Gunsmithing Am I about to open a can of worms?

[Red Ryder]

For the past 5 years I've sporadically been working on load devo for a 264 Win Mag. Bergers, Sierras and now, finally successful, Hornady AMAXs.

The rifle, a Sendero II, had been worked over by Clarence Hammonds and one of the things he did was bed the action. Now that I've decided to keep the gun, I want to get that crappy stainless steel fluted barrel ceracoated but I wonder how much getting the action coated is going to screw up the bedding job.

So, that's my question - if I get the action coated, am I going to screw up my accuracy by screwing up the bedding fit?

As always your wise and experienced answers are appreciated.

 

[Chabrone]

Re: Am I about to open a can of worms?

Coating before bedding is preferred but I don't think it will screw it up. The coatings are fairly uniform in thickness and shouldn't be too thick to keep it in the same bedding. Try it and if you have to rebed, it will be an excuse to buy a new stock ( I am projecting a little since that is what I want).

 

[darrenk75b]

Re: Am I about to open a can of worms?

A number of smiths that I know coat after bedding. If you looks at Chad Dixon's threads, you will see it done that way. I always coat my own actions after bedding.

So long as you are not applying an overly-thick finish, you should be fine.

 

[hero's machine]

Re: Am I about to open a can of worms?

You'll be fine. Most bedding agents shrink a fuzz so you should end up slightly tight.

 

[Red Ryder]

Re: Am I about to open a can of worms?

Thanks guys.

Chabrone, if it's one other thing I'd like to do to that stick is get another stock. It's got that horrific H-S stock on it with a palm swell that I've never liked on any gun.

 

[Chabrone]

Re: Am I about to open a can of worms?

Grind it off. I have done it to numerous hs stocks and opened up a thumb hole that was built for a midge. Coat with devcon and texture to your reliking and repaint.

 

[nectoxicdragon]

Re: Am I about to open a can of worms?

Hey new to the forum but old to smithing. No need to worry. IF you have accuracy issues AFTER coating the action and barrel, just take some prussian blue,or similar and coat the BEDDING, and install the action, tighten the bolts to spec and remove. The marking agent (Prussian blue) will mark the action where you simply need to tale a dremmel and carefully polish off the ceracoat, then use a silicon based oil on the bare metal of the action if it isnt stainless like the barrel, as the silicon will prevent any rust from forming. Dinosaur oils dont have the ability to impregnate and hold like Silicon does, and protect, without needing to stay "wet", so there is no worry about it affecting the bedding or leaching beyond and into the stock either,so wipe it off and you will be safe. I've used this technique on parkerizing with no issues what so ever, be it full length, free floated, or two point bedding.
QUICK EDIT: this is about the only real way to keep most people happy with parkerized finishes. The logic being that parkerizing raises above the metal and over time may wear off due to friction OR the rough surface MAY abrade the bedding, bot of which can loosen the bedding job. The logic fits, but I've never seen it proven one way or another, perhaps someone with experience in this aspect can comment on that side. But this IS the technique that the shooters Ive worked with preferred.

 

[nectoxicdragon]

Re: Am I about to open a can of worms?

If you dont like the fit of the stock in your hand, dont replace the stock, re fit it, it's easy enough to do. take some powdered carbon and vegetable oil and mix itto a dark inky substance, and lightly coat your trigger hand and grip the stock as if to shoot then take a rasp and carefully file away the marked areas. As you work it down use smoother files. sand paper and stain and finish to match. You will have a stock that fits your hand and not another "off the shelf" that needs to be re bedded.