What’s everyone use? A little grease on the lugs and hammer/sear interface? And a drop if oil on the pins?
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Ar15 lube
- Thread starter deersniper
- Start date
I've been using G96 stuff now for cleaning and lubing. Gun Treatment for cleaning barrel/upper, Bio CLP for lubing lugs, bolt, extractor etc, and Bore solvent for Cu fouling. I also use Bore Tech Eliminator for barrels. Hoppes is still the best for removing Carbon fouling from my bolt-so I still use that. I've got a bunch of Lucas oil lube too I use on BCGs.
I use some stuff called TW25B made by Mil Comm on the BCG, etc seems to work well. A little oil in the trigger surfaces and on the pins.
Also use Bore Tech Eliminator to clean the barrel. I clean my stainless barrels every ~50ish rounds and chrome lined every 200 or so.
Also use Bore Tech Eliminator to clean the barrel. I clean my stainless barrels every ~50ish rounds and chrome lined every 200 or so.
Slip 2000 EWL, I’ve used lots of different kinds but still my favorite.
I lube those pins but a very light coat. Any wear or friction surfaces will get a little lube.
I’m talking about fcg. I shoot suppressed 100% of the time time and am in dusty conditions. So I use lube sparingly
So many products to choose from, most work well.
In all my years I have had 4 failures due to lubricants, 2 shotgun and 2 ar.
None of them were when using a hoppes product.
My father and grandfather tought me to clean guns in the 1960's and used hoppes.
Not arguing the best product, but am done testing and getting poor and inconsistant results.
Imho
www.hoppes.com
In all my years I have had 4 failures due to lubricants, 2 shotgun and 2 ar.
None of them were when using a hoppes product.
My father and grandfather tought me to clean guns in the 1960's and used hoppes.
Not arguing the best product, but am done testing and getting poor and inconsistant results.
Imho
Gun Cleaning Kits, Gunsmith Tools & Supplies | Hoppes
Shop Hoppes.com and find gun cleaners & lubricants, cleaning kits, Boresnake products & more to keep your gun at the top of it's game.
www.hoppes.com
Generally use some sort of grease - TW25B or Cherry Balmz.
Took it out of the work truck on a mid teens day and was having a lot of failures to feed.
Never really had cold issues before with my own ARs but they live a pampered life of living in a safe than maybe spending 7-8 hours in a car before they are shot.
My "cold sinked" AR that spends 24/7 in the vehicle certainly exhibited problems with grease lubes.
Now that AR is running Slip 2000 EWL - oil - at least through the winter.
Took it out of the work truck on a mid teens day and was having a lot of failures to feed.
Never really had cold issues before with my own ARs but they live a pampered life of living in a safe than maybe spending 7-8 hours in a car before they are shot.
My "cold sinked" AR that spends 24/7 in the vehicle certainly exhibited problems with grease lubes.
Now that AR is running Slip 2000 EWL - oil - at least through the winter.
I use Ballistol now. Lots of choices, almost hardly matters what you use:
As
Long
As
You
Use
It
Liberally.
For a recent example of dozens I have personally witnessed: Had some guns issued out to us the other weekend for an EX (instead of being able to use our guns... don't ask), and they ALL failed, badly, until we broke out our lubes and sprayed them down. Too dry as issued, didn't work. Literally zero cleaning or maint, just three squirts of lube*, cycle it half a dozen times to spread it out, reload and then even in 5°F weather, they all ran like a top.
(A few lubes are iffy, some or all greases are no good in very cold weather, but I'll not argue specifics myself, as long as you lube it a lot, and regularly).
* 1) BC locked back, up the magwell 2) Bolt forward, open the gun, spray bottom of BC 3) Spray on end of buffer.
As
Long
As
You
Use
It
Liberally.
