Advice, to build or buy?

[Medic0422]

Hello everyone, I could use a little info/advice. I’m looking to either build or buy a dream rifle to me. What I’ve been looking at so far has been one of the MPA rifles in 6.5 creed. I also was looking at the seekins havoc bravo or the hit.
My first question is, can I get more for my money if I build? I’m guessing the answer is yes, Just not sure where to start. I’ve never pieced together a bolt gun before. Here is what I’m looking at. A budget of $3-3500 for rifle. I’m no pro and I don’t know everything or even half about long range shooting. I have shot for years starting with a howa, then moved on to a larue. And I have shot some distance, out to 900ish yards. I’d like to do this regularly and learn much more.
Also I’d like to keep some of the weight down. This won’t be a hunting rig but for a day hunt id love to be able to take it. I just don’t want a 25lb rifle. So any info on building and what I’d need or if buying for me would be a better option please let me know. I’m all ears.
also, this rifle will be mostly for fun. I’d love to do a competition at some point but I’m gonna be real say this is just what I want for banging steel and enjoying myself. Lots of places to shoot where I live. Thank you

 

[Whiplash6.5]

I would build. Go with a good quality action, I’m in the process of building a 300 prc on a Bighorn action, with a shouldered prefit from straight jacket. All in on the rifle and bipod I’m in $2900.

 

[Medic0422]

I would build. Go with a good quality action, I’m in the process of building a 300 prc on a Bighorn action, with a shouldered prefit from straight jacket. All in on the rifle and bipod I’m in $2900.

thanks for the info. I’ll take a look at bighorn actions. I think my problem is I’m just not sure how it all works. For instance, let’s say I buy an action with a rem 700 footprint. Can I buy a chassis of some sort and just drop it in? Or do I need to get ahold of my local gunsmith to have this done? From what I’ve seen it looks like you can just drop the barreled action in and your good to go. Unless you want it bedded.

 

[IndianaRem5r]

Yes, definitely go full custom build with your budget. Yes, you can easily install a barreled action in a chassis yourself. The most important component of a rifle for accuracy is the barrel. Shop for your barrel first. Determine what you want. For me, that meant a Bartlein 1:8 twist 5r in 6.5 with heavy palma profile. Shop for an action. Try to get some hands-on with different actions. Next, find a good gunsmith that specializes in precision rifle builds. Get his advice and a quote to install your barrel to action of your choice. The smith can probably get the barrel and action at a reduced price, so not a bad idea to have him source everything.

However, if you want to go with a complete rifle, ready to go...look at the Badrock built by Defiance. You can see it here: https://badrockrifles.com/

 

[Medic0422]

Indiana, thanks for the info. I’ve actually been looking at barrels and actions all night while at work. Mating the barrel to the action was some of the info I was looking for as far as do I need a gunsmith. I’ve have to look around my area I’m sure we have a few good gunsmiths here. The contour and twist of your barrel is the same I’m looking for. Does anyone use an mpa built rifle? Curtis axiom action with the tolerances they advertise seems pretty good just pricey.
funny you mentioned badrock. Seeing that rifle is what got me hooked on all this.
I would definitely much rather build my own I think if I could find the parts I need. I just have no experience with building anything but an Ar. So one more question, barrel plus action vs. barreled action is there any advantage to either or, or is it all based on just finding the barrel you’d like?

 

[WillHugh]

Start cruising the PX here, you'd be surprised what you can find lightly used with a little patience. I decided about a month ago that I wanted to build up a 6.5 on a custom action and was toying with this same question. Since then I've snagged a used Manners t5a, Stiller 6.5 barreled action with 300 rounds through it, and a Schmidt and Bender PMii 5-25, and I'm still well under 4K total for the package. Yeah, the colors don't match so I'm going to have to get creative with the rustoleum, lol, but from a value standpoint it's hard to beat buying used. Plus you'll free up some cash for other members who are looking for something new.

If you wanted an all in one, your budget would also likely let you pick up a used AI AT.

- Will

 

[Medic0422]

Thanks will, I’ve been searching the px for a few weeks trying to decide on building or buying. I’ve seen a lot of stuff. One thing I should have mentioned is I’m a lefty. I’ve always shot right handed rifles as a lefty but now I want a true left handed rifle. The other thing was the intimidation factor of building and not knowing where to start. I’m sure I’ll score something from the px at some point.

 

[199 398 500 A]

Not sure building is more bang for your buck but gives you more options. IMO, best bang for your buck is trued 700 or semi-custom tikkas. However, that's well below your price range. If this is going to be the dream rifle, then go custom and make it 1000% what you want. I think the budget allows for it.

 

[99106]

Medic, I just went through this with my daughter wanting a long range gun and at the end of the day the parameters of what you want / plan to do with it tend to drive the solution. It's also a personal choice, of what's going to make you feel good or have the least regret. You stated you're looking for your dream gun, what does that mean? Can you get more for your money if you build? That depends how well can you shoot and how often are you going to shoot this gun? You don't have to dig deep to find stories of crappy fly by night gunsmiths who take premium components and build a turd. There are a lot of good smiths out there too, but point is just because it's a custom doesn't mean it's a better gun nor a better value. At the end of the day, I'm currently in the camp of buy a barreled action or build my own and save some of the labor costs for a full build. You can definitely get what you want for 3500 going that route.

