Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

[DIBBS]

I've been loading centerfire rifle for years, and have spent a fair amount of time reloading for revolvers. However, I've done nothing for auto pistols. I'm primarily looking for general tips since the cartridge headspaces on the case, and through a search I've come up with 5 or six powders that will work in both cases, but if you have a recommendation that is clean burning, provides good velocity, and fair load density in both cartridges(titegroup??), give me a recommendation. Thanks!

 

[cega]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

Titegroup. Has worked well for me in both 45ACP & .40S&W.

 

[SIG700]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

Another happy TiteGroup shooter here

 

[Bear24]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

I'm using Power Pistol for both. I was using bullseye but made the switch and never will go back. Burns clean, and I haven't done any chrono between the two but I'm positive I am getting better velocity with the PP.

 

[aloreman]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

hp 38 and unique

 

[TheRedHorseman]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

Accurate 2, accurate 5, hodgdon longshot.

 

[0311@LAR]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

Another vote for Power Pistol. I'm also gonna try some Winchester Autocomp real soon too.

 

[melloyello]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

Happy with Titegroup for 9mm and 45acp. I can't imagine it would be bad for 40s&w either. Make sure you put a decent crimp on the case for auto pistols. They tend to jostle the rounds quite a bit under recoil and you don't want the bullet walking around in the case. I prefer to use a Lee Factory Crimp Die on mine.
Also, if I remember correctly, older Glock 40 calibers didn't have good case support and would create a bulge in spent casings. This could prove dangerous with a couple of reloads. Some argue that it was a case of overcharging reloads. You do the research for yourself.

 

[dm1779]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

I've been real happy with Titegroup, but have also had good success with HS-6. I've also started using Clays for .40 S&W as it's a light load that is good for plinking.

 

[PSYOPS]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

Kind of off your topic, but this forum has some pretty decent pistol reloading information....

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?s=e192a8b78b678daa768acddf7d2c1acf&showforum=4

 

[MtnCreek]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

Be very careful with seating depth on the 40. Minor changes make for big pressure changes. HP38 is a good plinker powder for both. If you stay within the manual, you can run the 45 hot, assuming no damage from banging the slide, but always work up new loads. The 40 is not one to hotrod.

As you said, they space off the casemouth, so over crimping can cause issues. A few tho is all you need, if that much. With jasketed, I typically just crimp enough to remove the bell and only bell enough to seat the bullet w/o shaving any jacket.

 

[timesublime]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

W 231 is what I use. And invest in a Lee crimping die.

 

[Sniper Uncle]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: melloyello</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Happy with Titegroup for 9mm and 45acp. I can't imagine it would be bad for 40s&w either. Make sure you put a decent crimp on the case for auto pistols. They tend to jostle the rounds quite a bit under recoil and you don't want the bullet walking around in the case. I prefer to use a Lee Factory Crimp Die on mine.
Also, if I remember correctly, older Glock 40 calibers didn't have good case support and would create a bulge in spent casings. This could prove dangerous with a couple of reloads. Some argue that it was a case of overcharging reloads. You do the research for yourself.</div></div>

Curious, I haven't had problems with the bullets moving around from my recoil. I don't crimp my ACP rounds at all, the 9mm, 40, or 45's. I just flare them enough to get the bullet started without shaving, and when finished, the cases have no flare left. Once I didn't seat the bullets deep enough for my Para 45, and I had a devil of a time getting the slide to open after it chambered a round but wouldn't quite close. I ended up pulling the bullet out of the case, as it had wedged into the lands. I think the effort I had to exert to get the slide open shows that adequate neck tension was exerted on the bullets without crimping.
Am I thinking wrong??????

 

[Hookturnr]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

The crimping die for the auto rounds is a slight taper crimp the uniforms the case. It's not so much about neck tension as it is about uniforming the entire case to ensure proper function. I have to use it for my match chambered .45 or I get a few here n there that don't want to feed properly.

 

[milo 2.0]

Re: Any tips for loading .40 S&W and .45 auto

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hookturnr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The crimping die for the auto rounds is a slight taper crimp the uniforms the case. It's not so much about neck tension as it is about uniforming the entire case to ensure proper function. I have to use it for my match chambered .45 or I get a few here n there that don't want to feed properly. </div></div>
+1 on what hook says, you crimp for feeding issues. There was some advice about Lee crimp die, if it's a collet crimp, I'd stay away from it, taper crimp is what you need. and most dies have it built in.
As for powder, I only shoot 45, but ran out of 231 on a large batch one time, had to go buy a pound to finish. Only thing I could find was Ramshot Zip, didn't run any accuracy tests, pistol who cares, but it was the cleanest burning pistol powder I've seen.

 

[Pinecone]

WW231 or HP38 (same powder) will work for both.

But I found HS-6 works better in the .40.

 

[KYpatriot]

Anybody ever try Silhouette?

 

[MtnCreek]

"Anybody ever try Silhouette?"

It's my go to powder in .45acp. Meters great; it's texture is like fine sand. With Win LP primers I get single digit SD's. Accuracy is as good as I can shoot. A better pistol shot could tell you more about accuracy...

BTW: I no longer know how to wrap quotes. :-(

 

[427Cobra]

I use Titegroup and Clays in my G35, I shoot a ton of range brass, every single piece of 40 is run through a Lee Bulge Buster, this removes the bulge at the base of the case, throw away the crimping portion of the Lee Factory Crimp Die, add the Bulge Buster to what's left and use it every time, I like to crimp separately from seating, .421 works, Titegroup will work with 9 40 and 45, Clays is only for Minor Power Factore loads in 9 and 40 with heavy bullets, never used it in 45.