6xc rechambering to 6 creedmoor
- Thread starter garmil
- Start date
A new prefit can be had for 4-500, I’d hust do that instead of rechambering for 300 to gain 100 fps.
It's got 800. At first I was thinking it had a lot of life left but the more I read it seems to vary a lot.
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If that's the case re chambering would save me on ammo and would add some barrel life then correct?
All that work and money for a barrel that has 800rd down it? If you had a buddy doing it for free or very little ok. But if your sending to a Smith and paying full price not worth it.
I bought the gun as is. It does come with brass and dies I've just never reloaded rifle ammo before and not sure I want to / have the time to start.
Theoretically yes, I pulled a 6.5x47 barrel at 2600 rds, a guy grabbed it and chambered it in 260, he got 1600rds from it, and I'm not sure his 1600 weren't more accurate than my 2600. Tough to wear a barrel out, throats not so much.
Here's the deal, if you can find a smith that will do it reasonably priced, it may work for you. Threading and shoulder are in place mated to the action, may be as easy as running a reamer in. This is something you need to discuss with him.
That's not an option at the moment either.
If rechambering is failry affordable and possible I'll do that.
If not I'll just reload 6xc and shoot it for a while.
Thanks for the info. I don't have a Smith I use which is another problem.
The gun was built by LRI
There are two ways to go about rechambering to 6 Creedmoor.
First, leave the existing tenon (the threaded part that screw into the action) and run the 6 Creedmoor reamer in until the headspace is correct.
Second, cut off the tenon and redo the job completely with a new tenon and chamber.
Similar experience with a barrel of my own and here are my observations/experiences from doing option one above. The barrel was 6 Dasher with about 900 rounds (maybe a little more) and I went in behind that with my 6 Creedmoor reamer. Everything looked good thru the bore scope when done so I screwed it back on and verified with a go-no-go gauge. All good to go, or so I thought. I immediately started experiencing extremely high pressure on loads that were known to be well under max. Reexamination showed enough residual fire cracking in the new throat to cause big spike in pressure. So much for saving the time and $ to leave the tenon on.
So the tenon was cut off and barrel was completely redone with new tenon and chamber. Problem solved on pressure but accuracy was, well, not so good. What did it cost? Nothing but time on a buddies lathe but it would have cost way more than buying a new blank and having the job done right to begin with.
My lesson learned in hopes of saving you some aggravation, money and disappointment.
First, leave the existing tenon (the threaded part that screw into the action) and run the 6 Creedmoor reamer in until the headspace is correct.
Second, cut off the tenon and redo the job completely with a new tenon and chamber.
Similar experience with a barrel of my own and here are my observations/experiences from doing option one above. The barrel was 6 Dasher with about 900 rounds (maybe a little more) and I went in behind that with my 6 Creedmoor reamer. Everything looked good thru the bore scope when done so I screwed it back on and verified with a go-no-go gauge. All good to go, or so I thought. I immediately started experiencing extremely high pressure on loads that were known to be well under max. Reexamination showed enough residual fire cracking in the new throat to cause big spike in pressure. So much for saving the time and $ to leave the tenon on.
So the tenon was cut off and barrel was completely redone with new tenon and chamber. Problem solved on pressure but accuracy was, well, not so good. What did it cost? Nothing but time on a buddies lathe but it would have cost way more than buying a new blank and having the job done right to begin with.
My lesson learned in hopes of saving you some aggravation, money and disappointment.
If you already have 6XC dies & brass, but understand you probably have less than 1K of barrel life left. If you have to buy dies and brass, it's not even worth it. Put that money towards a prefit (if available for your action) or a blank/smith work.
Cracks or fissures that open up from repeated firing, flame or heat being the cause. Someone will come along with a pic I am sure. If not, google firecraking in a barrel.
I had 6d norma rechambered by running a 6x47l reamer thru her. Pretty low count of about - 300rds of 6d thru the tube and after borescoping we decided to keep the tenon and just run the reamer thru.
Cost was very low vs respinning everything but I guess it depends on differing factors. Shoots extremely well and I can get to 3150 before hitting pressure but I keep her at a lower node around 3060, life is good.
Cost was very low vs respinning everything but I guess it depends on differing factors. Shoots extremely well and I can get to 3150 before hitting pressure but I keep her at a lower node around 3060, life is good.
