Suppressors Anti seize for muzzle devices

[flyright]

A friend of mine got his 419 stuck pretty good on his barrel. Used some Kroil and a good bit of wrench to break loose. Looking at the barrel threads, I could see a very slight amount of galling but he said it was that way from the start. We cleaned up the threads and reinstalled the 419 with some Birchwood Casey's Choke Tube Lube (he's a shotgunner too and had some on hand) and it appears accuracy was not affected.

I've always relied on ultra clean threads and never had a problem. But, now I'm thinking of using some form of AS compound. Some have suggested the Birchwood Casey's Choke Tube Lube (aluminum graphite mix) and some have suggested grease of one type or the other and others automotive AS compound. I think any should be fine; I've just never felt the need. But, after this, I believe it might be a little insurance against a sticky situation.

I appreciate your input. FR

 

[One1Bravo]

I use this stuff. A little goes a long way. Never had any issues.

 

[antithesis]

For tight tolerances you should use Silver grade AS, not Copper grade. They both have the same (or similar depending on brand) heat rating, but the Copper has small flakes where Silver is silky smooth.

 

[ken4570tc in WY]

I've used the copper stuff and didn't like that it resembled rust. I have some choke tube lube and intend to put it to use this coming week.

 

[flyright]

The BC Choke Tube Lube has aluminum/graphite like the Loctite Silver. I think his little tube will do all of my brakes and many dozens more. I've got proper, clean threads and never had an issue but I think I'll remount them (after cleaning) with some of the BC stuff. May try it on my TB Ultra 7 too - when it gets out of jail. I will report back in a couple of years.

 

[bab029]

I use a ceramic based antiseez on the cb mount. Seems to help.

 

[Alvin W]

From a catalog at our shop

• Molybdenum-sulfide forms a great grease, but it is not suited for high temperature applications with nickel-based alloys (AFAIK nickel is contained in most stainless steels and high strength steels): The compound breaks down in molybdenum and sulfide, sulfide attacks the metal, inducing stress corrosion cracking and cold welding. Suited for up to 300°C.
• Teflon based anti seize breaks down on high temperatures forming corrosive fluoride compounds. Offers also a good lubrication, depending on the product it could be food compatible. Great chemical resistance.
• Copper based anti seize is to be avoided in combination with aluminum parts. Copper induces galvanic corrosion on the aluminum. Suited for up to 1100°C. Since copper is a toxic metal you should avoid skin contact.
• Nickel based anti seize is toxic. Finely powdered nickel is not something you want on your skin. Nickel causes severe allergies and other problems. Offers protection for up to 1400°C.
• Aluminum based anti seize should be compatible with aluminum applications. Good for up to 1100°C. Drawback: There is again that problem with that finely powdered metal everywhere (your tools, workplace, skin etc.).
• Ceramic based anti seize. Since it is metal-free galvanic corrosion is no problem, it offers highest temperature resistance and should be virtually chemically inert. Depending on the product it could be even food compatible.

 

[captainmorgan460]

Permatex Aluminum anti-seize has worked for me. Hardest thing is getting it off of fingers and clothes after torquing. Half a pea sized drop does a muzzle device.

 

[Sieg]

I use Permatex Nickel on my suppressor with no issues.

 

[agbm]

Bostik Never Seez, works up to 2400*F

Industrial Supply Group - Your Solution to Anti Seize, Lubricant and Epoxy Needs!

Industrial Supply Group is proud to be YOUR On-Line source for Bostik Never-Seez Products, the recognized brand leader in anti-seize compounds, sealants, lubricants & Hot Melt Glue Sticks, Epoxies. Hot Melt Glue Guns, Caulks, Aerosol Adhesives & Specialty Woodworking Products.

www.neverseezproducts.com

 

[101stinfantry]

I always rocksett my suppressor muzzle devices on, is there a reason you guys are taking them off?

 

[pell1203]

I always rocksett my suppressor muzzle devices on, is there a reason you guys are taking them off?

I believe they are talking about the interface between the muzzle device and the suppressor and not the muzzle to muzzle device connection which is more permanent and many use rocksett on.

 

[101stinfantry]

Ah, gotcha.

 

[gconnoyer]

I use just a little bit of CMD and keep the threads clean.

Do people not take their suppressors off after a range trip?

I'm confused how everyone is getting their muzzle devices stuck inside their cans lol

 

[bab029]

With the taper mount style (Tbac CB, et al), If you get that bad boy hot then crank down on the can and let it cool... yeah. Stucked.

 

[Zak Smith]

It depends on the materials used in the brake vs. the can

 

[86alaskan]

I use the permatex aluminum based on my brakes and can threads. I've had the can on so tight it took a 2ft pipe wrench and a good amount of heat to get it broken free.... not fun

 

[elmuzzlebreak]

I've never thought of using this but seems like it might be worth it.

