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Gunsmithing $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
- Thread starter Hellbender
- Start date
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcskater602</div><div class="ubbcode-body">absolutley perfect... thank you thank you
cost will not be less than 50 bux... bc now i have to buy my own cerakote, blasting equipment, and spray gun
</div></div>
Aint that the truth. I just found a blaster pretty close that I'm going to pick up this week. Then to get a hvlp gun, and order some cerakote. I sure hope I don't screw up.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dcskater602</div><div class="ubbcode-body">absolutley perfect... thank you thank you
cost will not be less than 50 bux... bc now i have to buy my own cerakote, blasting equipment, and spray gun
Aint that the truth. I just found a blaster pretty close that I'm going to pick up this week. Then to get a hvlp gun, and order some cerakote. I sure hope I don't screw up.
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hellbender</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pickpick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What if you want to change colors down the road? Do you just sandblast and respray and bake? </div></div>
As far as I know, about everything except Cerakote will strip off with paint stripper and a Brillo pad.
Cerakote will require blasting, it's very tough stuff. </div></div>
Gun Kote, Durakote, Norells Moly Resin, etc. will all need to be blasted off.
Actually this is likely the case for all of the thermally cured finishes.
I think that anything 'rattle can' will come off with stripper, MEK, etc. and that brillo pad.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hellbender</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pickpick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What if you want to change colors down the road? Do you just sandblast and respray and bake? </div></div>
As far as I know, about everything except Cerakote will strip off with paint stripper and a Brillo pad.
Cerakote will require blasting, it's very tough stuff. </div></div>
Gun Kote, Durakote, Norells Moly Resin, etc. will all need to be blasted off.
Actually this is likely the case for all of the thermally cured finishes.
I think that anything 'rattle can' will come off with stripper, MEK, etc. and that brillo pad.
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
I've got my oven built, paint gun bought, blasting cabinet bought, and cerakote ordered. Does a fella need to be setting on go with the paint when the parts come out if the blaster? I expect that rust would set in pretty quick after blasting, true.?
I've got my oven built, paint gun bought, blasting cabinet bought, and cerakote ordered. Does a fella need to be setting on go with the paint when the parts come out if the blaster? I expect that rust would set in pretty quick after blasting, true.?
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
Thanks for posting this.
I've seen a few plans for these online. Did you consider putting in a small fan to circulate the air?
I'm wondering if the fan would only be necessary if you didn't have the opening in-between the hotplate and the pipe.
Thanks again.
Thanks for posting this.
I've seen a few plans for these online. Did you consider putting in a small fan to circulate the air?
I'm wondering if the fan would only be necessary if you didn't have the opening in-between the hotplate and the pipe.
Thanks again.
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pickpick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've got my oven built, paint gun bought, blasting cabinet bought, and cerakote ordered. Does a fella need to be setting on go with the paint when the parts come out if the blaster? I expect that rust would set in pretty quick after blasting, true.? </div></div>
I blast then go right to paint, I wouldn't let it sit for over a couple of hours, unless the humidity was really low, and it seldom is where I live.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pickpick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've got my oven built, paint gun bought, blasting cabinet bought, and cerakote ordered. Does a fella need to be setting on go with the paint when the parts come out if the blaster? I expect that rust would set in pretty quick after blasting, true.? </div></div>
I blast then go right to paint, I wouldn't let it sit for over a couple of hours, unless the humidity was really low, and it seldom is where I live.
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Penta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for posting this.
I've seen a few plans for these online. Did you consider putting in a small fan to circulate the air?
I'm wondering if the fan would only be necessary if you didn't have the opening in-between the hotplate and the pipe.
Thanks again. </div></div>
The air gap is what makes the temps even, if it's not there, the lower end gets too hot. I played with gap sizes (raised and lowered the legs) until my test part was within 20 deg. top to bottom.
Your hot plate would burn up fast, too. And would probably not be very safe!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Penta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thanks for posting this.
I've seen a few plans for these online. Did you consider putting in a small fan to circulate the air?
I'm wondering if the fan would only be necessary if you didn't have the opening in-between the hotplate and the pipe.
Thanks again. </div></div>
The air gap is what makes the temps even, if it's not there, the lower end gets too hot. I played with gap sizes (raised and lowered the legs) until my test part was within 20 deg. top to bottom.
Your hot plate would burn up fast, too. And would probably not be very safe!
