Advice on best way to set this up please

[AB630]

I have experience with AR’s/M4’s from 20 years on active duty, but I’m not an “operator” or a sniper. However, I’ve always been interested in long range shooting and hunting. I shot my first deer with a Savage .308 last year at 38 years old, so I’m behind most of you in knowledge.

I recently got a Bergara B-14 HMR in 6.5 creed. I have a Vortex 5-25 X 56 EBR-7C MRAD I’d like to put on it. I believe the rings I need are 34mm. I’m a little confused about the best way to mount it. Can someone recommend the parts I’d need? I believe it uses Remington 700 compatible parts. Also, on the break in, is it true that I need to clean the bore after each shot for the first 20 rounds or so? I’m pretty much completely new to bolt action rifles and these kinds of scopes. I’d appreciate any advice you guys can offer. Ultimately I’d like to be able to shoot pigs at around 500 yards or less, and at the range I’d like to work up to 1k.

 

[MDT_Josh]

Morning!

I am going to be a biased, but accurate answer

You do indeed need 34 mm rings (most likely in a medium or high height) but you will also need a scope base to adapt your rifle to fit the rings. Luckily, as you stated in your post, the B14R uses Remington 700 SA compatible parts, so you can get away with something like the MDT 20 MOA Scope base and either Premier 34 mm Medium Rings or Elite 34 mm Medium Rings (as a suggestion of course )

If you have more questions, feel free to contract me or our customer service team ([email protected] or 1-604-393-0800)!

- Josh

 

[FisherT&C]

I would get a 20 MOA picatinny base; make sure the base has a recoil shoulder. The gun doesn't have much recoil but the weight of the scope can loosen the base. That's why I recommend the recoil shoulder on the base. Weaver makes a decent base with a shoulder, they're are plenty others also. Just don't gamble on a no name Amazon knock off. The Vortex Precision rings are good and the Sig rings are decent as well. I highly recommend the American Rifle Company M-Brace rings or mount; they're all I use now. You could also get a flat base and an M-Brace mount with 20 MOA machined into it.
As far as barrel break in and cleaning goes you won't hurt anything if you clean between the first 10 rounds with Hoppes ; it probably won't make a difference but it won't hurt. It will take between 150-200 rounds to speed up the barrel, then it's actually "broken in". A deep clean after 200 and then occasionally after that, every 100 to 200 rounds. Alot of people go way overboard on cleaning. For a routine cleaning, a few patches soaked with Hoppes and down and back a few times with a bronze brush until you feel the crude break loose, then run dry patches will do. You want to leave some copper in the barrel or you'll have to foul it back up to get to settle back into a groove. After a routine cleaning it should only take one or two fouling shots to settle back in. I shoot at least 50 rounds before cleaning a fresh barrel, if I had time I would shoot 200 before cleaning but normally I can't spend that much time at the range. Hope that helps.

 

[KnowNothing256]

+1 for ARC rings; with that 56mm objective, I’d play it safe and go High but Med rings will probably be fine as well. I have a Warne Mountain Tech 20MOA base and have had no issues with it, and I’m unfamiliar with bases for a Bergara that come with a recoil “shoulder,” where would that shoulder engage the receiver? I know bases such as the Area 419 rails for the CZ 457 have a lug, but I don’t see where on the B14 action such a lug would contact without interfering with the bolt handle.

 

[nightman89]

Well, I doubt you'll get much better advice than what has already been offered. I have a fairly similar setup (B-14 in 308, Viper 5-25 with EBR-7C MRAD scope), and I am confident you will be happy with your setup. All you need is a good base and rings. @MDT_Josh can fact check me, but you will most likely need at least a 1.0" ring height (which is generally a medium ring) for the 56mm objective to clear the barrel, especially if you decide to use a 20moa base.

 

[KnowNothing256]

Here's two pairs of High 34mm ARC rings available in the PX, not sure there are any Mediums up for sale rn:

SOLD - FS: ARC M10 34mm high rings (Price Drop)

For sale: 1 2 set of ARC M10 34mm High rings. Used in very good condition. Asking for $140 each shipped, PP F&F. Add 3% for regular PP. 1 set sold, 1 left.

www.snipershide.com

 

[FisherT&C]

+1 for ARC rings; with that 56mm objective, I’d play it safe and go High but Med rings will probably be fine as well. I have a Warne Mountain Tech 20MOA base and have had no issues with it, and I’m unfamiliar with bases for a Bergara that come with a recoil “shoulder,” where would that shoulder engage the receiver? I know bases such as the Area 419 rails for the CZ 457 have a lug, but I don’t see where on the B14 action such a lug would contact without interfering with the bolt handle.

