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A&D FX120i labscale reloading upgrade with V2 auto trickler review.
- Thread starter Aimsmall55
- Start date
Damn looks like I missed out on this one. Been looking at one of these scales the past few days.
Good info here, though. Things. I haven't considered but will start doing with my scales In the future.
Good info here, though. Things. I haven't considered but will start doing with my scales In the future.
Guys, I am thinking about swapping over to the A&D from a Chargemaster but I have a few questions.
I typically slide my CM out from the back of my bench about 2 ft into a comfortable position, then once Im done throwing power I slide it back. How will this unit deal with this kind of movement?
How tall is this unit with the powder throw installed?
Can the powder throw be removed easily between uses then reinstalled quickly without issue?
I typically slide my CM out from the back of my bench about 2 ft into a comfortable position, then once Im done throwing power I slide it back. How will this unit deal with this kind of movement?
How tall is this unit with the powder throw installed?
Can the powder throw be removed easily between uses then reinstalled quickly without issue?
"I typically slide my CM out from the back of my bench about 2 ft into a comfortable position, then once Im done throwing power I slide it back. How will this unit deal with this kind of movement?"
I do the same thing with mine, on a formica (smooth) benchtop. No issues, other than occasionally needing to re-level it.
Sorry, I don't have the powder throw, so I can't answer that question. I do seem to remember that it attaches to the original cover (or maybe Adam has made an aftermarket cover (?)). If so, it would be a simple matter of just lifting the cover off and the powder throw will come with it.
Answers in red above.
I broke it down into the pieces that require nothing to disassemble other than just lifting on and off. The trickler still pulls right out with an identical connector to what’s shown for the throw, I just left it connected for demonstrating location etc but if you’re thinking about storing it inside a cabinet or under a shelf I hope it helps
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Cant believe I forgot to take that off to! I mean, I only do so every time I use the scale to empty the thing lol
LOL.
Yep, low hanging fruit... but to be fair I replace the hopper after I've emptied all the powder from the unit to keep contaminants out and that's typically how I store it.
if vertical space was that much of a concern, leaving the hopper off could recoup some valuable real estate, although I'd cover the dumper intake to keep it clean.
Nonetheless you gave a really detailed breakdown.
I think the entire system is pretty awesome.
Yep, low hanging fruit... but to be fair I replace the hopper after I've emptied all the powder from the unit to keep contaminants out and that's typically how I store it.
if vertical space was that much of a concern, leaving the hopper off could recoup some valuable real estate, although I'd cover the dumper intake to keep it clean.
Nonetheless you gave a really detailed breakdown.
I think the entire system is pretty awesome.
While I'm really digging my setup, and for 6.5 Creedmoor, 308, 300 WM, etc, it's really an ideal mix of speed and precision. My only issue has been overthrows. I'll set it to 40.0 grains of Reloder 16, which I admit isn't the most uniform powder. RL 16 seems to have a mix of small and large "sticks", like mechanical pencil lead. I've found a single kernel can be really short and weigh 0.02 grains, but then I'll find a long stick that weighs as much as 0.06 grains. If it were only overthrowing by 0.02 to 0.04, I wouldn't even care, but I'm getting as much as 0.12. I just started using it, so I haven't tried any of the suggestions listed in here, like leaving the check weight on the scale, picking up and setting down the weight to warm up the magnet, dialing in the trickler, etc., but I did have a question about throwing for lighter cartridges, like 6 Dasher, which use charges in the 32 grain range.
The auto-thrower will throw 36ish to 37ish grains and trickle up. I think if I tried adjusting the thrower to get into the 27ish range, it'll just choke off the thrower and it'll just trickle up, which was my experience when setting up the thrower for 40.0 grains. Anything lower than 33ish grains, if I remember correctly, and the thrower was basically off. Any suggestions for throwing a lighter charge with the auto-thrower, or am I better off just using one of the Lee scoops and hand throwing 27 grains?
