American Rifle Company New Archimedes Action, New Xylo Chassis, and major Mausingfield revision

Strong work Phlegethon
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I would be surprised, it’s such a niche product. I was going to try 3D printing a replacement to get a little closer to the trigger, but haven’t had time to finish the design.

In other news, I found the spigot was a little long for the Elite Iron bipod, resulting in a diving board effect when firing. My very classy modification:
View attachment 7567429View attachment 7567430
Lol, you couldnt leave another 1/8" to keep the N?
 
I would be surprised, it’s such a niche product. I was going to try 3D printing a replacement to get a little closer to the trigger, but haven’t had time to finish the design.

In other news, I found the spigot was a little long for the Elite Iron bipod, resulting in a diving board effect when firing. My very classy modification:
View attachment 7567429View attachment 7567430

Mine went straight from the mailbox to the hack saw. Now I have a spare Arca to Picatinny adaptor.
 
I would be surprised, it’s such a niche product. I was going to try 3D printing a replacement to get a little closer to the trigger, but haven’t had time to finish the design.

In other news, I found the spigot was a little long for the Elite Iron bipod, resulting in a diving board effect when firing. My very classy modification:
View attachment 7567429View attachment 7567430

I wanted the grip to be about 1/4" closer to the trigger. I liked it and was going to put some foam padding on the grip, but ultimately ended up selling it and going back to my ACC. Maybe once grips are out / adjustable I'll go back to the Xylo.
 
Anyone have a printable outline of the grips? Wondering if i could make a template to place on hardwoods to cut on my bandsaw. Might be more complicated than i think itll be haha.
 
Anyone have a printable outline of the grips? Wondering if i could make a template to place on hardwoods to cut on my bandsaw. Might be more complicated than i think itll be haha.
The problem is the inner surface is pretty intricate. They do make a CAD file available but you’d need a CNC mill. I think it would be tough to do by hand.
 
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Has anyone made a wood cheek piece I feel like that could really tie the whole thing together.

I 3D printed an ambisexual cheek piece but now that you mention it, a wooden one would be pretty alright! I have a walnut project rolling right now that should produce a piece of scrap that would work.

Also replaced the factory butt pad with a pachmyer. Original unit started cracking on me.
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I 3D printed an ambisexual cheek piece but now that you mention it, a wooden one would be pretty alright! I have a walnut project rolling right now that should produce a piece of scrap that would work.

Also replaced the factory butt pad with a pachmyer. Original unit started cracking on me.
View attachment 7586219
How did you do the butt pad? The ergonomics of the factory one are starting to seem suboptimal.
 
Belt sander and a drill. There's a steel reinforcing plate inside the pachmyer, and as you can see (silver strips along the side) I had to cut through it to match the profile of the Xylo plate. Ideally a guy leaves meat around the outside edge of that reinforcing plate but I didn't remember it until I 'found' it with the belt sander.

Otherwise, it's held to the XYLO with the same 2 screws that held on the original pad. I had to drill those 2 holes in the Pachmyer pad.

My MS Paint skills at it again. This is roughly what it looks like, It's been a few years since I tore one apart to look at it.
xylopachmyer.jpg
 
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How difficult is it to remove the original butt pad and cheek piece to be replaced with the pachmayer and cheek unit? I want it to be ambi on the cheek since I shoot wrong side at matches fairly regularly. This is basically my last hold up. I doubt I use the cant features but that logic might change when I have the chassis in hand.
 
I 3D printed an ambisexual cheek piece but now that you mention it, a wooden one would be pretty alright! I have a walnut project rolling right now that should produce a piece of scrap that would work.

Also replaced the factory butt pad with a pachmyer. Original unit started cracking on me.
View attachment 7586219

Thats pretty fucking hot right there. You taking orders?
 
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How difficult is it to remove the original butt pad and cheek piece to be replaced with the pachmayer and cheek unit? I want it to be ambi on the cheek since I shoot wrong side at matches fairly regularly. This is basically my last hold up. I doubt I use the cant features but that logic might change when I have the chassis in hand.

Removing them isn't a problem, super easy.
 
I 3D printed an ambisexual cheek piece but now that you mention it, a wooden one would be pretty alright! I have a walnut project rolling right now that should produce a piece of scrap that would work.

Also replaced the factory butt pad with a pachmyer. Original unit started cracking on me.
View attachment 7586219
That cheek rest looks beter than the original.
 
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I wonder if it would be possible to use the KRG molded cheek rest, since it seems to use a modular mounting plate:
 
In other news, I’ve found the Gray Ops external weights (designed for the MPA chassis) work great on the Xylo. They come down almost flush with the bottom, bringing the width to 2.7 inches and making the foreend more stable. The new RRS lever clamp still works, although I think a knob type clamp would interfere.
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Measurement request.

Can someone tell me the distance from the front of the grip to a flat trigger tech trigger shoe? Thinking about one of these for a Nuke...
 
Anyone have a Vector in a Xylo? Mine is not doing to well in the magazine department.

Edit: It appears that there is not enough material in the magazine cut on the Vector to stop the front of the magazine from just slipping on in there. MDT ACC did not have this problem and neither did the Manners Gen 2 Mini Chassis but they both had no way of stopping over-insertion at the rear.

This is a very out of date follow up on this issue, but for anyone searching for a solution in the future I wanted to post something to help out.

My Xylo + Zeus combination experiences the same problem with AICS mags (Magpul in my case, as its what I had on-hand). What I assume is tolerance stacking in the forward area of the mag well. The Zeus is not sitting far enough back (or the Xylo magwell is not cut far enough forward, or both) to allow the magazine to hit the mag stop lip of the action. So the front of the mag is over inserted and binds everything up.

The issue is easily resolved by calling ARC and getting a set of Magazine Stop Screws (part 12142, item #48 on the parts diagram) They screw into the chassis and give the mag something to stop against. With the screws in place, the bolt will not bind, even with the full weight of the rifle resting on the magazine. The clever bolt catch hump on the Xylo can do its job effectively.
 
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