The shoulder typically engages the receiver on the front ring; just behind the front base screws. The only base I ever had come loose didn't have a shoulder,it was on a 6.5 CM during a match no less. Remington 700 action with the base screws opened up to 8-40 with loctite.
The scope was a Nightforce NXS; so not too heavy. That's just my personal experience so I pass it on.

 

[KnowNothing256]

The shoulder typically engages the receiver on the front ring; just behind the front base screws. The only base I ever had come loose didn't have a shoulder,it was on a 6.5 CM during a match no less. Remington 700 action with the base screws opened up to 8-40 with loctite.
The scope was a Nightforce NXS; so not too heavy. That's just my personal experience so I pass it on.

Gotcha. I haven't had issues with the Warne bases, but small sample set. That shoulder won't help with recoil since the receiver will be moving rearwards away from it, but perhaps it yields benefits in other ways. Thanks for explaining, new tech to me!

 

[AB630]

I would get a 20 MOA picatinny base; make sure the base has a recoil shoulder. The gun doesn't have much recoil but the weight of the scope can loosen the base. That's why I recommend the recoil shoulder on the base. Weaver makes a decent base with a shoulder, they're are plenty others also. Just don't gamble on a no name Amazon knock off. The Vortex Precision rings are good and the Sig rings are decent as well. I highly recommend the American Rifle Company M-Brace rings or mount; they're all I use now. You could also get a flat base and an M-Brace mount with 20 MOA machined into it.
As far as barrel break in and cleaning goes you won't hurt anything if you clean between the first 10 rounds with Hoppes ; it probably won't make a difference but it won't hurt. It will take between 150-200 rounds to speed up the barrel, then it's actually "broken in". A deep clean after 200 and then occasionally after that, every 100 to 200 rounds. Alot of people go way overboard on cleaning. For a routine cleaning, a few patches soaked with Hoppes and down and back a few times with a bronze brush until you feel the crude break loose, then run dry patches will do. You want to leave some copper in the barrel or you'll have to foul it back up to get to settle back into a groove. After a routine cleaning it should only take one or two fouling shots to settle back in. I shoot at least 50 rounds before cleaning a fresh barrel, if I had time I would shoot 200 before cleaning but normally I can't spend that much time at the range. Hope that helps.

What’s the difference/advantage/disadvantage of using a rail and connecting the rings to that vice getting rings that connect straight to the rifle? If I do get a rail; two piece or one? I’m trying to buy once cry once with this.

 

[AB630]

Morning!

I am going to be a biased, but accurate answer

You do indeed need 34 mm rings (most likely in a medium or high height) but you will also need a scope base to adapt your rifle to fit the rings. Luckily, as you stated in your post, the B14R uses Remington 700 SA compatible parts, so you can get away with something like the MDT 20 MOA Scope base and either Premier 34 mm Medium Rings or Elite 34 mm Medium Rings (as a suggestion of course )

If you have more questions, feel free to contract me or our customer service team ([email protected] or 1-604-393-0800)!

- Josh

Since you took the time to reply I’ll check those out. My experience in this arena is pretty close to zero, and I’ve got nobody who lives around me (that I know) that is in to this. What’s the difference between the premier and elite besides the level on the elite?

 

[KnowNothing256]

What’s the difference/advantage/disadvantage of using a rail and connecting the rings to that vice getting rings that connect straight to the rifle? If I do get a rail; two piece or one? I’m trying to buy once cry once with this.

Rail plus rings provides better ring options, plus more flexibility in ring location on the scope (more flexibility in eye relief and attachment points, mostly). One-piece rail is better typically, less likely to be misaligned. High-quality 2-piece bases attached to a quality receiver is not generally an issue, but will also lead to less location flexibility.

