Advice for a Newby interested in portable single stage reloading setup for 6.5 and 308

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eugevita

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Jun 10, 2020
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#1
Greetings Hide!

So I am interested in potentially getting into reloading for my precision rifles (mainly my b14 hmr 6.5 but also maybe my 308 700). I have around 800 cases of once fired hornady 6.5CM brass that I have collected and would love to be able to load it up and long term save money on ammo. I will also soon have some once fired FGMM 308 brass after my new batch arrives.

Here are my main considerations and limiting factors:

1. I have absolutely no reloading experience other than youtube videos and talking to fellow shooters who reload. Whatever setup I get needs to be fairly simple so that I dont get overwhelmed. I imagine reloading is not rocket science but I really lack experience in this realm...

2. Due to my current job in the military I am averaging 1 move per every 1-2 years and am mainly living in apartments and therefore do not have the space for a dedicated basement or garage reloading area/bench. I am of course looking forward to having a gun/reloading room one day : - ) Just not there yet....

Hence my question: Is it possible or even advisable for me to be able to set up a relatively minimalistic/portable single stage reloading setup which would allow me to reload my 6.5 brass and then maybe 308 and some other calibers down the line. The priority would be to have a setup that can easily be packed up, hidden away in the apartment, and moved while allowing me to still load good match grade ammo for my precision rifles. If you have suggestions on kits, etc let me know.

I appreciate your advice and suggestions, while I am a fairly experienced shooter I am completely inexperienced with reloading and hence do not know what I do or do not need to accomplish my end state. Thank you
 
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#3
eugevita said:
Greetings Hide!

So I am interested in potentially getting into reloading for my precision rifles (mainly my b14 hmr 6.5 but also maybe my 308 700). I have around 800 cases of once fired hornady 6.5CM brass that I have collected and would love to be able to load it up and long term save money on ammo. I will also soon have some once fired FGMM 308 brass after my new batch arrives.

Here are my main considerations and limiting factors:

1. I have absolutely no reloading experience other than youtube videos and talking to fellow shooters who reload. Whatever setup I get needs to be fairly simple so that I dont get overwhelmed. I imagine reloading is not rocket science but I really lack experience in this realm...

2. Due to my current job in the military I am averaging 1 move per every 1-2 years and am mainly living in apartments and therefore do not have the space for a dedicated basement or garage reloading area/bench. I am of course looking forward to having a gun/reloading room one day : - ) Just not there yet....

Hence my question: Is it possible or even advisable for me to be able to set up a relatively minimalistic/portable single stage reloading setup which would allow me to reload my 6.5 brass and then maybe 308 and some other calibers down the line. The priority would be to have a setup that can easily be packed up, hidden away in the apartment, and moved while allowing me to still load good match grade ammo for my precision rifles. If you have suggestions on kits, etc let me know.

I appreciate your advice and suggestions, while I am a fairly experienced shooter I am completely inexperienced with reloading and hence do not know what I do or do not need to accomplish my end state. Thank you
Click to expand...

Long term savings is a hard thing to achieve (IMHO) when looking to do "precision" reloading. First, good quality equipment is not cheap and second, cost of supplies (e.g. powder, primers and bullets) often offsets any saving due to shooting a lot more. 😵 ;) You've heard about that "rabbit hole". . . right?

It'd help a lot to have some idea what kind of budget your looking at.
 
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#4
straightshooter1 said:
Long term savings is a hard thing to achieve (IMHO) when looking to do "precision" reloading. First, good quality equipment is not cheap and second, cost of supplies (e.g. powder, primers and bullets) often offsets any saving due to shooting a lot more. 😵 ;) You've hear about that "rabbit hole". . . right?

It'd help a lot to have some idea what kind of budget your looking at.
Click to expand...
^^^ This

Not wanting to be discouraging, just realistic. You will need more space than you plan for as you venture down the said rabbit hole.
A big part to reloading is working up loads to see what your guns like. By the nature of this, you will end up with multiple powders, bullets, possibly multiple primers, brass, etc, although if you're not chasing unicorns, then mostly brass, powder and bullets. Those can be stored away pretty well if you're organized. A 2-3ft by 6-8ft table top fastened against a back wall would be a good start. That would be easy enough to relocate and allow for ample room for a press. You can screw other tools such as an electric trimmer, chamfers, etc to a 2x4 and then mount in a vise on the bench. Do some research on here and go for it!
You already have a lot of brass so that's a great head start.
 
