Due to a few recent threads I have seen I think I am set on re-barreling my .308 to a short barrel 6.5x47L. Do these use the same bolt head or would I need another one? And now my original question, is there any brass that can be formed to the 6.5x47? If this was an option I would prefer this over buying the expensive Lapua brass. Sorry for the ignorant questions.
6.5x47L brass question?
- Thread starter BenY 2013
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Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
6.5 lapua is the same head diameter as 308. So you use the same bolt.
There isn't an easily convertible case that can be reformed imo. But there are several newer calibers with cases I'm not familiar with.
That said, I shoot a 6x47 L and have about 150 cases necked up fro 22-250 and fireformed. I did that so I would have some inexpensive cases to use varminting. I don't know if there would be a high loss rate going up to 6.5
6.5 lapua is the same head diameter as 308. So you use the same bolt.
There isn't an easily convertible case that can be reformed imo. But there are several newer calibers with cases I'm not familiar with.
That said, I shoot a 6x47 L and have about 150 cases necked up fro 22-250 and fireformed. I did that so I would have some inexpensive cases to use varminting. I don't know if there would be a high loss rate going up to 6.5
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
I was not successful trying to form 6x47 L brass from 243. There is just too much brass to move.
I was not successful trying to form 6x47 L brass from 243. There is just too much brass to move.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
Hmm that's what I was afraid of...I am wanting to build a 20" 6.5 gun...without emptying my entire wallet in the process. Brass seems really expensive. Maybe I'd be better off with the .260 Rem or 6.5CM.
However I would still like to hear if anyone has successfully formed brass from a different caliber. Thanks guys!
Hmm that's what I was afraid of...I am wanting to build a 20" 6.5 gun...without emptying my entire wallet in the process. Brass seems really expensive. Maybe I'd be better off with the .260 Rem or 6.5CM.
However I would still like to hear if anyone has successfully formed brass from a different caliber. Thanks guys!
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
You could try 250 savage brass. I have a 6.5x47 and was initially turned off by the cost of the lapua brass but now that I have some I feel it is worth the extra cost. Very uniform and strong. The additional firings you can get out of the lapua brass might even out the difference in price.
You could try 250 savage brass. I have a 6.5x47 and was initially turned off by the cost of the lapua brass but now that I have some I feel it is worth the extra cost. Very uniform and strong. The additional firings you can get out of the lapua brass might even out the difference in price.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
I did a conversion of a Surgeon 308 to a Robert Gradous 6.4L a year ago
and yes it is the same .493 bolt face. You will probably need to to change out to smaller firing pin and bush the bolt face to be on the safe side.
You are better off sticking with Lapua brass for this caliber. Lapua brass uses a small rifle primer which is part of the magic (accuracy and case life) for this caliber.
If you don't want to go this route look at 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington.
I did a conversion of a Surgeon 308 to a Robert Gradous 6.4L a year ago
and yes it is the same .493 bolt face. You will probably need to to change out to smaller firing pin and bush the bolt face to be on the safe side.
You are better off sticking with Lapua brass for this caliber. Lapua brass uses a small rifle primer which is part of the magic (accuracy and case life) for this caliber.
If you don't want to go this route look at 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
I think I am kind of leaning towards the .260 Rem, mainly because I can form my .308 and .243 brass so it'll be less start up expense.
I think I am kind of leaning towards the .260 Rem, mainly because I can form my .308 and .243 brass so it'll be less start up expense.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
In the grand scheme of things brass is a tiny expense. Add up what powder and bullets will cost you over the life of a 6.5 barrel and you will see that $200 -$300 for very uniform and strong brass isn't a very relevant cost.
In the grand scheme of things brass is a tiny expense. Add up what powder and bullets will cost you over the life of a 6.5 barrel and you will see that $200 -$300 for very uniform and strong brass isn't a very relevant cost.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
I agree with what others here have already said. It's worth the extra money to get the extra firings on the Lapua. Plus you are ready to shoot right off the bat. Furthermore, unless you have all the tools for neck turning I don't think you will be able to neck down .308 brass into .260.
If you are dead set on forming your own brass then it can easily be done with 22/250 brass. Or it was with 6.5 Creedmoor which is essentially a slightly longer 6.5 Lapua.
I agree with what others here have already said. It's worth the extra money to get the extra firings on the Lapua. Plus you are ready to shoot right off the bat. Furthermore, unless you have all the tools for neck turning I don't think you will be able to neck down .308 brass into .260.
If you are dead set on forming your own brass then it can easily be done with 22/250 brass. Or it was with 6.5 Creedmoor which is essentially a slightly longer 6.5 Lapua.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BenY 2013</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hmm that's what I was afraid of...I am wanting to build a 20" 6.5 gun...without emptying my entire wallet in the process. Brass seems really expensive. Maybe I'd be better off with the .260 Rem or 6.5CM.</div></div>
Build the 6.5x47 if it's really what you want. Buy 100 pieces of Lapua brass and wear the barrel out.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BenY 2013</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hmm that's what I was afraid of...I am wanting to build a 20" 6.5 gun...without emptying my entire wallet in the process. Brass seems really expensive. Maybe I'd be better off with the .260 Rem or 6.5CM.</div></div>
Build the 6.5x47 if it's really what you want. Buy 100 pieces of Lapua brass and wear the barrel out.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
I agreen, if your looking for a cheaper rout I would go 6.5Creedmoor or 260Rem.
