I have about 90 rounds of 30-06 that my father reloaded in the 1950s using about 6 different headstamps. They were all soft-nosed and the lead has corroded a bit on all of them. Is there any problem shooting these? I want to get into reloading and at a minimum I want the brass.
70-Year Old Reloads
- Thread starter Von Hayek
- Start date
Provided your Dad did the reloads correctly, there should be no reason you can't shoot them.
Powder deteriorates over time. I would pull a couple of bullets and check the powder for appearance, smell, and clumping before firing any of them.
- Nov 3, 2010
- 10,447
- 22,806
I had some old 222 Rem reloads. I tried pulling the bullets, and all the necks tore off with the projectile. Imagine that happening in your chamber
"If" you're going to try them (notice "If") I would damn sure do it in the rifle they were loaded for. Just recognize that if that rifle has any sentimental value to you, you're taking a risk with it... Along with yourself.
Might be fine... Might not.
Mike
Do you want to risk your father's rifle and/or your face for a hundred bucks' worth of brass? I wouldn't. You can buy brand-new .30-06 brass for as little as 50-60 cents apiece for Starline, Hornady, etc. or a buck and a quarter for top-shelf Lapua. While harm to firearm or face may not be likely - from deteriorated powder squibbing a bullet into the barrel (have fun getting it out without damage) to overpressure from who knows what - I wouldn't risk it myself.
Well, that's why I asked--didn't know if there was a risk or not. And that rifle, thought not terribly valuable, is the one I value most. He built it himself and killed over a hundred deer with it. I would prefer metal not to rupture.
As I said above, I would like to get into reloading, and by that I mean don't know much about it but the basics. When you say pull the bullets out of the cases, do you literally mean put the cartridge in a vice and pull with a pair of pliers? Also, is there a trick for removing unfired primers or just use a normal die? Seems explosive.
As I said above, I would like to get into reloading, and by that I mean don't know much about it but the basics. When you say pull the bullets out of the cases, do you literally mean put the cartridge in a vice and pull with a pair of pliers? Also, is there a trick for removing unfired primers or just use a normal die? Seems explosive.
- Nov 3, 2010
- 10,447
- 22,806
Bullet puller. I was using a kinetic puller. I doubt even if I had used a collet style, the outcome would have been any different
- Nov 3, 2010
- 10,447
- 22,806
Imagine this in your chamber. Where does that energy go? It’s not controlled like it should be
OP, You typically pull bullets apart with a bullet puller, which is going to be around $25 for a basic one (inertia style). A less basic one works on a reloading press (eg a collet style), and will set you back $25-45, with collets.
If you decide to get into reloading, you will be in a position at some stage to recover the components. IE, you will learn the pro/cons and risks of what you are asking in the OP and the methods to mitigate those risks (eg, dis-assembling the ammo), and have the gear to do this.
Also, FYI also as mentioned above, there is the risk of the necks cold welding over long periods of storage. Unlike factory ammo, handloads the bullets are usually contaminated by touching the jackets. This alters their shelf-life/stability. This can lead to pressure issues or issues with disassembly, depending on what is going on.
www.snipershide.com
www.snipershide.com
www.snipershide.com
If you decide to get into reloading, you will be in a position at some stage to recover the components. IE, you will learn the pro/cons and risks of what you are asking in the OP and the methods to mitigate those risks (eg, dis-assembling the ammo), and have the gear to do this.
Also, FYI also as mentioned above, there is the risk of the necks cold welding over long periods of storage. Unlike factory ammo, handloads the bullets are usually contaminated by touching the jackets. This alters their shelf-life/stability. This can lead to pressure issues or issues with disassembly, depending on what is going on.
Preventing cold weld on long term handloads
Cold weld. This is my primary concern right now before I pound a couple thousand rounds together. One load I’m doing for friend, Is going to be round 800 rounds of 204 ruger. Might take him a decade to shoot it all. other load I wanted to put 1500 rounds of 77smk and 8208 together for long...
www.snipershide.com
Cold Welded Bullets in Neck
I am curious of some thoughts on bullets "cold welding" in the necks of handloaded ammo and why it doesn't seem to have the same effect on factory ammo. Is it caused by the fouling of previous firing? Could it be avoided by wet tumbling? Could it be avoided by using "coated" bullets? I...
www.snipershide.com
Solution for "Cold weld" bullet and case neck bonding?
To avoid the so called "cold weld" between bullet and case, anybody tried applying a bullet lubricant like liquid alox from Lee, commonly used on cast lead bullets? Roll the bullets over a small amount of alox. Allow to dry and seat them. Remove the excess from the bullet and neck. Will try it soon
www.snipershide.com
Some powders don't age well and may have negative effects on the brass... And it won't be apparent from the outside.
This is just me... Put those bullets in a box on the shelf. Every time you see them you'll think of your dad.
Maybe just throw a note in the box:
"Loaded sometime around 1960: May not be safe to fire."
That way after you're gone no one else will chance it either.
Less risk to you and a momento of your dad.
Mike
Ah, this is excellent information. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.OP, You typically pull bullets apart with a bullet puller, which is going to be around $25 for a basic one (inertia style). A less basic one works on a reloading press (eg a collet style), and will set you back $25-45, with collets.
If you decide to get into reloading, you will be in a position at some stage to recover the components. IE, you will learn the pro/cons and risks of what you are asking in the OP and the methods to mitigate those risks (eg, dis-assembling the ammo), and have the gear to do this.
Also, FYI also as mentioned above, there is the risk of the necks cold welding over long periods of storage. Unlike factory ammo, handloads the bullets are usually contaminated by touching the jackets. This alters their shelf-life/stability. This can lead to pressure issues or issues with disassembly, depending on what is going on.
Preventing cold weld on long term handloads
Cold weld. This is my primary concern right now before I pound a couple thousand rounds together. One load I’m doing for friend, Is going to be round 800 rounds of 204 ruger. Might take him a decade to shoot it all. other load I wanted to put 1500 rounds of 77smk and 8208 together for long...Cold Welded Bullets in Neck
I am curious of some thoughts on bullets "cold welding" in the necks of handloaded ammo and why it doesn't seem to have the same effect on factory ammo. Is it caused by the fouling of previous firing? Could it be avoided by wet tumbling? Could it be avoided by using "coated" bullets? I...Solution for "Cold weld" bullet and case neck bonding?
To avoid the so called "cold weld" between bullet and case, anybody tried applying a bullet lubricant like liquid alox from Lee, commonly used on cast lead bullets? Roll the bullets over a small amount of alox. Allow to dry and seat them. Remove the excess from the bullet and neck. Will try it soon
Actually, this is a fantastic idea I had not thought of. I have the Lyman 310 and dies that he used for his reloading, and I want to frame them. I had not contemplated putting some of his reloads with it. Thanks!
Literally only 2 1/2 hours between your first message and other message saying "fuck it, Im gonna shoot them." Didn't even give people enough time to see the post and give advice lol.
A high proportion of properly loaded ammunition from long past will have the bullet corroded into the neck. Fused as if welded. Often case will be fully corroded inside. Seen it many times. I would pull some down. Often nothing shows up outside.
Simply not worth it to me to bother for a mixed headstamp lot of brass.
Simply not worth it to me to bother for a mixed headstamp lot of brass.
It appears you have already opened and ate it. You must of been hunnnngrrrryyyy
Since you are still posting, I'm going with, 'It's good, eat it with rice and brown sugar"
Similar threads
