Rifle Scopes Adhesive for Spuhr mounts
- Thread starter BCX
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You are trolling right? Please tell me you are trolling.
U kidding? Im asking a question. Im having a scope slip in a set of Badger rings. 2nd time now in my 338 AI. Im going to bypass the rosin and use a adhesive!
You will not have any issue in a spuhr mount. Also you should call badger. They’d probably replace your rings. I’ve never ever had an issue with badger rings on anything and as for spuhr, the tolerances are tight. If the scope is slipping, you mounted it wrong.
Not my first rodeo. Everything degreased, locktite, torqued twice now. I have been using Badger rings for years never a issue except w this 338 AI. 108 grains of powder is no joke makes my 375 HH feel like a 308.....
108 grain of powder. You're the one causing the earthquakes in california. Use some more dude save us all.
Agree with TDH , the 50s should work fine. I've used Locktite blue on the rings between the scope as a glue, but only on questionable rings.
What's the Rifle's weight?
What's the Rifle's weight?
I just mounted my first Spuhr a couple weeks ago, and it’s solid AF... if I were you I would try a Spuhr without any adhesive first.. still can’t believe I waited this long to buy a Spuhr
Just under 15 lbs scoped in a JAE. I believe there is nothing to absorb the recoil pulse in a chassis so it acts as a giant tuning fork. I have a Manners 100 % CF stock on order for hunting season which should lighten it up 3lbs. It should also flex a little more taking some of the jolt off the scope setup.
I just want to make this clear I’m NOT faulting the Badger rings by any means. I use and will continue to use Badger rings in my other rifles. There is a reason Badger makes the Max 50 rings. I also use the Badger M40 rings which is my favorite ring setup!!
I’d definitely avoid anything that requires temperature to break, I think I remember something about using blue loctite from Spuhr himself but my memory is slippery. It does mention it in the installation manual as posted above, and removing blue loctite is easy. I’m all about overbuilding from the beginning.
Push the scope forward until it stops against the front ring. It won’t slip anymore.
Not sure i feel comfortable doing that on a expensive scope. Im sure its a pressed fit.
If my SB tube starts pulling apart I'm sure it won't be covered under warranty. Im 100% sure the Spuhr will solve my issue.
Enlighten me please. I have been shooting my entire life but apparently if the scope is moving after 20 shots from a 285 grain bullet behind 108 grains of powder going 3k FPS there is a ton of recoil impulse!!!! You don't think constant battering on my scope where it is a pressed fit which happens to be my switch for my lighted reticle there will be no damage???
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So my ring spacing will be 2.5 inches on 17 inch scope???? LMFAO Spuhr on the way.>>> either way the scope will get battered,,, think about it?
Just curious, what muzzle brake to you run? 108gr powder and 285gr bullet is a stout load, so not doubting the problem at hand, but a good brake should tame that recoil quite a lot I would think.
You may want to consider bedding your rings. Even if your rings are perfect the scope tube may not be and clamping force could be compromised.
Spuhr w adhesive will solve the problem. Years ago i had a TC Encore 500SW, I actually bent a steel rings on a 2 ring setup. Sent it off to SSK for a TSOB 4-ring mount--- never a issue again. At some point you need to figure out the recoil and use a ring setup with enough clamping force. I had these rings laying around so decided to try them knowing it was a gamble. 75 rounds later and Spuhr on the way.
Many years ago it was somewhat popular to use rubber cement to bed both the base/rail to the action as well as the rings. I have used it to bed a rail on a Rem 700 with good success (although it probably wasn't needed). I have never felt the need to bed or use adhesive on my rings but YMMV.
Except inertia. Turret housings are not recoil lugs.
I use a thin layer of fine ground rosin powder in the ring halves and the mount base in my Spuhr mount. The instructions from Spuhr, that “seansmd” posted, also recommends the use of powdered rosin. Here is a recommendation from Amazon.
I also have the Spuhr Fix-It Stick kit. I start by evenly snugging the 6 screws in each cap ensuring that the scope is still level using the Spuhr leveler wedge. Ensure that the gaps between the cap and the mount are close to equal. NOTE: As the caps are tightened the wedge can become bound so you need to do the torquing in steps while removing the wedge and reinstalling the wedge to ensure level.
Once the caps are snugged down, torque the center two screws in each cap. Then work on just one cap and cross tighten the screws to their torque value. Then do the same on the other cap. Then go back to the first cap and cross tighten all 6 screws, do the same on the other cap. You may need to perform this torquing procedure 2 or 3 times but continue to re-torque all the screws in each cap in a cross tightening method until there is no movement in the screws.
I have a US Optics and Spuhr mount on a .308 gas gun and after 3,000+ rounds have had no movement of the scope and the screws have not loosened. I did not use Loctite on the screws.
I also have the Spuhr Fix-It Stick kit. I start by evenly snugging the 6 screws in each cap ensuring that the scope is still level using the Spuhr leveler wedge. Ensure that the gaps between the cap and the mount are close to equal. NOTE: As the caps are tightened the wedge can become bound so you need to do the torquing in steps while removing the wedge and reinstalling the wedge to ensure level.
Once the caps are snugged down, torque the center two screws in each cap. Then work on just one cap and cross tighten the screws to their torque value. Then do the same on the other cap. Then go back to the first cap and cross tighten all 6 screws, do the same on the other cap. You may need to perform this torquing procedure 2 or 3 times but continue to re-torque all the screws in each cap in a cross tightening method until there is no movement in the screws.
I have a US Optics and Spuhr mount on a .308 gas gun and after 3,000+ rounds have had no movement of the scope and the screws have not loosened. I did not use Loctite on the screws.
So what you’re saying, in order to stop inertia from ripping apart my scope, I should mount it a quarter inch to the rear?
Cuz this way has worked well for thousands of rounds. No slippage, no glue, minimum torque on the screws, etc.
But you know better. So please explain how a quarter inch is going to save my scope from destruction.
Are your rings allowing the scope tube to slip? If not, this doesn't apply to you. The OP's rings are allowing slippage. If the rings aren't stopping the scope from slipping, you are in essence using the turret housing as a recoil lug for the scope, allowing the front tube remain forward due to inertia and ripping the turret housing backward.
The clamping force of the scope rings is usually enough to overcome the inertia of the scope, but it is not in the OP's case.
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Yes the rings allow the scope to slip. But that’s not the point.
The point, in the context of the OP, is given the limited real estate within the Spuhr mount and on the scope tube, how is a fucking quarter inch going to matter?????
The point, in the context of the OP, is given the limited real estate within the Spuhr mount and on the scope tube, how is a fucking quarter inch going to matter?????
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