I agreen, if your looking for a cheaper rout I would go 6.5Creedmoor or 260Rem.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
In the long run the cost is no different. I have Lapua brass with over 25 reloadings that is still going strong. Better brass, stronger head (small rifle primer) and better quality than anything out there. As stated, 100 pcs. will see you for the life of the barrel. I am running a standard firing pin. IMHO. Have fun.
Regards, Paul
In the long run the cost is no different. I have Lapua brass with over 25 reloadings that is still going strong. Better brass, stronger head (small rifle primer) and better quality than anything out there. As stated, 100 pcs. will see you for the life of the barrel. I am running a standard firing pin. IMHO. Have fun.
Regards, Paul
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
So the firing pin for the .308 would work? Thats another thing I was curious about. I've seen the large firing pin used in a build before but have read some people say you need a small firing pin. Does it even matter?
So the firing pin for the .308 would work? Thats another thing I was curious about. I've seen the large firing pin used in a build before but have read some people say you need a small firing pin. Does it even matter?
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
You can run lower pressures and won't have a problem. When I first got mine I ran it without the bolt bushed but would randomly pierce a primer so I went ahead and had it bushed. I think you'd be happier if you had the bolt bushed.
You can run lower pressures and won't have a problem. When I first got mine I ran it without the bolt bushed but would randomly pierce a primer so I went ahead and had it bushed. I think you'd be happier if you had the bolt bushed.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BLK7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">6.5 lapua is the same head diameter as 308. So you use the same bolt.
There isn't an easily convertible case that can be reformed imo. But there are several newer calibers with cases I'm not familiar with.
That said, I shoot a 6x47 L and have about 150 cases necked up fro 22-250 and fireformed. I did that so I would have some inexpensive cases to use varminting. I don't know if there would be a high loss rate going up to 6.5 </div></div>
250 savage has different head size does in not?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BLK7</div><div class="ubbcode-body">6.5 lapua is the same head diameter as 308. So you use the same bolt.
There isn't an easily convertible case that can be reformed imo. But there are several newer calibers with cases I'm not familiar with.
That said, I shoot a 6x47 L and have about 150 cases necked up fro 22-250 and fireformed. I did that so I would have some inexpensive cases to use varminting. I don't know if there would be a high loss rate going up to 6.5 </div></div>
250 savage has different head size does in not?
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
if brass cost is an issue, the 260 remington is right up your alley as the perfect solution, you can get factory brass in .260 or neck up from 243, I have done a couple hundred win 243 cases and didn't loose any in the process, accuracy is excellent also, sub 1/2 MOA is sub 1/2 MOA no matter the caliber and those result came with very little load work.
hope this helps.
if brass cost is an issue, the 260 remington is right up your alley as the perfect solution, you can get factory brass in .260 or neck up from 243, I have done a couple hundred win 243 cases and didn't loose any in the process, accuracy is excellent also, sub 1/2 MOA is sub 1/2 MOA no matter the caliber and those result came with very little load work.
hope this helps.
Re: 6.5x47L brass question?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bolt fluter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In the long run the cost is no different. I have Lapua brass with over 25 reloadings that is still going strong. Better brass, stronger head (small rifle primer) and better quality than anything out there. As stated, 100 pcs. will see you for the life of the barrel. I am running a standard firing pin. IMHO. Have fun.
Regards, Paul </div></div>
I've had very good luck with my 6.5x47L brass, but I'm nowhere near that many loads on the brass. Just curious are you annealing? Also I'm curious as to your cleaning process. Right now I'm doing the stainless thing and I'm hoping it doesn't work harden the brass.
Like others say, part of the magic is this brass and the small rifle primer. I use small rifle magnum primers, which gave me better accuracy, SD and don't crater as much with the large rifle primer style firing pin. Oh yeah and with that small rifle primer, the primer pocket has stayed super tight.
One thing I like about the 6.5x47L is that it uses less powder. In my head that translates into less heat being dumped into the bore. Hoping that helps with throat erosion. Also mine was accurate with pretty much every bullet and powder charge I tried in it. Made load dev easy.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bolt fluter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In the long run the cost is no different. I have Lapua brass with over 25 reloadings that is still going strong. Better brass, stronger head (small rifle primer) and better quality than anything out there. As stated, 100 pcs. will see you for the life of the barrel. I am running a standard firing pin. IMHO. Have fun.
Regards, Paul </div></div>
I've had very good luck with my 6.5x47L brass, but I'm nowhere near that many loads on the brass. Just curious are you annealing? Also I'm curious as to your cleaning process. Right now I'm doing the stainless thing and I'm hoping it doesn't work harden the brass.
Like others say, part of the magic is this brass and the small rifle primer. I use small rifle magnum primers, which gave me better accuracy, SD and don't crater as much with the large rifle primer style firing pin. Oh yeah and with that small rifle primer, the primer pocket has stayed super tight.
One thing I like about the 6.5x47L is that it uses less powder. In my head that translates into less heat being dumped into the bore. Hoping that helps with throat erosion. Also mine was accurate with pretty much every bullet and powder charge I tried in it. Made load dev easy.