 

[AIAW]

I use just a little bit of CMD and keep the threads clean.

Do people not take their suppressors off after a range trip?

I'm confused how everyone is getting their muzzle devices stuck inside their cans lol

Maybe that shitty MADS mount and all of it's failures, but I've never heard of a TBAC brake getting stuck inside of the suppressor. If you can spin the brake off trying to remove the suppressor then you didn't have enough torque on it for sure.

I've never locktite or rocksett my muzzle device on though. That would make removing it in order to clean the crown-cake very much a PITA.

 

[kthomas]

I use a copper based anti-seize, but I use it for my shouldered barrels.

The Area 419 brakes seem to be prone to getting carbon locked and stuck on brakes. My Area 419 brake has the "sleeve" locked up to the brake, tighter than a nuns c*nt. Pretty damn annoying.

My Insite Arms brakes stay on tight when torqued up hand tight, and come off easy. I never have to use anti-seize with them. I'm not sure why the A419 have such a tendency to get locked up.

 

[Rec1er]

Choke tube grease.

 

[carbonbased]

How about Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant? It’s got ceramic in it. I guess it’s better than the purple Permatex 24125.

Temperature range is -50 degree F to 3000 degree F (-46 degree C to 1649 degree C).

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Red Loctite.

 

[pell1203]

Red Loctite.

Yikes!!!

I believe he is looking for a lubricant (anti-seize) to allow him to easily attach and remove the suppressor from either a compact brake adapter or a direct thread mount without binding and NOT to semi-permanently attach the brake adapter to a threaded barrel.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Yikes!!!

I believe he is looking for a lubricant (anti-seize) to allow him to easily attach and remove the suppressor from either a compact brake adapter or a direct thread mount without binding and NOT to semi-permanently attach the brake adapter to a threaded barrel.

My bad. Thought his brake/mount was coming off w/ the suppressor.

 

[VanJoe]

How about Permatex 80653 Silicone Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant? It’s got ceramic in it. I guess it’s better than the purple Permatex 24125.

Temperature range is -50 degree F to 3000 degree F (-46 degree C to 1649 degree C).

I bought a tube of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1LV9F6/

Haven't used it yet though. I like the smaller packaging then the big bottle.

 

[GRIFFIN_ARMAMENT]

We offer a 2300° anti-seize product in smaller container quantities for use on silencer mounts and ID interfaces. It's an industrial anti-seize product called Lock Cease 20/20 that we purchase and repackage.

CHECK IT OUT HERE

 

[Snuby642]

Anti seize on muzzle devices good.

Unless it is a suppressor mount then rockset . It is easily removed with boiling water and a butter tub, normally second tubfull. I dont even overnite soak anymore.

A loose mount will eventualy cause a baffle strike, no fun.

Loosen can quickly after last shot with your range pot holder.

It's not rocket science.

 

[EnXCess]

I had always just put a little oil or silicone grease on my threads, checked suppressor tightness every 50 rounds or so, and never had a problem getting my DT suppressor off.

But I read how great AS is so I got some PermaTex 1,600-degree AS (so, "silver," I guess) and tried it yesterday on my Rem 700 204R. Accuracy was great, as usual, for a while, and then I started getting inexplicable flyers like never before. Then the whole groups opened up to about double normal size. All screws were snug, and I knew the 204 hadn't broken the Nightforce.

Took the suppressor off and the AS had migrated to the end of the threads and run onto the crown, where it had become seriously BAKED ON. A rag and Hoppe's 9 did not touch it. Copper remover did little better. Finally resort to 0000 steel wool and 600-grit abrasive paste, which got it off w/o scratching the crown.

Needless to say I won't be putting any AS on my barrel threads any more. Maybe I just put too much, but whatever, I didn't need it in the first place.

 

[Gtscotty]

We offer a 2300° anti-seize product in smaller container quantities for use on silencer mounts and ID interfaces. It's an industrial anti-seize product called Lock Cease 20/20 that we purchase and repackage.

CHECK IT OUT HERE

I was using aluminum based AS, but recently switched to this stuff. The tub could definitely be a little bigger, but it seems to work well.

 

[SilentStalkr]

I always rocksett my suppressor muzzle devices on, is there a reason you guys are taking them off?

Some of us still use direct thread suppressors on some rifles! So I take my brakes on and off on some rifles pretty frequently.

 

[Doctorwho1138]

Going through this thread and I realized I don’t use any lubricants or anti-seize on my suppressor threads. TBAC use to not recommend any lubricant of any sort and just clean the threads regularly of carbon. I have never had a problem. Is this something i should be doing? Thanks

 

[SilentStalkr]

I had always just put a little oil or silicone grease on my threads, checked suppressor tightness every 50 rounds or so, and never had a problem getting my DT suppressor off.