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#5
straightshooter1 said:
Long term savings is a hard thing to achieve (IMHO) when looking to do "precision" reloading. First, good quality equipment is not cheap and second, cost of supplies (e.g. powder, primers and bullets) often offsets any saving due to shooting a lot more. 😵 ;) You've hear about that "rabbit hole". . . right?

It'd help a lot to have some idea what kind of budget your looking at.
Click to expand...

I hear ya, as far as budget goes. I am looking to spend no more than 600 bucks for the initial portable setup. Do you think this is possible or even worthwhile?
 
#8
Here's a long thread but OP is asking same questions as you with a similar budget. I commented on what I use to trim brass, which inevitably you'll have to do unless you get rid of it. Hornady has swaging bits for small and large primer pockets that fit the machine also. There's speedy automatic machines out there but they're expensive!
www.snipershide.com

NOOB needing help on reloading equipment

I test the Dillon powder throw every time. It stays + / - 0.1gr so as good as I have for digital scale. It's the extra brass processing that keeps the single stage running. And quick change dies on the lee for small tasks or processing range brass.
www.snipershide.com www.snipershide.com
 
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#9
eugevita said:
I hear ya, as far as budget goes. I am looking to spend no more than 600 bucks for the initial portable setup. Do you think this is possible or even worthwhile?
Click to expand...
You totally can. You’ll have to do a bit of manual labor instead of electronically automating stuff but that’s how most of us started anyways. But if you aren’t shooting 100 rounds every week then you won’t suffer too much.
I tapped holes in my coffee table for my press meaning I don’t even have a real bench I load on. I keep all of my stuff out on top a cabinet but I could easily store it inside one small cabinet too if I were pressed for space in an apartment instead of a converted garage.
 
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#11
eugevita said:
I hear ya, as far as budget goes. I am looking to spend no more than 600 bucks for the initial portable setup. Do you think this is possible or even worthwhile?
Click to expand...

You might want to consider starting with something like this:
www.rcbs.com

Buy Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit and More | RCBS

Shopping for the Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit - Learn more about the latest RCBS Kits and other hunting or shooting gear at RCBS.
www.rcbs.com www.rcbs.com

Also, you need a good caliper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IG46NL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some Sizing dies:

Amazon.com : Lee Deluxe Carbide 4-Die Set : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Lee Deluxe Carbide 4-Die Set : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com

Highly recommend Imperial Sizing Die Wax:

Amazon.com : Imperial Redding Sizing Die Wax 2 Ounce Tin Md: 07600 : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Imperial Redding Sizing Die Wax 2 Ounce Tin Md: 07600 : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com

You can clean cases by hand and is good to lease the carbon on the inside of the cases, but clean the primer pockets. But a vibratory case tumbler is a nice way to go. I use medium grain rice in one like this:

Amazon.com : Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Vibratory Case Tumbler for Cleaning and Polishing for Reloading : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ 110V Vibratory Case Tumbler for Cleaning and Polishing for Reloading : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com

Note: These suggestion are based on trying to stay within your budget and not the ideal equipment I might otherwise suggest. But, they can get the job done with a little work. . . especially for beginning.
 
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#15
Thank you all for the great info!

At the moment if I go for it I am inclined to go towards the lee hand press as recommended by Steel and 918v. Here is my overall and understand and thoughts, if I am off azimuth please let me know.


Seems like the lee hand press is a solid option and very portable which I like. While I understand that it is not the fastest press by any means am I correct in my understanding that this will not affect my ability to load precise 6.5 CM ammo assuming my other components are good.

https://www.amazon.com/LEE-PRECISION-90180-Breech-Press/dp/B0050Z5A6E. (about $55 on amazon)

Next it sounds like I will need a tumbler to clean my brass. I am thinking of this one from Lyman which includes some media. How often does media need to be changed? Ie. is it a one time use thing?

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Cleani...1&keywords=case+tumbler&qid=1595793002&sr=8-8 ($74 on amazon with media included)

Caliper as recommended by straightshooter. $113. As I understand this would be used to measure the case before and after trimming to ensure correct size. Any chance I can get away with one that is a little less pricey?


Sizing Wax as recommended by straightshooter. ($17)

Amazon.com : Imperial Redding Sizing Die Wax 2 Ounce Tin Md: 07600 : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Imperial Redding Sizing Die Wax 2 Ounce Tin Md: 07600 : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com

6.5 Creedmor Dies. ($62) Let me know if you think these would work well with hand press or if I should get a different set.

