Yes some of the best cans use different baffles in them. Go over to form 1.org and there is a list of all the vendors, a little research there and some questions and get all the info you need.
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I tried to go there a few times and I couldn't figure out where anything was??? I could only really see a few threads and that's it. I finally gave up trying to find anything there. Does it not really work unless you register or something?Yes some of the best cans use different baffles in them. Go over to form 1.org and there is a list of all the vendors, a little research there and some questions and get all the info you need.
Yes I think you need to make an account to view everything. Plus the site was new as of a few months ago so there wasn’t a lot of material, due to the fact that the original site got nuked because of commie server hosts or something. It’s been growing though and lots of info is there now with several recipes for the more standard caliber cans. Most guys there will definitely answer questions if you ask as well, but do a little research first since a lot of questions have already been answered. Overall it’s a pretty friendly community.I tried to go there a few times and I couldn't figure out where anything was??? I could only really see a few threads and that's it. I finally gave up trying to find anything there. Does it not really work unless you register or something?
Ok, I will register then. I just filed another form 1 last week and mailed off my prints today. Is the best way to just search key words to find threads that talk about it or what exactly? Thanks for the input btwYes I think you need to make an account to view everything. Plus the site was new as of a few months ago so there wasn’t a lot of material, due to the fact that the original site got nuked because of commie server hosts or something. It’s been growing though and lots of info is there now with several recipes for the more standard caliber cans. Most guys there will definitely answer questions if you ask as well, but do a little research first since a lot of questions have already been answered. Overall it’s a pretty friendly community.
I don't do FB so the site will have to do. Hopefully I will get some good info. I'd like to make one that works really well for a bolt gun and am considering 1.75" can. Don't want to muck up this thread though, so thank you for the helpYou need to register to see the forum and files on form1.org or join the form 1 builders group on FB. They have a list on there too and many of the guys are on both. Highly recommend using both as resources.
LoL on the can nameDude I’m probably one of the least mechanically savvy guys on the planet and I just built this two days ago. If I can manage this, I think the majority of people on here could. Lol.
You won't need 1.75od until you're up in some pretty large calibers. Most can be accomplished, successfully, with 1.625od.I don't do FB so the site will have to do. Hopefully I will get some good info. I'd like to make one that works really well for a bolt gun and am considering 1.75" can. Don't want to muck up this thread though, so thank you for the help
Thats a bold statement.Yes. JR Machine pro is your best source of parts. All made here in Wi, no chinesium cones.
I found that my state is one of few that bans them. So, maybe I’ll make one on the down low.Dude I’m probably one of the least mechanically savvy guys on the planet and I just built this two days ago. If I can manage this, I think the majority of people on here could. Lol.
I wish I had access to a lathe and mill I could useI tried checking out the form1 page but it’s not working on my phone. I’ll grab my pc and try and register. Thanks for the tips in this thread. Very helpful. Going to be researching a lightweight 6.5 and 30 cal can. I should have a TBAC U7 Gen 1 out of jail around Feb 2022, but I have access to a pretty nice lathe and mill so building one appeals to me.
1.5 OD x 8.5" long tube with 9 single clipped Dino Precision Cones. 3.25" ish BC, progressive spacing from .75" down to .375. is what I use on my Bergara 6.5 CM. Use a Dino medium for your BB. They weren't around when I built mine.I don't do FB so the site will have to do. Hopefully I will get some good info. I'd like to make one that works really well for a bolt gun and am considering 1.75" can. Don't want to muck up this thread though, so thank you for the help
My 300 mag can has a 4" bc, 1.5 ID.50* Dinos first half followed by PPA 50* super dupers work even better than all Dinos, also 3.25" is pretty big for BC unless you are trying to suppress 30 cal mag or bigger.
This market and sport is hard enough to keep going. Please don't advocate illegal actions in this thread, on this site, or any other for that matterI found that my state is one of few that bans them. So, maybe I’ll make one on the down low.lmfao
Did my first with a holder made from wood, a junky drill press, some round files, a drill, a pipe cutter, and sandpaper on a counter top.I wish I had access to a lathe and mill I could use
There is a software update/server migration, happening this weekend.I tried checking out the form1 page but it’s not working on my phone. I’ll grab my pc and try and register. Thanks for the tips in this thread. Very helpful. Going to be researching a lightweight 6.5 and 30 cal can. I should have a TBAC U7 Gen 1 out of jail around Feb 2022, but I have access to a pretty nice lathe and mill so building one appeals to me.
