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6.5-06 powders and performance

I am using RL-23 in mine and am working on H4831sc also.

I was using only 4831 for some time, both IMR and H at what seems to be too low of a charge behind 140 gr. bullets. I had trouble with the barrel carbon fouling quickly but the accuracy was there for a short time before the carbon became a problem.

There is a thread about 18 pages back around 17 Dec. of this year about, 6.5/06 Barrel sooting problem, where the Troops here helped me figure it out. I would suggest you look that up and read the whole thing. Good info there.

I don't know how to link you to that as this Old Dog has not learned new tricks with these fucking communist computers, I just hobble along with them, but feel free to PM me and I will help you all I can if someone else doesn't come on here and answer all of your questions. Regards, FM
 
Ok thanks bud!
I am using RL-23 in mine and am working on H4831sc also.

I was using only 4831 for some time, both IMR and H at what seems to be too low of a charge behind 140 gr. bullets. I had trouble with the barrel carbon fouling quickly but the accuracy was there for a short time before the carbon became a problem.

There is a thread about 18 pages back around 17 Dec. of this year about, 6.5/06 Barrel sooting problem, where the Troops here helped me figure it out. I would suggest you look that up and read the whole thing. Good info there.

I don't know how to link you to that as this Old Dog has not learned new tricks with these fucking communist computers, I just hobble along with them, but feel free to PM me and I will help you all I can if someone else doesn't come on here and answer all of your questions. Regards, FM
 
I use RL-22 in my 6.5 Rem Mags exclusively. Since this round has almost the same case capacity as your 6.5-06, maybe this will apply. I use 59.0gr of RL-22 with both 120gr Bal Tips and 125gr Partitions For excellent velocity and accuracy from Rem models 600 and 700. Hope this helps.
 
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Thanks All ! Appreciate the info and feedback. I guess for my particular rifle and situation it will ultimately come down to testing and experimenting with diff loads bullets loads and powders. Which is why we do all this to begin with! Gonna try retumbo, RL-19, H4831SC, and H-1000 and see what’s works best. Thanks again
 
One bud went ai with n170 and easy pushed 3150 with a 140. Pushed a 120 nosler 3300fps (dont remember the load, bud no longer around to ask). Coyotes exploded.
I just hate fire forming brass to ai.


Yeah that’s the one drawback is the fireformimg and eating away at the throat/Barrel life in the process
 
You can use 15 grains of red dot and a case full of tapioca pudding mix to blow out your cases.
 

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Mine is a Remington 700 long action with a Davidson follower to shoot single shot.
It has a Rifle Basic trigger and a 30 inch Hart barrel in a Tooley MBR stock(don't know why they call it a Tooley)?
I am using Lapua 30-06 brass and RE22 powder with a 142 Sierra because that all us old guys had back then.
RCBS dies as well.
 
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Don't kick out RL-23 as it has done really well for me. I have not shot over a machine to see speeds but it hits for me with less cleaning.
I shoot on the low side as I am hoping the barrel to last for a while.
53 gr. Rl-23, Norma 25/06 brass, CCI-S-LR primer, 140 Horn. BTHP Match.
I have no idea how fast or slow that is but works for me. FM
 
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I’m having high hopes for Retumbo with 150 smks. Also have had good look with IMR 7828ssc in win mag so that’s another powder I’m hoping will shine with the 6.5-06 . My buddy built a 6.5 saum and were having velocity wars rt now seeing who can get the most accurate and fastest rounds.
 
He’s only getting 3000 FPS with H-1000
24” Barrel 700 action. And he has pressure signs already. We had thought when he built it that he would be getting 3200 with the 140s
 
Just re-barreled a Savage 100 with a Shilen 1:7 twist 6.5-06 AI. Just beginning to work up loads using Reloader 26 and Sierra 142 gr (moly coated). At 59.0 gr I was getting 3160ish. No pressure signs at 59, so I'm going to keep going and see if I can get a consistent node just a little higher. I'm in the south, so I fire formed with 15gr unique and instant grits (only thing the instant is good for). I learned the hard way to anneal before forming, and if you use 30-06 brass the length will come up a little short. Next batch will be 270 brass, trimmed AFTER forming because it loses some length. Oh yeah, I'm using CCI magnum primers and Winchester brass.
 
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Just re-barreled a Savage 100 with a Shilen 1:7 twist 6.5-06 AI. Just beginning to work up loads using Reloader 26 and Sierra 142 gr (moly coated). At 59.0 gr I was getting 3160ish. No pressure signs at 59, so I'm going to keep going and see if I can get a consistent node just a little higher. I'm in the south, so I fire formed with 15gr unique and instant grits (only thing the instant is good for). I learned the hard way to anneal before forming, and if you use 30-06 brass the length will come up a little short. Next batch will be 270 brass, trimmed AFTER forming because it loses some length. Oh yeah, I'm using CCI magnum primers and Winchester brass.


Couple questions .....have you or anyone’ on here ever used Retumbo with the 150 smks for the 6.5-06?