Lyman Case Prep Tool

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...rep-units/case-prep-multi-tool-prod55071.aspx ($22). Seems simple any reason not to go with it?

Amazon.com: Lyman 7777800 Case Prep Multi Tool, Multiple: Sports & Outdoors

Buy Lyman 7777800 Case Prep Multi Tool, Multiple: Oscillating Tools - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

Still not sure which trimmer and scale I should consider. Also do I need a case gage?
 
#17
This Lee hand press is really comfortable and natural to use. It has plenty of leverage.

The Buchanan above is extremely well made, BUT it is awkward to use and has no leverage. I had the predecessor to the B and it was such a pain in the ass I sold it the same week I bought it.

I then bought a Meacham Anywhere Press which is by leaps and bounds the best hand press ever made but Meacham is no longer around. This press is made like a benchrest rifle. Everything is zero clearance lapped in.
 
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#19
918v said:
This Lee hand press is really comfortable and natural to use. It has plenty of leverage.

The Buchanan above is extremely well made, BUT it is awkward to use and has no leverage. I had the predecessor to the B and it was such a pain in the ass I sold it the same week I bought it.

I then bought a Meacham Anywhere Press which is by leaps and bounds the best hand press ever made but Meacham is no longer around. This press is made like a benchrest rifle. Everything is zero clearance lapped in.
Click to expand...

That Buchanan looks badass. But I will take your word on lack of leverage, looked that way in the videos to me too, like they were working real hard. The Lee seems like a great value. Any reason not to get it? Sounds like it is just as capable at producing precise rifle handloads as more expensive equipment.
 
#20
I am a bit confused on case trimming. After I clean my brass in the tumbler I understand it needs to be trimmed/primer pocket cleaned with a tool.

Is this when I measure it with a caliper and trim little by little until I remeasure and verify that it is the correct length per a reloading book? After trimming I understand that I have to use the chamfer/deburr tool?

Or can I use the case gage in lieu of a caliper to ensure correct length? Appreciate it if someone can answer this for me; I know it is a newbie question.
 
#21
eugevita said:
That Buchanan looks badass. But I will take your word on lack of leverage, looked that way in the videos to me too, like they were working real hard. The Lee seems like a great value. Any reason not to get it? Sounds like it is just as capable at producing precise rifle handloads as more expensive equipment.
Click to expand...

The only reason is cosmetic. Like the rest of Lee’s product line, the hand press looks cheaply made. But it works awesome. I have 5, they used to cost $20.
 
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#22
eugevita said:
I am a bit confused on case trimming. After I clean my brass in the tumbler I understand it needs to be trimmed/primer pocket cleaned with a tool.

Is this when I measure it with a caliper and trim little by little until I remeasure and verify that it is the correct length per a reloading book? After trimming I understand that I have to use the chamfer/deburr tool?

Or can I use the case gage in lieu of a caliper to ensure correct length? Appreciate it if someone can answer this for me; I know it is a newbie question.
Click to expand...

you trim after sizing
 
#24
Didn’t read through the complete thread so this may have been mentioned but....
Keep in mind the time invested in the whole reloading process..... if you have a lot of free time then by all means, get into the reloading hobby/rabbit hole.... but if you have little time or you value your time, just buy your ammo....

Also, you’ll end up wanting a chronograph as well if you decide to reload....
 
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#25
eugevita said:
I get that. But can I size via caliper or case gage? What is the unique purpose of case gage vs caliper? Thanks
Click to expand...

I prefer caliper because case gauge is for quick QC checks not precision measuring.

I use a .40 S&W case inverted over the case shoulder to measure the change in shoulder length from before and after sizing.
 
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#26
Here’s a few thoughts off the top of my head. Get a roll around tool chest the lower part only, add solid top. Also makes a good place to store equipment and supplies. Non slip shelf liner inside cabinet. Use a closet to store it when not in use.
Search the px for decent used stuff, usually have to act quick because the good stuff goes pretty quick.

Check out various threads here about reloading setups, have to search through them but there are folks showing limited space setups in them. I found a lot of good ideas there. There are some built inside closets. However, if you are renting that might not work so well unless it’s portable, like a roll around chest or something similar. Check out these to start.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/reloading-room-ideas.6984155/
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/building-the-perfect-reloading-room.6254155/

And here are a couple threads that have ideas for other stuff that helps.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/workbench.6979376/
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/rifle-vise.6965176/
 
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#28
D339F90C-2C84-4B15-8FDD-361C62F20B25.jpeg
 
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#32
Macman25 said:
Here’s a few thoughts off the top of my head. Get a roll around tool chest the lower part only, add solid top. Also makes a good place to store equipment and supplies. Non slip shelf liner inside cabinet. Use a closet to store it when not in use.
Search the px for decent used stuff, usually have to act quick because the good stuff goes pretty quick.