That is why I said unless you are trying to suppress 30 cal mag or bigger. Most cartridges that fit in a short action 2 1/2" --3" BC usually works pretty good.My 300 mag can has a 4" bc, 1.5 ID.
I wouldn’t do that whatsoever.I found that my state is one of few that bans them. So, maybe I’ll make one on the down low.lmfao
Your in Alabama so you mean a stick and rock right?I wish I had access to a lathe and mill I could use
Fair point, but it a 7.5 tube didn't give me as much as I wanted; 8.5 was a bit longer than needed.@oso1 I agree. 2.5-3" is probably the most versatile range for BC, in short (and some long) action cartridges
Yeah I know it can be done but it's a lot easier with lathe. I'm going to try on one of my medium wood lathes again. Last time it didn't drill well because it was pretty thick titanium and I didn't have the ideal bit. If that doesn't work, I will use my drill press I guess or maybe my gunsmith buddy will let me use his big lathe after hours or something. He'd do it but it would take forever because he's always got other stuff he's got his guy running. Kind of bs really because it doesn't take that long but maybe since he's more set up for it now it won't be an issue this timeDid my first with a holder made from wood, a junky drill press, some round files, a drill, a pipe cutter, and sandpaper on a counter top.
Yeah down here where us red necks do the elite space program stuff.....Your in Alabama so you mean a stick and rock right?
There are sweet jigs available. If you make it to the form1 board, check out Number40Fan , he'll have what you need. It will hold a drill bushing at center, so you can punch even a hand drill through it.Yeah I know it can be done but it's a lot easier with lathe. I'm going to try on one of my medium wood lathes again. Last time it didn't drill well because it was pretty thick titanium and I didn't have the ideal bit. If that doesn't work, I will use my drill press I guess or maybe my gunsmith buddy will let me use his big lathe after hours or something. He'd do it but it would take forever because he's always got other stuff he's got his guy running. Kind of bs really because it doesn't take that long but maybe since he's more set up for it now it won't be an issue this time
Please don't get me wrong; the can you listed is an awesome option. I love F1 because it allows me to tailor the can to a specific host.Fair point, but it a 7.5 tube didn't give me as much as I wanted; 8.5 was a bit longer than needed.
Right on, that might be what I do. I have registered and been there just a little bit. I did it on the computer instead of phone and it was much better. Thanks for the help!!! I appreciate it. My first form 1 can turned out very nice and it works well, but I think I can do much better and I want one with cups vs the way my other one is where the baffles screw together with a long skirt on each one.There are sweet jigs available. If you make it to the form1 board, check out Number40Fan , he'll have what you need. It will hold a drill bushing at center, so you can punch even a hand drill through it.
This was mine; .375 bore on the cone in the holder. Done with a step bit, and a Craftsman drill press that I can almost stop with my hand.....
View attachment 7740272
It's a damned fine option dammit.Please don't get me wrong; the can you listed is an awesome option. I love F1 because it allows me to tailor the can to a specific host.
Hey hey! I remember you then!It's a damned fine option dammit.Learned from Joe L before he was a celebrity (I was Ltdshooter40 on the old Form 1 board; I think I'm on the new ones too, but haven't been in a while).
First rule of clipping baffles is always clip always.Let’s talk about baffle clipping and venting for a moment since some of the people contributing to this thread have a lot more experience with this than others.
Clipping- Consensus seems to be that they help, potentially a lot and that single aligned clips are better than double. When digging around there are reports that either can potentially affect POI and accuracy, 2 less so than 1. For you guys that have clipped your baffles, have you seen a degradation in accuracy on your precision rifles? Has clipping caused a baffle strike? How much more effective (subjectively/objectively if you have measured) are clipped baffles compared to none? How much more effective is single clipping baffles than double clipping? Does alignment matter at all with double clipped baffles? Is double clipping the first baffle and then single clipping the rest the way to go?
