I don't own a lathe and I've used a pull through for a M1 Garand so I know what I'm doing as far as using a reamer with a pull through but I've never just used a tap wrench and a reamer to do it. Can someone give me some advice on doing this please? I don't have a rod that will fit so I can't do the pull through method arg.
Gunsmithing Anyone ever use a reamer and a tap wrench to ream a .22 barrel?
- Thread starter RogueHk
- Start date
Don't do it that way, you need to support the shank of the reamer some way to keep it going in straight. Call a Gunsmith. Just my .05
see if pacific tool will make you a rod and reamer for pull threw, or like said above call a smith. Lee
I did it that way on my sons 1918 crackshot after I put a liner in it. I wasn't going for match grade, just a 5 year olds plinker.
Another "it can be done, and done well".
Did a 25-20 chamber this way. Takes a while and you have to be very careful with how its cut, but it can be done and if done right, just as well as if done on a lathe.
Use the largest tap wrench available. Mount the barrel in a vise and turn the vise on its side (and clamp it down), so that the barrel's muzzle is pointing down. Flood the barrel with a good cutting oil (non-sulphured is what I was told to use) and put a catch bucket/cup under the muzzle to catch the excess oil and cut metal chips. Using the weight of the tap wrench, insert the reamer into the bore and make a turn. Take note, DO NOT turn the reamer like a tap. Use light, downward pressure (not side to side). Twisting the reamer will cut an oblong (wallowed) chamber. Downward pressure with minimal twist can be done using your index and middle finger of each hand, placing them lightly on each tap wrench handle, and (as if you were tracing a circle that is the diameter of the tap wrench) turning the tap wrench/reamer 180*. Remove the reamer, clear the chips out of the chamber and add more cutting oil. Do these half turn/180* cuts until you have the proper depth of the chamber. The last few passes with the reamer should be almost feather light, as this will finish out/clean up the chamber of any tooling marks.
It will take some time to cut a chamber this way (even a small 22LR one), but it can be done and can be done with a very high quality finish. Just take your time, and as they used to say all the time, "pay attention to detail". As you do this, you'll begin to learn to "feel" the chamber being cut, and adjust accordingly. It's a kinesthetic skill, that you learn by sense of touch...like the gunsmiths did a century ago...
JMTCW...
Did a 25-20 chamber this way. Takes a while and you have to be very careful with how its cut, but it can be done and if done right, just as well as if done on a lathe.
Use the largest tap wrench available. Mount the barrel in a vise and turn the vise on its side (and clamp it down), so that the barrel's muzzle is pointing down. Flood the barrel with a good cutting oil (non-sulphured is what I was told to use) and put a catch bucket/cup under the muzzle to catch the excess oil and cut metal chips. Using the weight of the tap wrench, insert the reamer into the bore and make a turn. Take note, DO NOT turn the reamer like a tap. Use light, downward pressure (not side to side). Twisting the reamer will cut an oblong (wallowed) chamber. Downward pressure with minimal twist can be done using your index and middle finger of each hand, placing them lightly on each tap wrench handle, and (as if you were tracing a circle that is the diameter of the tap wrench) turning the tap wrench/reamer 180*. Remove the reamer, clear the chips out of the chamber and add more cutting oil. Do these half turn/180* cuts until you have the proper depth of the chamber. The last few passes with the reamer should be almost feather light, as this will finish out/clean up the chamber of any tooling marks.
It will take some time to cut a chamber this way (even a small 22LR one), but it can be done and can be done with a very high quality finish. Just take your time, and as they used to say all the time, "pay attention to detail". As you do this, you'll begin to learn to "feel" the chamber being cut, and adjust accordingly. It's a kinesthetic skill, that you learn by sense of touch...like the gunsmiths did a century ago...
JMTCW...
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So, uh... have you anything to actually add? Looking forward here, to having some wisdom expounded.
The right tool for the right job. A tap handle is for turning a tap, a lathe is used to ream a chamber. You encourage garage mechanic procedures and end up with half azz results, You are encouraging others to perform less than desirable tasks because you believe yours are satisfactory.
My daddy told me a long time ago, "a good man can do a fair job with poor tools, a fair man can do a fair job with good tools.". A tap handle is not a good tool for reaming a chamber, not even in the hands of a good man.
So now what bullmoose?
Interesting,.. my Grandfather instilled in me,...It's a poor craftsman that blames his tools. If mister G/M as you call them are satisfied with their results, what pray tell is wrong with that?
Wow. I suppose the unwashed masses are too stupid in your opinion to ream a chamber by hand; despite this being how it was done in the past? I think "tap handles" (as we refer to them) were used for reaming as well back in the day, so I'm unsure what you imply by "inferior work". Engraving can be done with a laser, more quickly and cheaper; but hand engraving still (IMHO) is a valid method (and some would argue better asthetically).
Your comment smacks of arrogance and a narrow minded approach of "how to do" something, not information. Just because folks don't perform a task the same as you, does not automatically imply it is of lesser quality or value.
I guess being a member of the American Custom Gunmakers Guild (how ever much that membership costs) buys a healthy dose of arrogance and a sip of head-up-ass, which you apparently have imbibed blissfully...
A " healthy dose of arrogance"???? Thanks, not being arrogant, only knowledgeable on the procedure after 40+ years as a machinist and gunmaker. I don't need your garage mechanic procedures when all you can do is criticize.
The posters who say it turned out okay are satisfied with the work, so be it. A pro would never think of doing something like that and charging for it. Only someone too cheap to have a professional do a job that could be done correctly is a garage mechanic in my book. I agree that everyone should learn things but at least learn the correct way. Yes, you can do it with a tap handle like they "used to do it in the old days" but things change for the better with time, that's why we get so much better accuracy now than 40 years ago. Remember, the right tool for the right job.
The posters who say it turned out okay are satisfied with the work, so be it. A pro would never think of doing something like that and charging for it. Only someone too cheap to have a professional do a job that could be done correctly is a garage mechanic in my book. I agree that everyone should learn things but at least learn the correct way. Yes, you can do it with a tap handle like they "used to do it in the old days" but things change for the better with time, that's why we get so much better accuracy now than 40 years ago. Remember, the right tool for the right job.
Did the OP do it for someone else, I never read it that way.
To cheap, I'm so cheap I'm still using my Grandfathers tooling he made to Re-Load yes Re-Load .22 LR ammo. If the world waited upon "professionals" to do everything for them, the world will come to a complete stop. As far as things changing for the better all the time, yes and no. Difference is now folks think they can buy in, w/o knowing anything,... about the subject matter at hand and, I'm sure you have seen that as well. One thing instilled in me is never, farm out what you can do for yourself. Now we have a world full of those who can do nothing, but throw money at some task,... they want completed yesterday.
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