Check out various threads here about reloading setups, have to search through them but there are folks showing limited space setups in them. I found a lot of good ideas there. There are some built inside closets. However, if you are renting that might not work so well unless it’s portable, like a roll around chest or something similar. Check out these to start.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/reloading-room-ideas.6984155/
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/building-the-perfect-reloading-room.6254155/

And here are a couple threads that have ideas for other stuff that helps.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/workbench.6979376/
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/rifle-vise.6965176/
Click to expand...

Thank you! Some awesome examples there, something to aspire to for sure!
 
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#33
eugevita said:
Apologies for the ignorance again but why is the empty case on top needed? Is it not enough to use the caliper to measure from to neck on the rifle case? Im sure there is something simple I must be missing here...
Click to expand...

I use the .40 case to measure the change in shoulder length after sizing. I measure the total case length directly with the caliper.
 
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#34
Several companies sell comparitor sets to check headspace / shoulder length.

Distance from base to the datum point on the shoulder.

That lets you measure your bump / setback.

If your handy a empty case can be used as shown.

I bought a set since this tool is used a lot by me.
When asking for reloading advise this dimension will be asked for all the time.
 
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#35
eugevita said:
Apologies for the ignorance again but why is the empty case on top needed? Is it not enough to use the caliper to measure from to neck on the rifle case? Im sure there is something simple I must be missing here...
Click to expand...
It acts as a datum, aka a plane like from geometry, but it allows you to measure the same point on the angled case shoulder consistently before and after sizing to see how short you are actually making the case body.
It doesn’t matter exactly what that datums actual diameter is on the case shoulder, you just want it closeish to the middle of the shoulder and consistent in shape.

Hornady and Sinclair make some nice machined comparators that swap in and out of a caller mounted body but for basically free you can use a 40 s&w case for a .400” or a 9mm case for .380” datum.
1595823613029.png
 
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#36
Get a single stage press. Any "0" type will work. You can bolt the press to a 2x6 and then C clamp it where needed.
Beam scale, even the Lee is very accurate. You can get a digital one also for double checking.
Dies, get the best you can afford
Tumbler really isn't needed unless you are picking up range brass.
Buddy of mine just wipes down the cases with a wet rag.

You can find used items on here and ebay.
 
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#37
I think the first thing you need to buy is a good up to date book on reloading. It will not only explain the basis of reloading, what you needed get started, but will give you the data you need regarding your particular cartridge.

And when I lived in a small condo, I went the mobile tool box way, with a wooden top mounted on top. The bottom drawer contained powder, the middle drawer had primers, and the top drawer bullets, and small items, and a Lee classic press mounted on the wooden top. I have no idea how many thousands of rounds I made on that thing. When I wasn't using it, I rolled it into a closet. I was able to buy some used equipment off of Craig's list and from a guy who no longer reloaded for cheap.

I would think a $600 budget is doable to get you started in making ammo, and good ammo. After you gain some experience, and have a little more cash to spend, then you can go for precision.
 
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#38
eugevita said:
I am a bit confused on case trimming. After I clean my brass in the tumbler I understand it needs to be trimmed/primer pocket cleaned with a tool.

Is this when I measure it with a caliper and trim little by little until I remeasure and verify that it is the correct length per a reloading book? After trimming I understand that I have to use the chamfer/deburr tool?

Or can I use the case gage in lieu of a caliper to ensure correct length? Appreciate it if someone can answer this for me; I know it is a newbie question.
Click to expand...

1.) Get a reloading book... I recommend the Lyman 50th edition. It covers all the bases plus more, and has multiple bullet and powder manufacturers.
2.) Read that book 2, 3, 4 times until you know it.
3.) Watch all the videos and read the pinned threads at the top of this Reloading forum

Trimming and measuring:
You start with a case, usually a fired case.
You need to resize this case to fit back into your chamber. So you lube your case, resize it in your die. When you resize your brass, it makes the neck of the brass smaller, and it pushes the shoulder of the brass back a little (this is headspace). When you force that brass to get smaller, it stretches it length wise. This means that the mouth/neck of the case grows in length. That is why you need to trim, to shorten the neck so it fits in your chamber. When you resize you're also pushing the shoulder back, and this should be measured as well. Thats what the 40 cal case was being used for, is you need a consistent spot on the shoulder to measure length. Generally most guys push the shoulders of their cases 0.002"-0.003" back. You can also get a "comparator" tool for this. Hornady sells one.