 

[AB630]

Well, I doubt you'll get much better advice than what has already been offered. I have a fairly similar setup (B-14 in 308, Viper 5-25 with EBR-7C MRAD scope), and I am confident you will be happy with your setup. All you need is a good base and rings. @MDT_Josh can fact check me, but you will most likely need at least a 1.0" ring height (which is generally a medium ring) for the 56mm objective to clear the barrel, especially if you decide to use a 20moa base.

I saw 20 and 40 MOA bases when I was browsing, any disadvantage to just going 40?

 

[spife7980]

I saw 20 and 40 MOA bases when I was browsing, any disadvantage to just going 40?

Not unless the scope you chose isn’t capable of that much travel.

0moa mount means you use half your scope travel to go up and then the other half is to go down. With 100 moa of scope elevation travel that’s 50 up and 50 down. A 40 moa mount means it’s now 90 up and 10 down.
The caveat is that you’ll never be perfectly centered for zeroing it so you may actually run out of room to get a 100 yards zero. Or you may end up the other way and be perfectly fine. You don’t know until you find out if you don’t have any prior knowledge on that set up on your gun.

I’d just get a 20 moa scope base.

 

[FisherT&C]

What’s the difference/advantage/disadvantage of using a rail and connecting the rings to that vice getting rings that connect straight to the rifle? If I do get a rail; two piece or one? I’m trying to buy once cry once with this.

I like the one piece because it's plain simpler; such as moving the scope to another rifle. Technically, a one piece is straighter but a small advantage in the grand scheme of things. One piece base for sure, a ton more adjustability; such as setting eye relief. A one piece base improves rigidity, so less stress on the scope body. As far a one piece rings with machined in MOA, they are ideal for gas guns and bolt actions with flat bases. For example if someone bought a Tikka Tac A1 which comes with a quality flat base, I would recommend buying a one piece with MOA because the scope needs to be high on a Tac A1. The down side weight but for a hog gun that's probably not an issue. Furthermore, the ARC M-Braces have only 2 screws, super easy to mount the scope; no zig zag pattern tightening.
I know these are picky little things but I'm done with over complicated.

 

[KnowNothing256]

I saw 20 and 40 MOA bases when I was browsing, any disadvantage to just going 40?

40 is for extended long range, most often seen nowadays in rimfire. The disadvantage to using a base with too much cant, as @spife7980 alludes to, can be issues zeroing, but more than that you’ll be outside the mechanical “center” of the optic, which leads to an inferior sight picture. For a 6.5CM out to 1000 yards, 20 MOA is perfect.

 

[AB630]

The shoulder typically engages the receiver on the front ring; just behind the front base screws. The only base I ever had come loose didn't have a shoulder,it was on a 6.5 CM during a match no less. Remington 700 action with the base screws opened up to 8-40 with loctite.
The scope was a Nightforce NXS; so not too heavy. That's just my personal experience so I pass it on.

I didn’t even know a “shoulder” was a thing to look for with the base, I appreciate you passing that on. Thank you

 

[AB630]

Not unless the scope you chose isn’t capable of that much travel.

0moa mount means you use half your scope travel to go up and then the other half is to go down. With 100 moa of scope elevation travel that’s 50 up and 50 down. A 40 moa mount means it’s now 90 up and 10 down.
The caveat is that you’ll never be perfectly centered for zeroing it so you may actually run out of room to get a 100 yards zero. Or you may end up the other way and be perfectly fine. You don’t know until you find out if you don’t have any prior knowledge on that set up on your gun.

I’d just get a 20 moa scope base.

Gotcha. 20 MOA scope base w/shoulder. As for the rings, I’ve gathered that I want to get at least 1” for this scope. On Vortex’s page for example, they offer 34mm rings in 1”, 1.10” and two more sizes up from there. I was thinking about 1.10 with whatever brand I end up going with, just to play it safe. Do you see any downside with that? Thanks for taking the time to help me navigate this part.

 

[spife7980]

Gotcha. 20 MOA scope base w/shoulder. As for the rings, I’ve gathered that I want to get at least 1” for this scope. On Vortex’s page for example, they offer 34mm rings in 1”, 1.10” and two more sizes up from there. I was thinking about 1.10 with whatever brand I end up going with, just to play it safe. Do you see any downside with that? Thanks for taking the time to help me navigate this part.