For a recent example of dozens I have personally witnessed: Had some guns issued out to us the other weekend for an EX (instead of being able to use our guns... don't ask), and they ALL failed, badly, until we broke out our lubes and sprayed them down. Too dry as issued, didn't work. Literally zero cleaning or maint, just three squirts of lube*, cycle it half a dozen times to spread it out, reload and then even in 5°F weather, they all ran like a top.
(A few lubes are iffy, some or all greases are no good in very cold weather, but I'll not argue specifics myself, as long as you lube it a lot, and regularly).
* 1) BC locked back, up the magwell 2) Bolt forward, open the gun, spray bottom of BC 3) Spray on end of buffer.
When I was in the national guard and they felt like we didn't have enough to do, they made us clean every weapon in the armory.
The dehumidifier also had a habit of breaking with the brown barrel effect on the M-16s.
It seemed that for a while, we were cleaning weapons every drill weekend. I put mine away wet with oil.
One day the armorer told me to wipe off the oil. When I refused, he asked me why.
I told him, "Have you noticed that I'm the only one whose M-16 doesn't turn brown?"
He didn't say anything and took my weapon back to the rack.
BTW, I like the Mil-Comm grease on the BCG. Works fine and runs a long time.
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...t-oils/mil-comm-weapons-grease-prod24410.aspx
The dehumidifier also had a habit of breaking with the brown barrel effect on the M-16s.
It seemed that for a while, we were cleaning weapons every drill weekend. I put mine away wet with oil.
One day the armorer told me to wipe off the oil. When I refused, he asked me why.
I told him, "Have you noticed that I'm the only one whose M-16 doesn't turn brown?"
He didn't say anything and took my weapon back to the rack.
BTW, I like the Mil-Comm grease on the BCG. Works fine and runs a long time.
https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...t-oils/mil-comm-weapons-grease-prod24410.aspx
BLACK RIFLE BALM | CherryBalmz
Our Black Rifle Balm: Our best all-around lubricant - excellent on all centerfire rifles and handguns Provides roughly 10x the shooting on one application of lube over gun oils - ARs and centerfire pistols typically get 2000-4000 rounds on one lube job. Stays put, stays wet, and stays slick and...
www.cherrybalmz.com
BLACK RIFLE BALM | CherryBalmz
Our Black Rifle Balm: Our best all-around lubricant - excellent on all centerfire rifles and handguns Provides roughly 10x the shooting on one application of lube over gun oils - ARs and centerfire pistols typically get 2000-4000 rounds on one lube job. Stays put, stays wet, and stays slick and...
Like this stuff but it's what I removed from my frozen rifle.
Think they sell a LW version don't they?
Other than metal/metal contact surfaces they are right. Out here (NV), a heavily lubricated BCG is a dust magnet.
Would use this if in a sandy environment.
www.midwayusa.com
Militec-1 Synthetic Rust Preventative Metal Conditioner 8oz Liquid
Militec-1 Synthetic Rust Preventative and Metal Conditioner is a synthetic metal conditioner used by our troops in harsh environments. This rust...
www.midwayusa.com
Mobil 1, as mentioned before w/ a touch of syn. grease, here and there. Used this for 7 years w/ no malf. and it cleans up nicely. Mac
Wonder how something like this would work on the bcg?
Blaster 9.3 oz. Advanced Dry Lube Spray Lubricant 16-TDL - The Home Depot
Blaster Dry Lube is the best dry lubricant to keep your equipment in great condition with long-lasting protection. Blaster Dry Lube helps reduce friction and wear, protects surfaces and enhances performance.
www.homedepot.com
Wonder how something like this would work on the bcg?
Blaster 9.3 oz. Advanced Dry Lube Spray Lubricant 16-TDL - The Home Depot
Blaster Dry Lube is the best dry lubricant to keep your equipment in great condition with long-lasting protection. Blaster Dry Lube helps reduce friction and wear, protects surfaces and enhances performance.www.homedepot.com
I tried that stuff with another brand for another application and it sucked.
