Anvil-30 Sticky in Humid Air

[Baron23]

HI guys - just wondering if anybody else has had this experience. I have an Anvil-30 on top of a 2 Vets No Name tripod and, in this particular case, I had a Pig Saddle mounted on the Anvil and a Rem 700 in .308 in that clamp for ground level deer hunting in Maryland.

I have had this Anvil-30 out just a bit over the last 10 months I have owned it. Mostly used with observation type stuff (spotting scope, binos, LRF), but I have had it out shooting targets and hunting with it a handful of times. Tension on the ball has always been a bit tight even with the lever in full release position, but it has never given me a problem.

I was out hunting last week in the evening on a pretty moist day. No rain, no fog (yet, fog set in after sunset), but the dew point was quite high and everything felt a bit damp.

In this instance, the ball kept locking up. That is, when I unlocked the Anvil and try to pan with the gun, the ball was stuck and made a VERY distinct crack sound when it broke loose. This occurred consistently and even if the tension lever was only partially engaged and then released. Stuck and broke free with a crack.

It has never been dropped in mud, never been in the rain, never been in blowing dust/sand, I don't compete so its never been exposed to that kind of usage, and frankly has only been very lightly used since it arrived last Feb. Darn thing is near to brand new.

I got it home and in the drier air of my garage this behavior seemed to go away. I checked and as far as I can tell there is absolutely no dirt or residue on the ball. I did spray a small bit of Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner (NOT the spray case lube) which leaves a slick dry lube surface and again, it seems to be fine now

My overall impression is that a very small layer of moisture condensed on the ball and formed a seal with the socket that needed to be broken due to such tight clearances there...hence the sharp sonic crack (sort of like cracking a knuckle). But this is pure speculation.

Any of you folks every experience anything like this with your Anvil-30? I'd tag RRS, as I know we have reps of SOAR that pop in here, but I can't remember their handle to do so.

Cheers and thanks

 

[KeithStone]

@MPHReallyRightStuff

 

[dirtytough]

Mine has done the exact same thing. I cleaned mine and it seemed to help. So I attributed it to dust or something on it. Maybe it was moisture?

I mostly use mine coyote hunting. And it’s usually way below freezing when using it. Once I get on stand I unlock it all the way and move it. It makes a sharp sound and free’s up. Same thing the next stand.

Interested to see what RRS says is the culprit.

 

[Baron23]

Mine has done the exact same thing. I cleaned mine and it seemed to help. So I attributed it to dust or something on it. Maybe it was moisture?

I mostly use mine coyote hunting. And it’s usually way below freezing when using it. Once I get on stand I unlock it all the way and move it. It makes a sharp sound and free’s up. Same thing the next stand.

Interested to see what RRS says is the culprit.

Thank you so much...reassuring that it wasn't just me messing something up.

It does feel like moisture forms a tight seal between ball and socket and you need to overcome the vacuum created when trying to move it and when that is broken we get the crack sound. But this is just what it subjectively feels like to me, like cracking a knuckle, but I have zero evidence as to the root cause.

And thanks, @KeithStone , for the RRS tag. For the life of me, I couldn't remember their SH handle. Well, most days I can't remember what I had for breakfast so there is that! haha

Cheers

 

[MPHReallyRightStuff]

Two most common reasons:

1. Worst case : The ball could be messed up and we will repair or replace it, just send it in (after cleaning it to eliminate that cause and reduce time)

Two videos below. First one is for the newest version (ARC), 2nd video is none ARC, there was a revision to it. If you have an older one you rotate the clamp lever the opposite way to disassemble, same instructions after that)

2. Usual case : Some grime from something is in between the bearing surface of the ball and the locking cups. Take it apart and clean it, apply thin film of lube and good as new. Have hundreds upon hundreds of these in competition, military and hunting use over the past 7 years. Moisture isn't an issue.

Machining issues that we have found in the past: One run in 2018/2019, the ball had a slight deficiency, we reached out to the known customers and replaced the ones experiencing issues. On those nothing you would do to the ball could fix it, outside of throwing it on a drill and going to town with a massive amount of time and a metal polishing compound. If you purchased from a dealer around then and the dealer did not push you the info we would be able to isolate this cause with our inspection machine and replace it before you.

If you need to send it in give me a call 385-248-0800, Michael.



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[Lawnboi]

My first anvil stuck. You nearly had to crack the thing when locked down. RRS polished the head and it was fine.