Here's a brain dump of the internal logic that's driven me to my position and some other things to consider. This isn't all inclusive, but it covers a lot of the discussion we had trying to find her a "dream gun" for long range shooting. If you buy a commercial gun and replace everything on it but the action, are you going to look back and go, I should have just went custom. Will you have some mental hangup that it just won't shoot as good as I expected it to shoot no matter what I try? Do you like tinkering and swapping parts like on a hot rod? Maybe the appeal of of buying and upgrading parts gives you a sense of satisfaction.

Would you buy a gun, shoot it until you know you've wrung every last ounce of accuracy out of it and the gun is the limiting factor not you as a shooter? Along the way maybe you learn what you do or don't like, make a list and then find your dream gun. If you aren't there yet, then getting a decent off the shelf may fit the bill, but the wrong choice or even a lemon might drive you to madness. Then again starting in the middle of the road, can save time and get you behind the trigger shooting where you could continue to save to join the crowd of the non-poors. Maybe buy once cry once is the way to go. Cost is expected to be relative to accuracy, but at some point you get into the diminishing returns argument, either because you as a shooter suck at fundamental or an additional 8k isn't going to bear out a .10" group. Bottom line, what drives you / is going to make you the most happy? In the daughter's case she it was buy commercial and get to shooting and then upgrade down the road.

Since you covered the plan to shoot PRS, plink and hunt, you will want a magazine fed gun that has 10rd mags. If you buy commercial does it use AI or AR patterned mags or is it a proprietary mag that's hard as hell to find. Barrels are expendable and with a 6.5 the common theory is accuracy drops off around 2500-3000 rounds. Here again, what is acceptable accuracy to you. Groups may open up or you may have to deal with the random flyer. Is that a big concern? Will you make it to 2500rds? Depending on how much you shoot you may want to be able to change your own barrels vs paying someone else to do it. If that's the case you'd want an action that pre-fit barrels are readily available or you will have to suffer in the line of the gunsmith waiting for a barrel change and not to mention paying the labor to have it done.

Are you looking for a traditional stock or chassis, what about adjustability? Depending on stock vs chassis like the MPA may be had cheaper than building out a Manners with all of the Gucci parts. Plus you usually don't have to worry about the additional bottom metal cost with a chassis. Some traditional stocks come with internal aluminum blocks which you can get away without bedding, but then again to squeeze every ounce of accuracy out of it you may want to bed it. A non internal block aluminum stock you will want to bed to get the best accuracy potential out of it. If you're talking chassis stocks you can probably get away without bedding. Where are you hunting? Aluminum chassis stocks get mighty cold at 7 degrees F, which may drive you to looking at a something like a JAE or Foundation. Then we circle back around to the weight question, what's acceptable because a Foundation made out of Micarta is going to be heavier that a McMillan or Manners Fiberglass. Counter that with I'll just throw on a carbon barrel. Those are almost if not double the cost of most steel barrels. Will a pound at 12 vs 13 lbs make a huge difference to you based on your style of hunting?

As for the 700 footprint action, the key terminology would be drop-in or requires inletting. Most all chassis solutions are going to be drop in with no to little modification required. Even with drop-in, sometimes variables like the trigger you choose may require some minor alteration but this is rare. Most chassis stocks are going to be mag fed but traditional, you need to think about the bottom metal you want mag inletted and mag based bottom metal.

At the end of the day, it's a barrel, action, trigger and stock. If you want the easy button you can buy off the shelf or have a gunsmith build. It's not unreasonable to do this yourself purchasing the right components either as a full or partial build. It just comes down to how confident are you in your technical abilities. I agree with the advice above about seek out and fondle if not shoot the various action to see what appeals to you (60 degree bolt, 3 lug 2 lug, 2 stage vs single stage trigger). One other thing to consider if you go to a gunsmith, you will probably have to get in line behind all of the other builds they have before you so how long are you willing to wait. If you like the build some may have prebuilt guns but you don't usually get to change much on them. That's where a barreled action is the way to go, where you choose your stock and trigger and put them together yourself.

 

[Medic0422]

Medic, I just went through this with my daughter wanting a long range gun and at the end of the day the parameters of what you want / plan to do with it tend to drive the solution. It's also a personal choice, of what's going to make you feel good or have the least regret. You stated you're looking for your dream gun, what does that mean? Can you get more for your money if you build? That depends how well can you shoot and how often are you going to shoot this gun? You don't have to dig deep to find stories of crappy fly by night gunsmiths who take premium components and build a turd. There are a lot of good smiths out there too, but point is just because it's a custom doesn't mean it's a better gun nor a better value. At the end of the day, I'm currently in the camp of buy a barreled action or build my own and save some of the labor costs for a full build. You can definitely get what you want for 3500 going that route.

