I've heard this mentioned on here before. I was wondering what it actually is? I know it makes the gun more accurate, but I was wondering what is actually done. Also, how much does it usually cost (rough estimate)?
Action Truing
- Thread starter tanda10506
- Start date
Re: Action Truing
Blueprinting an action is just like in a race engine. Square everything, recut the threads and square the boltface, and lap the bolt lugs for more even contact. Costs vary, but check with some of the Hide sponsors. GreTan rifles has done amazing things with a Remington action. As well as GAP, and a whole bunch of others. JPG
Blueprinting an action is just like in a race engine. Square everything, recut the threads and square the boltface, and lap the bolt lugs for more even contact. Costs vary, but check with some of the Hide sponsors. GreTan rifles has done amazing things with a Remington action. As well as GAP, and a whole bunch of others. JPG
Re: Action Truing
http://www.bryantcustom.com/articles/true.htm
I found this earlier this morning when i was trying to visually explain re-cutting lugs to a firearms-lexic friend.
Heres a good explanation of what it is.
http://www.gtrtooling.com/serv02.htm
http://www.bryantcustom.com/articles/true.htm
I found this earlier this morning when i was trying to visually explain re-cutting lugs to a firearms-lexic friend.
Heres a good explanation of what it is.
http://www.gtrtooling.com/serv02.htm
Re: Action Truing
Go to Gre-Tan's website, he has some info and some good instructional videos.
Briefly, he reams the bolt raceway to a consistent diameter (0.705, IIRC), refaces the face of the action true to the freshly reamed boltway, recuts the threads with a single point tool to get them true. Recuts the surfaces the bolt lugs bear on.
Some folks will "true" an action differently using a tap to clean up the threads, but after watching Greg Tannel's method and various other methods on videos rented from Smartflix, I'll say I prefer the Gre-Tan way.
Not a gunsmith, just a crackpot with a lathe.
Go to Gre-Tan's website, he has some info and some good instructional videos.
Briefly, he reams the bolt raceway to a consistent diameter (0.705, IIRC), refaces the face of the action true to the freshly reamed boltway, recuts the threads with a single point tool to get them true. Recuts the surfaces the bolt lugs bear on.
Some folks will "true" an action differently using a tap to clean up the threads, but after watching Greg Tannel's method and various other methods on videos rented from Smartflix, I'll say I prefer the Gre-Tan way.
Not a gunsmith, just a crackpot with a lathe.
Re: Action Truing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Silverbullet-2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Blueprinting an action is just like in a race engine. Square everything, recut the threads and square the boltface, and lap the bolt lugs for more even contact. Costs vary, but check with some of the Hide sponsors. GreTan rifles has done amazing things with a Remington action. As well as GAP, and a whole bunch of others. JPG </div></div>
what blueprint are you working off of? most people are just truing/squaring the action, not machining to a predetermined spec on a blueprint
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Silverbullet-2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Blueprinting an action is just like in a race engine. Square everything, recut the threads and square the boltface, and lap the bolt lugs for more even contact. Costs vary, but check with some of the Hide sponsors. GreTan rifles has done amazing things with a Remington action. As well as GAP, and a whole bunch of others. JPG </div></div>
what blueprint are you working off of? most people are just truing/squaring the action, not machining to a predetermined spec on a blueprint
Re: Action Truing
I want mine .030 over with 10:1 compression, ported and polished, balance the crank. lol
I want mine .030 over with 10:1 compression, ported and polished, balance the crank. lol
Re: Action Truing
Blueprinting is a term used in the benchrest community since the 1950's when it was developed. JPG
Blueprinting is a term used in the benchrest community since the 1950's when it was developed. JPG
Re: Action Truing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Silverbullet-2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Blueprinting an action is just like in a race engine. Square everything, recut the threads and square the boltface, and lap the bolt lugs for more even contact. Costs vary, but check with some of the Hide sponsors. GreTan rifles has done amazing things with a Remington action. As well as GAP, and a whole bunch of others. JPG </div></div>
what blueprint are you working off of? most people are just truing/squaring the action, not machining to a predetermined spec on a blueprint
</div></div>
Someone is always a comedian!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 300sniper</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Silverbullet-2</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Blueprinting an action is just like in a race engine. Square everything, recut the threads and square the boltface, and lap the bolt lugs for more even contact. Costs vary, but check with some of the Hide sponsors. GreTan rifles has done amazing things with a Remington action. As well as GAP, and a whole bunch of others. JPG </div></div>
what blueprint are you working off of? most people are just truing/squaring the action, not machining to a predetermined spec on a blueprint
Someone is always a comedian!
Re: Action Truing
Since this is about blueprinting actions...what are most peoples opinion on bolt sleeving in regards to precision rifles used in the field?
Since this is about blueprinting actions...what are most peoples opinion on bolt sleeving in regards to precision rifles used in the field?
Re: Action Truing
Sleeving and Field use are mutually exclusive.
Sleeving creates tight tolerances, which are perfect for BR guys looking for the absolute tightest lockup and ridgity in their rifles.
Using a rifle in the field exposes it to dirt, dust, moisture, ect which if the bolts tolerances are tight (read sleeved) you have a higher chance of getting hte bolt to stick, or have issues opening/closing reliably. Tight tolerances + grit/grime = bad. Thats one of hte may reasons you see bolts that are fluted,and fit a little loose. If crap gets in the action, they just crush through it and keep going.
Sleeving and Field use are mutually exclusive.
Sleeving creates tight tolerances, which are perfect for BR guys looking for the absolute tightest lockup and ridgity in their rifles.
Using a rifle in the field exposes it to dirt, dust, moisture, ect which if the bolts tolerances are tight (read sleeved) you have a higher chance of getting hte bolt to stick, or have issues opening/closing reliably. Tight tolerances + grit/grime = bad. Thats one of hte may reasons you see bolts that are fluted,and fit a little loose. If crap gets in the action, they just crush through it and keep going.
Re: Action Truing
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oh_heck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since this is about blueprinting actions...what are most peoples opinion on bolt sleeving in regards to precision rifles used in the field? </div></div>
In a field rifle, if you want many of the benefits of sleeving, you can do "Borden Bumps" which are built up areas on the bolt to keep it centered when locked up, but leave enough gap for the bolt not to bind up on crap.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oh_heck</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Since this is about blueprinting actions...what are most peoples opinion on bolt sleeving in regards to precision rifles used in the field? </div></div>
In a field rifle, if you want many of the benefits of sleeving, you can do "Borden Bumps" which are built up areas on the bolt to keep it centered when locked up, but leave enough gap for the bolt not to bind up on crap.
