6mm Dasher Die Question

mrobles3808

Sergeant
Minuteman
Nov 21, 2013
489
121
Nebraska
I'm shopping for 6 Dasher dies and would like to use what I currently use for my other calibers. I see Redding has 6 dasher Type S FL dies, but I don't see Redding offering a Competition bullet seater for the dasher. Can I use a 6br comp seater in its place?

Thank you,

Mark
 
All of my calibers, I use a bushing neck die and then body die every 3 loading. all redding type s. well they don't make a body die for the dasher. someone told me the other day to just buy a FL bushing die and use it without the bushing for my body die, so that's what I did. I did, however, order the whidden hydro forming die for the dasher.
 
Anyone can have a problem with any company's product at some point. It just happens. I use Whidden 6 Dasher dies and recommend them highly.
as for alternatives for seating with a Redding Comp Seater, I don't think you will be able to do that with great success. You should be able to replace the stem of the standard seater with a Redding Micrometer Seating Stem if you just have to go that route or purchase a Wilson Seater Die and an arbor press to do seating.
 
All of my calibers, I use a bushing neck die and then body die every 3 loading. all redding type s. well they don't make a body die for the dasher. someone told me the other day to just buy a FL bushing die and use it without the bushing for my body die, so that's what I did. I did, however, order the whidden hydro forming die for the dasher.
Why don’t you FL size and neck size at the same time?
 
Because I'm only body sizing every 3rd or 4th reloading. I'm only sizing the neck most reloadings.. That's how. Anybody will agree that neck sizing is better for brass life.
 
What was the problem?

dasher brass is very forgiving, just tighten up the neck a little and load, shoot.
I was inducing horrible runout with my FL sizing die. I compared it to my hornady die that I had at the time and the hornady was actually turning out more concentric ammo. Whidden does have wonderful customer service and they sent me a new die, but my panties were in a wad after spending that amount of money on a set of dies. While following threads, I've read about similar situations that I had so I have stayed away since. Maybe I should consider them again with the 6 Dasher.
 
Anybody will agree that neck sizing is better for brass life.
Lots of people will disagree. High level BR shooters are all FL sizing. The primer pocket on a dasher will wear out long before the rest, so you're saving nothing.

FL sizing also allows for additional room in the chamber for running rounds in dirty/dusty guns at matches. FL is the way to go, whether you use Forster, Whidden, Redding is more a preference. Non-bushing dies with custom honed necks are probably the best, but they are not an off-the-shelf solution.
 
Because I'm only body sizing every 3rd or 4th reloading. I'm only sizing the neck most reloadings.. That's how. Anybody will agree that neck sizing is better for brass life.
Agreed that neck sizing works the brass less but not the best reloading practice. It has been proven time and again that correctly FL sizing brass every time during loading has no ill effect on brass and, in fact, may allow it to last longer. I have 6 Dasher brass that has been FL sized over twenty times at this point and have not lost one single piece. By FL sizing I feel assured that loaded rounds will cycle thru my rifle smoothly and provide no surprises.
 
Redding 36648 is a complete dasher set, several websites have it, even eBay

Redding 55648 is the competition seater, harder to find separate but still available.

I’ve had Whidden before for 3 sets and ALL gave me horrible runout. It looks like a monkey turned the threads on the die bodies. I will say they had fantastic customer service but after trying them 3x i will never use them again. Jumped to Redding and have never looked back. Several at the club matches had the same issue, tolerances are way to loose. Grab your seater head and see how much it wobbles, dual .001” and see if that’s acrually .001”, most recently a buddy had to dial .020” to get the bullet to seat .004”. I’ve never had that problem when jumping to Redding.

And on resizing the neck...but resizing the body on the 4th....how consistent do you think you Brass size is if it’s only the same on the 4th try ?? The whole point to reloading is consistency. If your body is growing every time up until the 3-4th time you body size how is it being consistent?
 
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Delfuego. decided to return my neck die and try FL sizing with the dasher. I've never had problems with my .300wm and 6.5cm with neck sizing but I'm open to try new things. So my redding type s FL bushing die with the .266 bushing will be the way I'm going. thanks for pushing me to try something new.
 
Delfuego. decided to return my neck die and try FL sizing with the dasher. I've never had problems with my .300wm and 6.5cm with neck sizing but I'm open to try new things. So my redding type s FL bushing die with the .266 bushing will be the way I'm going. thanks for pushing me to try something new.
You're welcome brother! But I think Erik and the other BR guys should get credit too. .266 or .267 should be good, bushings can be slightly off size (so I am told), I am using .267 in the Dasher and .266 on my honed Forster 6BR. The .266 CRT bushing in the Dasher was shaving jackets.
 
You're welcome brother! But I think Erik and the other BR guys should get credit too. .266 or .267 should be good, bushings can be slightly off size (so I am told), I am using .267 in the Dasher and .266 on my honed Forster 6BR. The .266 CRT bushing in the Dasher was shaving jackets.
I'll try it out and see. I'll be loading 115 DTACs. if it's too tight, I'll order the .267
 
yep that video changed my mindset when I saw it a few months back, it makes so much sense when you break it down and avoid the group mindset think. I still get single digit sd/ es, with perfect reliability at 2 thou set back FLS. Hell haven't messed with the Forster FLS honing service thus far, just expander mandrel the neck to set final tension.
 
Well shit.. guess I'll return it for the .267 if y'all are sure. Another guy in here told me he uses the .266 but never mentioned anything about him turning necks.
 
I use the .266, I don’t turn anything. Don’t remember what a loaded round measures but it’s real close to .269 & .268. If I’m not mistaken blue box lapua measures .013 or .0125” so it’ll put you at .002-.003” neck tension.
 
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OP....I use a Redding type-S FL sizer with a 0.267 bushing, and a Forster micro-seater. I run a Forster Co-Ax press and am looking at an Arbor press to use this year.

I just acquired a AMP annealer and am going to really study/pay-attention to seating pressure this year. I notice a lot of variation in my Co-Ax in regards to amount of force needed to seat the bullets. I need to review my sizing practice a swell and plan on changing my technique a bit there too.
Lapua 6BR brass / Varget / cci450's / 105hyb & 110 smk.
 
OP....I use a Redding type-S FL sizer with a 0.267 bushing, and a Forster micro-seater. I run a Forster Co-Ax press and am looking at an Arbor press to use this year.

I just acquired a AMP annealer and am going to really study/pay-attention to seating pressure this year. I notice a lot of variation in my Co-Ax in regards to amount of force needed to seat the bullets. I need to review my sizing practice a swell and plan on changing my technique a bit there too.
Lapua 6BR brass / Varget / cci450's / 105hyb & 110 smk.

This is probly what I’ll go with. I also use the coax. You don’t happen to wet tumble in SS media do you? I did for awhile and noticed very inconsistent seating pressure with SS cleaned brass. I went back to dry media and solved all issues.
 
This is probly what I’ll go with. I also use the coax. You don’t happen to wet tumble in SS media do you? I did for awhile and noticed very inconsistent seating pressure with SS cleaned brass. I went back to dry media and solved all issues.


No, I still, and only ever have, use corncob.
 
Something I’ve learned from a friend of mine is take a brass jag, wrap a lil steel wool, chuck it in a drill and clean the inside necks. Makes the inside super slick and you’ll get consistent smooth seating.
My ES & SD are always super low. It sometimes make me look at the magnetospeed to ensure it picked up the fired rounds. It’s an extra step but it helps me build more confidence in my ammo.
 
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