Here's a brain dump of the internal logic that's driven me to my position and some other things to consider. This isn't all inclusive, but it covers a lot of the discussion we had trying to find her a "dream gun" for long range shooting. If you buy a commercial gun and replace everything on it but the action, are you going to look back and go, I should have just went custom. Will you have some mental hangup that it just won't shoot as good as I expected it to shoot no matter what I try? Do you like tinkering and swapping parts like on a hot rod? Maybe the appeal of of buying and upgrading parts gives you a sense of satisfaction.

Would you buy a gun, shoot it until you know you've wrung every last ounce of accuracy out of it and the gun is the limiting factor not you as a shooter? Along the way maybe you learn what you do or don't like, make a list and then find your dream gun. If you aren't there yet, then getting a decent off the shelf may fit the bill, but the wrong choice or even a lemon might drive you to madness. Then again starting in the middle of the road, can save time and get you behind the trigger shooting where you could continue to save to join the crowd of the non-poors. Maybe buy once cry once is the way to go. Cost is expected to be relative to accuracy, but at some point you get into the diminishing returns argument, either because you as a shooter suck at fundamental or an additional 8k isn't going to bear out a .10" group. Bottom line, what drives you / is going to make you the most happy? In the daughter's case she it was buy commercial and get to shooting and then upgrade down the road.

Since you covered the plan to shoot PRS, plink and hunt, you will want a magazine fed gun that has 10rd mags. If you buy commercial does it use AI or AR patterned mags or is it a proprietary mag that's hard as hell to find. Barrels are expendable and with a 6.5 the common theory is accuracy drops off around 2500-3000 rounds. Here again, what is acceptable accuracy to you. Groups may open up or you may have to deal with the random flyer. Is that a big concern? Will you make it to 2500rds? Depending on how much you shoot you may want to be able to change your own barrels vs paying someone else to do it. If that's the case you'd want an action that pre-fit barrels are readily available or you will have to suffer in the line of the gunsmith waiting for a barrel change and not to mention paying the labor to have it done.

Are you looking for a traditional stock or chassis, what about adjustability? Depending on stock vs chassis like the MPA may be had cheaper than building out a Manners with all of the Gucci parts. Plus you usually don't have to worry about the additional bottom metal cost with a chassis. Some traditional stocks come with internal aluminum blocks which you can get away without bedding, but then again to squeeze every ounce of accuracy out of it you may want to bed it. A non internal block aluminum stock you will want to bed to get the best accuracy potential out of it. If you're talking chassis stocks you can probably get away without bedding. Where are you hunting? Aluminum chassis stocks get mighty cold at 7 degrees F, which may drive you to looking at a something like a JAE or Foundation. Then we circle back around to the weight question, what's acceptable because a Foundation made out of Micarta is going to be heavier that a McMillan or Manners Fiberglass. Counter that with I'll just throw on a carbon barrel. Those are almost if not double the cost of most steel barrels. Will a pound at 12 vs 13 lbs make a huge difference to you based on your style of hunting?

As for the 700 footprint action, the key terminology would be drop-in or requires inletting. Most all chassis solutions are going to be drop in with no to little modification required. Even with drop-in, sometimes variables like the trigger you choose may require some minor alteration but this is rare. Most chassis stocks are going to be mag fed but traditional, you need to think about the bottom metal you want mag inletted and mag based bottom metal.

At the end of the day, it's a barrel, action, trigger and stock. If you want the easy button you can buy off the shelf or have a gunsmith build. It's not unreasonable to do this yourself purchasing the right components either as a full or partial build. It just comes down to how confident are you in your technical abilities. I agree with the advice above about seek out and fondle if not shoot the various action to see what appeals to you (60 degree bolt, 3 lug 2 lug, 2 stage vs single stage trigger). One other thing to consider if you go to a gunsmith, you will probably have to get in line behind all of the other builds they have before you so how long are you willing to wait. If you like the build some may have prebuilt guns but you don't usually get to change much on them. That's where a barreled action is the way to go, where you choose your stock and trigger and put them together yourself.

So much good info here I’m not sure where to even start. So I’ve been researching and thinking about this for about a year. I now have the cash to get started on my build so I figured I’d join. What I mean by “dream” rifle is dream to me. Ie. left handed, quality parts, color, etc etc... as far as my shooting goes, I’m able to pull .5 minute groups with the skills I have so far.

with that being said, I don’t think I could or would know the difference between let’s say a curtis action and a devient action. I do know that I’d like A half minute rifle since I know my skill is up to that task. As far as barrels go I know this is super important. And I have research some of the big names for contour, length, etc. but as long as it’s able to pull a half minute group it will work for me.

Now I’m also just getting into hand loading so I’ll be shooting factory match till my skills grow with my rifle.

I am a tinkerer but I don’t want to always be upgrading. I do know that. this is where I’m stuck. I’m just not sure what I need to build my rifle. So please correct me if I’m wrong but this is what I’m assuming so far. 1. A barreled action or a action and a barrel with a smith. 2 a trigger set. 3. A chassis or stock, in my case a chassis.

