So I was bored and sitting at home looking at my fixed chassis AT and then the AX stock conversions online and decided to pull some things apart and document it
TLDR: It bolts right on.
So I ordered an AX stock up. I knew these stocks were marketed as "for folding AT only" originally (I read or imagined that from somewhere) and I figured I'd have it milled and make it work somehow.
Turns out all these stocks are the same. Which makes sense from a manufacturing standpoint.
The "conversion" I ordered is just an AX replacement stock. It's identical to the sage green AX stock on my AXMC. And it pretty much bolts right onto a fixed chassis AT, no modifications needed. This means that it may fit on other models if the attachment is the same. Take your skins off and have a look, this post 14 ax stock may fit older AICS, pre-14 AX, AE, etc, I don't know I don't have them to look at, but you can see the attachment point in the pics. If it looks similar it's probably the same.
All being done I am pretty happy with it. As far as value??? Well, I don't regret spending the money on it. It's had to place value on a folding stock. I've never had to fold my stock during a match or stage or anything, which is why I was perfectly content keeping a fixed stock AT after I traded my folder off. But as far as value or cost? $830 bucks ain't cheap, that's a new barrel or a new tikka ctr. But in the same category, KRG gets about the same for their folding stock for a W3 or TRG, and cadex gets around $750 for their folding stock. So, of course I would like it cheaper but I don't think $830 is out of line for the marketplace.
I think if I buy more AIs I'd definitely buy an AT, and then have a choice of +$450 for a left side folder or +$830 for a right side folder I install...
I'd definitely be bemuying fixed ATs and putting the AX stock on for only $380 more than a left side folder.
Issues: the AX stock cheek weld is higher than the AT by roughly 1/2". (See picture)
Length of pull is also about 1/2" shorter at minimum which I like.
Running the Henny 4-16x56 in a spuhr sp-4601 and the AT low rail the cheek weld (luckily) is perfect for me at the lowest setting. That's how I run it, it works for me, but I would say there is a 60+% chance that you will need either a higher mount of the AT high rail. So keep that in mind. (Rough guess from other friends rifles I've used and if their check weld is high or low compared to mine)
Mile high and eurooptic both have these in stock. Mile high said they have sage green skins to match also. As you can see in the pics the original AI green and the sage green definitely do not match, but I don't think they look too bad. Still matches better than an FN scar and their 50 shades of FDE. You will reuse all your original skins (except the buttstock of course)
I'll try to insert pics as I go ( but I am dumb) so here's the play by play.
Tools needed: 3mm Allen, 2.5mm Allen, dead blow hammer, some sort of heating device.
1: remove AT grip and buttstock skins.
2: remove cheek rest so you don't bend it like the idiot taking the pics.
3: remove two 3mm Allen head screws on the top and bottom of stock extension closest to the action.
4: heat the area the screws were removed from with your hearing device. I used my little soldering torch. It did not discolor anything and worked great. Will it discolor your rifle? Probably. I don't know. Try a heat gun or hair dryer. Oxy fuel is overkill.
5: after it's warm just give the buttstock a what off.
6: remove the Devon stuck on the stock extension. Don't use a direct flame for this, I used a little soldering adapter thing. Takes a good amount of heat to loosen it up.
Continued below, can only attach 10 pics.
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