It was so "dry" nothing would move. I'd be afraid of it turning my AR-15 into a single shot rifle.
I still use it along with a little Mil-Com grease on the BCG and trigger surfaces.
If I remember right, compared to other lubes I have used, CLP has less viscosity and burns/dries up to quick. Cleaning / Lubricating / Protectant. Jack of all trades, master of none. Would rather use motor oil.
If I was still in and know what I know now, I would be using my own cleaners and lubes. Of course would have to disguise it in another bottle so the caged animals in the armory wouldn't see.
If I was still in and know what I know now, I would be using my own cleaners and lubes. Of course would have to disguise it in another bottle so the caged animals in the armory wouldn't see.
I use Slip 2k EWL or Lucas Extreme duty gun oil and run the bolt a bit wet. Both have worked well for me down to 0 degrees and seem to make the bolt easier to clean (my ARs are always run suppressed). I like Hornady One Shot for cleaning and lubing the trigger.
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I keep telling myself to go to Autozone and pick up a quart of the best synthetic diesel rated 5W-30 typ oil there is.
Deisels create way more pressure/heat/combustion and dirty fuel wastes than an AR for a longer period of time.
Got to think the detergent package lube properties would be pretty good.
1 quart = lifetime supply.
My preference for grease over oil though is grease doesnt fly all over my face/glasses while firing.
Deisels create way more pressure/heat/combustion and dirty fuel wastes than an AR for a longer period of time.
Got to think the detergent package lube properties would be pretty good.
1 quart = lifetime supply.
My preference for grease over oil though is grease doesnt fly all over my face/glasses while firing.
Random notes:
"CLP" means Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant. It is not a specific product. Several of them end in CLP.
If you mean Break Free CLP (and many do as it was popular, Army issue, etc) the key think that makes it work is teflon. Well, TFE. Little flakes of it are inside the bottle. Usually, at the bottom. Toss a spare screw, ball bearing, something into the bottle as an agitator. Shake it every 10 seconds or so as you use it. Sprays are similar: shake regularly. If you do that, the lube part works longer, and it's not bad. Without that you are getting the C and P bits and it's no so great an L.
I shoot a good bit at a range that is on a floodplain. Had classes and matches there where it's all blowing dust. From fine sand (and sand burrs!) to talcum powder level stuff which I think is actually powdered clay as you have to wash it off with soap and water. Never seen any run-it-dry people do well. Wet, and re-apply halfway through the day or else. Have heard similar from most people I know who went on shooting trips in Kuwait, Iraq, Afghanistan, etc.
There are new lubes all the time. If anyone wants to try a dry one, there's this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U30TFAS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I am trying it on bikes after many reviews and a friend who is bike crazy did a long term competitive torture test of that, another dry long-term lube, and a wax (!). Now, it's for gears and chains and stuff, but it does work for that, in all wx, etc. so it might be worth a try.
"CLP" means Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant. It is not a specific product. Several of them end in CLP.
If you mean Break Free CLP (and many do as it was popular, Army issue, etc) the key think that makes it work is teflon. Well, TFE. Little flakes of it are inside the bottle. Usually, at the bottom. Toss a spare screw, ball bearing, something into the bottle as an agitator. Shake it every 10 seconds or so as you use it. Sprays are similar: shake regularly. If you do that, the lube part works longer, and it's not bad. Without that you are getting the C and P bits and it's no so great an L.
I shoot a good bit at a range that is on a floodplain. Had classes and matches there where it's all blowing dust. From fine sand (and sand burrs!) to talcum powder level stuff which I think is actually powdered clay as you have to wash it off with soap and water. Never seen any run-it-dry people do well. Wet, and re-apply halfway through the day or else. Have heard similar from most people I know who went on shooting trips in Kuwait, Iraq, Afghanistan, etc.