The auto-thrower will throw 36ish to 37ish grains and trickle up. I think if I tried adjusting the thrower to get into the 27ish range, it'll just choke off the thrower and it'll just trickle up, which was my experience when setting up the thrower for 40.0 grains. Anything lower than 33ish grains, if I remember correctly, and the thrower was basically off. Any suggestions for throwing a lighter charge with the auto-thrower, or am I better off just using one of the Lee scoops and hand throwing 27 grains?
I throw 32-33.2 of Varget and RL15 for my Dasher I set the thrower to dump 26-27gr then trickle up if it overthrows is .02-.04gr
Couple tricks I picked up.. The overthrows are "usually" caused when the powder gets bunched up near the end of the tube, then 5-6 kernels fall when you only need 2 to hit your target weight. I set up my trickler with a spacer under the front edge, that puts the tube just slightly going up hill. Play with the slider on the back and try slowing down the trickler a touch. These work great for me. I usually drop 38gr H4350 and trickle up to 42.50. Its rare to get more than .02 over. I just started using RE16, (100rds or so) "so far" it seems to be working fine also.
"Uphill" I use a A419 base and can adjust , and also use this technique. With RL16 it is a bit more difficult because the powder sticks aren't all the same size like say H4350. I'll still get some overthrows but not as bad.
Will still have some issues if there's powder clump. One member, added a "copper tongue" that goes into the trickler tube to loosen up clumping. Basically a copper wire which is attached to the powder trickler/cup, it runs along the tube and "u-turns" into the trickler tube.
I did see the copper wire trick.. Good idea actually, just hasn't been that bad yet for me. YET... We'll see what happens as I start using more 16.
RL16 is some of the worst powder I've seen in terms of uniformity of granule size. It gives me great velocities and so far has shown good temperature stability, though, so it's worth it.
I drilled and tapped 3 holes on the plastic base that came with my trickler (challenging since it's actually hollow) and installed 3 jack screws for adjusting the elevation. I also convert my charge weights to grams since it's the native resolution of the A&D FX balance. It doesn't resolve .02 grains or .04 grains (even though that's what it displays), it resolves .015 grains (1 milligram which is displayed as zero or .02 depending on the logic) and it resolves .03 grains (2 milligrams and again displayed as .02 or .04 depending on the logic), etc. Why fight it? Weight in grains times .0648 = weight in grams.
With RL16 or Varget (very uniform granules) most throws are plus or minus one milligram with the occasional overthrow as much as 2 milligrams heavy. When that happens I'll pull a granule out manually on the way to pouring it into the funnel and case.
One milligram is less than the weight of the average granule so +/- one milligram is close enough for me.
I fooled around with the copper wire trick (including several iterations and shapes of the wire) and it did nothing to alleviate the issues with granules bunching at the exit of the trickler tube. It did a great job of packing the tube with granules and eventually stopping the flow entirely, though.
I drilled and tapped 3 holes on the plastic base that came with my trickler (challenging since it's actually hollow) and installed 3 jack screws for adjusting the elevation. I also convert my charge weights to grams since it's the native resolution of the A&D FX balance. It doesn't resolve .02 grains or .04 grains (even though that's what it displays), it resolves .015 grains (1 milligram which is displayed as zero or .02 depending on the logic) and it resolves .03 grains (2 milligrams and again displayed as .02 or .04 depending on the logic), etc. Why fight it? Weight in grains times .0648 = weight in grams.
With RL16 or Varget (very uniform granules) most throws are plus or minus one milligram with the occasional overthrow as much as 2 milligrams heavy. When that happens I'll pull a granule out manually on the way to pouring it into the funnel and case.
One milligram is less than the weight of the average granule so +/- one milligram is close enough for me.
I fooled around with the copper wire trick (including several iterations and shapes of the wire) and it did nothing to alleviate the issues with granules bunching at the exit of the trickler tube. It did a great job of packing the tube with granules and eventually stopping the flow entirely, though.
