Adjustable cheek hardware

[mscott]

I did a little looking around the web at every design I could find and made these 2 different types of hardware for an adjustable cheek piece. I haven't installed either one yet, but will update this thread when I get around to it. So far I like the one with the plate clamping onto the 3/8" aluminum rods. It doesn't require much force at all to hold tight. The one that just squeezes the rods works fine and is less time consuming to make, but does require a little more force with the allen wrench. Any other thoughts or ideas are welcome.

 

[xcDave15]

I like the look of those. Seems like it could be adapted/modified for a length of pull adjustment as well

 

[mscott]

I like the look of those. Seems like it could be adapted/modified for a length of pull adjustment as well

That sounds like a good idea as well. Might try that just to do it.

 

[Red_SC]

If you look at the Terry Cross / KMW Loggerhead, there are grooves machined into one of the posts, and you put a clip on whichever groove would bottom out on the block. That keeps the cheekpiece from collapsing if it's hit, and it slides in the same amount each time so you only have to adjust it right the first time. It would be easy to add to your design.

 

[mscott]

If you look at the Terry Cross / KMW Loggerhead, there are grooves machined into one of the posts, and you put a clip on whichever groove would bottom out on the block. That keeps the cheekpiece from collapsing if it's hit, and it slides in the same amount each time so you only have to adjust it right the first time. It would be easy to add to your design.

I know a couple of guys with that hardware, so know how it works. I just haven't gotten that far yet. The cheek piece will be easily removeable as it's going to be held in place with rare earth magnets.
Here's the only other pic I've taken so far since adding the butt plate, cutting the cheek piece and inletting the hardware.

 

[medium rare]

How did you make such a clean cut on the stock for the cheek piece?

 

[mscott]

How did you make such a clean cut on the stock for the cheek piece?

Jet 14" band saw with a 1/4" blade.

 

[medium rare]

Thanks. I've been wanting to try it but I'm worried I would ruin a good stock.

 

[den42]

stock came out looking really good, think you did a great job!

 

[DocB]

mscott,

It would be nice to see the adjustment side of the stock. Also, is any compensation required when the cuts on the stock are sealed?

Thanks,
DocB

 

[mscott]

mscott,

It would be nice to see the adjustment side of the stock. Also, is any compensation required when the cuts on the stock are sealed?

Thanks,
DocB

What are you talking about for compensation when sealing? I just used some laquer and it's done. When fully closed it doesn't match perfectly due to the saw curf, but that's not really a concern to me. I think I'll paint the hardware black and still need to clean up the cheek piece a bit. Here are a couple more pics.

 

[B3dlam]

This looks awesome! Well done. When you say the cheek piece is held on by rare earth magnets is that all that holds it on? Seems like that would work well for a bench rest gun but if your hunting with it or anything I would worry about it getting knocked off.

 

[mscott]

It's a Savage F class stock. Rifle will have a 30" bull barrel. It's not a hunting gun. There are holes in place in case screws are ever desired, but it fits very securely as is.

 

[M1Amen]

Could you list the dimensions of the materials you used? I am wanting to make a similar riser and have been toying with various ways to do it as well.

 

[djarecke]

Very nice! I'd like to get some plans for this setup as well!

 

[mscott]

The main block is 1"x1.25" tall and 3.5" long. The top piece is 1/4"x1" bar 3.5" long. The rods are 3/8 and 2" on center. I'm making a small batch of these right now (since, of course, all of my rifles need one) that are a little different, but very similar. I'll get a couple of new pics later. The clamping bar will be 1/4x3/4" material. The one that is chopped up and just pinches the rod didn't work out nearly as well, so forget about that style.

 

[ahhshoot]

My current build is a 6.5cm on a bighorn TL-2 with a Bartlein 24" heavy Varmint 5r bbl. I'm trying to keep a classic look as the gun will be used for long range shooting as well as a hunting rifle (a sleeper, if you will). For this reason (and to save some $$) I'm using a factory Rem 700 wood stock that I'd like to modify to have an adjustable cheek rest, this looks like it would work but my only concern is width. I will have the stock in my possession this week and compare the dimensions, but if it were to work, are you still making these and how much would you charge for it?

Thanks

 

[WhiteHorze]

I went with Graco pieces for my cheek and butt. Fairly easy to install with my dremel. Once I get my shop setup i'll be using a mill.

The reason I went with the Graco butt is that it screws in on a threaded pipe. It won't walk on long shotstrings. The cheek I just screwed into the upper after recessing it. It comes with 2 sleeves that you can drill and tap butt since my 260 is a target rifle I'm just going to use pipe spacers and leave it loose.

On my 308 I Used 7/16 bolts crosspinned into the top of an Aluminum block that I glassed into the stock. 20 years later it's still tight.

 

[zac_c]

Looks great mike