Any Savage LRP owners think your trigger is the weakest link? Have you changed yours?

280nosler

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 30, 2011
237
0
47
North Carolina
Having put 300 rounds through my LRP now, I can honestly say the trigger seems to be the weakest component. I have 27 instances where my trigger pull was not fast enough to effectively reset the trigger and a slight living of the bolt, and reset and you are good to go. I have a slow and methodical sequence for firing (about 7 seconds), but my Savage is the weakest in the arsenal in terms of trigger. I have read others have had similar issues, and am getting close to ordering a replacement Timney.

Anybody else change out there LRP trigger? Gunsmith job, or easy enough to knock it out at home?
 
Don't know about the LRP or the Timney but I changed out a Stevens trigger (like 16 grit sandpaper) for a Rifle Basix Sav-1 and have never had any issues. I adjusted it to where I wanted then put a dab of blue loc-tite on the set screws and 900 rounds later it functions flawlessly.
 
Having put 300 rounds through my LRP now, I can honestly say the trigger seems to be the weakest component. I have 27 instances where my trigger pull was not fast enough to effectively reset the trigger and a slight living of the bolt, and reset and you are good to go. I have a slow and methodical sequence for firing (about 7 seconds), but my Savage is the weakest in the arsenal in terms of trigger. I have read others have had similar issues, and am getting close to ordering a replacement Timney.

Anybody else change out there LRP trigger? Gunsmith job, or easy enough to knock it out at home?

I have at least 2000 rounds out of my Savage with a Timney trigger and it is still as good as the day I put it in. I have had to re-adjust it once since install because it got too light but other than that it is fantastic.
 
If you're tripping it while pulling, you may not be pulling it perfectly straight back. I've done that numerous times. It was okay for bench work, but not for run-n-gun Tac matches. I've swapped out my LRP's Target Accu-trigger for a Rifle Basix, and have had no issues nor complaints. I still have the normal Accu-Trigger (24oz-4lbs) in my secondary rifle and it is heavy enough not to trip the disable mechanism easily nor frequently. So I haven't replaced it yet.
 
I have 27 instances where my trigger pull was not fast enough to effectively reset the trigger and a slight living of the bolt, and reset and you are good to go.

I don't understand this statement at all, but I will tell you my experience.

You should have a little rubber bumper underneath the bolt handle. If you don't, my guess is your trigger is locking up on you from time to time. That bumper is Savage's answer to the problem of trigger lock-up caused when working the bolt hard or slamming the bolt closed. When I first got my LRP, I set the trigger to 1lb and it was working like a gem. No matter how quick or hard I worked the bolt the trigger would not lock. It was really sweet. Then I noticed this little rubber bumper pad thing dropped out of the bolt. It took me a while to figure out where it came from, but without it, the trigger would constantly lockup unless working the bolt very very gently, which we don't do in this game. After researching, I found what the bumper is for. Mine wouldn't stay in, so I created a new one using some padded double sided tape and some felt on top. It's back to working very nicely again. You could also put a layer of silicone in the area as well. Some have just used a strip of leather.

With that being said, if I ever start having problems with it again, I won't hesitate to replace it with either an SSS or Rifle Basix trigger. Both are to be way better than the factory option.
 
I don't understand this statement at all, but I will tell you my experience.

You should have a little rubber bumper underneath the bolt handle. If you don't, my guess is your trigger is locking up on you from time to time. That bumper is Savage's answer to the problem of trigger lock-up caused when working the bolt hard or slamming the bolt closed. When I first got my LRP, I set the trigger to 1lb and it was working like a gem. No matter how quick or hard I worked the bolt the trigger would not lock. It was really sweet. Then I noticed this little rubber bumper pad thing dropped out of the bolt. It took me a while to figure out where it came from, but without it, the trigger would constantly lockup unless working the bolt very very gently, which we don't do in this game. After researching, I found what the bumper is for. Mine wouldn't stay in, so I created a new one using some padded double sided tape and some felt on top. It's back to working very nicely again. You could also put a layer of silicone in the area as well. Some have just used a strip of leather.

