7mm barrel contour questions

[goodgorilla]

So as of right now I have a barrel ordered from Krieger which is a 1.25 strait ss, which will measure out to 29 inches. After watching a few videos displaying other people's guns, I wonder if the 1.25 strait barrel will cause a problem mounting a SWFA SS HD 5-20x50. Another issue that I am concerned with is the kick from the 7mm, I have not shot it yet but I am anticipating that after I put the heavy stock on with the thicker barrel, I will not need a muzzle break. But if I am wrong, and the kick is still fierce, the 1.25 strait causes problems for mounting decent muzzle breaks. Anyone have any insight to this setup?

 

[19Scout77]

I suggest you send that barrel off to moser engineering in indiana and have them cut 30 splines in each end of the barrel. By doing so, you will be able to maximize the benefit a 1.25 straight barrel provides.

 

[JRWALLSIII]

^^^
I just about choked ready that Eric

 

[DIBBS]

I suggest you send that barrel off to moser engineering in indiana and have them cut 30 splines in each end of the barrel. By doing so, you will be able to maximize the benefit a 1.25 straight barrel provides.

Hmm that sounds like an axle...

 

[agbm]

Hey, one option is to send back to Krieger and they will change the contour for $40.00 plus shipping as long as the barrel is still in blank form. If your barrel has not shipped yet it is easy to change just give a call to krieger. They said it would take about four weeks to have done. Just use higher rings. I have a Krieger blank in .308 SS 5R 1.25 straight X 31 inch, it's a truck axle. I have not decided if I'm going to change the contour yet .I wanted a .308 blank 5R and this was the fastest way for me to get one, Bruno's had them in stock. Krieger said they are just as accurate before a contour change to after a contour change.

 

[goodgorilla]

I have not got to barrel yet, I am just un decided if the strait is better than a smaller contour with a muzzle break. What is so good about a strait barrel? I think I will give them a call tomorrow and ask them.

 

[19Scout77]

With all due respect, it sounds like you have a lot of learning and unlearning to do. I strongly suggest you put the buying on hold for a while and try and figure out what the heck you want to do and how to get there. This is NOT the time to think you know the answers because you read it on the internet.

I suggest you start posting in the new shooters section and actually pay attention to the responses. Do not waste a Krieger employee's time with questions like you propose as they have more important things to do. If you cannot figure out the pros and cons of a 1.25" barrel by yourself then you have an entry level knowledge void that needs to be addressed before you commission a custom build.

Finally, do a little cyber sleuthing before you accept advice from an online source. There are a number of extremely accomplished shooters and knowledgeable smiths who post here, some with high post counts and some without. There are also a ton of blow hard know-nothing idiots...and they tend to be the first to regurgitate online bullshit. Reading past posts is an easy way to figure out the difference.

Here is a tip...if someone offers advice, and they have posted ALOT in the semi-auto section...they are most likely an idiot.

 

[goodgorilla]

With all due respect, it sounds like you have a lot of learning and unlearning to do. I strongly suggest you put the buying on hold for a while and try and figure out what the heck you want to do and how to get there. This is NOT the time to think you know the answers because you read it on the internet.

I suggest you start posting in the new shooters section and actually pay attention to the responses. Do not waste a Krieger employee's time with questions like you propose as they have more important things to do. If you cannot figure out the pros and cons of a 1.25" barrel by yourself then you have an entry level knowledge void that needs to be addressed before you commission a custom build.

Finally, do a little cyber sleuthing before you accept advice from an online source. There are a number of extremely accomplished shooters and knowledgeable smiths who post here, some with high post counts and some without. There are also a ton of blow hard know-nothing idiots...and they tend to be the first to regurgitate online bullshit. Reading past posts is an easy way to figure out the difference.

Here is a tip...if someone offers advice, and they have posted ALOT in the semi-auto section...they are most likely an idiot.

I've done plenty of reading online, but I have not found very much information about the strait blank. I don't know if I mentioned why I first ordered the strait blank so here is why, thicker barrels add weight to the rifle which will reduce the kick for one, and secondly the heavier barrel will yield better harmonics. I posted my questions at the top because I have 2nd thoughts about the amount of kick the 7mm puts out. If the strait blank puts out more kick than I want, I will have to send the barrel back to get re-contoured + muzzle break installation. I just posted the questions here because, someone may have some experience with the strait blank's ability to reduce recoil. I think I will just go down a contour level or two, install a break, and be done with it.