Is this what I’m basically looking at to build my rifle or am I missing something? Obviously accessories not included. This rifle will be used for fun mostly. I will take it hunting for the occasional day trip but I am an archery hunter. To give you an idea I’ve used a rifle to hunt once in the last 4 years.

If I’m correct on those pieces that I need I will definitely go that route. I’d rather buy a barreled action then find a barrel first simply because I don’t have a favorite brand and I won’t need to wait on a smith.

I would like a lighter weight chassis, left handed of course, a flat face trigger, .5 min accuracy possible, fluted bolt, in a med/heavy contour. 22 inch in 6.5 creed. And thank you guys for all your help. I’m not rich by any means but I do have a good job that allows me to invest in equipment that will make me happy for years to come. So if I can stay below 3.5k or even 3 I’ll be happy. Then I’ll start looking for glass.

 

[Medic0422]

One other thing I’d like to add. I would like to be able to change barrels myself. I shoot about 2x a month approx 20-40 rounds.

 

[IndianaRem5r]

Bighorn TL3 might be your action based on your requirements. Lead times can be longish however. You can get these in barreled actions or do the barrel install yourself with a pre-fit barrel and required tools.

 

[Medic0422]

Bighorn TL3 might be your action based on your requirements. Lead times can be longish however. You can get these in barreled actions or do the barrel install yourself with a pre-fit barrel and required tools.

Thanks Indiana, I was actually just looking at the tl3 and the Origen. Learned a few things about barrel attachment. Thanks for your help.

 

[Guns&WhiteWater]

Hello everyone, I could use a little info/advice. I’m looking to either build or buy a dream rifle to me. What I’ve been looking at so far has been one of the MPA rifles in 6.5 creed. I also was looking at the seekins havoc bravo or the hit.
My first question is, can I get more for my money if I build? I’m guessing the answer is yes, Just not sure where to start. I’ve never pieced together a bolt gun before. Here is what I’m looking at. A budget of $3-3500 for rifle. I’m no pro and I don’t know everything or even half about long range shooting. I have shot for years starting with a howa, then moved on to a larue. And I have shot some distance, out to 900ish yards. I’d like to do this regularly and learn much more.
Also I’d like to keep some of the weight down. This won’t be a hunting rig but for a day hunt id love to be able to take it. I just don’t want a 25lb rifle. So any info on building and what I’d need or if buying for me would be a better option please let me know. I’m all ears.
also, this rifle will be mostly for fun. I’d love to do a competition at some point but I’m gonna be real say this is just what I want for banging steel and enjoying myself. Lots of places to shoot where I live. Thank you

I finally decided to build up a rifle from scratch a couple of years ago, after spending years just messing around upgrading factory rifles. I learned more doing that than one rifle build than I ever did tinkering with upgrades on existing factory rifles. Snipers Hide was a huge help in this endeavor. Also, finding a solid gunsmith in my area was a big plus. I went with a TL3, MDT ESS, Trigger Tech, S&B PMII, ect, all top shelf components. I have about the same in my rifle as your budget, minus the scope. Wish I would have done this a long time ago. Just don't kid yourself, once you build one you will soon start thinking of another rifle that you can build even better the second time around, or one that is targeted for another purpose altogether.

To answer your question about more for your money, that is subjective, but you will have more pride of ownership after going custom, which usually leads to more enjoyment when shooting, and that is what it's all about.

 

[The D]

If you like to build things, tinker, and figure out problems; build it. You’ll get so much more for your money

If you don’t like to tinker, or don’t feel like tinkering with a dream gun; buy it. It’s comforting to know that all you need to do is just shoot the damned thing

 

[338dude]

Hello everyone, I could use a little info/advice. I’m looking to either build or buy a dream rifle to me. What I’ve been looking at so far has been one of the MPA rifles in 6.5 creed. I also was looking at the seekins havoc bravo or the hit.
My first question is, can I get more for my money if I build? I’m guessing the answer is yes, Just not sure where to start. I’ve never pieced together a bolt gun before. Here is what I’m looking at. A budget of $3-3500 for rifle. I’m no pro and I don’t know everything or even half about long range shooting. I have shot for years starting with a howa, then moved on to a larue. And I have shot some distance, out to 900ish yards. I’d like to do this regularly and learn much more.
Also I’d like to keep some of the weight down. This won’t be a hunting rig but for a day hunt id love to be able to take it. I just don’t want a 25lb rifle. So any info on building and what I’d need or if buying for me would be a better option please let me know. I’m all ears.
also, this rifle will be mostly for fun. I’d love to do a competition at some point but I’m gonna be real say this is just what I want for banging steel and enjoying myself. Lots of places to shoot where I live. Thank you

You should be able to do a very nice custom build with that budget that is the way I would go

 

[King_beardsly]

I’ve built two rifles up from bare actions and both have been shooters for sure, one is a Origin and the other is a TL3. The origin was my budget custom build and I think it was just shy of 2k but got my toes wet with PRS, the TL3 was my I want a full on comp build that topped out at 3k before glass and add one

 

[ThePretzel]

Just a note, if you have an American Rifle Company (Nucleus, Mausingfield, Archimedes) action, an Impact Precision, a Bighorn (TL3 or Origin) action, Curtis Custom action, Lone Peak action, or a Terminus action you can order a shouldered pre-fit barrel that doesn't require a gunsmith to install. Just buy a vice and an action wrench (~$150 for the both of them) and torque it down to spec, because the headspace will fit correctly. No barrel nuts or chamber gauges to fuss with, just grease the threads and screw it on tight.

