Annealing Help Needed.

Papajohn

High Priest of the Powder Hoarders
Minuteman
  • Sep 4, 2021
    20
    33
    Coastal Misery
    I've never annealed a piece of brass in my life, but since I'm getting deeper and deeper into the accuracy game, it seems like a good idea, especially given component shortages and the horrid cost of new brass these days. But I'm on a tight budget, and I'm lazy as the day is long. Does anyone have a quick-and-dirty way to anneal that won't break the bank (I'm retired AND cheap) and doesn't take all day to do 300-500 pieces of brass? I shoot a lot of 223, 6.5G, 6BR and 308, and a system that handles them all would be a big help. I have a lead pot and a propane torch, but I'm betting there are ways of annealing I'm not familiar with.

    Your ideas and suggestions are appreciated.
     
    Annealeez is a pretty sweet spot for convenience, speed, consistency, and price. Hundreds of cases per hour once you get it dialed, can handle different case lengths by buying different wheels.

    Not the cheapest option, not remotely the most expensive, and one of the most convenient methods for bulk.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Islas82
    I've never annealed a piece of brass in my life, but since I'm getting deeper and deeper into the accuracy game, it seems like a good idea, especially given component shortages and the horrid cost of new brass these days. But I'm on a tight budget, and I'm lazy as the day is long. Does anyone have a quick-and-dirty way to anneal that won't break the bank (I'm retired AND cheap) and doesn't take all day to do 300-500 pieces of brass? I shoot a lot of 223, 6.5G, 6BR and 308, and a system that handles them all would be a big help. I have a lead pot and a propane torch, but I'm betting there are ways of annealing I'm not familiar with.

    Your ideas and suggestions are appreciated.
    I've been using Annealeez for some time and it's at a very reasonable price. There are other's very similar and at the same price point, but I have not experience with them. Here's where you can get it:

    This is the one I've had for some time (with a couple mods that I've done):
    1646272868494.jpeg
     
    • Like
    Reactions: jMarine
    I think the annealeze would be challenging to use with the 6BR case. The short cases will be tough to get the flame on the neck without lighting the wheels on fire. The DIY induction route might be good or maybe go the pliers and touch route for the least investment route with the trade off of the most manual work.
     
    Like straightshooter suggested, I would go annealeez. It’s a very decent setup for the cost and does a great job at consistent annealing once you get it dialed in. Even on a tight budget, this one isn’t THAT bad and sure beats all the headache time-dependent “budget” methods. I have one that I’ve probably annealed 15,000 rounds on or more and it still runs great!
     
    ...the Annealeez and Elfster's "EP Integrations 2.0 Annealer" are probably the lowest cost on the market, comparable to each other and both give you control over the duration of the casing being in the flame. One requires changing the disc wheels for caliber changes and the discs can be "melted" if the flame positioning is off (Annealeez). The other requires no additional parts to make caliber changes, 300BLK up to 50BMG capable. Annealeez has a chute feeder, EP 2.0 is hand fed, time savings of one over the other is debatable.

    I have the EP 2.0 and use it for my 300BLK, 6ARC, 223/556, 7.62/308Win.

     
    • Like
    Reactions: elfster1234
    I think the annealeze would be challenging to use with the 6BR case. The short cases will be tough to get the flame on the neck without lighting the wheels on fire. The DIY induction route might be good or maybe go the pliers and touch route for the least investment route with the trade off of the most manual work.
    Valid point! I’ve gone through a couple wheels doing 300blk. But the wheels still last about 2k rounds as long as you take the time to properly position your flame JUST right.
     
    I think the annealeze would be challenging to use with the 6BR case. The short cases will be tough to get the flame on the neck without lighting the wheels on fire. The DIY induction route might be good or maybe go the pliers and touch route for the least investment route with the trade off of the most manual work.
    They make a thinner set of rollers for short cases. I like my annealeze. Extras rollers are like $20. Lots of value for the money.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: jMarine
    ....regardless of the "mods" or "fixes" one makes, the wheels of the Annealeez can still get melted and you have to buy additional wheels for replacement.

    ....The EP 2.0's doesn't require anything extra to accommodate calibers and the drum also acts like a heat shield further mitigating heat transfer/travel to the body of the casing below the desired depth, IMHO.

    OP should watch as many vids on the 2 systems as possible to formulate a decision.


