AI style mags.

I was using AI mags, always worked well. Have 1 Accurate mag with a plus 2 extension that works great. Just bought an MDT 12 rounder that I look forward to trying out. I've also ran the magpul polymer AICS style and as long as theres no pressure on the front of it it feeds well too
 
I run the Magpul AICS mags. I was running metal mags (couple different brands) but these are way more smooth, and don't scratch brass.
If you're AICS or other metal mags are scratching brass they just need tuned up.
Just sayin!
 
Your right, I could spend some time cleaning them up. Or I could leave them on the shelf where they have been since I got my Pmags lol
I also like the $37 price tag.


LOL! I can't tell you how many times I've heard that at the range ("Fuck that, I'm not paying $80 for a magazine!").

Then at the match I often hear "WTF? My mag malfunctioned! I think (fill in the blank with an excuse)."

"What kind of mags you running?"

"PMags, why?"

"That's why you're having mag malfunctions" (as the RO shakes his head and writes "DNF" on the stage score).


I have never understood how someone can spend well over a $1000 (minimum) on a rifle, and bitch about an $80 mag that lasts forever.

Penny wise, and pound foolish.
 
Someone school me on what exactly the binder plate is for? Is it for shorter rounds?
Its a spacer that keeps your round back in the mag so that they dont catch under the feed ramp of your action. MDT has some good images.


Binder plate keeping the rounds back
7046394



Binder plate removed and now the round can catch under the action.
7046395
 
  • Like
Reactions: MDT_Josh and 4dds
I thought the binder plate was also a reinforcement for the tack welds on the front of the mag(?). Essentially, it keeps the stress of a full mag (which wants to bulge the mag), distributed across the tack welded front.

Just going off memory here, so could be completely off base...
 
I thought the binder plate was also a reinforcement for the tack welds on the front of the mag(?). Essentially, it keeps the stress of a full mag (which wants to bulge the mag), distributed across the tack welded front.

Just going off memory here, so could be completely off base...
Im sure there is some merit to that but in all the situations Ive seen the topic raised in its mainly for action and cartridge length compatibility.
If you want to run the rounds as long as possible you need that physical space available to you by deleting the binder plate. However if you do that then you need to make sure that they are able to rise up into your action by choosing an action with a mag well large enough to accommodate the length or to notch the action in order to make it so.
 
I thought the binder plate was also a reinforcement for the tack welds on the front of the mag(?). Essentially, it keeps the stress of a full mag (which wants to bulge the mag), distributed across the tack welded front.

Just going off memory here, so could be completely off base...

The original AI magazines built for the AI Chassis System (AICS) utilized a binder plate for two reasons (as far as I know); to give the weld a better adhesion during the manufacturing process (the name of the process escapes me now) and to strengthen the magazine. Whilst they could have tried to weld the seam without the binder plate, or possibly tried to spot weld it, the binder plate was added for ease of manufacture and the ammo of the time was M118 which would always be loaded well within the maximum OAL of the mag.

Now that we're loading longer and have sped up alternate manufacturing processes, there is no real need for the binder plate, except to keep with the legacy design, and to not hang up the tips of rounds on certain actions.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MarinePMI