I put together an 18" AR15 as a precision semi auto. I used a fluted 1/8 barrel I picked up at a gun show. Loading 55 grain flat based nosler match hollow points I get keyholeing at about 80 yards. 55 grain ball ammo does not keyhole. Ideas?
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Possibly bad bullets coming apart but unlikely. I've shot plenty of 50gr vmax in a 1-7" ran really hot with no issues other than stellar accuracy. Twist isn't an issue and you don't have to shoot heavier bullets in that twist barrel.
I shot highpower for a few years and if you want to shoot magazine I'd recommend 69 or 77gr. I know they can be pushed pretty fast and know of people using 77 grain magazine length rounds through the 600 yard line competitively. I'm newer to this site and style of shooting. What is the advantage of light bullets. Other question is it possibly a smaller bullet ie 220 swift
I used a fluted 1/8 barrel I picked up at a gun show. Loading 55 grain flat based nosler match hollow points I get keyholeing at about 80 yards. 55 grain ball ammo does not keyhole. Ideas?
I shot highpower for a few years and if you want to shoot magazine I'd recommend 69 or 77gr. I know they can be pushed pretty fast and know of people using 77 grain magazine length rounds through the 600 yard line competitively. I'm newer to this site and style of shooting. What is the advantage of light bullets. Other question is it possibly a smaller bullet ie 220 swift
I suspect this is a hand loading issue, either bullets seated with too little neck tension to stay or be made concentric/on axis with cartridge case, and/or not seated deeply enough to assure bullet is concentric/on axis with case neck. With either condition severe bullet distortion will result as the bullet is forced to comply with axis of bore and upon bullet release it is too distorted to stabilize or to be stable for long.
I think everyone is assuming a twist of 1/8. Perhaps the OP could check (cleaning rod and close pins would be close enough)? 1/18 barrels are made (rimfire, but still .224), so it is at least possible, someone screwed up and grabbed the wrong twist blank....
I think everyone is assuming a twist of 1/8. Perhaps the OP could check (cleaning rod and close pins would be close enough)? 1/18 barrels are made (rimfire, but still .224), so it is at least possible, someone screwed up and grabbed the wrong twist blank....
Rimfire (.22) is .223 diameter not .224.
For 1:8 twist rate on a barrel you should be using A LOT heavier than 55 grain bullets, IMO.
Try 69-75 grain
Good points [MENTION=39164]MarinePMI[/MENTION] I hadn't thought about the popularity of rimfire uppers either, I'll stay tuned for an update
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For 1:8 twist rate on a barrel you should be using A LOT heavier than 55 grain bullets, IMO. Try 69-75 grain, and work up a load. What kind of powder and charge? Use a good .223 powder and buy heavier bullets. But at 80 yards it's most likely the powder or you are doing something wrong during reloading. Crimp/no crimp? Case lube cleaning? Sounds like powder not burning correctly / wrong powder type / not enough powder.
But I am a total noob so hopefully someone WAAAAAAYYYYY smarter and more experienced will be by shortly! (On other sites I am not necessarily a noob, on this site with the level of knowledge and experience I am noob sauce).
Folks, I like a good mystery, but this is not a mystery at all. Logic indicates hand loaded cartridges and/or bullets are not concentric. Bullets may have excessive run out. Any of this would cause the bullet to fly erratically upon clearing the bore as the bullet transitions from the bore axis to its own. Excessive yaw eats up so much energy that the bullet does not right itself and begins to tumble The effect is much like what you'd get from a burnt out barrel. I suspect the Nosler bullets are not over runs but just defective. After all, the problem is associated with a particular hand loaded bullet.