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hellbender</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pickpick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've got my oven built, paint gun bought, blasting cabinet bought, and cerakote ordered. Does a fella need to be setting on go with the paint when the parts come out if the blaster? I expect that rust would set in pretty quick after blasting, true.? </div></div>
I blast then go right to paint, I wouldn't let it sit for over a couple of hours, unless the humidity was really low, and it seldom is where I live. </div></div>
Thanks. I was thinking about an acetone tank for pre-spraying. What do you do for a paint booth?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hellbender</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: pickpick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've got my oven built, paint gun bought, blasting cabinet bought, and cerakote ordered. Does a fella need to be setting on go with the paint when the parts come out if the blaster? I expect that rust would set in pretty quick after blasting, true.? </div></div>
I blast then go right to paint, I wouldn't let it sit for over a couple of hours, unless the humidity was really low, and it seldom is where I live. </div></div>
Thanks. I was thinking about an acetone tank for pre-spraying. What do you do for a paint booth?
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
I use the cheap brake cleaner from Wal-mart to clean.
Then I just put on a mask (make sure and get a good respirator, the stuff is bad news to breath) and shoot it in my shop, I use a $15 Harbor Freight air brush to paint everything, so I don't have a lot of over spray.
I'm not doing this for a living, just to do my own stuff.
But my results are as good as any I have seen.
I use the cheap brake cleaner from Wal-mart to clean.
Then I just put on a mask (make sure and get a good respirator, the stuff is bad news to breath) and shoot it in my shop, I use a $15 Harbor Freight air brush to paint everything, so I don't have a lot of over spray.
I'm not doing this for a living, just to do my own stuff.
But my results are as good as any I have seen.
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
Thanks Hellbender, that's all I'll be doing, is my own. I bought an hvlp gun but, I think an airbrush will do fine. Do I need to put ear plugs in the muzzle and chamber to keep the spray out? Thanks again for the tips and ideas.
Thanks Hellbender, that's all I'll be doing, is my own. I bought an hvlp gun but, I think an airbrush will do fine. Do I need to put ear plugs in the muzzle and chamber to keep the spray out? Thanks again for the tips and ideas.
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
I use a sharpened pencil cut off about 1" long in the muzzle, and a fired case in the chamber, I don't know if an ear plug is rated to 350 deg.!!
I use a sharpened pencil cut off about 1" long in the muzzle, and a fired case in the chamber, I don't know if an ear plug is rated to 350 deg.!!
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
Where are yall getting your AO? The Harbor Freight here only has 70 and 220, not 120 that NIC says I need.
Where are yall getting your AO? The Harbor Freight here only has 70 and 220, not 120 that NIC says I need.
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
OK, check the Farm Supply places, that's where I got a bucket. I think mine is 100 grit.
I'd say anything from 80-150 would be fine, just use a little less AP for the bigger grit.
I'm sure Grainger and McMaster-Carr would have it too.
(air pressure...
)
OK, check the Farm Supply places, that's where I got a bucket. I think mine is 100 grit.
I'd say anything from 80-150 would be fine, just use a little less AP for the bigger grit.
I'm sure Grainger and McMaster-Carr would have it too.
(air pressure...
)
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
I made one almost exactly like this only I use a heat gun instead of the hot plate Just put heat gun in thru hole in the bottom small exhaust hole at the top. It works really well.
I never thought about a hot plate I guess I assumed the circulation would help.
I made one almost exactly like this only I use a heat gun instead of the hot plate Just put heat gun in thru hole in the bottom small exhaust hole at the top. It works really well.
I never thought about a hot plate I guess I assumed the circulation would help.
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
What about one of those remote grill thermometers with the timer and temp alerts. It could be just the ticket if you needed to keep a close eye on your temps.
What about one of those remote grill thermometers with the timer and temp alerts. It could be just the ticket if you needed to keep a close eye on your temps.
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sam Hail</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hellbender this is awsome !
Now what about a 50.00 blasting cabinet ? </div></div>
Lol...hell yea! +1 to that!
Very awesome idea Hellbender indeed!!! Thank you!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sam Hail</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hellbender this is awsome !
Now what about a 50.00 blasting cabinet ? </div></div>
Lol...hell yea! +1 to that!
Very awesome idea Hellbender indeed!!! Thank you!
Re: $50 Hillbilly Gun Oven
It's actually pretty warm "D!
Usw260...
Look up many of my posts. I've cooked my Sako TRG, my Tikka, my 40X .22 repeater, several other rifles, and any other piece of steel that might rust around the farm!
It's actually pretty warm "D!
Usw260...
Look up many of my posts. I've cooked my Sako TRG, my Tikka, my 40X .22 repeater, several other rifles, and any other piece of steel that might rust around the farm!
Use a 55 gal barrel and toilet flanges for arm holes. Cut a window an go at it.
I welded mine on legs and used an old kids party helium tank welded to the bottom for a deep hopper.
I used a walmart hot plate ( with thermostat removed), an old locker and a process controller. I added insulation and some stainless steel sheet metal to insulate the sides.
Same theory that cheap sometimes works as well as expensive stuff....for heating things anyway.
(Doubles as a key locker when not turned on)
Same theory that cheap sometimes works as well as expensive stuff....for heating things anyway.
(Doubles as a key locker when not turned on)