There are new lubes all the time. If anyone wants to try a dry one, there's this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U30TFAS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I am trying it on bikes after many reviews and a friend who is bike crazy did a long term competitive torture test of that, another dry long-term lube, and a wax (!). Now, it's for gears and chains and stuff, but it does work for that, in all wx, etc. so it might be worth a try.
I run a 10.5 DDmk18 100% suppressed and mobile one has been great. It will see 2-300 rounds between cleaning and by the time I pull it apart to clean it the bcg is gross, but the lube is still there despite using it sparingly. I use the 5 weight and it has worked well on my SBE2 in the duck blind as well.
Maybe I'm the only one, but I run my bcg wet with Mobil 1 too. I just pour it in, cycle the action a few times and the first few shots blow oil all over .
tried all of the above. Had high hopes for weapon shield.
best one, leaving the least amount of buildup on the bolt and in the bolt carrier after 300 rounds,
RIG UNIVERSAL GUN GREASE. I was surprised for sure. Repeated the procedure 3 times in 2 AR15s.
best one, leaving the least amount of buildup on the bolt and in the bolt carrier after 300 rounds,
RIG UNIVERSAL GUN GREASE. I was surprised for sure. Repeated the procedure 3 times in 2 AR15s.
Otis Dry Lube on just about everything. Never do I run ANY of my weapons wet.
When temps here dip around below -15F - I switch to LAW...
When temps here dip around below -15F - I switch to LAW...
Funny that you ask, because I have recently gone down a rabbit hole of sorts in regard to this very thing. Before I get too deep into it, though, I will say that, as @Tono mentioned, CRC Electronics Cleaner has been my gold standard of degreasing products, for the reasons he mentions. Further, I have also been using Hornady One Shot in manners similar to what he describes.
That said, my current thinking, re: lubes is to use oils/greases that contain high amounts of molybdenum disulfide (MOS2) and/or graphite for the carrier and inside of the buffer tube, and an engine oil additive with a high level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphates (ZDDP) for the bolt/carrier bore. From the reading I've done, ZDDP leaves deposits/dry film lubricant behind as it wears.
I said all of the above to say this; for a build that I am finishing up now, the plan is to use a light coat of Jet Lube MP-50 on the inside of the upper and the exterior of the carrier, a healthy dollop of Slide Glide Heavy in the cam pin channel, a modest application of MP-50 on the bolt lugs, some of that high ZDDP oil additive on the bolt/in the bolt bore, and probably something like Machine Gunner's Lube on the inside of the buffer tube.
I freely admit that I'm likely overthinking the whole thing, but why the hell not... this is a hobby for me, and this is the kind of thing that I enjoy about it.
That said, my current thinking, re: lubes is to use oils/greases that contain high amounts of molybdenum disulfide (MOS2) and/or graphite for the carrier and inside of the buffer tube, and an engine oil additive with a high level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphates (ZDDP) for the bolt/carrier bore. From the reading I've done, ZDDP leaves deposits/dry film lubricant behind as it wears.
I said all of the above to say this; for a build that I am finishing up now, the plan is to use a light coat of Jet Lube MP-50 on the inside of the upper and the exterior of the carrier, a healthy dollop of Slide Glide Heavy in the cam pin channel, a modest application of MP-50 on the bolt lugs, some of that high ZDDP oil additive on the bolt/in the bolt bore, and probably something like Machine Gunner's Lube on the inside of the buffer tube.
I freely admit that I'm likely overthinking the whole thing, but why the hell not... this is a hobby for me, and this is the kind of thing that I enjoy about it.
Yeah, that's how I started using Mobil 1, BCG "wet", what a mistake that was, because I wear glass lensed glasses and I shoot a Rt. handed AR, Lt. handed and I get a face full, if I run mine wet. I only run my AR's "damp" now. I even run a "Gas Buster" CH, to help keep it minimized. Ever try to clean oil off of glass? A lot of shirt tails got stains on them, along with a lot of grumbling, LoL!