Venting- Does venting a baffle also accomplish the same thing as clipping a baffle? Does venting have impacts of POI? The goal with venting appears to reduce overall pressure and equalize pressure in the can, which is helpful with back pressure in semi autos. Is there a downside. I.e. are vented baffles louder than non vented baffles?
Ultimately, if you have a rifle that shoots 1/3-1/2 MOA are you maintaining that accuracy using clipped, vented baffles?
I think it's pretty well agreed on that all baffles should be single clipped and aligned for most cans for pure sound performance purposes.Clip all baffles? Only some? Anyone ever tried the Griffin Armament “Eco-Flow” style?
Not to sound like a jackass, but the Form 1 community knows what works and has test data to prove it.Clip all baffles? Only some? Anyone ever tried the Griffin Armament “Eco-Flow” style?
You are correct, you nailed it, form 4 manufacturers make what sells and that is cans that work on multiple hosts while giving up suppression.Not to sound like a jackass, but the Form 1 community knows what works and has test data to prove it.
Keep in mind that Griffin and the other Form 4 manufacturers have a different charter than Form 1 builders. Their customers are dropping a healthy chunk of money and waiting close to a year for their cans. Therefore, they try to make them work across as many applications as possible and minimize POI shift, frequently at the expense of suppression. I own one of the previous gen Optimus and my better Form 1 cans blow it away, by a huge margin.
So, this is a mouthful. The guys have already nailed clipping, for the most part, so I won't repeat it. Always Be Clipping.Let’s talk about baffle clipping and venting for a moment since some of the people contributing to this thread have a lot more experience with this than others.
Clipping- Consensus seems to be that they help, potentially a lot and that single aligned clips are better than double. When digging around there are reports that either can potentially affect POI and accuracy, 2 less so than 1. For you guys that have clipped your baffles, have you seen a degradation in accuracy on your precision rifles? Has clipping caused a baffle strike? How much more effective (subjectively/objectively if you have measured) are clipped baffles compared to none? How much more effective is single clipping baffles than double clipping? Does alignment matter at all with double clipped baffles? Is double clipping the first baffle and then single clipping the rest the way to go?
Venting- Does venting a baffle also accomplish the same thing as clipping a baffle? Does venting have impacts of POI? The goal with venting appears to reduce overall pressure and equalize pressure in the can, which is helpful with back pressure in semi autos. Is there a downside. I.e. are vented baffles louder than non vented baffles?
Ultimately, if you have a rifle that shoots 1/3-1/2 MOA are you maintaining that accuracy using clipped, vented baffles?
That was a mouthful!I have no sound measuring equipment and have only directly compared two of my builds to commercial cans. My 7.5" all Dino 30 cal can was noticeably quieter than my friend's AAC 762. After just the first round he was amazed. Both on 16" carbine gas 556 guns. Other was my $180 5.9" XRT build versus the Sparrow on our 10/22s. Again the XRT seemed quiter with a much deeper pleasant tone. I was suprised by that as the XRT cones are a pretty standard design. For a first time quality kit I would go with the White Trash Tactical 7.5" MILF hunter kit. Everything is top notch. There are also skilled machinists that will trim the skirts of your cones for $5 each for those that want max performance with progressive spacing. Hawkstand is the man in that regard.
As mentioned, grab a Number40fan Jig and a vise.
The last $10 part of the equation is a membership to SilencerStudents Patreon channel. For $10 you will have access to hundreds of detailed videos addressing every possible question you could have.
My first build was a straight up copy of his Dino build. As a result, my next build was for a different system since there was no "improving" on that build. The first time I fired 300blk out supers with my Dino can, I was concerned I had a squib round! I also use adjustable gas blocks on all but one of my rifles. As a result, my rifles are quieter than most airguns with comparable recoil. Once I get on paper when sighting in a rifle I never again shoot it unsuppressed, except for my most recent "go-to" 14.5" build.