Second.... can you describe to me how to do the cream of wheat or instant grits thing to fireform brass? I’ve heard of a lot of you guys talking about that but I would like to know the procedure as I am thinking about rechambering my 6.5–06 to AI
 
You use a soft primer.
You put 15 grains of fast powder in the case 700x Unique Red Dot.
You then fill the entire case with Cream of Wheat Tapioca Pudding or instant grits.
Now you tap on the outside of the brass with the spoon you used to fill the cases. You do this until the cereal settles to the neck shoulder junction.
Now you can use paper towels or toilette paper to put inside the neck to keep the food from spilling into the chamber.
Fire the round.
Before you reload the newly formed brass take a paperclip and run it inside the case around the new shoulder.
Upon firing the cases the cereal gets forced into the shoulder and sometimes it will stick there.
If you go to fill the cases with powder and one or two of them overflow it's a good bet you have cereal stuck against the new shoulder.
If you forget the paper towel or toilette paper and spill the breakfast cereal you have to quit shooting and clean the gun. Any cereal on the outside of the case will dent it.
 

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You use a soft primer.
You put 15 grains of fast powder in the case 700x Unique Red Dot.
You then fill the entire case with Cream of Wheat Tapioca Pudding or instant grits.
Now you tap on the outside of the brass with the spoon you used to fill the cases. You do this until the cereal settles to the neck shoulder junction.
Now you can use paper towels or toilette paper to put inside the neck to keep the food from spilling into the chamber.
Fire the round.
Before you reload the newly formed brass take a paperclip and run it inside the case around the new shoulder.
Upon firing the cases the cereal gets forced into the shoulder and sometimes it will stick there.
If you go to fill the cases with powder and one or two of them overflow it's a good bet you have cereal stuck against the new shoulder.
If you forget the paper towel or toilette paper and spill the breakfast cereal you have to quit shooting and clean the gun. Any cereal on the outside of the case will dent it.


Lynn Jr. that is a perfect description. I know what I need to do now. Thank you!
Pretty soon I’m gonna rechamber my Barrel to AI.
 
Couple questions .....have you or anyone’ on here ever used Retumbo with the 150 smks for the 6.5-06?

Second.... can you describe to me how to do the cream of wheat or instant grits thing to fireform brass? I’ve heard of a lot of you guys talking about that but I would like to know the procedure as I am thinking about rechambering my 6.5–06 to AI
No experience with Retumbo, just starting to work up loads. I have some 150s but I haven't gotten around to them yet. I thought I might have screwed up getting a 1:7 twist, but with heavier bullets being the trend, I'm glad I went that route. The cream of wheat or instant grits thing is easy. Meter in 15 grains of Unique, fill to the neck with COW or grits, and top it off with some cotton ball or paper towel just to keep everything in place. Just be sure and anneal the cases first or there is the tendency to get cracks in the shoulder. Whenever I get time I'm going to try RL25. I think it might fill the case a little more fully. So far I've only got one node at 2870ish that had really good ES and SD. I'm working out of town, so I don't have my notes in front of me or I'd give the charge weight. One detail I left out of my description is that I'm running a 26" barrel. Again, running moly bullets, so adjust powder charge accordingly.
 
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No experience with Retumbo, just starting to work up loads. I have some 150s but I haven't gotten around to them yet. I thought I might have screwed up getting a 1:7 twist, but with heavier bullets being the trend, I'm glad I went that route. The cream of wheat or instant grits thing is easy. Meter in 15 grains of Unique, fill to the neck with COW or grits, and top it off with some cotton ball or paper towel just to keep everything in place. Just be sure and anneal the cases first or there is the tendency to get cracks in the shoulder. Whenever I get time I'm going to try RL25. I think it might fill the case a little more fully. So far I've only got one node at 2870ish that had really good ES and SD. I'm working out of town, so I don't have my notes in front of me or I'd give the charge weight. One detail I left out of my description is that I'm running a 26" barrel. Again, running moly bullets, so adjust powder charge accordingly.



Thanks Mike278 appreciate info
 
Ok guys did some testing yesterday.
In case anyone is interested... 6.5-06 standard, Rem 700 28” benchmark Barrel.
RETUMBO/150 SMKS. First they did not stabilize in my 1:8 twist barrel. Targets had keyholes. Had no data on this powder/bullet combo so used Berger book 140 data and stepped down 2.0 grains. So from start load to never exceed it ranged from 2900fps- 3015fps being the highest I got with max 140 bullet load data. No pressure signs were observed in case head. Primers seemed fine. Just wanted to let anyone know who might be wanting to try this powder IT DOES HAVE SOME SPEED TO IT. I compared this powder to IMR7828sc, H4841SC, RL19 and H-1000 with the 150 smks as well.
The RETUMBO SMOKED them velocity wise.
 
Ok, boys
The 6.5-06 is a awesome round.. so 1 grain more then 6.5x284.. lol all depends on seating depth..
so I both. And 6.5x284 lovers your missing out.. hunters more mag rounds.
Bel.. you6.5 ack guy waste your time..