 

[TheBoctor]

Honestly, the most cost effective way to get what you're looking for may be to buy a used custom gun that someone is liquidating. Barrels are consumable and you can get a new one spun up for $5-600. Cruise the classifieds and find one that appeals to you and that way, for the expensive stuff that doesn't really wear out (chassis/stock, action, trigger) you get a little discount. Be ready to move fast though.

Just my $.02

 

[MaximusDecimusMeidius]

For a beginner, if your goal is to have a competition rifle for prs/ nrl / local precision rifle field type matches, think it’s going to be hard to beat buying one of the many options from the companies out there that offer a rifle based on production class price limits if that’s still a thing and lead times aren’t good long. Haven’t competed in a year so I don’t know what the current situation is but a custom action with custom barrel and solid stock for under $2500 where all you have to do is get a solid optic mounted, a sling, and a game changer bag, practice and get dope, there’s certainly something to be said for just getting it in ready to go and focusing on your skills and practicing more so than fiddle dicking around trying to build a rifle when you’re first starting out.

Then once you have a few matches under your belt, you’ll know if you’ve been bitten by the bug or not and you’ll decide what you want to do with equipment going forward.

 

[MaximusDecimusMeidius]

Honestly, the most cost effective way to get what you're looking for may be to buy a used custom gun that someone is liquidating. Barrels are consumable and you can get a new one spun up for $5-600. Cruise the classifieds and find one that appeals to you and that way, for the expensive stuff that doesn't really wear out (chassis/stock, action, trigger) you get a little discount. Be ready to move fast though.

Just my $.02

And, this is a better route if you find something you like at a better price than a factory production class option. Some good deals on here for sure but you have to act fast if it’s a solid price.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Savage makes a good rifle.

I've been shooting them since the mid-1990's and their reputation as an out-of-box-accurate rifle has been borne out by my experiences in Club, Regional, and National competition. They are not as inexpensive as they once were; but compared to much of what you'll find in the Upper Tier or all-out Custom offerings, they hold their own. In competitions where skill is the denominator, they are effective. In competitions where money is the denominator, they get you into the pack, and your skills will get you further; far enough to be where you're actually ready to spend the bigger bucks and not be wasting them.

Do they fail; yes, when pushed past their limits. Those limits are designed for people who don't treat their gear as unbreakable and then hang their lives on that gear. There are better guns for that; just bring money. If you treat them like a hammer, they can break; but so can hammers, too. But for the price of a Savage, you get what you pay for; a rifle that can get you past all the teething pains of competition without costing you as much as the match winners are paying.

Accuracy is like speed, how much can you afford?

It's hard to look at the Savage offerings and not find something that will serve your needs, unless those needs are so expensive that they price themselves right clear out beyond what any factory can afford to sell at factory prices. Their array of selections is broad and deep; and their upper tier competition rifles are capable of putting winning skills onto the podium.

Team Savage has been impressive.

Review the link above. It's well enough designed to find you something worth considering.

When I'm ready to buy a rifle, I carefully define my needs and set reasonable, reachable goals. I look at Savage first; usually, I find what I need, and the rifle proves itself for me at the range.

I would buy Savage AR's, too, but they're so much fun to build that I build my own instead. BTW, AR's can be accurate and reliable, too. They can deliver that followup faster; and there are times and places where that's really worth having.

Greg

 

[Medic0422]

I finally decided to build up a rifle from scratch a couple of years ago, after spending years just messing around upgrading factory rifles. I learned more doing that than one rifle build than I ever did tinkering with upgrades on existing factory rifles. Snipers Hide was a huge help in this endeavor. Also, finding a solid gunsmith in my area was a big plus. I went with a TL3, MDT ESS, Trigger Tech, S&B PMII, ect, all top shelf components. I have about the same in my rifle as your budget, minus the scope. Wish I would have done this a long time ago. Just don't kid yourself, once you build one you will soon start thinking of another rifle that you can build even better the second time around, or one that is targeted for another purpose altogether.

To answer your question about more for your money, that is subjective, but you will have more pride of ownership after going custom, which usually leads to more enjoyment when shooting, and that is what it's all about.

Sounds like an awesome build. I was looking at all those parts. Hard to decide between the mdt and mpa chassis. I’m a lefty so I like them both.

You’re also right about kidding myself about wanting to do another. I told myself I was only gonna build one AR too. Well I think I’m on my 4th.

