Accuracy International Picture Thread

Il fix the geometry those AI engineer dumbasses came up with

I took the 7 axis (dremel tool) to the bolt to smooth out the function of it. I went to far then had to weld and re-profile the cocking ramp that the fire pin rides against.

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Il fix the geometry those AI engineer dumbasses came up with

I took the 7 axis (dremel tool) to the bolt to smooth out the function of it. I went to far then had to weld and re-profile the cocking ramp that the fire pin rides against.
I've done this with rem700s and it's works great....I however would not have the balls to do this on my AI lol.
 
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Il fix the geometry those AI engineer dumbasses came up with

I took the 7 axis (dremel tool) to the bolt to smooth out the function of it. I went to far then had to weld and re-profile the cocking ramp that the fire pin rides against.

View attachment 8079056
What are you trying to accomplish?
 
 
I just really want to know what possess a person to go ahead a weld up a bolt body and change everything about cocking and function of the rifle. I have never heard of anyone doing this to ANY rifle let alone a AI. Did I really miss some kind of discussion about this?
 
I just really want to know what possess a person to go ahead a weld up a bolt body and change everything about cocking and function of the rifle. I have never heard of anyone doing this to ANY rifle let alone a AI. Did I really miss some kind of discussion about this?
Bruh goto the 7 axis dremel AI sub-forum
 
Bruh goto the 7 axis dremel AI sub-forum
This shit reminded me of a idiot on here that bought a ATX on this form off a friend of mine. Got home and immediately started to fuck around with the trigger and made it a single stage trigger, I know you can do it. But he had it so bad out of adjustment he had to send the whole rifle into AI for them to fix it. A couple of weeks later he sold the rifle because it wasn't smooth.... People should stop fucking around with shit they have 0 clue on what they are doing and what they read on the interwebs lol
 
Geezus, I go to the range for a bit and look at what happens...

Nothing special, just took the MC out to zero the new proof barrel. Left quickly as people were shooting steel at 50yds with their ARs. First shots out of the Proof CF in 300PRC. I'll get some velocities when I make it to Quantico.

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This shit reminded me of a idiot on here that bought a ATX on this form off a friend of mine. Got home and immediately started to fuck around with the trigger and made it a single stage trigger, I know you can do it. But he had it so bad out of adjustment he had to send the whole rifle into AI for them to fix it. A couple of weeks later he sold the rifle because it wasn't smooth.... People should stop fucking around with shit they have 0 clue on what they are doing and what they read on the interwebs lol

To be fair, the way the manufacturer recommends you change the trigger to single stage, doesn’t work without sear adjustments.

So much so, even the manufacturer of the trigger doesn’t get it right when you send them a trigger for adjustment.

Far cry from a dremel.
 
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We do have to give props to our Dremel Doctor for coming forward with his work.

I’m sure he knows we feed off that sort of thing and he damn sure could have sold it (said it functioned fine) and only when confronted by the buyer simply said the previous owner must have done it and he didn’t notice it.

He will forever be an AI fucking up legend on the hide now
 
We do have to give props to our Dremel Doctor for coming forward with his work.

I’m sure he knows we feed off that sort of thing and he damn sure could have sold it (said it functioned fine) and only when confronted by the buyer simply said the previous owner must have done it and he didn’t notice it.

He will forever be an AI fucking up legend on the hide now

Ha! I pegged the legendary Fred Eisele as the Dremel Doctor over 15 years ago. Fred is an emeritus scientist at the National Center for Atmospheric Research. He collaborated on the build of a 4-channel mass spectrometer that could measure NO3, SO2 and other toxic gasses in the air. It was mounted in the NCAR C-130 and collected air through a high tech port cut through the fuselage of the C130. Fred did all kinds of wind tunnel testing that predicted the optimum air sample would require an inner Teflon tube about a foot long with a precise chamfered leading edge. Test flights showed that the wind tunnel tests sucked, so Fred took the Deadly Dremel to the tube. Test flight after test flight, it failed and got chopped shorter and shorter. Lorena Bobbit woulda been proud.

By the time we started the mission, the Teflon tube was about 1/4 inch long. So much for theory... Fred never forgave me for hanging Dremel Doctor on him.
 
Does anyone have the link to the Youtube, full, step-by-step AI bolt disassembly instructions? I don't think I've ever used the safety on the MC. I was trying to disassemble the bolt to clean it, but could only get the safety engaged by pushing the cocking piece back towards the rear of the housing (this was after cocking the firing pin while the bolt was in the rifle). Not sure the issue or if I should even mess with disassembling the shroud and then having to deal with the cam.

ETA - No, I don't have a dremel...
 
Does anyone have the link to the Youtube, full, step-by-step AI bolt disassembly instructions? I don't think I've ever used the safety on the MC. I was trying to disassemble the bolt to clean it, but could only get the safety engaged by pushing the cocking piece back towards the rear of the housing (this was after cocking the firing pin while the bolt was in the rifle). Not sure the issue or if I should even mess with disassembling the shroud and then having to deal with the cam.

ETA - No, I don't have a dremel...
If you need help pm me I have stripped the shroud many a time it isn't bad
 
Does anyone have the link to the Youtube, full, step-by-step AI bolt disassembly instructions? I don't think I've ever used the safety on the MC. I was trying to disassemble the bolt to clean it, but could only get the safety engaged by pushing the cocking piece back towards the rear of the housing (this was after cocking the firing pin while the bolt was in the rifle). Not sure the issue or if I should even mess with disassembling the shroud and then having to deal with the cam.

ETA - No, I don't have a dremel...

If the firing pin is forward/released, then you’d need to move cocking piece to the rear to engage safety.

Pretty easy though. It’s just the switch/plate, a detent ball/spring, and a plunger type piece (this is what locks the bolt with safety all the way to the rear.

Just removing the shroud cover and looking and you’ll see how it works pretty easily.

Just don’t drop the detent ball or spring.
 
If the firing pin is forward/released, then you’d need to move cocking piece to the rear to engage safety.

Pretty easy though. It’s just the switch/plate, a detent ball/spring, and a plunger type piece (this is what locks the bolt with safety all the way to the rear.

Just removing the shroud cover and looking and you’ll see how it works pretty easily.

Just don’t drop the detent ball or spring.
I'll take it apart tomorrow and let everyone know where I eventually find the spring and detent. ;)
 
Just curious I know it was reported the AT was going away according to shot show info. But is the AX as well. Just browsing mile high site and noticed only the sage green AX is available. The others ES and DE are LE only. Just wondering if it will come down to the ATX or AXSR only?

Not sure if that’s the case but personally I like the AW/AT line the best. AX would be a second. However I truly don’t care for the ATX look wise. Which I know isn’t everything but still. I want either the thumb hole old school AI or full beefed up/handgaurd style of the AX/MC/SR.

 
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