With 140 you can get 3200 plus
But with rl 23 147 3150..

Yes retumbo with 140 is good in barrels. Vit-165 is my load with 140, shoot 4 inch at 1000. Ya if we had Benchrest here you east boys would have comp..
Magnum will get you up there you go..
 
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Ok, boys
The 6.5-06 is a awesome round.. so 1 grain more then 6.5x284.. lol all depends on seating depth..
so I both. And 6.5x284 lovers your missing out.. hunters more mag rounds.
Bel.. you6.5 ack guy waste your time..

With 140 you can get 3200 plus
But with rl 23 147 3150..

Yes retumbo with 140 is good in barrels. Vit-165 is my load with 140, shoot 4 inch at 1000. Ya if we had Benchrest here you east boys would have comp..
Magnum will get you up there you go..

So RL 23 has some good speed to it?
Have you ever tried RL-26 with the -06?
Or is 23 the way to go? Is it faster than retumbo? Is 23 and 26 temp stable?
 
It will work. Retumbo will get 3200 but is compressed but not bad. Rel 25 will work but not temp stable.

What is wrong with rl 23
It is 3100 to 3150 with 147 what’s wrong with that. It takes 5 grains or more in saum or others to get there..
 
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I have pretty much settled in with RL 23 and am happy with it. It shoots well for me.
I am not after the velocity so much as I am after lack of carbon build up in the bore and load on the low side hoping to stretch my barrel life out a bit more and not be cleaning after a few shots, such as I did with 4831 but do now realize I was loading 4831 too low so it could not reach it's max potential.
I do not know who makes RL23 other than it comes from Europe but I am happy with it.
Does anybody know who makes this stuff? as in country of origin and maker? With Spring and Summer coming I will soon find out about temp. stability but I think it is suposed to be fairly Temp stable. Regards, FM
 
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I have pretty much settled in with RL 23 and am happy with it. It shoots well for me.
I am not after the velocity so much as I am after lack of carbon build up in the bore and load on the low side hoping to stretch my barrel life out a bit more and not be cleaning after a few shots, such as I did with 4831 but do now realize I was loading 4831 too low so it could not reach it's max potential.
I do not know who makes RL23 other than it comes from Europe but I am happy with it.
Does anybody know who makes this stuff? as in country of origin and maker? With Spring and Summer coming I will soon find out about temp. stability but I think it is suposed to be fairly Temp stable. Regards, FM


I got really good speed out of retumbo.
Gonna play with that for a while but I will prob try RL-23 as well as play around 4831 too. This cartridge seems to have many powders that work well for it.
 
What’s your loads?

I have a buddy shooting retumbo, one uses h4350 only like 2875 2900
My gun shots vit n165 around 53, my other with 147 and rl 23 is around 54-55 on top end at 3150.
 
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Finally got a little range time with my 6.5-06 AI. Using 30-06 Winchester fire formed, Federal magnum primers, 142 SMKs (moly), and Reloader 26. ES and SD weren't great on most charges, but had a good node at 56.5 gr (2980 fps). Another good node at 59.2 gr (3130fps). My rifle topped out at 60.0 gr (3236 fps). Only fired one round at that load because it flattened the primer and left an ejector mark. I think the next trip will be with a batch of Reloader 25. I think it might fill the case a little more and help with ES and SD.
 
Does anybody know who makes this stuff? as in country of origin and maker? With Spring and Summer coming I will soon find out about temp. stability but I think it is suposed to be fairly Temp stable. Regards, FM
RL 23, along with AR comp and RL 16 is made for Alliant in Sweden by Bofors. These 3 powders have the TZ tech, temp stable, yada, yada.
Some of their other powders are made by Nitrochemie, RL 17, 33, etc... They are spray coated with nitroglycerin, making them what people call high energy dual based powders, even though by definition, not a true dual base powder. I think only Accurate Powder makes a couple true ones.
Bofors and NC make powders for other companies, don't quote me but I think Norma gets some powder from Bofors, and VV N500 series comes from NC.
 
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Try some RL23. I think you will be happy. FM
RL 23 is a little faster burning than what you have been trying, not that it will not work.
I shot both 25 and 26 in a 6.5-06, if I recall it was a wash on performance and accuracy, with both powders getting wonky when temps and ammo temps got into the 90's.
 
Mine is a Remington 700 long action with a Davidson follower to shoot single shot.
It has a Rifle Basic trigger and a 30 inch Hart barrel in a Tooley MBR stock(don't know why they call it a Tooley)?
I am using Lapua 30-06 brass and RE22 powder with a 142 Sierra because that all us old guys had back then.
RCBS dies as well.

Because Dave Tooley designed it.
 
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I am waiting on my rifle to get back from the Dr. Office with a new barrel. Waiting on the reamer.

I plan to start with the load I was shooting, 52 gr. of RL23 140 BTHP Match from Hornady.
and go from there.

It is a fun caliber to shoot and I have many of the powders you are talking about but will start out with RL23.
Regards, FM