I guess what I mean by more for my money is the value to me. I suppose since I’ve never built a bolt gun I can’t quite understand the difference between a bought package and a built package. But I get what your saying and I think you’re absolutely correct. The enjoyment I will have out of my own rifle that I put together will be much more than if I just bought a sub MOA rifle.

 

[Medic0422]

I’ve built two rifles up from bare actions and both have been shooters for sure, one is a Origin and the other is a TL3. The origin was my budget custom build and I think it was just shy of 2k but got my toes wet with PRS, the TL3 was my I want a full on comp build that topped out at 3k before glass and add one

View attachment 7354098View attachment 7354099

Those are some beautiful rifles man. I have decided I’m going to build. Simply for the satisfaction of knowing I put it together. I’m looking at the tl3 and the origin. Along with a mdt or mpa chassis and trigger tech diamond. All in left hand. I have felt a few custom/semi customs actions before but can you tell me if there is a noticeable difference between the tl3 and the origin?

 

[Medic0422]

Just a note, if you have an American Rifle Company (Nucleus, Mausingfield, Archimedes) action, an Impact Precision, a Bighorn (TL3 or Origin) action, Curtis Custom action, Lone Peak action, or a Terminus action you can order a shouldered pre-fit barrel that doesn't require a gunsmith to install. Just buy a vice and an action wrench (~$150 for the both of them) and torque it down to spec, because the headspace will fit correctly. No barrel nuts or chamber gauges to fuss with, just grease the threads and screw it on tight.

pretzel, thanks for this. I learned this last night while searching barrels but I didn’t have a list of the actions that I could use prefits with. So thank you for that. Really helps.

 

[Medic0422]

For a beginner, if your goal is to have a competition rifle for prs/ nrl / local precision rifle field type matches, think it’s going to be hard to beat buying one of the many options from the companies out there that offer a rifle based on production class price limits if that’s still a thing and lead times aren’t good long. Haven’t competed in a year so I don’t know what the current situation is but a custom action with custom barrel and solid stock for under $2500 where all you have to do is get a solid optic mounted, a sling, and a game changer bag, practice and get dope, there’s certainly something to be said for just getting it in ready to go and focusing on your skills and practicing more so than fiddle dicking around trying to build a rifle when you’re first starting out.

Then once you have a few matches under your belt, you’ll know if you’ve been bitten by the bug or not and you’ll decide what you want to do with equipment going forward.

Thanks for you’re info I appreciate it. This rifle build will mostly be for my own satisfaction and enjoyment. I have regularly shot out to 900yrds with a 308 and 800 with a 223. I would be lying if I said I’m going to hit the matches. Now, as a side note, Having a rifle that I put work into and love shooting And feel so good about might push me In the direction of trying out a match at some point. Which I would love to do. My passion is just not there with what I own currently.

 

[Medic0422]

Savage makes a good rifle.

I've been shooting them since the mid-1990's and their reputation as an out-of-box-accurate rifle has been borne out by my experiences in Club, Regional, and National competition. They are not as inexpensive as they once were; but compared to much of what you'll find in the Upper Tier or all-out Custom offerings, they hold their own. In competitions where skill is the denominator, they are effective. In competitions where money is the denominator, they get you into the pack, and your skills will get you further; far enough to be where you're actually ready to spend the bigger bucks and not be wasting them.

Do they fail; yes, when pushed past their limits. Those limits are designed for people who don't treat their gear as unbreakable and then hang their lives on that gear. There are better guns for that; just bring money. If you treat them like a hammer, they can break; but so can hammers, too. But for the price of a Savage, you get what you pay for; a rifle that can get you past all the teething pains of competition without costing you as much as the match winners are paying.

Accuracy is like speed, how much can you afford?

It's hard to look at the Savage offerings and not find something that will serve your needs, unless those needs are so expensive that they price themselves right clear out beyond what any factory can afford to sell at factory prices. Their array of selections is broad and deep; and their upper tier competition rifles are capable of putting winning skills onto the podium.

Team Savage has been impressive.

Review the link above. It's well enough designed to find you something worth considering.

When I'm ready to buy a rifle, I carefully define my needs and set reasonable, reachable goals. I look at Savage first; usually, I find what I need, and the rifle proves itself for me at the range.

I would buy Savage AR's, too, but they're so much fun to build that I build my own instead. BTW, AR's can be accurate and reliable, too. They can deliver that followup faster; and there are times and places where that's really worth having.

Greg

Thanks Greg. I’ll take that into consideration. I’ll check out the link also. I do love AR’s I own two larues. Great shooting rifles. I just want to get back to shooting a bolt gun for now. But they are great options. I’ve shot a few savages over the years and I do like them.

 

[Medic0422]

So i think I’ve narrowed it down. Big horn TL3 or origin. Not sure on barrel brand yet but I do know I want 6.5 creedmoor in 22in length. I’m also torn on twist. 1-8 or 1-7.5? I have a friend who shoots a 6.5 creedmore and he says 1-7.5. I do know I want a chassis. Not sure on the brand though. I’m thinking MDT or MPA in left hand. As for trigger I’d like a left hand triggertech diamond with a flat face. Any recommendations? I’d love to get this build going ASAP.

