Re: Alaska Costal Brown bear hunt,
When are you going to come to your sinces and move back home?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 45.308</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: c1steve</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: kraigWY</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> It looks like I might have to shoot up to 300 yards</div></div>
My Model 70 Win 375 H&H shoots pretty dern good at 300 yards. It hits a bit harder at 300 yards then the 7 Rem Mag can.
In the Sears Mall in Anchorage they use to have a display of a large coastal brownie who took several shots from a 375, chewed on the AF Col. for a while before his partner killed it with another 375. (The Col. lived to marry Miss Alaska), don't remember his name.
I would think the 375 gives you a better chance to anchor the bear then the 7 RM, hopefully keeping you from having to go into the alders after it. </div></div>
I remember that bear, it was huge. However I am sure they were both using 30-06. One hunter hit the bear several times, with accurate shots. The bear came after him, started to tear him up, and the second hunter finished off the bear.
Hunter two then left all his ammo with his friend, and hiked out to get help. Positive they were using 30-06, and they were on Kodiak. </div></div>
Two AF guys bear hunting SE Tustumena lake, a large brownie was shot and wounded, then ran to alders and ended up hill. The hunters went after a large wounded brownie into the alders, the bear charged mauling the shooter. During the mauling, his friend tried to shoot Mr Brownie but hit his partner in the foot where the bullet traveled up the fib bone splintering bones, through the knee and out the thigh/hip. Two more shots with #3 from the friend finally felled ole booboo. A very surreal life or death ordeal in a boat crossing Tustumena in a low pressure system of nasty Alaska. As told to me or as I remember it from 75 and the melon is fast becoming mush.
Bear was originally displayed in the Fed Bld down town and I thought it still was but I was only in there once is last 25 years, I was never aware it was in Sears and last time I was there, do not remember seeing it. Yes, a very large brownie. 375HH. This story has faded away.
As far as price, my partner's fee
http://www.alaska-d-l-outfitters.com/ is $18000 for a brownie. I know one guide is/was charging $26000. This is not all expense fee. Please do not forgot to toke guide, 2nd guide, camp wiper.
I can not imagine a 300 yard shot on a brownie, good way for trouble but every guide is different. Inside 200 and the closer to 100 the better the odds.
Wood and blued rifles have been used hunting in Alaska longer than SS synth have been around. My main rifle I used was a Wby MK V 340Wby with 250gr Part 3000+fps with a Leup FXII 3x since the mid 70s up to when I quit and finally sold it a few years ago. My MK V's hunted from boats, in the snow, rain and never a spot of rust or corrosion on any of my Mk Vs, as long as I checked zero before the hunt and wiped them down with CLP I was good to go. The only thing a synth SS rifle has is, they take Alaska hunting abuse better but then again, rifle wood and rubbed bluing with character says a lot too.
I would use what ever is the lightest rifle and I shot best, caliber is not a factor. Its hard to explain just how much rifle carrying one does on a hunt in Alaska, its not open flat terrain and coastal bear terrain can be real tuff, light means right. I would get somewhere around 100 yards and 7mm with 175gr Part will do the trick if you hit the engine room and explode the boiler, bears have a very low heart beat, a couple a minute and are hard to go lights out with one shot as the brain can tell the body to live awhile without the engine motoring. A wounded booboo is not good but if you hit the boiler and he does not go down, you did your part and luck of the beast but you will still get the look down and a word or two, a bad shot and he does not go down, the look will say it all and you will get a good string of harsh words. Once a wounded bear roars at the air, rips the ground flinging rocks grass roots trees with a fury you have to witness to beleive, soil your drawers and you will know why guides like honest first shot hits, caliber not included. A 7mm 175gr hit in the engine room will please everyone more than a 375 or 416 flinch. If you can shoot a boomer well, then by all means it is the best but be honest and if you put your guide and your life in jeopardy....
The brain is very a small area with a super thick skull, the engine room is the only shot to take.
A full mount is useless unless you have the room....a 10+ footer on a pedestal can reach 14+ feet, most homes cannot handle unless you have a trophy room so this is why standing mounts are in buildings, a paw mount is better. Even a paw mount can reach 6+ feet. Rugs are coolio.
Your guide like all to include me, will inform you of what they beleive works best. I sent a kit list and was very strict about it. I was specific on what I wanted. Weather is the main driving reason. Its their paper on the line for you to stay safe and do well. HH is very popular with hunters and works well. I am not a fan of G-tex after testing it in Ak for years. My concern is flash off and once this occurs, its very hard to get core warmth back without external heat like back home sitting by the fire. When I brought this up to the Gore suits at a all expense paid seminar, I never got an answer. Dampness from HH is far safer and comfortable than flash off from G-tex which is dangerous, I have first hand knowledge just how chilled the core can get and just how life threatening it can be. G-tex does not leak but once the outer fabric gets saturated or dirty, the film does not transfer vapor out so the user believes it is leaking. Ideally, wash in G wax, throw in a drier for a few minutes before leaving.
Even hunting by boat, get in as best shape as possible, this will allow you to stay warmer, heal better, sleep better, eat better and enjoy your adventure. Riding a bike with high resistance will simulate the short up hill strokes of hiking with a pack better than anything else except hiking with a pack up hill, flat ground training is OK but really does not prep the body for hunting Alaska. Sit-ups, lots of sit-ups will help give core strength for carrying a pack. SLOD (slow long over distance running or bike) training will help prepare the mind.
Mental toughness goes a long way in Alaska and is the most important but most overlooked. When things go south, laugh and enjoy it, do not blow up and throw things and let off a string of words when your boot lace breaks, think I am kidding. When you are cold, wet and shivering, legs hurt, feet sore, pack is rubbing you raw, enjoy it because it does suck.
While I cannot speak for your guide, if you have any questions I will do my best to help. I guided for years and have years of kit testing. Most of it works but some work better than others. </div></div>
