I’m in the process of building my first at-308 style rifle. I have a m5 builders set from aero precision. Geissele ssa-e trigger, Luth-ar mba-1 butt stock ect... to top it off I have a ballistic advantage barrel in 6.5 creedmoor. I’m ready to assemble but wanted some suggestions as far as a vice block and an armory’s wrench? Would love some options and opinions.
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Ar-308 style build
- Thread starter JohnyFive3
- Start date
I use a pretty standard barrel vise clamp set, this set actually:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ols/ar-15-m16-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12470.aspx
I use that for flash hiders and such. For tightening the barrel nut down the absolute best way I've found is a Geiselle Reaction Rod. Like this:
https://geissele.com/ar10-sr25-reaction-rod.html
They make one for the AR15 and one for the AR10/SR25 system. Now these are fairly expensive. But if your going to be doing your own builds or barrel changes down the road they are worth every penny. They go through your upper and engage the locking logs of the barrel extension, no stress on the upper at all. Plus it helps to keep the receiver square. Otherwise, for $30 or so you can get the barrel vise clamp I mentioned up top and fasten the barrel that way, then snug your barrel nut to the upper.
I am not a big fan of the upper receiver clamps that hold the upper and when you torque the barrel nut down all that pressure of the barrel nut wrench is on the upper receiver or push pin lugs. After watching a guy snap a new Colt upper into 3 pieces using one of those plastic clamp on upper receiver blocks, I realized the barrel should always be clamped, not the upper.
Depending upon what type of handguard your using will dictate what type of barrel nut wrench you'll use. They normally have a square notch to place a torque wrench into to make sure you have your torque right. I would recommend a torque wrench ($50-$100) and a decent sized bench vise ($40) if you don't already have them. I always use Aeroshell 33MS on the upper threads and a light coat on the socket/barrel extension area. I don't like putting loctite on barrel extensions but some do, ymmv.
You can also find knock-off versions of the Geiselle reaction rod too. I cant speak to the quality but they are probably fine. I planned on buying my reaction rods then reselling them since they are so expensive. But after using them several times I wouldnt sell them, I love them.
Hope this helps out, I'm sure some more folks will have some good recommendations for you too. Good luck with your build.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ols/ar-15-m16-barrel-vise-jaws-prod12470.aspx
I use that for flash hiders and such. For tightening the barrel nut down the absolute best way I've found is a Geiselle Reaction Rod. Like this:
https://geissele.com/ar10-sr25-reaction-rod.html
They make one for the AR15 and one for the AR10/SR25 system. Now these are fairly expensive. But if your going to be doing your own builds or barrel changes down the road they are worth every penny. They go through your upper and engage the locking logs of the barrel extension, no stress on the upper at all. Plus it helps to keep the receiver square. Otherwise, for $30 or so you can get the barrel vise clamp I mentioned up top and fasten the barrel that way, then snug your barrel nut to the upper.
I am not a big fan of the upper receiver clamps that hold the upper and when you torque the barrel nut down all that pressure of the barrel nut wrench is on the upper receiver or push pin lugs. After watching a guy snap a new Colt upper into 3 pieces using one of those plastic clamp on upper receiver blocks, I realized the barrel should always be clamped, not the upper.
Depending upon what type of handguard your using will dictate what type of barrel nut wrench you'll use. They normally have a square notch to place a torque wrench into to make sure you have your torque right. I would recommend a torque wrench ($50-$100) and a decent sized bench vise ($40) if you don't already have them. I always use Aeroshell 33MS on the upper threads and a light coat on the socket/barrel extension area. I don't like putting loctite on barrel extensions but some do, ymmv.
You can also find knock-off versions of the Geiselle reaction rod too. I cant speak to the quality but they are probably fine. I planned on buying my reaction rods then reselling them since they are so expensive. But after using them several times I wouldnt sell them, I love them.
Hope this helps out, I'm sure some more folks will have some good recommendations for you too. Good luck with your build.
If your just looking for a good, all around armorers wrench I recommend this one:
https://shop.opticsplanet.com/magpu...KbeJIQlGsz4JvDUfN05HCnbI1xNbU3ZYaAp2nEALw_wcB
If you have multiple AR15s that have the delta ring/mil barrel nut these are the way to go. They also have the square notch for a torque wrench also, 1/2" drive I think. Beware of the cheapo eBay wrenches they don't always last. This wrench will cover most anything on an AR that requires torque and it will last. I have one on my bench and one in a backpack with the rest of my toolkit.
https://shop.opticsplanet.com/magpu...KbeJIQlGsz4JvDUfN05HCnbI1xNbU3ZYaAp2nEALw_wcB
If you have multiple AR15s that have the delta ring/mil barrel nut these are the way to go. They also have the square notch for a torque wrench also, 1/2" drive I think. Beware of the cheapo eBay wrenches they don't always last. This wrench will cover most anything on an AR that requires torque and it will last. I have one on my bench and one in a backpack with the rest of my toolkit.
I used the geissele shot show coupon to buy the reaction rod for my build. Theyre pricey but Ive been happy with the AR10 and the enhanced ar15 version (which braces against the ejection port) using the buy once cry once policy for tools. Ive installed 3 barrels with the AR10 wrench and about 20 with the AR15 wrench for myself and friends with no signs of damaging the upper or shearing off barrel alignment pins.
I have actually moved over to the Midwest Industries version of the reaction rod, the MI version has a additional part that runs the length of the Charging handle valley...
I still have the Geissele... but I prefer the MI version now a days.
Just letting everyone know there are options out there.
https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/MI-Upper-Receiver-Rod-308-p/mi-308urr.htm
I still have the Geissele... but I prefer the MI version now a days.
Just letting everyone know there are options out there.
https://www.midwestindustriesinc.com/MI-Upper-Receiver-Rod-308-p/mi-308urr.htm
I use this type of block for AR15 and AR10:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...cks/ar-15-ar-10-ar-vise-blocks-prod34109.aspx
So far they work for what I need with no drops or issues of any kind.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...cks/ar-15-ar-10-ar-vise-blocks-prod34109.aspx
So far they work for what I need with no drops or issues of any kind.
I have been reading a good bit about guys using geissele style to install barrels and actually shear their index pin off under the upper receiver slot. Im thinking the one above nay be better for barrel installs as it will hold the receiver, but the geissele style is better for rotating faster for everything else.
The Brownells is for torquing the extension onto the barrel, not working on the upper with their rod
gang aft agley in a vise.
