Has anyone here had a muzzle brake cerakoted? Wondering if it would hold up or come off after shooting a bit primarily in the ports?
Anyone ever cerakote a muzzle brake?
- Thread starter matchbook454
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People finish them in whatever custom finish their barelled action is all the time.
I can't explain how the finish holds up after countless rounds and after multiple times soaking it in chemicals to remove carbon.
I can't explain how the finish holds up after countless rounds and after multiple times soaking it in chemicals to remove carbon.
I have two muzzle Brakes from Muzzle Brakes & More - Beast 3 port Brake and both were cherakoted black and are holding up fine.
Here is one on my 6.5 Creedmoor
Here is one on my 6.5 Creedmoor
I have not had any material carbon buildup; however, I am shooting a bolt gun and have not put as many rounds downrange vs a semi-auto weapon. Maybe someone with a semi-auto will chime in?
I will also be putting this in a bolt gun. After only 240 rounds I had a decent amount of buildup and took a lot of effort to remove the carbon. I tried vinegar and water which removed the carbon better than Hoppes but it also removed some of the nitride finish on the brake. Was going to see if I could have APA re-coat the brake for me but then thought cerakote may be a better option.
I wonder how the high temperature automotive exhaust (headers) paint would hold up?
I feel that since muzzle blast is abrasive a paint might not hold up as well as cerakote. Not sure though.
Why do you care what happens in the ports? It’s a blast surface for gasses. It’s going to turn black after a few shots any way.
I’m hoping that cerakote will resist carbon buildup making cleaning easier. I’m not looking to do this entirely for appearance reasons. If cerakote, or even something less durable such as paint is applied and easily wears off then I’ll be back to square one with excessive carbon build up and a pain in the butt trying to remove it.
Prepping surfaces prior to cerakote requires blasting with aluminum oxide. The result is a porous surface. It most certainly should make carbon stick to the surface better.
What I was getting at earlier is who cares about the ports. You never need to clean them to a bare surface. Keep the excessive buildup at bay, but that doesn’t include cleaning to the metal surface.
they used to sell teflon repair paint but it must have been taken off the market...i can't seem to find it anywhere.
wonder if there's something similar out there?
wonder if there's something similar out there?
I just put the build together not long ago and have ~100 rounds down range.
Two pics showing the outside and another looking in the ports with a flashlight. This is the Beast 3 port 2 piece self timing version.
I have 3 titanium brakes cerakoted that I put on AR's. At the most I have a couple hundred rounds through one of them. The coating is fine but yes you still have to clean the carbon. I think it is fairly easy to clean with the coating.
Just wipe off the brake with your girlfriend's panties, kick her to the curb, get a new one and go to the range. Simple.
I've Cerakoted all my brakes and yes, they do get carboned up. Only thing it affects is getting the inside of my rifle case dirty. I just wipe down the exterior and I'm good to go. Has zero effect on performance.
I've Cerakoted all my brakes and yes, they do get carboned up. Only thing it affects is getting the inside of my rifle case dirty. I just wipe down the exterior and I'm good to go. Has zero effect on performance.
At first my muzzle brake looked like this:
And then after a range day it took a while to get the carbon off the ports. I'd use some 90% alcohol and wipe down the end of the barrel and after a few minutes it would be clean....then I slapped my forehead and said, "Rifles are tools to be used...not little princesses to be photographed."
Then I took a trip to Home Depot and now my muzzle brake looks like this:
Now...if there is a little discoloration at the end....who the duck cares? It actually makes it blend even better. Oh...and Cerakote laughs at your question of durability....laughs I say. That's some strong stuff.
And then after a range day it took a while to get the carbon off the ports. I'd use some 90% alcohol and wipe down the end of the barrel and after a few minutes it would be clean....then I slapped my forehead and said, "Rifles are tools to be used...not little princesses to be photographed."
Then I took a trip to Home Depot and now my muzzle brake looks like this:
Now...if there is a little discoloration at the end....who the duck cares? It actually makes it blend even better. Oh...and Cerakote laughs at your question of durability....laughs I say. That's some strong stuff.
All my MRAD barrels are finished in the same cerakote from end to end except the chamber section.
The inside of the brake turns black/grey and starts to seep out of the brake cuts eventually. Takes quite a bit to get it to do that though.
The inside of the brake turns black/grey and starts to seep out of the brake cuts eventually. Takes quite a bit to get it to do that though.
Random story: In Kosovo, I once took this chicks nylons to make an ARD for my scope with.
Win/win.
Hmmm......lessee...
1. Were they small enough without having to double them over ?
2. Nylons ? Aren't panties more expensive ?
3. Number 2 above; Wasn't that the "poor's" method of problem solving ?
Hmmm......lessee...
1. Were they small enough without having to double them over ?
2. Nylons ? Aren't panties more expensive ?
3. Number 2 above; Wasn't that the "poor's" method of problem solving ?
It was for a G3A3 that when issued was a shiny fucking black. We did everything we could to hide them. I don't think I would have been able to see through panties, but now, you have me needing to experiment.
In all seriousness, spray paint probably isn't a bad way to go. Although, mungy blends into the background better. I suppose if you want "showroom floor" appearance, just drag out the can of Krylon and hose it down. Otherwise, a sand blast cabinet and a bag of aluminum oxide can be your new friend.
I've had a few brakes coated. The key is to find someone who actually knows how to prep the brake before coating. Otherwise. you'll wonder why the hell you spent money on coating it. I got about 10 rounds out of 270 WSM and it went from black to black and silver. Spray paint, nitriding, parkerizing all work well if done right.
As for port cleaning, just shoot it and don't worry about it. If you're anal about having clean ports the best thing I have found is a Q-tip and Bore Tech Eliminator, soak it for 15-20 minutes wipe out and repeat as necessary.
As for port cleaning, just shoot it and don't worry about it. If you're anal about having clean ports the best thing I have found is a Q-tip and Bore Tech Eliminator, soak it for 15-20 minutes wipe out and repeat as necessary.
Silencer after a few thousand rounds. Same story with the mb. Carbon gets caked up on top of the cerakote, but fielding the gun scrapes the finish right off.
If you do it, do the high temp version though.
If you do it, do the high temp version though.
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I’ve been soaking in Hoppe’s and using a q-tip which is removing a little at a time. Ordered some Boretech C4 Carbon remover and hope that’ll work a little better.
Thanks for all the help and info guys as well as some laughs!?. I talked to a shop that does cerakote yesterday and they felt that the abrasive as of muzzle blast would remove the cerakote from the inside of the ports. It also sounds like I’m being overly anal about cleaning the ports. Just like keeping my equipment in good condition. I guess a brake isn’t meant to be babied!
I soaked my son's cerakoted MBM Beast brake in C4 after he had not cleaned it for over 3000 rounds. It took a couple of times over a week, but it came out looking like new. I keep a specimen bottle full of C4 just for soaking muzzle brakes. The carbon turns into a sludge and wipes right off.
I’ve been soaking mine since Saturday. Removing a little bit at a time with q-tips. I’ve only got 240 or so rounds through the brake though! Hoping the C4 works better than the Hoppes! I first soaked it in vinegar and water and that seemed to remove more quicker but I thought it was discoloring the finish on the brake. Turns out it really wasn’t. It’d been a long day and it was late. Eyes playing tricks on me. I’m getting old!?
CLR works great. Same idea as the Bore Tech Carbon Eliminator mentioned above. Let your brake soak in it for a few minutes, wipe off.
