The drive through the Icefields Parkway is ok, but full of tourists. The drive through the Cassiar region of BC is way better, hardly anyone there and no cell service for hundreds of miles. The side trip to Stewart is pretty cool, and there's a glacier there you can look at on the way, albeit not as big as the tourist trap one north of Banf. The border was closed, so we couldn't go across to Hyder, but I'm sure it's open again now. If you do go through Cassiar and want a break from camping, look up
www.vinesandpuppies.ca. I did a tenting roadtrip with wife and kids to Whitehorse a couple years ago with a couple nights stay in Cassiar at one of the cabins. That was one of the ways I managed to sell my wife on tenting at other places along the way. The cabins are a bit rustic and definitely off grid, but it was pretty nice to show up at the end of the day to a home cooked dinner waiting for us and a real bed. The lady that does it all is pretty cool. There's still gravel sections along the main road, and the trip from Dease Lake to Telegraph Creek is all dirt/gravel I think. That road was washed out when we went, so we didn't get to go there, but it's just a side trip anyway. We had dirtbikes with, so my 9 year old son and I did some exploring around the old Cassiar asbestos mine. It's a good route if you want to get away from tourists and crowds, and don't mind missing out on driving the first part of the Alaska highway. As far as bringing guns, I'd be tempted to just not tell anyone. I live in Canada though, and don't have to deal with that particular border issue at least. Once you're away from cities though, most people have a much more practical attitude towards guns, even here in Canada.
Kristian