I was in your same position 9 years ago and I think $600 is doable because thats almost exactly how much I spent when I started. I was also in the Army and living half at a friends house and half at the barracks. I got an old dresser from a friend and lagged my Lyman press down to it. I got all the minimum crap I would need, including the Lyman 49th edition book. read it cover to cover 2-3 times and started making ammo.

If I had been on this forum 9 years ago, I would have saved my self SOOOO much time and money lol. Use this resource as much as possible.

PM me if you wanna video chat or something and I can walk you through a single stage press set up with all hand tools. I do not have a hand press though so I can only show you on an actual press, but same basic process.
 
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#39
Gustav7 said:
1.) Get a reloading book... I recommend the Lyman 50th edition. It covers all the bases plus more, and has multiple bullet and powder manufacturers.
2.) Read that book 2, 3, 4 times until you know it.
3.) Watch all the videos and read the pinned threads at the top of this Reloading forum

Trimming and measuring:
You start with a case, usually a fired case.
You need to resize this case to fit back into your chamber. So you lube your case, resize it in your die. When you resize your brass, it makes the neck of the brass smaller, and it pushes the shoulder of the brass back a little (this is headspace). When you force that brass to get smaller, it stretches it length wise. This means that the mouth/neck of the case grows in length. That is why you need to trim, to shorten the neck so it fits in your chamber. When you resize you're also pushing the shoulder back, and this should be measured as well. Thats what the 40 cal case was being used for, is you need a consistent spot on the shoulder to measure length. Generally most guys push the shoulders of their cases 0.002"-0.003" back. You can also get a "comparator" tool for this. Hornady sells one.

I was in your same position 9 years ago and I think $600 is doable because thats almost exactly how much I spent when I started. I was also in the Army and living half at a friends house and half at the barracks. I got an old dresser from a friend and lagged my Lyman press down to it. I got all the minimum crap I would need, including the Lyman 49th edition book. read it cover to cover 2-3 times and started making ammo.

If I had been on this forum 9 years ago, I would have saved my self SOOOO much time and money lol. Use this resource as much as possible.

PM me if you wanna video chat or something and I can walk you through a single stage press set up with all hand tools. I do not have a hand press though so I can only show you on an actual press, but same basic process.
Click to expand...

Gustav, thank you! Just ordered the Lyman book, and will send you a PM, appreciate the kind help!
 
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#40
Kevins750 said:
Get a single stage press. Any "0" type will work. You can bolt the press to a 2x6 and then C clamp it where needed.
Beam scale, even the Lee is very accurate. You can get a digital one also for double checking.
Dies, get the best you can afford
Tumbler really isn't needed unless you are picking up range brass.
Buddy of mine just wipes down the cases with a wet rag.

You can find used items on here and ebay.
Click to expand...

Is this a general consensus? Does accuracy suffer for some reason if I dont clean my brass in a tumbler or ultrasonic?

If I can get away with a damp rag for wiping my brass and a nylon brush for quick clean of the neck inside that would be awesome. Overall my brass looks fairly clean since I am mainly shooting a bolt gun and not a gas autoloader (that brass comes out filthy). Just want to understand whether there are any consequences to this more expedient method.
 
#41
eugevita said:
Is this a general consensus? Does accuracy suffer for some reason if I dont clean my brass in a tumbler or ultrasonic?

If I can get away with a damp rag for wiping my brass and a nylon brush for quick clean of the neck inside that would be awesome. Overall my brass looks fairly clean since I am mainly shooting a bolt gun and not a gas autoloader (that brass comes out filthy). Just want to understand whether there are any consequences to this more expedient method.
Click to expand...

I don't think so. I only tumble my AR brass. My 6.5cm brass has yet to need to be cleaned, plus they do get tumbled after sizing so they end up getting cleaned there. I tumble my pistol brass maybe once every 2-3 firings.

Personally I would pass on the tumbler now. Especially if you're only reloading 6.5cm. If you pick up another caliber later, then maybe, but its an expense you can forgo now and get it later for not much.