 

[J-Fonz]

I wouldn't have a brake installed on the gun unless it was a bench/comp gun. My 24" 7WSM w/ MTU taper weighs about 12-13lbs in an HTG stock and there is nothing "fierce" about the recoil.

 

[boyscout]

A barrel isn't just a barrel it is also a heat sink and weight. The more metal the more it will dissipate heat and absorb recoil. You will have no problems mounting optics. You will not need a brake.
You really need to get with a good gunsmith and determine what you need before ordering stuff. You obviously don't know enough to be planning your own build. You'll save yourself money in the long run.

 

[goodgorilla]

A barrel isn't just a barrel it is also a heat sink and weight. The more metal the more it will dissipate heat and absorb recoil. You will have no problems mounting optics. You will not need a brake.
You really need to get with a good gunsmith and determine what you need before ordering stuff. You obviously don't know enough to be planning your own build. You'll save yourself money in the long run.

I know the barrel is a heat sink and weight, but never having fired a 7mm with a strait blank my only grounds for determining if I need a break or not is by other people's experiences. I preemptively ordered the break and install because if I ordered the break later it would have cost me extra to re-do the contour, install, and break. I watched a few videos of people with the same caliber using the muzzle break plus the #10 contour. I also read that with a muzzle break, there will be less barrel whip which could allow me to spot my own shots, so that sounds like fun.

 

[scotharr]

goodgorilla,
what cartridge are you going to chamber? What action-magnum or 308? a straight .284WIN has about the same recoil as a 308win and does not need a break. The more a rifle weighs, the less the recoil and a straight taper barrel will certainly add weight to your rifle. Keep in mind that just about the only folks using a 1.25" straight taper barrel are long-range target shooters who are using 20lb+ rifles. What do you plan to do with this rifle? Any activity that involves moving....a straight 1.25" barrel is probably not the right choice.

Regarding muzzle breaks, I disdain them. Last thing you need is a device that causes hearing damage to you and those around you. They certainly reduce recoil, but they are very anti-social devices.....pretty rude to those around you.

 

[goodgorilla]

goodgorilla,
what cartridge are you going to chamber? What action-magnum or 308? a straight .284WIN has about the same recoil as a 308win and does not need a break. The more a rifle weighs, the less the recoil and a straight taper barrel will certainly add weight to your rifle. Keep in mind that just about the only folks using a 1.25" straight taper barrel are long-range target shooters who are using 20lb+ rifles. What do you plan to do with this rifle? Any activity that involves moving....a straight 1.25" barrel is probably not the right choice.

Regarding muzzle breaks, I disdain them. Last thing you need is a device that causes hearing damage to you and those around you. They certainly reduce recoil, but they are very anti-social devices.....pretty rude to those around you.

I'm going to be firing a .27 168 grain 7mm rem mag (Berger 168 Hunting VLD, Norma brass, IMR 4350 (wanted hogdon but was unavailable), federal 215 primers, load minimum to start). It's to late about the muzzle break, because the muzzle break has already been shipped off to Krieger. I'm not going with the strait blank anymore, I reduced the contour to 10. I just plan on using this rifle for target practice, or perhaps a elk hunt far down the road. I'm just using the rifle to learn how to shoot far distances. I wonder if the muzzle break is detachable, to see what the kick is like without the break. I wonder because Krieger will be installing the thing, it doesn't seem as simple as screwing it on or off, but maybe it is. Also, I wonder if I took the thing off, I will risk damaging the front end firing it without the break on with the barrel tapered.

 

[BountyHunter]

Dang, you will have a barrel that will weight 7.5 lbs by itself and add another 7+ lbs for action, stock and scope. Recoil will not be a problem, not on a 7mm Rem mag. Carrying it will be though.

Any smith can make you a thread protector when you take the brake off. Plus just because you sent Krieger the brake does not mean they have to put it on.

 

[steve123]

I'm going to be firing a .27 168 grain 7mm rem mag (Berger 168 Hunting VLD, Norma brass, IMR 4350 (wanted hogdon but was unavailable), federal 215 primers, load minimum to start). It's to late about the muzzle break, because the muzzle break has already been shipped off to Krieger. I'm not going with the strait blank anymore, I reduced the contour to 10. I just plan on using this rifle for target practice, or perhaps a elk hunt far down the road. I'm just using the rifle to learn how to shoot far distances. I wonder if the muzzle break is detachable, to see what the kick is like without the break. I wonder because Krieger will be installing the thing, it doesn't seem as simple as screwing it on or off, but maybe it is. Also, I wonder if I took the thing off, I will risk damaging the front end firing it without the break on with the barrel tapered.