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I've done the same with the same results. I can get +/- 1 Kernal of stick consistently. I set for 2.0 grains under target and trickle up, per the instructions. Have the trickler angled up and then minor adjust the slider to slow it down just enough.
All of the above.
For me I bought the pieces one at a time as I could afford themsome short examples:
1. trickle base - makes trickler much more stable
2. Tray - huge plus when used with their powder cup. no more guessing of where you are placing the cup, just slide it in the tray and lines up perfectly
3. Clear lid - much more sturdier than the original lid. Also no more leaning down to look into your scale
4. Auto housing - again just solid and seems smoother
I would not hesitate in buying all again.
Hope that helps some
Chad
Thank you for the reply. I have the standard unit. I admit there are places were it could be better. But some of the available upgrades just don’t make since to me. I solved the cup placement issue by measuring and drawing an x on the scale. So no issue centering the the cup. I did the straw mod so no issue with needing another version of the same. Don’t have an issue with the top flexing, but then I Handel this with kid gloves. The trickle base does seem to be a better idea. Standard power funnel works fine for me. So a this point I think I’ll just buy individual items instead up the complete upgrade kit. Unless some in can convince me other wise.
Just FYI
I tried the Area419 Clear lid and it will not work with OEM powder drop housing. Screws are too short to reach the housing due to the lid's thickness.
I'll probably still keep it and use it when not using the motorized powder drop.
I tried the Area419 Clear lid and it will not work with OEM powder drop housing. Screws are too short to reach the housing due to the lid's thickness.
I'll probably still keep it and use it when not using the motorized powder drop.
Hey I got the same issue with the 491 lid. I have looked for longer screws that could work but haven’t found a winner at the big box hardware stores. Does anyone know the specs of screws that would work with the original housing and the 419 lid?
Hey I got the same issue with the 491 lid. I have looked for longer screws that could work but haven’t found a winner at the big box hardware stores. Does anyone know the specs of screws that would work with the original housing and the 419 lid?
If all else fails, email Adam and ask him what the threads are. I imagine they are metric. I have 419 kit and didn't get the original screws or I could probably tell you.
If all else fails, email Adam and ask him what the threads are. I imagine they are metric. I have 419 kit and didn't get the original screws or I could probably tell you.
I emailed Adam and he replied immediately. He thinks these might work:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90048a113
I think the 419 lid is just under 1/2 inch, so a 3/4 inch screw might just do the trick.
BTW if you are reading this thread and you haven't pulled the trigger on the Auto Trickler: DO IT! It is a great piece of kit and Adam (the inventor) is a great guy and provides incredible support.
https://www.mcmaster.com/90048a113
I think the 419 lid is just under 1/2 inch, so a 3/4 inch screw might just do the trick.
BTW if you are reading this thread and you haven't pulled the trigger on the Auto Trickler: DO IT! It is a great piece of kit and Adam (the inventor) is a great guy and provides incredible support.
I got a reply from Adam as well:
"Hi,
#4-24 sheet metal screws are probably your best bet.
Adam"
Thanks @Horns8491 . 100 screws is way more than I need haha
I ordered it anyway...using your link.
"Hi,
#4-24 sheet metal screws are probably your best bet.
Adam"
Thanks @Horns8491 . 100 screws is way more than I need haha
I ordered it anyway...using your link.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX9Z7W4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also purchased a power conditioner/surge protector, voltage regulator with UPS.
I'm not in an area that get a lotta thunder storms, but for those who do, I'd suggest something like the link above to protect the FX120i.
We do get some brown outs.
I also purchased a power conditioner/surge protector, voltage regulator with UPS.
I'm not in an area that get a lotta thunder storms, but for those who do, I'd suggest something like the link above to protect the FX120i.
We do get some brown outs.
Also, for those who are using the A419 housing with the down spout, and having powder spillage issues, A419 has a free upgrade fix i believe.
