Gunsmithing Anti seize/loc tight

Toney198

Tikka Tweaker
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 28, 2017
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I just purchased two lil bastards to put on my tac a1 and CTR, what is recommended to put on the threads. This is a semi permanent thing as it will be much later before I get a can. The CTR will be my hunting rifle so it will see all weather. The Ctr is stainless if that maters.

Thanks.
 
I degrease the threads, both barrel threads and threads in the brake, and then put a drop or two of Rocksett on the barrel before tightening the break. Don't get crazy with the roclsett or torque, it doesn't take much for it to stay put.
 
I use Permatex which can be found at most any auto parts store. A small tube is less than $5 and will last a long time as it doesn’t take much and does not need to be applied every time you remove/install your brake. It comes in a few versions, I have nickel based but I don’t think it makes much difference which one you get.
 
On semi-permanent installations I try to have it both ways, anti-seize and thread adhesive on parts that may feel almost ~1,000 deg F. I prefer the Permatex copper based anti-seize, as its product specifications recommends it for combined heat and corrosive situations. I apply the Rocksett to the terminal threads of the device host so upon device removal I do not have to fight the adhesive the entire length of the threaded surface. I apply the anti-seize to the deep 1/2 of the device threads so the net effect is both products on different regions of the thread engagements.

The copper anti-seize has a -30 to 1800 deg F specification range. Rocksett silca-based adhesive is stable to 2,000 deg F which is why many brake / suppressor mfg.'s recommend its use.

The aluminum (silver based) is a product targeting salt corrosion and moisture e.g. marine situations. The aluminum based silver anti-seize has a -60 to 1600 deg F specification.

I use a small brush or Q-tip to apply the anti-seize as it is messy and a little goes a long way.

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