    ...FWIW, I ran 200 virgin Starline 6.5 Grendel that I was going to convert to 6ARC in a single session in less than an hour, probably more like 30 minutes or less.
     
    Interesting, I actually used one just to see if it was viable solution and it did work for me, but I was not the one who assembled it.
    I thought it was the induction heater that was bad. Sent it back with same results with the replacement. Struggled with it for days doing everything the tutorials suggested with no joy.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: pfl338
    There's a guy here on the 'hide that offers brass services. Mail him your brass and he does what you ask. If I find it, I'll link it. Gets good feedback in the thread. Thinking about sending him mine until I figure out an annealing solution for myself.
     
    I've never annealed a piece of brass in my life, but since I'm getting deeper and deeper into the accuracy game, it seems like a good idea, especially given component shortages and the horrid cost of new brass these days. But I'm on a tight budget, and I'm lazy as the day is long. Does anyone have a quick-and-dirty way to anneal that won't break the bank (I'm retired AND cheap) and doesn't take all day to do 300-500 pieces of brass? I shoot a lot of 223, 6.5G, 6BR and 308, and a system that handles them all would be a big help. I have a lead pot and a propane torch, but I'm betting there are ways of annealing I'm not familiar with.

    Your ideas and suggestions are appreciated.
    I put together a system like in this video. It works extremely good. I am glad that I did it.

     
    There's a guy here on the 'hide that offers brass services. Mail him your brass and he does what you ask. If I find it, I'll link it. Gets good feedback in the thread. Thinking about sending him mine until I figure out an annealing solution for myself.
    @Dave__th3__ss does a great job with brass and will do as much or as little as you want.
     
    No, just blue. But I recommend getting a $25 propane refill kit that you can get off amazon & can refill off of a 20lbs tank = super cheap and moot issue IMO
    I have one and about 30 green tanks refilled to 19 oz. :D

    I do have a one or two of the blue as well. Thanks for the response.

    Edit: you can see the refill valve on the lower right.

    IMG_0510.jpeg
     
    I've never annealed a piece of brass in my life, but since I'm getting deeper and deeper into the accuracy game, it seems like a good idea, especially given component shortages and the horrid cost of new brass these days. But I'm on a tight budget, and I'm lazy as the day is long. Does anyone have a quick-and-dirty way to anneal that won't break the bank (I'm retired AND cheap) and doesn't take all day to do 300-500 pieces of brass? I shoot a lot of 223, 6.5G, 6BR and 308, and a system that handles them all would be a big help. I have a lead pot and a propane torch, but I'm betting there are ways of annealing I'm not familiar with.

    Your ideas and suggestions are appreciated.
    I don’t know your budget but I have the Mike’s Reloading Bench Annealer and like it enough to where I’m not looking for anything “better.”

    John

     
    I've had the Giraud for 10 or more years; it's a PITA to set up and change between calibers but once you get it set up it's on autopilot. I use Tempilaq just to check before large batches where a mistake will be multiplied. I do have it hooked to a bulk propane tank with a regulator, so I can record the PSI I'm using for each case (usually between 12 and 20 PSI) and get a consistent flame between and within sessions, and if I measure the inner flame distance to the neck as Giraud suggests and the dwell time, I can record those numbers and repeat them the next time around, then check with Tempilaq and rock and roll. I let the flame warm up while I'm loading the hopper (because it shrinks after the torch heats up).

    I've had the AMP for about 3-4 years and I now use it for everything larger than 308 (for me that's 7mm Rem mag, 338 LM, 375 CT and 50 BMG). For smaller batches of the bigger stuff, it's not worth the time setting up the Giraud, and doing so requires so much movement of the parts. For 223 and 308 I barely have to adjust anything but the plates.

    However I still use the Giraud for bulk (like several hundred) 223, 260 and 308 because after I get it set up it just does its thing and I do something else for the hour or so it takes to do several hundred. I recently did ~200 260 cases with the AMP and thought I was going to be bored to death with the tedium of that. I can't imagine doing a batch of 500 223 or 308 cases on the AMP. Mind-numbing boredom. Thus, I just can't stomach the thought of giving up the Giraud. If I had to do it again, I'd probably do the Annealeez and save my $$$ for the AMP. I'd try to make a bigger hopper for the Annealeez. That TDP one looks cool too but looks like a giant pain to set up too.