With that being said, if I ever start having problems with it again, I won't hesitate to replace it with either an SSS or Rifle Basix trigger. Both are to be way better than the factory option.
I have found that if you pull the trigger too slow, you can trip it without getting a proper release on the firing pin. I have done tests finding that if you pull it like a drive a car hard, it goes off every time. If you go slow, it sometimes will not trip. it will move back, and will need to be reset, but will not release the firing pin. I have heard about this before from other owners, limited of course, but I have read about this from at least 10 maybe 12 other users. Maybe I just need to send it back to Savage if it is that rare of an issue.
 
I have found that if you pull the trigger too slow, you can trip it without getting a proper release on the firing pin. I have done tests finding that if you pull it like a drive a car hard, it goes off every time. If you go slow, it sometimes will not trip. it will move back, and will need to be reset, but will not release the firing pin. I have heard about this before from other owners, limited of course, but I have read about this from at least 10 maybe 12 other users. Maybe I just need to send it back to Savage if it is that rare of an issue.

Gosh….that is so odd to me that I have to think you have a bad trigger. However, I would probably just replace the trigger before I would go through the pain of sending back to Savage and such. IMO…..The LRP is such a good shooting rifle that replacing the trigger will simply be a non-issue. My trigger is very satisfactory right now, but I will replace it in a heartbeat if it gives me any grief :)

Side note…I've tried to lock the trigger by not "Pulling Striaght Back", and can't even lock my trigger doing that. I probably could eventually lock it doing so, but it would be such an un-natural trigger pull which makes the point moot.
 
Last edited:
Make sure you squeeze the blade safety or whatever they call it all the way and don't hit the side of the trigger without it being compressed. This will cause a problem like you are describing. Trigger will lock back and need reset but firing pin will not be released because the "safety blade" wasn't compressed.
 
This very well could be part of the issue, but I still think a trigger change will be in order. I guess if all you shoot is a Savage accurtrigger, you would get used to it, but I have single and double stage triggers, and this is the red headed stepchild of the family.
 
This very well could be part of the issue, but I still think a trigger change will be in order. I guess if all you shoot is a Savage accurtrigger, you would get used to it, but I have single and double stage triggers, and this is the red headed stepchild of the family.

I hear ya….but if your LRP is giving you the same awesome results as mine; simply replace the trigger and get back to enjoying it :)
 
I hear ya….but if your LRP is giving you the same awesome results as mine; simply replace the trigger and get back to enjoying it :)

My LRP was able get get a 260 Remington (hand load) onto a bowling pin at 1000 yards 2 weeks ago. Granted, it took several to get there and I was holding 6 foot to the left for wind. I'm gonna get it on paper at 500 in the 2nd week of February.
 
I have a stevens 200 build that I had a SSS trigger put in and love it. Only down side is I heard ( no first hand experience ) that these triggers won't fit into some chassis with out some milling or mods. But as far as the trigger itself its great.
 
Sounds like you are pulling on the trigger without compressing the accutrigger blade, that means you are dragging on the trigger sidways - it's a bad technique that needs to be addressed. You can replace the trigger but it will not cure horizontal flyers.

Trigger Control | Art of the Rifle

I'd be willing to agree with you, and I am far from being professionally trained, however this has happened with 2 shooters (other than myself) on tHis gun, and for the last 100 rounds I have focused on this, and still had 6 instances.
 
I don't see any issue with removing the blade causing "NDs or lawsuits" - follow basic rules of firearm safety and you have nothing to worry about.

I've never had an Accutrigger hang up due to running the bolt too hard, but I have had issues with poor trigger pull technique pushing the trigger laterally and 'locking it up'...and that's part of the design of the Accutrigger.

Correcting the pull to straight back is a much simpler solution, or just replace it with a SAV-1 or SSS Competition trigger for a hundred bucks.