I had a custom TRG42 chambered in 7mag with a medium heavy barrel and brake. It weighed around 13 lbs with scope and was very pleasant to shoot. I was shooting 176 grainers at 3040 fps which is a warm load.

It looks like you have chosen not to get the strait barrel which is a great barrel weight for benchrest or F-class but not practical for much else. I'd choose a medium palma or a little lighter and brake it. Shooting a 7mag without a brake for a long shooting session is not going to be fun. If you don't want to use the brake, like for hunting or the hearing sensitive then unscrew it.

I've decided that instead of buying more rifles and scopes, I'd buy different barrels and contours with the same or different chamberings for the nice rifles I do have. All that's needed is a barrel vice and a action wrench and 15 minutes to do the change.

Just so you know, the brakes with ports all the way around are a PITA when shooting off the bipod or near the ground, they blow debris all over the place, like on the scope lenses and in your ears. The brakes that deflect gas off to the side are much better for shooting off the ground.

 

[goodgorilla]

Just so you know, the brakes with ports all the way around are a PITA when shooting off the bipod or near the ground, they blow debris all over the place, like on the scope lenses and in your ears. The brakes that deflect gas off to the side are much better for shooting off the ground.

The break I got is a Holland radial break that doesn't have a port on the bottom. I'll take a look at the palma contour.

Edit after looking at the barrels and doing a little reading, I think I want to stay with the 10 contour. I'm not a 100% sure about keeping it, but I don't really see much of a reason to drop about a pound off the rifle. He's the link to the Krieger barrel contours:

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Rapid...ommon/ViewPage.cfm&PageId=3382&CompanyId=1246

 

[6xcKY]

Im running a MTU and I absolutely love it. Yours wont be much bigger and you will love it also due to the reduced recoil from weight, and a muzzle brake isn't the problem because your barrel will be cut and threaded so you will be ok.

Scope wont be a problem either, you will just need a 20moa rail plus high rings more than likely to raise it up enough to sit over the barrel.

 

[goodgorilla]

Im running a MTU and I absolutely love it. Yours wont be much bigger and you will love it also due to the reduced recoil from weight, and a muzzle brake isn't the problem because your barrel will be cut and threaded so you will be ok.

Scope wont be a problem either, you will just need a 20moa rail plus high rings more than likely to raise it up enough to sit over the barrel.

That sounds bad to have high rings, I wonder if I should get a different contour over that.

 

[6xcKY]

Not sure what stock exactly you are running, but a raised cheek rest will eliminate that problem...Its not going to be stupid high or anything.

 

[goodgorilla]

Not sure what stock exactly you are running, but a raised cheek rest will eliminate that problem...Its not going to be stupid high or anything.

Mcmillain a5 with cheek rest. But I do intend on shooting the rifle prone too. The scope is a swfa ss 5-20 x 50

 

[6xcKY]

Mcmillain a5 with cheek rest. But I do intend on shooting the rifle prone too.

I understand that, but what I am saying is that its not going to be uncomfortable to what your thinking it will be. If your a right handed shooter, then you will be able to support your upper torso with your left arm if you need to raise a little bit. I thought my MTU was going be a cannon, and while it is, it still is not something unbearable.

Sounds like you might want a sporter or small palma if your worried this much..

 

[goodgorilla]

I understand that, but what I am saying is that its not going to be uncomfortable to what your thinking it will be. If your a right handed shooter, then you will be able to support your upper torso with your left arm if you need to raise a little bit. I thought my MTU was going be a cannon, and while it is, it still is not something unbearable.

Sounds like you might want a sporter or small palma if your worried this much..

I was thinking about a heavy pamla. I'm not that worried, I just have the impression the Krieger staff doesn't want to receive that many changes to an order. My order is still like a month and a half out, but I already called them like 4 times and made one adjustment.

Yeah, I think I will stick with my current order and may make some changes after trying it out first. I've also done a little researching on the 20moa base, that looks pretty good and I think I'll get one.

 

[goodgorilla]

Im running a MTU and I absolutely love it. Yours wont be much bigger and you will love it also due to the reduced recoil from weight, and a muzzle brake isn't the problem because your barrel will be cut and threaded so you will be ok.

Scope wont be a problem either, you will just need a 20moa rail plus high rings more than likely to raise it up enough to sit over the barrel.

I got the 2moa rail, but not the high rings yet. I am wondering if I will need high rings if I want to dial the scope for long distance, I wonder if dialing out far will make the barrel block the view of the target. Then again, I probably should read the section on proper ring height before rising suspicions.