Perhaps the greatest part of Form 1 is building specifically what you want. My new build has a fixed gas block, but even with a vented charging handle and Vltor A5H3 the recoil and gas was more than I wanted with my 7.5" PPA Super Duper 556 can that stays on my wife's 10.5" AR.
I built a 5.5" K style can similiar to the YHM Turbo, but it utilizes 3 Dino baffles after the diffusion wall. The cones are drilled to 9/32, but to help with the back pressure I drilled the endcap to 3/8". Although I haven't had the opportunity to compare it head to head against the YHM I'm nearly certain it will have better suppression as well as better recoil and backpressure characteristics. Since the rifle is perfectly gassed unsuppressed, I went with a Bootleg adjustable BCG.
The part of the equation no one talks about it how filthy suppressed guns get. I can shoot a single mag suppressed and the receivers will accrue more fouling than 15 mags w/o the suppressor. That makes it more complex to balance gas settings. Being able to tailor a build makes for alot less "troubleshooting".
What is interesting, or would be; there are a lot of Dead Air owners on this site. If some of them were to shoot with a buddy with a similar Dino can........or even build one themselves.
That baffle design is definitely a proven winner.
The part of the equation no one talks about it how filthy suppressed guns get. I can shoot a single mag suppressed and the receivers will accrue more fouling than 15 mags w/o the suppressor. That makes it more complex to balance gas settings. Being able to tailor a build makes for alot less "troubleshooting".
I see a minimum POI shift with my form 1 suppressor with clipped baffles. I went a different route than a lot of people. My F1 is 1.5"x9.5", rather large. I have 9 baffles in it, the first 2 are SS and the rest are TI. I used a mixture of Radial and standard taper for shooting subs and supers. I performed what is called a Hybrid clip and they are staggard to one another. It's a large can and suppression is better than most of the commercial cans out there. This was the First suppressor I ever had, and I was super impressed with it, but had no baseline. In my first PRS match with my 6.5 Creed everyone was asking me what kind of can it was, they were amazed it was so quiet. Never been on a real DB meter with it, but its tone is very pleasant. The spaced makes the blast chamber, then stacked as many baffles as would fit into the tube.Let’s talk about baffle clipping and venting for a moment since some of the people contributing to this thread have a lot more experience with this than others.
Clipping- Consensus seems to be that they help, potentially a lot and that single aligned clips are better than double. When digging around there are reports that either can potentially affect POI and accuracy, 2 less so than 1. For you guys that have clipped your baffles, have you seen a degradation in accuracy on your precision rifles? Has clipping caused a baffle strike? How much more effective (subjectively/objectively if you have measured) are clipped baffles compared to none? How much more effective is single clipping baffles than double clipping? Does alignment matter at all with double clipped baffles? Is double clipping the first baffle and then single clipping the rest the way to go?
Venting- Does venting a baffle also accomplish the same thing as clipping a baffle? Does venting have impacts of POI? The goal with venting appears to reduce overall pressure and equalize pressure in the can, which is helpful with back pressure in semi autos. Is there a downside. I.e. are vented baffles louder than non vented baffles?
Ultimately, if you have a rifle that shoots 1/3-1/2 MOA are you maintaining that accuracy using clipped, vented baffles?
I have got a 8'' Maverick Precision Tube that I am planning on making a 6.5 Can with. I would love to pick your brain some if you dont mind. I was a member back on THE form1 thread back before it got shut down.I've built 5 F1 cans; damned things can be a bit addictive. If you're handy and can use a calculator, you can do your own and skip the kits. That opens you up to using the best cones, such as those from Dino Precision and Pure Performance Armory. Otherwise, I'd go with a White Trash Tactical kit.
Personally, I've always built mine from scratch. Three have Dino cones, one has mushroom baffles, and the other has cones that aren't so great. One Dino can lives on my HD 300BLK SBR; loudest thing, from the shooter's perspective, is the gun cycling. Similar designs have tested out at 120 dB. I've got an 8.5" Dino can that I use with my 6.5 CM bolt gun. Every time I take it to a group practice at my club, no less than three people come over and ask the brand, because they can't believe how quiet it is.
If you're serious about building, head to form1suppressors.net and definitely subscribe to Silencerstudent on the Tube or his Patreon.