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AI AT fixed to AX folder. Conversion Instructions and pictures
- Thread starter mattwaage1
- Start date
You don’t want advice from me.... I didn’t do anything fancy, it’s like loc-tight but better ??
You don’t want advice from me.... I didn’t do anything fancy, it’s like loc-tight but better ??
You have a point, it's not like I'm going to take it off anytime soon.
I wouldn't worry about it. If you see a ton of excess in the holes you could try to wipe it out with a q-tip prior to installing the screws. But like @MysizeisMAGNUM said above, the epoxy basically acts as a really good thread protector. If you ever did remove it down the road, you'll have to heat it up first and the screws will come right out.
With the help of a couple forum members, who were nice enough to answer some questions, I completed the swap of the AT folder with an AX folder. I'd say anyone with good tinkering skills can perform the upgrade as long as you read the instructions and plan your moves.
The AX stock - beefier than I expected - I thought since it was skeleton it would be a bit lighter. Considering it's all aluminum, I should have known better.
I followed the supplied instructions and dismantled the rifle's skins and removed the trigger. I used my Wagner heat gun on high to loosen the Devcon epoxy taking care not to heat it too much so as to possibly affect the receiver bedding. My plastic mallet and a few whacks to the butt stock and the stock came off.
I made the mistake of removing the retaining screws on the extension so the stock came out and the extension stayed put. I just heated the extension, used a thick screwdriver through the pivot hole and whacked it off with the mallet.
The receiver end where the extension fits.
The inside of the receiver extension showing some of the Devcon and how it flows into the reliefs inside the stock extension. There are also scalloped indents on each corner of the receiver extension where the Devcon flows.
Cleaned up the best I could using the heat gun, a flat edged screwdriver and an exacto knife.
I degreased all the parts, mixed the Devcon and liberally applied it inside the stock extension and on the outside of the receiver extension. I did not worry about the screw or flush cup holes and some of the Devcon flowed into those areas. I used a toothpick to clean the screw holes as they need to be somewhat clean to allow the screws to fully seat and inserted and tightened the screws and the female catch cup. The excess was easy to clean with an alcohol swab. I manged to not get any of the Devcon on me or the rifle.
It will sit for a day to cure and then I'll put the skins back on. In hindsight, I would have rested the rifle barrel down and stock up to allow the Devcon to flow down into the receiver extension. I let it cure as you see which probably had the Devcon settle down into the extension. However, I filled the cavity with enough where it's probably not an issue.
The AX stock - beefier than I expected - I thought since it was skeleton it would be a bit lighter. Considering it's all aluminum, I should have known better.
I followed the supplied instructions and dismantled the rifle's skins and removed the trigger. I used my Wagner heat gun on high to loosen the Devcon epoxy taking care not to heat it too much so as to possibly affect the receiver bedding. My plastic mallet and a few whacks to the butt stock and the stock came off.
I made the mistake of removing the retaining screws on the extension so the stock came out and the extension stayed put. I just heated the extension, used a thick screwdriver through the pivot hole and whacked it off with the mallet.
The receiver end where the extension fits.
The inside of the receiver extension showing some of the Devcon and how it flows into the reliefs inside the stock extension. There are also scalloped indents on each corner of the receiver extension where the Devcon flows.
Cleaned up the best I could using the heat gun, a flat edged screwdriver and an exacto knife.
I degreased all the parts, mixed the Devcon and liberally applied it inside the stock extension and on the outside of the receiver extension. I did not worry about the screw or flush cup holes and some of the Devcon flowed into those areas. I used a toothpick to clean the screw holes as they need to be somewhat clean to allow the screws to fully seat and inserted and tightened the screws and the female catch cup. The excess was easy to clean with an alcohol swab. I manged to not get any of the Devcon on me or the rifle.
It will sit for a day to cure and then I'll put the skins back on. In hindsight, I would have rested the rifle barrel down and stock up to allow the Devcon to flow down into the receiver extension. I let it cure as you see which probably had the Devcon settle down into the extension. However, I filled the cavity with enough where it's probably not an issue.
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I confirmed with Euro Optic that AI won't be offering a LH version of the AX buttstock (even though they make one for the factory LH AX).
All you need to do is de-bond the buttstock rear of the hinge, flip it 180°, and re-bond it. That will flip the hinge mechanism, and the front tube section that gets bonded to the chassis can remain untouched since it's symmetric L-to-R. The only real concern would be discoloring the cerakote if you used a propane torch rather than a heat gun.
This will be my plan if I ever buy another LH AT to put in my chassis, I would buy an AX buttstock and flip the hinge.
Hey guys, the new AX "Low" cheek piece I designed is available now through Anarchy Outdoors!
It's perfect for the AT/AX buttstock swap, and nets you a cheek piece that has an identical contour to the factory version, but goes 0.375" lower. That means you won't have to buy new rings or a new $400 Spuhr mount in order to get a perfect sight picture with your new buttstock. This is about a 1 minute install; remove the factory cheek piece with the single M6 screw, then install the new metal bracket and cheek piece with 3 screws and you're good to go.
