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Annealling?
- Thread starter Brux
- Start date
The cheapest you can go is a hand torch and anneal by hand. There's Plenty of methods on this and it's worked for a long time. 50 bucks or less to do that.
Next level is automation makes it a lot easier and to a degree more consistent. That's going to be in the 275-600 range
then you have the high tech which is induction like the Annie or AMP. That's 1000+
Next level is automation makes it a lot easier and to a degree more consistent. That's going to be in the 275-600 range
then you have the high tech which is induction like the Annie or AMP. That's 1000+
^ what he said.
Neck tension is a pretty important part of consistent loads and brass life. You'll find many many people here do it. I think it's worth it.
Neck tension is a pretty important part of consistent loads and brass life. You'll find many many people here do it. I think it's worth it.
Does anyone have a link to a good tutorial on annealing with a torch? Previously I used my MAP torch in a dark garage and torched the brass until the flame turned slightly orange and then stopped but I couldn't figure out how to turn it without getting my fingers burned.
I use aliminum spinners that chuck into a hand drill. I made them on a lathe. Some entities do sell them though. Some use a spark plug socket or similar(depending on case size). I also use a metronome for timing.
Before I bought my annealer I used a drill and socket of the right diameter and put aluminum foil in in the bottom to get the neck of the case out far enough.
It's bad correlation to refer annealing to increasing accuracy. Is more of allowing better consistent case to case which leads to accuracy.
You anneal so you reverse the effects of work hardening the case. By doing that it becomes softer, more malleable and after sizing, less springback.
Think of work hardening like tight muscles. You take a warm bath to relax muscles. That's annealing.
Theres times when you necessarily don't need to and I'm going on a limb here saying this but if you neck turn cases and /or have a very specific reloading set up. In the end you have your cases the same and don't necessarily need to anneal.
Long story short, yes you should anneal. There's multiple benefits to it, jury is out whether you need to do it every firing, 2 firings, 3'firings. No ones proven or disproven one way or the other.
On a a side note if you can't afford an annealer, killshot (look for his sticky above) offers annealing services and it's VERY cheap.
A really good option for those who can't afford annealing machines and want someone with the know how to get it done right.
You anneal so you reverse the effects of work hardening the case. By doing that it becomes softer, more malleable and after sizing, less springback.
Think of work hardening like tight muscles. You take a warm bath to relax muscles. That's annealing.
Theres times when you necessarily don't need to and I'm going on a limb here saying this but if you neck turn cases and /or have a very specific reloading set up. In the end you have your cases the same and don't necessarily need to anneal.
Long story short, yes you should anneal. There's multiple benefits to it, jury is out whether you need to do it every firing, 2 firings, 3'firings. No ones proven or disproven one way or the other.
On a a side note if you can't afford an annealer, killshot (look for his sticky above) offers annealing services and it's VERY cheap.
A really good option for those who can't afford annealing machines and want someone with the know how to get it done right.
For accurate ammunition the goal is consistency. Annealing allows for more consistent neck tension. There's lots of theories as to the best way to anneal and some will argue that the socket and torch method works however there isn't any way to be consistent and over annealing can be a problem. The annealeze is a fairly inexpensive machine that seems to get good reviews and the Annie works great for induction annealing and is in the $500 range. I know a shooter that shot Lapua brass 4 times then tossed it because he didn't want to spend the time trimming or annealing. Another shooter just sizes brass, adds powder and bullet and shoots. Both shooters are very competitive.
The most used word in a precision shooter's vocabulary is "consistency". This applies to every facet of one's shooting system. If you want to anneal consistently, you will get better results using a machine with a timing feature than you will with some "kitchen table" tooling like a drill and torch. The Anneal-EEZ is probably the best "bang-for-the-buck" unit out there unless you want to build your own, like the "Skippy", but trying to time the heat applied with a metronome or counting "1 potatoe 2 potatoe" isn't going to give you "consistent" and repeatable results. Oh wait, you could coat the inside of EVERY case neck with Tempilaq and drill/torch them until you reached temp, like some annealing systems advocate/require, but then again...you'd have to then clean the inside of every neck to remove residue. Get the Anneal-EEZ, you'll save money in the long run and get results that won't have you second guessing.
After a number of firings I noticed variable seating depth associated with variable seating force. Annealing corrected this to achieve consistent results again. Now I run brass through the Annealeez after every firing rather than trying to keep up with a cycle.
When I started ultrasonically cleaning and annealing after every firing, my SD and ES was cut in half. I can tell just by seating force if I forgot to anneal just one time. I now anneal right after ultrasonic cleaning to finish drying the brass out.
