.

    Headstamp is fas or something I think... cannot remember for sure, but they were nasty.

    Maybe you found some from the same batch haha.

    Good chance the primer hole is offset or something maybe! Don't remember anything odd with my batch I found, but honestly didn't look super hard... just culled all of them from the box after the first couple lol, then never saw any more.
    ^^^

    This. I have a whole bunch as well with some odd headstamp that just won't de-prime. I think small primer holes. And super hard crimp.

    Not sure the headstamp, but I think Eastern European or something. Maybe greek?

    Anyway, there are range pickup or bulk brass I've had over the years that eat decapping pins.

    Once you learn to spot the headtamps, just bin them. It'll be easier in the long run.

    Sirhr
     
    Like the others have said, buy a separate depriming die. The cheapest one, the Lee, is stronger than the RCBS, Lyman and the much better looking one from Sinclair. Often on sale at Midway for $9.99 or $10.99 and order 3 spare pins from Squirrel Daddy for $10.
     
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    Lee universal decapper and squirrel daddy hardened pins, haven't had a issue since.

    This...x1000

    Heres the link, they're on Amazon now. The main rod is also mildly knurled so it really grabs onto it and doesn't move as easy as the factory rod from Lee. Don't forget to tighten it pretty good.

    Squirrel Daddy Hardened Pins
     
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    Disregard the lower one the top is the culprit that broke two pins.
     

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    Is this advice because they’re hardened? The original advice is intended to let the rod slip under excessive force to prevent breakage.

    Correct on the original advice about slippage, although I'm not positive exactly what breakage they're avoiding, I'm assuming the rod tip itself.

    I'm not too concerned with the original advice for my needs. The hardened tips work great so far, so I just wrench em down and forget about it. They come in 3 packs so if I do happen to break one, then I'll probably just replace it and keep going. I haven't found a primer yet that has caused issue. They're tapered as well so I haven't had any issue with off-center flash holes either. I broke way too many dinky RCBS pins, and I've bent a Forster pin too. I just switched most of my toolheads to have a decapper in the first spot (RL550).
    For 9mm I run:
    Decapper
    Resizer with no decapper unit
    Powder
    Seat bullet and crimp - same die.
     
    Mighty Armory make really tuff equipment


     
    Definitely run a separate universal decap die on range brass with a backup pin or two.

    You never know what might be in the case.

    My favorite thing is a 22lr shell hiding in there and offset flash holes are fun.

    I only pull a certain ammount on the handle, if it resists I turn it 1/4 turn.

    I don't put dirty brass in my sizing dies they get decapped and tumbled first, all of them.
     
    Disregard the lower one the top is the culprit that broke two pins.

    Known to be small and off center, I'd sort and toss them in the scrap bucket.