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Il fix the geometry those AI engineer dumbasses came up with
I took the 7 axis (dremel tool) to the bolt to smooth out the function of it. I went to far then had to weld and re-profile the cocking ramp that the fire pin rides against.
I took the 7 axis (dremel tool) to the bolt to smooth out the function of it. I went to far then had to weld and re-profile the cocking ramp that the fire pin rides against.
I've done this with rem700s and it's works great....I however would not have the balls to do this on my AI lol.
Finally got out to test my Elite Iron spigot mount and suppressor cover today. Huge thank you to Kathy and the team they went above and beyond to sort me out.
Lucky i had the suppressor as my spotter forgot her ear protection again.
Lucky i had the suppressor as my spotter forgot her ear protection again.
Thanks man. Always here to help. Enjoy that thing!Big Thank you to MOUNTIC outdoors, scored awesome first AI AXSR from them in 300 Norma mag. Jake at MOUNTIC is awesome to deal with great help and knows everything about AI.
Firearms - Gen 3 Elite Sand ATX - $3800
Accuracy International Elite Sand ATX 6.5 Creed Gen 3 with tooless adjust 200 rounds on barrel Why is this so cheap you ask? Because I took the 7 axis (dremel tool) to the bolt to smooth out the function of it. I went to far then had to weld and re-profile the cocking ramp that the fire pin...
www.snipershide.com
Match season over for me till summer. Varmint season till then
Get my clip on co planar
Get my clip on co planar
Had the full length rail. Didn’t like it. So used a short rail section. That threw the xii collimation off cause it was zero moa
So I cut the full length rail down to a more reasonable length
Now I get to wait a month before lri ships my bolt back...never thought I'd say this but I'm actually excited to do develop a load. I think I need a cheap 6.5 barrel to chop.
Just to add to the atrocity of what has transpired in the PX.
I just really want to know what possess a person to go ahead a weld up a bolt body and change everything about cocking and function of the rifle. I have never heard of anyone doing this to ANY rifle let alone a AI. Did I really miss some kind of discussion about this?
When you’re six deep in natty light, anything is liable to happen with out consulting the group.
Bruh goto the 7 axis dremel AI sub-forum
I applaud the fact he wrecked a 650 dollar bolt body that is on perpetual back order tho. For that, I tip my hat to you sir.
Man, I thought you were the cat that effed that bolt up until I saw someone link to the PX.
You gotta modify your post to make that clear so AI researchers 500 yrs in the future don’t footnote you to hell
He did chop up a full length rail so he's not innocent from the fuckeryMan, I thought you were the cat that effed that bolt up until I saw someone link to the PX.
You gotta modify your post to make that clear so AI researchers 500 yrs in the future don’t footnote you to hell
This shit reminded me of a idiot on here that bought a ATX on this form off a friend of mine. Got home and immediately started to fuck around with the trigger and made it a single stage trigger, I know you can do it. But he had it so bad out of adjustment he had to send the whole rifle into AI for them to fix it. A couple of weeks later he sold the rifle because it wasn't smooth.... People should stop fucking around with shit they have 0 clue on what they are doing and what they read on the interwebs lol
I’m not quite sure on the new final cocking path…
top = ba-donkadonk, or
bottom = hard fuckage w/slow release
Geezus, I go to the range for a bit and look at what happens...
Nothing special, just took the MC out to zero the new proof barrel. Left quickly as people were shooting steel at 50yds with their ARs. First shots out of the Proof CF in 300PRC. I'll get some velocities when I make it to Quantico.
Nothing special, just took the MC out to zero the new proof barrel. Left quickly as people were shooting steel at 50yds with their ARs. First shots out of the Proof CF in 300PRC. I'll get some velocities when I make it to Quantico.
I’m thinking ba-donkadonk is my final answer. But how does the bolt stay open?
Below is an unmolested bolt.
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To be fair, the way the manufacturer recommends you change the trigger to single stage, doesn’t work without sear adjustments.
So much so, even the manufacturer of the trigger doesn’t get it right when you send them a trigger for adjustment.
Far cry from a dremel.
We do have to give props to our Dremel Doctor for coming forward with his work.
I’m sure he knows we feed off that sort of thing and he damn sure could have sold it (said it functioned fine) and only when confronted by the buyer simply said the previous owner must have done it and he didn’t notice it.
He will forever be an AI fucking up legend on the hide now
I’m sure he knows we feed off that sort of thing and he damn sure could have sold it (said it functioned fine) and only when confronted by the buyer simply said the previous owner must have done it and he didn’t notice it.
He will forever be an AI fucking up legend on the hide now
Ha! I pegged the legendary Fred Eisele as the Dremel Doctor over 15 years ago. Fred is an emeritus scientist at the National Center for Atmospheric Research. He collaborated on the build of a 4-channel mass spectrometer that could measure NO3, SO2 and other toxic gasses in the air. It was mounted in the NCAR C-130 and collected air through a high tech port cut through the fuselage of the C130. Fred did all kinds of wind tunnel testing that predicted the optimum air sample would require an inner Teflon tube about a foot long with a precise chamfered leading edge. Test flights showed that the wind tunnel tests sucked, so Fred took the Deadly Dremel to the tube. Test flight after test flight, it failed and got chopped shorter and shorter. Lorena Bobbit woulda been proud.
By the time we started the mission, the Teflon tube was about 1/4 inch long. So much for theory... Fred never forgave me for hanging Dremel Doctor on him.
Does anyone have the link to the Youtube, full, step-by-step AI bolt disassembly instructions? I don't think I've ever used the safety on the MC. I was trying to disassemble the bolt to clean it, but could only get the safety engaged by pushing the cocking piece back towards the rear of the housing (this was after cocking the firing pin while the bolt was in the rifle). Not sure the issue or if I should even mess with disassembling the shroud and then having to deal with the cam.
ETA - No, I don't have a dremel...
ETA - No, I don't have a dremel...
If you need help pm me I have stripped the shroud many a time it isn't bad
If the firing pin is forward/released, then you’d need to move cocking piece to the rear to engage safety.
Pretty easy though. It’s just the switch/plate, a detent ball/spring, and a plunger type piece (this is what locks the bolt with safety all the way to the rear.
Just removing the shroud cover and looking and you’ll see how it works pretty easily.
Just don’t drop the detent ball or spring.
I'll take it apart tomorrow and let everyone know where I eventually find the spring and detent.
Take it apart in a big clear plastic bag. Dang springsI'll take it apart tomorrow and let everyone know where I eventually find the spring and detent.
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