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6.5 CM Bullet Berger or Hornady

LR-Shooter

Full Member
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 27, 2008
248
32
Idaho
My 6.5 shoots the factory ELD-M 140's and 147's very well but those bullets are unobtanium right now. Was able to get Berger Hybird target 140's and they shoot fantastic but the BC doesn't compare to the ELD-M 140's, how much of a difference does this actually make. The berger's are also $10 per 100 more expensive. Should I just get more of the bergers and roll with those or be patient and wait to get the ELD-M bullets. Paying .33 cents a round is better then .45 cents but getting to shoot is better then nothing. It really is amazing how the 6.5 is not picky with bullets or powder charges.

Thanks
 
They performed very well, just want to put my money in the best spot. Not sure how the ELD has nearly a .65 BC and the berger is .607. Most likely the hide will say it dont matter that much but you know helps to hear others input.
 
That's good to know, I also have been reading up on the red tip failing or breaking on them. I just wish the berger's were the same price. I am about to buy 500rd box of the bergers. The berger 130's are better on paper then the ELD's may have to try those as well.
 
I wouldn't worry to much about the BC, one case is look at the 139 Scenar that is .578 but they just flat out shoot and I'm sure many wouldn't change them if it was lower given how well they shoot.
I am currently shooting the 147eldm in 6.5CM and the 130 Hybrid in 6.5x47 but will most likely switch to the Hybrid in both when the Hornadys are gone even though I am giving up a considerable am out of BC doing so.
 
That's good to know, I also have been reading up on the red tip failing or breaking on them. I just wish the berger's were the same price. I am about to buy 500rd box of the bergers. The berger 130's are better on paper then the ELD's may have to try those as well.
The Berger’s have always been more consistent than the Hornandy and if you have a problem with Berger they’ll work with you.
I switched to 130’s in my 260 now that it’s not my do it all rifle anymore.
 
Thanks, you all helped me make up my mind. Once I get home from work I will post up my target from doing the 10 round Satterlee method, basically put all 10 rounds with .2 charge difference into the same hole in under and inch (excluding the first shot) with the bergers.
 
The Berger’s have always been more consistent than the Hornandy and if you have a problem with Berger they’ll work with you.
I switched to 130’s in my 260 now that it’s not my do it all rifle anymore.

Don't know what speed your running the 130 Hybrids but they flat out hammer at 2880fps that I'm running them and don't give up much to heavier bullets with higher BC.
 
Just sold off 7000 Hornady 147's. Actually sold them for a little more than I paid 🙂

I had to drop Hornadys G7 BC on the 147's down to 331, to get confirmed dope out to 1000. Published .351 is way high.

The Berger 144 Hybrid G7 is .335 and that is dead on out to 1200.

And Berger's DON'T disappear on the way down range.
 
You all have me intrigued on the 130's so ordered 1 box of that to try. If they shoot as good as the 140's I will switch. Put the data in Strelok and there is a good bit less in elevation needed to get out to my longest range (550 yards) of my club over the 147's.
 
Whats a good starting point for a 10 round ladder test on the 130? I am using GMM large rifle primer, H4350, and once fired Hornady brass. I want to find max charge within those 10 rounds if possible
 
Whats a good starting point for a 10 round ladder test on the 130? I am using GMM large rifle primer, H4350, and once fired Hornady brass. I want to find max charge within those 10 rounds if possible
I can't tell you what to load, but I use 43.0 H4350 with the 130 VLD in Lapua brass. Bullet is about .030 off lands. Chrono says 2900 out of 24".
 
Berger 130 or 140 hybrids. I use 140 hybrids in my 6.5 creedmoor.

I used to stray from Lapua brass and Berger bullets occasional, to chase higher BC or whatever. I've always come back to Lapua brass and Berger bullets, their quality and consistency make it that much easier in the reloading room, and the results down range are obvious. I've learned my lessons enough times to stay faithful to these two brands, makes my life much easier.

As far as the Satterlee method goes, the 10 shot method is a waste of time. I can say it as I did it for a couple of years when I first got into reloading. The sample size is statistically insignificant, any so-called "nodes" you find in that test likely aren't real nodes. I found this out by loading up two identical ladders, shooting them back to back, never finding a consistent "node" that carried over/was consistent between the two ladders. Since I changed my reloading method, I can see that none of the best performing reload recipes for any of the cartridges I shoot for would've been found using the so-called Satterlee method.

A ladder is good for finding relative velocities per charge weight, and pressure signs, but that's about it.
 
Instead of posting my satterlee test results here I made a new thread if you are interested