That’s about what I do myself, you’ll be fine with em

 

[AB630]

I’m assuming my scope is fine for what I intend to use it for, I do wish I found this place before I bought it. I got a solid deal when compared to MSRP. If it doesn’t work out I’ll have an excuse to run by the wife for another one later.

 

[spife7980]

I’m assuming my scope is fine for what I intend to use it for, I do wish I found this place before I bought it. I got a solid deal when compared to MSRP. If it doesn’t work out I’ll have an excuse to run by the wife for another one later.

Lots of people use and like it, you’ll be good

 

[Average guy]

Since you took the time to reply I’ll check those out. My experience in this arena is pretty close to zero, and I’ve got nobody who lives around me (that I know) that is in to this. What’s the difference between the premier and elite besides the level on the elite?

MDT makes solid stuff, and they are a solid company that supports the hide.

 

[slm9s]

Burris XTR Signature rings with the plastic inserts allow you to increase/ decrease cant to maximize your scopes usable travel and WILL NOT leave ring marks.
The 1 price base doesn't have to cost $150. Talley/Leupold/Weaver all make reliable rails.
Unless you want Gucci parts, then have at it!

 

[stevieb92]

The easy button is a Seekins Precision 700 short action 20 moa scope base and the Vortex precision matched 34mm rings in 1.0 inch height. My girlfriend recently purchased the Bergara HMR Pro version of the same rifle and mounted the Strike Eagle scope on her rifle with these parts. Note the HMR Pro has 8-40 scope base screws, the standard HMR has 6-48 scope base screws. It worked out great. Here's a video where I helped guide her on how to install everything. She has shot this rifle to 1k yards with no issues.

 

[Kadams1563]

Where are you located? I recommend finding the nearest PRS or belly style match. Go and meet some of the people there. Just tell them you are completely new and wanting to get in to it. You will meet people to help you in person and provide you with everything you need.

BEWARE long range is expensive! AR’s are cheap and all of mine cost over $2500 lol. So be prepared and DO NOT shoot all the customs you are offered until your ready to drop some $$$. Good luck

 

[308pirate]

I didn’t even know a “shoulder” was a thing to look for with the base, I appreciate you passing that on. Thank you

It is absolutely not necessary. For every guy who said his base moved and and a recoil shoulder/boss is necessary there are hundreds with the same setup or one that recoils even more who have never had anything come loose.

I've been shooting mostly 308 Winchester rifles over the last 25 years, and over the last 10 or so with scopes every bit as large as yours and I have never had a single screw in the mounting system loosen in the slightest.

 

[308pirate]

I’m assuming my scope is fine for what I intend to use it for, I do wish I found this place before I bought it. I got a solid deal when compared to MSRP. If it doesn’t work out I’ll have an excuse to run by the wife for another one later.

Just get your shit rigged up and go shoot. Stop worrying about whether you bought the wrong thing or not. Right now you don't even know what you don't know and most of what you need to learn will not be learned by reading.

 

[Shoots 700's]

I like the MDT and ARC options. Buy the best you can afford, I know too many that cheap out and chase zero all the time.

 

[MDT_Josh]

Since you took the time to reply I’ll check those out. My experience in this arena is pretty close to zero, and I’ve got nobody who lives around me (that I know) that is in to this. What’s the difference between the premier and elite besides the level on the elite?

No worries and here are the main differences between our rings:

• Premier
  • 4 top screws (narrower clamps and therefore less contact between the ring and scope)
  • 2 cross bolts and a side clamp (per ring, which is okay, but you have 4 fasteners to attach the ring to the rail)
  • Matched caps for concentricity (so no need to lap your rings)!
  • Multiple heights available and bore sizes
• Elite
  • 6 top screws per cap (wider, more solid clamps with T25 fasteners)
  • 1 machined cross bolt and nut per ring that allows you to torque them to 65 in-lb. AND acts a secondary recoil lug
  • Precision line bored caps and ring bases for guaranteed concentricity to your scope
  • "Zero-Gap" feature that makes leveling your scope painless and quick
  • Level included in most heights/diameters
  • Scope ring accessory caps as an optional extra if you want to add a level, RDS or other accessory on top of your rings
  • 35 mm options available (not that it matters in this context)

Finally, I also just want to mention that a lot of our bases also have built in shoulders that overhang the front of most ejection ports to also act as a back-up lug too