 

[Steel head]

I’m really enjoying both my builds.
One is a savage and the other is a ARC nucleus.

 

[kriller134]

What's your budget for glass and mount? If you have 3500 for a rifle, but only 500 for a scope, then balance it out for a better optic. If you have a big budget for glass, then go full custom on the rifle. I'm running an origin and like it, but my next build is gonna be a defiance or impact.

 

[Medic0422]

What's your budget for glass and mount? If you have 3500 for a rifle, but only 500 for a scope, then balance it out for a better optic. If you have a big budget for glass, then go full custom on the rifle. I'm running an origin and like it, but my next build is gonna be a defiance or impact.

kriller, my budget for scope and mount is about 2500$. I also qualify for most optic companies mil discounts.

 

[kriller134]

kriller, my budget for scope and mount is about 2500$. I also qualify for most optic companies mil discounts.

Nice man. Before you start buying things, try to find a local match and check out people's rigs. That'll give you a good idea of what works for you and what doesn't.

 

[goosed]

So i think I’ve narrowed it down. Big horn TL3 or origin. Not sure on barrel brand yet but I do know I want 6.5 creedmoor in 22in length. I’m also torn on twist. 1-8 or 1-7.5? I have a friend who shoots a 6.5 creedmore and he says 1-7.5. I do know I want a chassis. Not sure on the brand though. I’m thinking MDT or MPA in left hand. As for trigger I’d like a left hand triggertech diamond with a flat face. Any recommendations? I’d love to get this build going ASAP.

Lot's of solid choices, imo...

TL3 is slightly smoother than the Origin. If money is no object get the TL3

With 6.5mmm go 1:8 twist. It 's the most versatile twist rate... unless you're already committed to only running certain outside the fray bullets

TT is a great trigger if you like super light triggers.

Brand of barrel is mainly personal preference, cause there is very little performance differences. If you want it ASAP just go with whatever you find in stock.

 

[Medic0422]

Lot's of solid choices, imo...

TL3 is slightly smoother than the Origin. If money is no object get the TL3

With 6.5mmm go 1:8 twist. It 's the most versatile twist rate... unless you're already committed to only running certain outside the fray bullets

TT is a great trigger if you like super light triggers.

Brand of barrel is mainly personal preference, cause there is very little performance differences. If you want it ASAP just go with whatever you find in stock.

Thank you. Sounds good I imagine I’ll be shooting the 140’s mostly. My friend uses his beast to hunt so I think that’s where the 1:7.5 came in to shoot the heavier bullets. I don’t rifle hunt much so I’m not to concerned about that.

I’ve felt a blueprinted rem 700, a Curtis axiom, a supe’d up Savage, and a deviant. I have not felt a big horn. I think I can save some money with the origin because I don’t know for my first build if I’d really know a difference between the tl3 and the Origin?

 

[goosed]

Thank you. Sounds good I imagine I’ll be shooting the 140’s mostly. My friend uses his beast to hunt so I think that’s where the 1:7.5 came in to shoot the heavier bullets. I don’t rifle hunt much so I’m not to concerned about that.

I’ve felt a blueprinted rem 700, a Curtis axiom, a supe’d up Savage, and a deviant. I have not felt a big horn. I think I can save some money with the origin because I don’t know for my first build if I’d really know a difference between the tl3 and the Origin?

Sounds like a plan. Nothing wrong with the Origin

 

[Medic0422]

Sounds like a plan. Nothing wrong with the Origin

there is one thing I’m torn on, that’s the contour. I know I want a med/heavy barrel and ive looked up some charts on the differences. I was thinking heavy Palma vs. med Palma? Anyone have any insight on this? I’d like to save some weight but I don’t need a feather weight barrel for hunting. Something that can be threaded for a suppressor and not weigh 400 lbs. this rifle will mainly be used for hitting steel and paper with the occasional day hunting trip setting up on a ridge and sitting and glassing. Like I stated before I archery hunt and have used a rifle once in the last 4 years.

 

[acudaowner]

I've been drooling over this one for two months or so since frank did a video on it from
https://mannersstocks.com/2020-prs-tcs-tunable-competition-stock/ you would just have to figure out the bullet caliber you want .
sadly I still don't know what it cost yet . but load the weight on when shooting steel or paper and remove it if hunting .

 

[Medic0422]

I've been drooling over this one for two months or so since frank did a video on it from
https://mannersstocks.com/2020-prs-tcs-tunable-competition-stock/ you would just have to figure out the bullet caliber you want .
sadly I still don't know what it cost yet . but load the weight on when shooting steel or paper and remove it if hunting .
View attachment 7354736

Wow had to wipe a bit o drool. 6.5 creed. That thing looks like money

 

[King_beardsly]

Those are some beautiful rifles man. I have decided I’m going to build. Simply for the satisfaction of knowing I put it together. I’m looking at the tl3 and the origin. Along with a mdt or mpa chassis and trigger tech diamond. All in left hand. I have felt a few custom/semi customs actions before but can you tell me if there is a noticeable difference between the tl3 and the origin?