Originally i've seen it on this thread (OP made it, and looks like A419 did the same for the fix):
http://www.65creedmoor.com/index.php?topic=10722.0
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/autotrickler-powder-spillage.3971635/
Originally i've seen it on this thread (OP made it, and looks like A419 did the same for the fix):
http://www.65creedmoor.com/index.php?topic=10722.0
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/autotrickler-powder-spillage.3971635/
Just went on area 419 and picked up the baffle. Free with free shipping.
Thanks for the heads up through that link.
Completely agree, but it again.All of the above.
some short examples:
1. trickle base - makes trickler much more stable
2. Tray - huge plus when used with their powder cup. no more guessing of where you are placing the cup, just slide it in the tray and lines up perfectly
3. Clear lid - much more sturdier than the original lid. Also no more leaning down to look into your scale
4. Auto housing - again just solid and seems smoother
I would not hesitate in buying all again.
Hope that helps some
Chad
The tray makes it easier and quicker to replace the cup.
I also made a visor for the scale, when sitting the shop light would wash out the scale screen.
I also made a beeper that let's me know it is done, very helpful for the slow trickle.
All this gets it done faster.
Just wanted to add my positive review of the A&D + Auto Throw + Auto Trickle + Area 419 upgrades.
I used to use a pair of RCBS 1500s and found them plenty adequate. Decided to try this setup out and see how it worked and now realize the dual 1500's setup was absolutely an inferior way to reload. The A&D setup is excellent. Although slightly intimidating at first, setup ended up being very easy. Operation is equally easy.
The speed and accuracy are better than anything else I’ve used. I'm getting throws ususally spot on, but occasionally plus or minus .04 gr of H1000 (one kernal is .04 gr) consistently and quickly. In fact, the next load is often already in the pan by the time I get the bullet seated from the last round.
If you're on the fence, get it! It's the best way I've found to reload and has both increased my reloading speed and the consistency of my reloaded rounds.
I used to use a pair of RCBS 1500s and found them plenty adequate. Decided to try this setup out and see how it worked and now realize the dual 1500's setup was absolutely an inferior way to reload. The A&D setup is excellent. Although slightly intimidating at first, setup ended up being very easy. Operation is equally easy.
The speed and accuracy are better than anything else I’ve used. I'm getting throws ususally spot on, but occasionally plus or minus .04 gr of H1000 (one kernal is .04 gr) consistently and quickly. In fact, the next load is often already in the pan by the time I get the bullet seated from the last round.
If you're on the fence, get it! It's the best way I've found to reload and has both increased my reloading speed and the consistency of my reloaded rounds.
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Her is where I got my complete kit.
Full Reloading Kit
These options include: FX-120I, AutoThrow and an AutoTrickler for the full reloading kit experience. USA CUSTOMERS: Packages will be sent out once a week on our export. If you submit your order by the end of Tuesday each week, it will be included in the Friday export. However, orders paid for...
ceproducts.shop
I have to say, I’ve been very pleased with mine......
It sure beats throwing charges on the ChargeMaster and trickling up on my GD305
It sure beats throwing charges on the ChargeMaster and trickling up on my GD305
Here’s the link for the baffle upgrade:
www.area419.com
Auto-Trickler Straw Replacement BAFFLE INSERT – Area 419
www.area419.com
There are currently 5 charge masters and one charge master lite for sale in the first 3 pages of the reloading gear FS forum.
One is my mine, LOL.
One is my mine, LOL.
A double setup should outrun you by a fair amount! Take a pic of your bench when you get it setup so we can all admire it.
Here you go. i just got the scale and trickler setup.
Attachments
I will need to clean off the whole bench before I can take a pic of the area.
Here is a two year old pic
Very nice setup! We’re looking at new houses right now and my only two requirements are a three car garage and a large enough home office that I can work from home and have my guns and reloading bench all in the same room. Wife can pick whatever the hell else she wants.
Here is my setup. I’m running two auto tricklers, one with a Sartorius Entris 64 and one with the A&D. I have them both mounted on a couple of marble tiles with foam between the tiles for vibration dampening. I run the Dillon off a separate bench to keep the vibrations from affecting the scales - which it doesn’t.