I would take the money from the tumbler and find a good deal on a Chargemaster Lite. The only issue there is you'll need electric to run it. A balance beam scale will work just as well...but its quite slow. To effectively make a balance scale faster, you'll want a powder measure to throw the main charge, but just shy of your goal charge, then a small trickler to finish it off. By that time you're not far from the price of a Chargemaster Lite. I waited until there was a sale and got one from Natchez for $200 new.

I'll reply to your PM now and we can continue this conversation there. Keep reading and asking questions on here though.
 
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#42
eugevita said:
Is this a general consensus? Does accuracy suffer for some reason if I dont clean my brass in a tumbler or ultrasonic?

If I can get away with a damp rag for wiping my brass and a nylon brush for quick clean of the neck inside that would be awesome. Overall my brass looks fairly clean since I am mainly shooting a bolt gun and not a gas autoloader (that brass comes out filthy). Just want to understand whether there are any consequences to this more expedient method.
Click to expand...

Yes you can just wipe them down.
 
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#43
Gustav7 said:
I don't think so. I only tumble my AR brass. My 6.5cm brass has yet to need to be cleaned, plus they do get tumbled after sizing so they end up getting cleaned there. I tumble my pistol brass maybe once every 2-3 firings.

Personally I would pass on the tumbler now. Especially if you're only reloading 6.5cm. If you pick up another caliber later, then maybe, but its an expense you can forgo now and get it later for not much.

I would take the money from the tumbler and find a good deal on a Chargemaster Lite. The only issue there is you'll need electric to run it. A balance beam scale will work just as well...but its quite slow. To effectively make a balance scale faster, you'll want a powder measure to throw the main charge, but just shy of your goal charge, then a small trickler to finish it off. By that time you're not far from the price of a Chargemaster Lite. I waited until there was a sale and got one from Natchez for $200 new.

I'll reply to your PM now and we can continue this conversation there. Keep reading and asking questions on here though.
Click to expand...

Sounds like i can pass on tumbler for time bieng. Chargemaster seems like a good idea for sure, you are not the only one who has told me that a good scale is critical for loading match grade ammo so makes a lot of sense!
 
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#44
eugevita said:
Sounds like i can pass on tumbler for time bieng. Chargemaster seems like a good idea for sure, you are not the only one who has told me that a good scale is critical for loading match grade ammo so makes a lot of sense!
Click to expand...

A good balance scale will do the same thing, I just find them slower to use and I personally like using the chargemaster. Its not that big, you can program it, change powders quickly, the scale is accurate to 0.1gr consistently. I've had my Chargemaster 1500 for 9 years and Its always worked well for my needs.
 
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#45
Well looks like the hide is in full swing to help a new member.

That is awsome.
And a mentor @Gustav7 offer.

You will not find that type of help elseware to this standard.

Keep us up on the journey to sub moa by your own hand.
 
#47
eugevita said:
Greetings Hide!

So I am interested in potentially getting into reloading for my precision rifles (mainly my b14 hmr 6.5 but also maybe my 308 700). I have around 800 cases of once fired hornady 6.5CM brass that I have collected and would love to be able to load it up and long term save money on ammo. I will also soon have some once fired FGMM 308 brass after my new batch arrives.

Here are my main considerations and limiting factors:

1. I have absolutely no reloading experience other than youtube videos and talking to fellow shooters who reload. Whatever setup I get needs to be fairly simple so that I dont get overwhelmed. I imagine reloading is not rocket science but I really lack experience in this realm...

2. Due to my current job in the military I am averaging 1 move per every 1-2 years and am mainly living in apartments and therefore do not have the space for a dedicated basement or garage reloading area/bench. I am of course looking forward to having a gun/reloading room one day : - ) Just not there yet....

Hence my question: Is it possible or even advisable for me to be able to set up a relatively minimalistic/portable single stage reloading setup which would allow me to reload my 6.5 brass and then maybe 308 and some other calibers down the line. The priority would be to have a setup that can easily be packed up, hidden away in the apartment, and moved while allowing me to still load good match grade ammo for my precision rifles. If you have suggestions on kits, etc let me know.

I appreciate your advice and suggestions, while I am a fairly experienced shooter I am completely inexperienced with reloading and hence do not know what I do or do not need to accomplish my end state. Thank you
Click to expand...

Here is portable reloading setup I made to develop long range loads out in the desert. It works really well. Sometimes I set it up on the coffee table in the living room!
reloading008.jpeg
 
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#49
I have a lee turret press bolted to a 2 foot long 2x4. I built it to clamp on my portable shooting bench at the range. I have used it more at home in the family room than the range.
 
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