The difference really isn’t huge unless you’re running them side by side and even then it’s more of personal preference thing. The straight bolt handle of the TL3 and the slightly different extraction cam angles lead to almost a softer feel and tiny bit smoother. Now that’s not to say the origin is a slouch by any means, I had the first version and now the revised bolt body both felt good but the new bolts feel almost as good as the TL just a slightly heavier feel but that could be due to a different trigger.

 

[Steel head]

there is one thing I’m torn on, that’s the contour. I know I want a med/heavy barrel and ive looked up some charts on the differences. I was thinking heavy Palma vs. med Palma? Anyone have any insight on this? I’d like to save some weight but I don’t need a feather weight barrel for hunting. Something that can be threaded for a suppressor and not weigh 400 lbs. this rifle will mainly be used for hitting steel and paper with the occasional day hunting trip setting up on a ridge and sitting and glassing. Like I stated before I archery hunt and have used a rifle once in the last 4 years.

Medium Palma and heavy Palma are excellent contour.
I have a heavy Palma on my 7 saum and that rifle is 17.5# with Bipod on it.

 

[goosed]

there is one thing I’m torn on, that’s the contour. I know I want a med/heavy barrel and ive looked up some charts on the differences. I was thinking heavy Palma vs. med Palma? Anyone have any insight on this? I’d like to save some weight but I don’t need a feather weight barrel for hunting. Something that can be threaded for a suppressor and not weigh 400 lbs. this rifle will mainly be used for hitting steel and paper with the occasional day hunting trip setting up on a ridge and sitting and glassing. Like I stated before I archery hunt and have used a rifle once in the last 4 years.

It's easiest to just brake down weights before you start putting it together. Pulling numbers off the top of my head:

6.5lb Heavy palma barrel (might vary slightly depending on barrel maker)
2lb Origin action
.5lb Trigger (guessing)
5lb MPA comp chassis
3lb Optic/rings (guessing)
1lb suppressor (guessing)

18lb rifle... depending on optic and suppressor.

Which is right in line with at @Steel head 's rifle. Which should give you a barrel heavy balance bias. If you're happy with that, awesome. If not adjust where needed.

 

[SandFam3]

Super helpful thread guys! I’m in the process of building up a similar rifle, and everyone’s input is invaluable - thanks!

OP, as to contour I’m leaning medium palma @22in. to cut down on weight, since I plan on using it more as a field rifle as opposed to PRS.

 

[Medic0422]

It's easiest to just brake down weights before you start putting it together. Pulling numbers off the top of my head:

6.5lb Heavy palma barrel (might vary slightly depending on barrel maker)
2lb Origin action
.5lb Trigger (guessing)
5lb MPA comp chassis
3lb Optic/rings (guessing)
1lb suppressor (guessing)

18lb rifle... depending on optic and suppressor.

Which is right in line with at @Steel head 's rifle. Which should give you a barrel heavy balance bias. If you're happy with that, awesome. If not adjust where needed.

Thanks for listing that out. Kinda puts it into perspective. Appreciate it.

 

[Medic0422]

Super helpful thread guys! I’m in the process of building up a similar rifle, and everyone’s input is invaluable - thanks!

OP, as to contour I’m leaning medium palma @22in. to cut down on weight, since I plan on using it more as a field rifle as opposed to PRS.

I think I may look into the med Palma also. Sounds like your build will be for similar use as mine. I’m also looking for 22in.

 

[King_beardsly]

Medium Palma is a pretty great option, I’m running on at 26” and it’s a good middle ground in contours. Granted 26” might be a little long for some stuff but anything in the 22-24 range should be pretty spot on for a 6.5

 

[IndianaRem5r]

I will just say I love my Heavy Palma 6.5 x 47 Bartlein 1:8 5r Barrrel.

 

[iukamedic]

I was in the same boat. Put a deposit on a build of what I wanted because most things I looked at were lacking something or another. Build will be what you want specifically. Factory guns are usually sub moa and my build is supposed to be 1/2 moa. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Stick42]

I just went through this same ordeal. Ended up purchasing the parts I wanted to build a rifle, just waiting on my Origin action to come in which hopefully will be in the next week or two. I'm currently at 7 weeks directly from them.

 

[Medic0422]

I was in the same boat. Put a deposit on a build of what I wanted because most things I looked at were lacking something or another. Build will be what you want specifically. Factory guns are usually sub moa and my build is supposed to be 1/2 moa. Just my 2 cents.

Yea that’s exactly what I’ve found also. There’s always at least one thing I’d like to change. Adding parts in my cart as we speak.

 

[Medic0422]

I just went through this same ordeal. Ended up purchasing the parts I wanted to build a rifle, just waiting on my Origin action to come in which hopefully will be in the next week or two. I'm currently at 7 weeks directly from them.

Stick, I’m also going with the origin action. I’m trying to decide if I want the barreled action or if I just want to throw on a barrel at home. Seems like I could save a couple bucks doing that. Is that the route you’re going? Which barrel are you going with if so?