- Josh

 

[AB630]

No worries and here are the main differences between our rings:

• Premier
  • 4 top screws (narrower clamps and therefore less contact between the ring and scope)
  • 2 cross bolts and a side clamp (per ring, which is okay, but you have 4 fasteners to attach the ring to the rail)
  • Matched caps for concentricity (so no need to lap your rings)!
  • Multiple heights available and bore sizes
• Elite
  • 6 top screws per cap (wider, more solid clamps with T25 fasteners)
  • 1 machined cross bolt and nut per ring that allows you to torque them to 65 in-lb. AND acts a secondary recoil lug
  • Precision line bored caps and ring bases for guaranteed concentricity to your scope
  • "Zero-Gap" feature that makes leveling your scope painless and quick
  • Level included in most heights/diameters
  • Scope ring accessory caps as an optional extra if you want to add a level, RDS or other accessory on top of your rings
  • 35 mm options available (not that it matters in this context)

Finally, I also just want to mention that a lot of our bases also have built in shoulders that overhang the front of most ejection ports to also act as a back-up lug too

- Josh

Thanks for taking the time to explain all of that. Ultimately I’d like to “buy once cry once” and get the Elite rings if I go that route. It’s a little more than I budgeted for this, I’ll have to sell it to the wife. This entire board has been fantastic, I’ve had more questions clearly answered here than any of the places I looked for info before I found this one.

 

[AB630]

Just get your shit rigged up and go shoot. Stop worrying about whether you bought the wrong thing or not. Right now you don't even know what you don't know and most of what you need to learn will not be learned by reading.

That’s fair, I’ve had the rifle and scope for about 3 weeks or so and other than buying ammo I’m not any closer to the range. It does suck seeing it sit there.

 

[AB630]

Where are you located? I recommend finding the nearest PRS or belly style match. Go and meet some of the people there. Just tell them you are completely new and wanting to get in to it. You will meet people to help you in person and provide you with everything you need.

BEWARE long range is expensive! AR’s are cheap and all of mine cost over $2500 lol. So be prepared and DO NOT shoot all the customs you are offered until your ready to drop some $$$. Good luck

I just got stationed in the Tampa, Florida area. A little while back I bought a Daniel Defense AR in 5.56 with a XPS2 EOTech and G33 magnifier. It’s fun, but long range is something I think I enjoy more. When I shot my very first deer in Texas a little while back I was absolutely certain that bolt guns for hunting and targets is where I wanted to be.

 

[AB630]

The easy button is a Seekins Precision 700 short action 20 moa scope base and the Vortex precision matched 34mm rings in 1.0 inch height. My girlfriend recently purchased the Bergara HMR Pro version of the same rifle and mounted the Strike Eagle scope on her rifle with these parts. Note the HMR Pro has 8-40 scope base screws, the standard HMR has 6-48 scope base screws. It worked out great. Here's a video where I helped guide her on how to install everything. She has shot this rifle to 1k yards with no issues.

Thank you, I’ll check out the video. Did she buy her rifle in 6.5 creed as well? I went back and forth between .308 and 6.5 for a couple of weeks, ultimately everything I read seemed to indicate 6.5 was the better long range cartridge, but that they’d both work for what I’m trying to do.

 

[stevieb92]

Thank you, I’ll check out the video. Did she buy her rifle in 6.5 creed as well? I went back and forth between .308 and 6.5 for a couple of weeks, ultimately everything I read seemed to indicate 6.5 was the better long range cartridge, but that they’d both work for what I’m trying to do.

Yes, she bought the 6.5 creedmoor in the heavy barrel variant of the HMR Pro. Bergara makes two 6.5 creedmoor HMR Pro rifles, one with the standard contour and one with a slightly heavier profile. Having the heavy barrel option was nice. I started shooting a Rem 700 in 308 before 6.5 creedmoor was out as a SAAMI cartridge and since then I have several 6.5 creedmoor rifles as well as a 6 creedmoor. For long range target shooting, I grab one of my creedmoor rifles before my 308. Thanks for checking out the video!

 

[308pirate]

That’s fair, I’ve had the rifle and scope for about 3 weeks or so and other than buying ammo I’m not any closer to the range. It does suck seeing it sit there.

I understand believe me.