Gunsmithing Am I doing this right? (fiberglass stock repair/painting)

[sidewaysil80]

Let me preface this by saying I'm no gunsmith. In fact this is my first bolt gun so with that being said I'm totally open to suggestions and input...don't hold back!

Finally got around to painting (fixing) the bell and carlson stock on the Remington 700...Will be using OD-Green Aluma-Hyde II but I really want to ensure my prep work is done correctly. The biggest reason for the re-coating project was I made a noob mistake and installed the cheek riser bolts to low...in addition I drilled at an angle and had an extra hole (oops).

I re-drilled the holes properly and proceeded to "erase" the old ones. I used flexible great-stuff to fill the holes of the stock and then after hardening, added waterproof jb weld putty to put a solid top coat over great stuff...

Sanded smooth, intially used 150 grit to knock the mounds down and get rid of the factory spider webbing that came on the stock...

Once the holes were repaired/filled I went over the entire stock (minus bedding of course) with 100 to scuff it and prep it for the paint...

Tomorrow I'll use Brownell's aerosol degreaser to wipe everything down, once dried I'll tape off bedding compound/bottom metal inlett and re-install swivel studs and hang for paint.

My main question is this, after using the 150 grit to sand everything, it seemed very smooth still. So I went to 100 grit, while it feels rougher (albeit slightly) it still feels smooth. Is that typically enough to lay a coat or two of epoxy? I've heard aluma-hyde comes on thick but I'd rather consult the experts prior to gouging the thing with 10 grit lol.

 

[Jered Joplin]

It should stick to it if you did it with 600 grit just make sure it's clean before you apply it.

 

[sidewaysil80]

It should stick to it if you did it with 600 grit just make sure it's clean before you apply it.

Thank you for the input and green light!

 

[Rhys]

If you want to retexture the stock, I've used Duplicolor spray on bedliner with good results. After it dries it will take paint just fine, and the texture will also help camoflage any rough sposts to some degree as well.

 

[sidewaysil80]

Don't mind my grass/foliage that's growing in my spray booth...

Next question, it has an oh-so-fine layer of pollen that clung to some parts of the paint and it looks like little patches of dark spots. Not too noticeable but enough to warrant correcting. Should I just let it fully cure (48hrs?) and then hit it with a final top coat, indoors this time? Or should I use ultra fine and sand it prior to top coat?