For very smooth movement it seems it needs to be fairly clean with some lube.

 

[Baron23]

Two most common reasons:

1. Worst case : The ball could be messed up and we will repair or replace it, just send it in (after cleaning it to eliminate that cause and reduce time)

Two videos below. First one is for the newest version (ARC), 2nd video is none ARC, there was a revision to it. If you have an older one you rotate the clamp lever the opposite way to disassemble, same instructions after that)

2. Usual case : Some grime from something is in between the bearing surface of the ball and the locking cups. Take it apart and clean it, apply thin film of lube and good as new. Have hundreds upon hundreds of these in competition, military and hunting use over the past 7 years. Moisture isn't an issue.

Machining issues that we have found in the past: One run in 2018/2019, the ball had a slight deficiency, we reached out to the known customers and replaced the ones experiencing issues. On those nothing you would do to the ball could fix it, outside of throwing it on a drill and going to town with a massive amount of time and a metal polishing compound. If you purchased from a dealer around then and the dealer did not push you the info we would be able to isolate this cause with our inspection machine and replace it before you.

If you need to send it in give me a call 385-248-0800, Michael.



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Thanks, Michael. Mine is an ARC. I did see the older vid at one time and it looked to me like a great way to end up w a bunch of loose parts and no idea how to reassemble! Lol

I’ll look at the new one and consider taking it apart. I guess that if I can’t get it back together I could put them all in a bag and send it back for help! Haha

I’ll be quite surprised if there is any sort of visible crap in there but I may well be wrong. Let me look at vids and see how it’s behaving and then I’ll decide how to approach this.

What do you recommend as a lube on the ball?

Thank you again.

 

[BurtG]

Mine does the same thing after living in my truck and equipment for years.

Used to be able to keep light tension on it and move it. Now it’s locked or unlocked and does the pop. I need to clean and or lube it

 

[Baron23]

Two most common reasons:

1. Worst case : The ball could be messed up and we will repair or replace it, just send it in (after cleaning it to eliminate that cause and reduce time)

Two videos below. First one is for the newest version (ARC), 2nd video is none ARC, there was a revision to it. If you have an older one you rotate the clamp lever the opposite way to disassemble, same instructions after that)

2. Usual case : Some grime from something is in between the bearing surface of the ball and the locking cups. Take it apart and clean it, apply thin film of lube and good as new. Have hundreds upon hundreds of these in competition, military and hunting use over the past 7 years. Moisture isn't an issue.

Machining issues that we have found in the past: One run in 2018/2019, the ball had a slight deficiency, we reached out to the known customers and replaced the ones experiencing issues. On those nothing you would do to the ball could fix it, outside of throwing it on a drill and going to town with a massive amount of time and a metal polishing compound. If you purchased from a dealer around then and the dealer did not push you the info we would be able to isolate this cause with our inspection machine and replace it before you.

If you need to send it in give me a call 385-248-0800, Michael.



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Michael - ah, ok…just looked at the re-timing video for the ARC (and mine is ARC) and that is super easy.

However, you suggested taking it apart to ensure there is no crud between the ball and locking cups. But the only vid w full disassembly instructions is for the older non-ARC and I don’t think they come apart the same…or do they?

 

[jpcowboy]

Mine did the same thing but I had used it for about a year with no cleaning or lubing, took it apart and cleaned it and used a small amount of lube and the problem went away.

 

[Baron23]

Mine did the same thing but I had used it for about a year with no cleaning or lubing, took it apart and cleaned it and used a small amount of lube and the problem went away.

Wha did you use for lube?

P.S. ok, I see in the vid where they cal for CLP and I do have some Breakfree.

 

[MPHReallyRightStuff]

@Baron23, you basically take it apart the exact same way except with the instructions on the second video within regards to removing the handle.
Once you remove the handle that main drive screw now is removed from the bottom and there is no rubber plug or that screw that holds the lever in place. You dint have to mess with the opening of the clamp anymore, much easier.

Long Story Short
-Remove 2 screws from top of ball lock lever
-use remaining ball lock lever to unscrew main drive screw
-remove main drive screw and separate the two ball halves
- clean it
-reassemble and time it

 

[jpcowboy]

Wha did you use for lube?

A very small amount of CLP, I think mine was just dirty. I live in a dry sandy area.

 

[wigwamitus]

My two anvils do the same and are fixed by cleaning per the videos ~every two years. I do use them outside a lot, in the rain etc.

