Gunsmithing Aluma Hyde II with Magpul FDE

[Colohunter]

I just finished painting a couple magazines with Brownell's Aluma Hyde II Coyote. I think it is a pretty good match, figured I would post a picture in case anyone else was looking for something similar.

There are some more pictures and a walk through here.

I've since painted the rest of the rifle, so I'll add some pictures of it once it cures and I get it back together.

 

[Cheech]

Re: Aluma Hyde II with Magpul FDE

Looks good. Can't wait to see the compleated rifle.

 

[Colohunter]

Re: Aluma Hyde II with Magpul FDE

I'm looking forward to it as well, the mags look good!

 

[smschulz]

Re: Aluma Hyde II with Magpul FDE

Nice color match.

 

[Colohunter]

Re: Aluma Hyde II with Magpul FDE

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: smschulz</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Nice color match. </div></div>

Yep, if you're looking for an application that doesn't require a sprayer, it isn't a bad choice.

 

[BenY 2013]

Re: Aluma Hyde II with Magpul FDE

I think I am going to use this on my rifle. FDE on all the metal and OD Green on the stock! Thank you for posting this.

 

[Colohunter]

Re: Aluma Hyde II with Magpul FDE

That sounds like a good combo, post a picture when you do it!

 

[BenY 2013]

Re: Aluma Hyde II with Magpul FDE

Will do!

 

[Crime_Inc]

I just finished painting a couple magazines with Brownell's Aluma Hyde II Coyote. I think it is a pretty good match, figured I would post a picture in case anyone else was looking for something similar.

There are some more pictures and a walk through here.

I've since painted the rest of the rifle, so I'll add some pictures of it once it cures and I get it back together.

Did you oven cure it? and if so what time and temp I'm finding mixed times and temps.

 

[Strykervet]

No need to heat it.

I did a whole rifle with this, well, the parts that weren't already tan. I subscribe to the FN color concept --just use whatever is laying around. But yeah, it does seem to match the Magpul stuff pretty close FWIW, and to a lesser degree Cerakote FDE and Surefire tan. And it's tough as shit, it's not the same thing as spray paint.

It's not as good as Cerakote, it IS better than Gunkote though, and it doesn't require any special shit to apply. However, as with any paint job, it's only gonna look as good and last as long as the effort you put into prep work.

I'd be sure to do it when it's not too cold, not wet and I'd heat the can up in a bowl of HOT water first (don't blow yourself up doing bubba shit like putting it on direct heat or in the nuke box). It really helps a lot. If you do this and the environment isn't ideal then it can leave a textured surface (which worked out stellar for a KAC buttstock but wasn't intended and would have fucked up any other job) or it won't cure right.

It also gets REALLY tacky for a few hours before it dries. I'd hang the parts so you can get 360 unless you're cool with waiting a week or two to finish the job. Then when you've got the two or three coats you wanted hang the parts and don't touch 'em for a day or so.

 

[kl3309]

Acetone will take it right off no matter how long it's been cured. Also, Tetra Gun grease will get into it and soften it.

 

[Crime_Inc]

I appreciate it Ill be trying it on a cheap AR Handguard and then trying it on the upper and lower, I've seen some say it takes 2 weeks to cure is there any truth to that?

 

[Trigger Monkey]

Yes, it takes a while to cure if you're only letting it air dry, you can bake it to speed the process up though. I tried Aluma Hyde II once and it's one reason I moved on and used stuff like Duracoat that can air dry and be ready to reassemble in about 24 hours. You can get DC in aerosol cans or use Preval sprayers that you can find at any good hardware store to apply it.

 

[Carlos Danger]

 

[sheepdog697]

That color match is on point.

 

[lariat]

I use Alumahyde very frequently. Works great. It’s not cerakote but if it Woodlawn within the bounds of your application it’s predictable and convenient. I always use lawyer thinner to clean the nozzle when done and blow it out with compressed air.

This is probably too bubba redneck for many, but I use my car as a solar oven to cure small parts whenever possible. Works great and fast. The heat up is not as fast as an oven but it gets damn hot. Dashboard cooking at its finest.