Mac
I've had great luck with any oil product I've tried including motor oil as long as it is kept very wet. Shot a two day match in 20-30 mph dust and just pulled the bolt and wiped down and oiled at lunch and at the end of each day. No failures. Racking the bolt sounded TERRIBLE but as long as it was oiled it worked.
-Dan
-Dan
Having ran guns in Phoenix area and Gila Bend bombing range for a couple of years I am familiar with sand and dust .
Texas has calichi dust that also turns to concrete mixed with oil or grease.
That mix will work for a while when hot, but one cold day and it's game over.
Texas has calichi dust that also turns to concrete mixed with oil or grease.
That mix will work for a while when hot, but one cold day and it's game over.
CLP, it's fairly cheap and plentiful. When you start having to buy the shit in spray bottle and keep a Marsh brush full at all times, PLUS the shit on hand for small arms, lube gets costly and hair difference matter less.
That said, TW25B is the BEST shit I've ever used, hands down. That Slip shit ain't bad either but the TW25B lube and grease is the end all be all to weapons lubes if you ask me.
I used to use some grease on engagement surfaces but have since stopped since all it does is trap dirt and dust and suppressors make all this worse and you wind up with gritty grease. Oil will at least allow that shit to fall away and/or it can be washed out with more oil. I pretty much reserve the greases I have for building and tearing down. Buffer tubes and barrel nuts --but a tube of antisieze or white lithium works just as well. White Lithium is what the TM called for initially and LSA or CLP for everything else.
Technically CLP was designed so military weapons could be cleaned, lubed and protected with the one item. You aren't supposed to use anything but CLP IIRC, although at NTC they have/had a weapons cleaning shed that has those large oderless mineral spirit drums with metal sinks on top --parts washers. But idea is after they're washed they get the shit lubed out of them, then excess wiped down. Note CLP builds up over time, so if you're constantly washing it out you're defeating the purpose of it. I wish I'd been made privy of this sooner than I was. When used properly it really is the best out there IMO. Unless you have a bottomless budget for TW25B.
I don't like auto lubes, safety aside, and I figure they all loaded with teflon so one is as safe as the next I guess, but auto lubes just smell like shit and the rifle smells bad enough already...
That said, TW25B is the BEST shit I've ever used, hands down. That Slip shit ain't bad either but the TW25B lube and grease is the end all be all to weapons lubes if you ask me.
I used to use some grease on engagement surfaces but have since stopped since all it does is trap dirt and dust and suppressors make all this worse and you wind up with gritty grease. Oil will at least allow that shit to fall away and/or it can be washed out with more oil. I pretty much reserve the greases I have for building and tearing down. Buffer tubes and barrel nuts --but a tube of antisieze or white lithium works just as well. White Lithium is what the TM called for initially and LSA or CLP for everything else.
Technically CLP was designed so military weapons could be cleaned, lubed and protected with the one item. You aren't supposed to use anything but CLP IIRC, although at NTC they have/had a weapons cleaning shed that has those large oderless mineral spirit drums with metal sinks on top --parts washers. But idea is after they're washed they get the shit lubed out of them, then excess wiped down. Note CLP builds up over time, so if you're constantly washing it out you're defeating the purpose of it. I wish I'd been made privy of this sooner than I was. When used properly it really is the best out there IMO. Unless you have a bottomless budget for TW25B.
I don't like auto lubes, safety aside, and I figure they all loaded with teflon so one is as safe as the next I guess, but auto lubes just smell like shit and the rifle smells bad enough already...
yep, love M1, I also mix M1 oil with M1 red grease and mix to a butter smooth consistency for anything that
requires grease. works great and I'll never use it all for about $7
I use some grease on certain things but for the most part i use a “clp” type product as well as ballistol. I like the ballistol for when im doing a lot of AR stuff and i can just spray a little more on as it cooks off. Thats just for “lubes” i have plenty of other stuff for cleaning. Bores usually get a boretech product.
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