But I read how great AS is so I got some PermaTex 1,600-degree AS (so, "silver," I guess) and tried it yesterday on my Rem 700 204R. Accuracy was great, as usual, for a while, and then I started getting inexplicable flyers like never before. Then the whole groups opened up to about double normal size. All screws were snug, and I knew the 204 hadn't broken the Nightforce.

Took the suppressor off and the AS had migrated to the end of the threads and run onto the crown, where it had become seriously BAKED ON. A rag and Hoppe's 9 did not touch it. Copper remover did little better. Finally resort to 0000 steel wool and 600-grit abrasive paste, which got it off w/o scratching the crown.

Needless to say I won't be putting any AS on my barrel threads any more. Maybe I just put too much, but whatever, I didn't need it in the first place.

That’s really strange. You must have used too much. I’ve been doing this for a very long time and have never had any problems like that and certainly never had any baked on. It wipes off with ease, hence the reason people complain about it getting everywhere. Something is very wrong in your scenario or you were using the right stuff or something.

 

[Arc Light]

Nickel anti-seize is good for 2300+ degrees and more suitable for this application than aluminum based.

 

[EnXCess]

Going through this thread and I realized I don’t use any lubricants or anti-seize on my suppressor threads. TBAC use to not recommend any lubricant of any sort and just clean the threads regularly of carbon. I have never had a problem. Is this something i should be doing? Thanks

I think it is a good idea with direct-thread to have some kind of lubricant. I always want something on just about any threads I expect to put to use repeatedly, but even more of a concern is tightening the suppressor up to the shoulder dry hundreds of times.

I am now using wheel-bearing grease. Seems to work great.

 

[EnXCess]

That’s really strange. You must have used too much. I’ve been doing this for a very long time and have never had any problems like that and certainly never had any baked on. It wipes off with ease, hence the reason people complain about it getting everywhere. Something is very wrong in your scenario or you were using the right stuff or something.

I probably did use too much, but then I don't want to have a problem I cannot fix at the range any time I use a bit too much.

Wheel-bearing grease seems to work just as well, and if I use too much it easily wipes off the crown, instead of getting baked on.

You can't tell much from this photo but it was taken after I had worked on the crown with Hoppe's 9 for 5 minutes and gotten nowhere. The high heat had turned the PermaTex Anti-Seize to something like epoxy! I thought the high pressure inside the tube would tend to blow anything on the threads back to the shoulder and out, but that did not happen.

Anti-Seize is great for engine bolts or something where the bolt is going to be installed for years in a corrosive environment, and you want to be able to easily get out years later. I would say there is zero reason to use it on a DT suppressor. It might be okay for a QD mount you plan to basically make a permanent part of your barrel, but I will never put it on one of my DT suppressors again. A thick grease does everything AS does without the mess and risk of using a little too much.

 

[SilentStalkr]

Nickel anti-seize is good for 2300+ degrees and more suitable for this application than aluminum based.

Either way he still shouldn’t have had the problems he did with the aluminum...hmmm...

 

[SilentStalkr]

I probably did use too much, but then I don't want to have a problem I cannot fix at the range any time I use a bit too much.

Wheel-bearing grease seems to work just as well, and if I use too much it easily wipes off the crown, instead of getting baked on.

You can't tell much from this photo but it was taken after I had worked on the crown with Hoppe's 9 for 5 minutes and gotten nowhere. The high heat had turned the PermaTex Anti-Seize to something like epoxy! I thought the high pressure inside the tube would tend to blow anything on the threads back to the shoulder and out, but that did not happen.

Anti-Seize is great for engine bolts or something where the bolt is going to be installed for years in a corrosive environment, and you want to be able to easily get out years later. I would say there is zero reason to use it on a DT suppressor. It might be okay for a QD mount you plan to basically make a permanent part of your barrel, but I will never put it on one of my DT suppressors again. A thick grease does everything AS does without the mess and risk of using a little too much.

I can see the white on the threads. I’ve never seen it react like that personally. I also see no graphite in there.

 

[Maxduty]

 

[challer]

For tight tolerances you should use Silver grade AS, not Copper grade. They both have the same (or similar depending on brand) heat rating, but the Copper has small flakes where Silver is silky smooth.

not diver, you want nickel anti seize. It does not corrode

 

[EnXCess]

I never had problems of any kind with silicone grease so I am going back to it. Don't know why I thot I needed to "fix" anything.

 

[kthomas]

Either way he still shouldn’t have had the problems he did with the aluminum...hmmm...

He seems to have lots of problems with suppressors and accuracy.

 

[EnXCess]

He seems to have lots of problems with suppressors and accuracy.

Only when I listen to bone-heads posting on the Internet. When you can shoot four 5-shot groups in a row that average well under .3, like the target I posted, let me know.

 

[Triple D]

Only when I listen to bone-heads posting on the Internet. When you can shoot four 5-shot groups in a row that average well under .3, like the target I posted, let me know.

What’s your setup for group shooting?

 

[EnXCess]