 

[MPHReallyRightStuff]

@Baron23, use basically any lube you would use on a rifle/pistol. You get worried about moisture use a CLP, if your worried about dust use a dry spray. Its a very thin layer.

I typically dont lube at all. The only two times is after a thorough cleaning of my gear or... if its super dirty already and I am being lazy. When i get to that lazy over load point, i first unlock everything and use water everywhere for the dirt and an air hose. Then pour a few big drops of clp in. I work that ball all around like it owes me money, then wipe off as much residue as possible.

 

[powdahound76]

Mine does the same thing after living in my truck and equipment for years.

Used to be able to keep light tension on it and move it. Now it’s locked or unlocked and does the pop. I need to clean and or lube it

Nobody is surprised that you need to clean and lube yer stuff…..

Break anything today?

 

[Baron23]

@Baron23, use basically any lube you would use on a rifle/pistol. You get worried about moisture use a CLP, if your worried about dust use a dry spray. Its a very thin layer.

I typically dont lube at all. The only two times is after a thorough cleaning of my gear or... if its super dirty already and I am being lazy. When i get to that lazy over load point, i first unlock everything and use water everywhere for the dirt and an air hose. Then pour a few big drops of clp in. I work that ball all around like it owes me money, then wipe off as much residue as possible.

Thanks, Michael, I’ll give it a shot tomorrow.

Cheers

P.S. - ah, fuck it. Today has gone far too smoothly so I'm going to take this Anvil apart and screw it up! haha No guts, no glory.

Seriously, you guys have no idea how dangerous I am with tools. NEVER hand the program manager a tool! haha

 

[Baron23]

@MPHReallyRightStuff - frakin A, dude!! haha It was far, far easier than I feared.

I got it apart, the ball was clean as a whistle (by visual inspection only), but now I know how to get in there which is a very good thing as it will get dirty at some point. And yes, the ARC version seems a good bit easier than the OG Anvil based on the videos.

I also did re-time it and it is now moves quite freely when fully opened and locks down tight and won't move at all at the other end. This is a good thing and the timing was probably was the root cause of my sticking problem. Frankly, as delivered this unit was still very tight even with the lever in the full open position. I will re-time it again in the future as needed as ARC version is really dead simple. Even for me!

Two comments...not even suggestions, just observations and nothing more.

1. I hate 2 mm hex head screws and yes, they are in every scope turret, etc, out there. The SOBs will strip in a NY second. The ones in the handle were apparently loctited, yeah? I didn't quite strip one of them, but close, and I use decent wrenches (Bondhus, which I believe is used in the video). I'm guessing I can contact RRS via the Contact page on your site to get a couple of extras...maybe?

2. The only sort of awkward bit was getting the upper brass washer (bearing surface??) positioned and staying in place while getting the small part of the handle positioned and inserting the main screw. I feel certain that anybody with any talent whatsoever and a modicum of coordination will be able to do this easily, but I found it somewhat frustrating. I did use a bit of oil to get it to stick to the housing while putting the lever/main screw back in but it def did take a handful of tries.

Thanks again, Michael! I do appreciate your taking the time to help an idiot like me with this simple task.

Cheers

 

[Baron23]

Wow, I did send an email last night via RRS SOAR Contact page on their site inquiring how to order handle screws and of course offering to pay for them.

Just now got an email that they are shipping and at no cost.

Thank you, RRS

 

[Burdy]

I could have sworn that RRS suggests that they be cleaned but dry (no lube) for best performance.

 

[Baron23]

I could have sworn that RRS suggests that they be cleaned but dry (no lube) for best performance.

I used a bit of spray silicon which dries but leaves the surface slick. I was a bit hesitant to use an oily type product as it seems to me that it would attract and hold dust/dirt.

It does seem that the root of my issue was that even wide open the timing of the release lever was such that it was still tight. Before taking it apart, I did try some CLP on the ball and worked it around well but it was still tight and balky during movement, hence my thinking it was a timing issue as the root cause and lack of lube was not really the issue

The newer ARC version of the Anvil is so very easy to time that it’s easy for me to adjust it further, one way or the other, as needed.

But I think I got it now.

 

[Killswitch Engage]

maintain your gear....gee who would have thought.

 

[dirtytough]

maintain your gear....gee who would have thought.

Yep exactly. I should of “maintained” it the third time using it. There is so much dust blowing around when it’s -10* out and the ground is snow covered.