I have a couple tweaks to make on the AX-AICS version, but that will be available soon as well. The AICS version is slightly different than the factory AX buttstock to allow for more bolt knob clearance, so the cheek piece bracket needs to be modified to go as low as the AX version. So if you have a post-14 AX-AICS chassis with a R700 or Vudoo barreled action, hold tight for that specific version so you can ditch the tall rings.
The thumb rests are in stock and available too if you're thinking about picking one of those up. Also hoping to have the AT bipod mounts done SOON!
Thanks,
Sam
It's perfect for the AT/AX buttstock swap, and nets you a cheek piece that has an identical contour to the factory version, but goes 0.375" lower. That means you won't have to buy new rings or a new $400 Spuhr mount in order to get a perfect sight picture with your new buttstock. This is about a 1 minute install; remove the factory cheek piece with the single M6 screw, then install the new metal bracket and cheek piece with 3 screws and you're good to go.
I have a couple tweaks to make on the AX-AICS version, but that will be available soon as well. The AICS version is slightly different than the factory AX buttstock to allow for more bolt knob clearance, so the cheek piece bracket needs to be modified to go as low as the AX version. So if you have a post-14 AX-AICS chassis with a R700 or Vudoo barreled action, hold tight for that specific version so you can ditch the tall rings.
The thumb rests are in stock and available too if you're thinking about picking one of those up. Also hoping to have the AT bipod mounts done SOON!
Thanks,
Sam
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Here’s another pic with the bolt back to show how low the new cheek piece is - it’s just about the same height as the top of the firing pin body. That should help give you a visual with the factory AX cheek piece as to how much lower it will be.
Pull the skins and post some pics of the area in front of the hinge. It may be the same.
Samb300 .....dose the cheek piece have some side to side adjustment like the factory one dose?
Yes it does, though not quite as much. It’s about +/- 0.100”, where the factory one is +/- 0.200”.
Sam
Many thanks to the OP and all who contributed to this thread. I bought a fixed stock AT because of the price difference ( and would do it again.) But ran across a folding buttstock here at a good price and picked it up. This thread made removal and installation a lot easier. Thanks! One warning, I almost bought JB Weld to put it back together. That would be a mistake, as it has a higher temperature resistance/tensile strength and would be difficult to take apart again. Use the correct Devcon Plastic Steel.
Steve Ferguson
Steve Ferguson
Glad everyone is getting good use out of this.
Has anyone had apart any legacy models to see what all these buttstocks may swap to?
Such as older AW 1.0, 1.5 2.0 AEs AXs etc?
Has anyone had apart any legacy models to see what all these buttstocks may swap to?
Such as older AW 1.0, 1.5 2.0 AEs AXs etc?
I've been watching this thread a while from interest in a chassis swap and I've got an 08 manufacture 2.0 AW I can pull out for measurements and pics. I do believe it's the style with the receiver side of the tang held in place with a pin.
Did anyone confirm that debonding the tang from the AX stock and using the pinned receiver one would work?
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Thanks for the measurements and the look mike!
I'd say that looks like it should fit, I'll try to get the calipers on mine tomorrow.
Lol. Been waiting for someone to buy the AT folder before hand. Otherwise, I'd just keep it rollin with the AT stock.
Before and After in my conversion. I used the OP's post as a guide...probably would've been clueless 
Pale brown AX conversion does not match IMO so I went with the black contrast.
Pale brown AX conversion does not match IMO so I went with the black contrast.
Has anybody done a DIY conversion for a pre-14 AX? If so how difficult was it to remove the pins?
Did you read the thread I linked to literally the post before yours?
No, it didn’t mention AX rifles. It mentioned AE rifles.Did you read the thread I linked to literally the post before yours?
They have the same buttstock to chassis interface.No, it didn’t mention AX rifles. It mentioned AE rifles.
That's good to know. Wouldn't have been easier to politely say that than try to be a smartass?
I think what you meant to say was "Thanks! I'm glad someone like @6brshooter did all the up-front work and documentation so I didn't have to spend the time and money figuring it out myself, and thanks for sharing that link to the thread I couldn't find after diligently searching on SH."
In that case, you're welcome
I think what you meant to say was "Thanks! I'm glad someone like @6brshooter did all the up-front work and documentation so I didn't have to spend the time and money figuring it out myself, and thanks for sharing that link to the thread I couldn't find after diligently searching on SH."
In that case, you're welcome
It really would kill you not to be a smartass, wouldn't it?
Would it kill you to be appreciative for being spoon fed the answer you're looking for?
Also, this is the internet and you're not my dad, so I'll be a smartass if I want to
Also, this is the internet and you're not my dad, so I'll be a smartass if I want to
One can be appreciative of information on the Hide without being talked down on by somebody intentionally being a smartass. Yep, you got a right to be a smartass. I got a right to call you out on it. So have a nice life. I'm sure you're a blast at parties.Would it kill you to be appreciative for being spoon fed the answer you're looking for?
Also, this is the internet and you're not my dad, so I'll be a smartass if I want to
I don’t have an exact weight but I’m pretty sure the AX stock is heavier.
This doesn’t include the hinge, and I don’t have the thumbhole skins so maybe add 1-2oz to the AT.