 

[agbm]

So as of right now I have a barrel ordered from Krieger which is a 1.25 strait ss, which will measure out to 29 inches. After watching a few videos displaying other people's guns, I wonder if the 1.25 strait barrel will cause a problem mounting a SWFA SS HD 5-20x50. Another issue that I am concerned with is the kick from the 7mm, I have not shot it yet but I am anticipating that after I put the heavy stock on with the thicker barrel, I will not need a muzzle break. But if I am wrong, and the kick is still fierce, the 1.25 strait causes problems for mounting decent muzzle breaks. Anyone have any insight to this setup?

I have the same stick in 308, 31" 5R SS and it is a lot of weight going into a Rem action to just hang. It will finish out at 28-29", What action are you running? The rings height you decide on will be what is comfortable for you. You could set the scope where the objective is only has 2/16" of clearance above the barrel, but you may have a poor fit to the rifle. I'm planning letting Krieger re-contour my 1.25" stick to a Tri-step contour to reduce weight a little bit, 1.250" for 10" then step down to 1.075" for 9" then step down to .900" for 9". I'm using a JP recoil eliminator muzzle brake on my other 308 at the moment. krieger wants you to be happy, you are spending the money. With Krieger they will not re- contour the blank if it has been chambered!!!!I will be letting them do a custom contour for me!!!

 

[goodgorilla]

I have the same stick in 308, 31" 5R SS and it is a lot of weight going into a Rem action to just hang. It will finish out at 28-29", What action are you running? The rings height you decide on will be what is comfortable for you. You could set the scope where the objective is only has 2/16" of clearance above the barrel, but you may have a poor fit to the rifle. I'm planning letting Krieger re-contour my 1.25" stick to a Tri-step contour to reduce weight a little bit, 1.250" for 10" then step down to 1.075" for 9" then step down to .900" for 9". I'm using a JP recoil eliminator muzzle brake on my other 308 at the moment. krieger wants you to be happy, you are spending the money. With Krieger they will not re- contour the blank if it has been chambered!!!!I will be letting them do a custom contour for me!!!

I have not sent my action to Krieger yet, but since ordering I have changed the contour to a #10. I am a little worried right that the #10 may weigh a little to much to free float. But, I had Holland muzzle break sent to Krieger that will fit the #10. I wonder if Holland tapered the break before they sent it to Krieger and I have no choice to go down to a # 9 or #8. But the difference from a #10 to a #9 is like half a pound. I forgot to mention that the action is a 700 Remington.

 

[Early Cuyler]

I have not sent my action to Krieger yet, but since ordering I have changed the contour to a #10. I am a little worried right that the #10 may weigh a little to much to free float. But, I had Holland muzzle break sent to Krieger that will fit the #10. I wonder if Holland tapered the break before they sent it to Krieger and I have no choice to go down to a # 9 or #8. But the difference from a #10 to a #9 is like half a pound. I forgot to mention that the action is a 700 Remington.

Say what now? Only light barrels can be free floated? I guess all those straight/no taper remington 700 benchrest rigs have a ton of stock contact!

*sarcasm font- off*
Dude, read up and think on it a bit. Why would anyone even order an MTU or heavier contour barrel if it couldn't be free floated? Hell, why would Krieger even offer it?

I understand your trepidation with respect to recoil. Just check to see the diameter of your brake if you want a smooth/seamless transition. This thread might help- http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...s/38510-mtu-contour-muzzle-brake-options.html. Personally I think you should look into getting a suppressor. That way you won't have to worry about contour, looks, and it'll be much more pleasant to shoot. Until then, a muzzle break will do.

 

[goodgorilla]

Say what now? Only light barrels can be free floated? I guess all those straight/no taper remington 700 benchrest rigs have a ton of stock contact!

*sarcasm font- off*
Dude, read up and think on it a bit. Why would anyone even order an MTU or heavier contour barrel if it couldn't be free floated? Hell, why would Krieger even offer it?

I understand your trepidation with respect to recoil. Just check to see the diameter of your brake if you want a smooth/seamless transition. This thread might help- http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...s/38510-mtu-contour-muzzle-brake-options.html. Personally I think you should look into getting a suppressor. That way you won't have to worry about contour, looks, and it'll be much more pleasant to shoot. Until then, a muzzle break will do.

The muzzle break that I ordered fits the #10 contour that has a .93 diameter at the end of the barrel. I am only concerned about my contour being to heavy for the action because of a book that I am reading that says a contour can be to heavy for an action while free floating. The contour I have is the first step down from a strait blank.