Gunsmithing Armorer Tools

A

AngryKoala

Old Salt
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 30, 2020
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#1
I have always had a passion for guns but haven't had the time nor financial means to explore building my own until now. I have searched around the web for comprehensive tool lists that someone would need to perform the task of AR15 or 10 assembly from stripped lowers and uppers.

I am not looking for this to be a one off as I plan to build and explore the rest of my life. I am also a buy once cry once type of guy so could someone please provide a list for this type of work (tried the search feature on here earlier). Looking for tools that will last a lifetime (or at least have a lifetime warranty).

Thank you in advance and constructive criticism is always welcomed.
 
#2
Tools evolve from need. Different manufacturers may require different bits.
Most "kits" are a bit lackluster but offer a starting point.

For AR type you don't need alot. Look at brownells if you want a kit.
 
#3
Not much needed. Upper and lower receiver blocks, roll pin punches...
Some is dependent on the parts, like the handguard you select.
Recommend Glenn Zedicker's book. Together with online videos you'll figure it out.
 
#4
Appreciate the responses. Probably going with PB Swiss, the Swiss grips just feel great (brother has a screw driver set)
Looking around I think its hard to beat brownells offerings for roll pin punches. Pin punches, probably go with Mayhew.
Magpul Armorers wrench gets good reviews.

Figure this is a good starting point.
 
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#5
I built my first couple of ARs using nothing more than a hammer and screw driver. Specialized tools reduce frustration and make it easier to build but the end results are the same. With tools I was timed building ARs when I helped out a local shop. With proper tools it took about 12 minutes on average to build a lower. Without proper tools it would take me 45 minutes, most of it spent looking for the detent that launched itself at escape velocity from this dimension.

Best part is you do not have to spend a ton all at once. Buy the tools as you need them, learn to use them then help others that don’t have their own tools.

I was part of a board where we putting together an armor’s pack that would be mailed out to verified members for them to use.
 
#6
Dolomite_Supafly said:
I built my first couple of ARs using nothing more than a hammer and screw driver. Specialized tools reduce frustration and make it easier to build but the end results are the same. With tools I was timed building ARs when I helped out a local shop. With proper tools it took about 12 minutes on average to build a lower. Without proper tools it would take me 45 minutes, most of it spent looking for the detent that launched itself at escape velocity from this dimension.

Best part is you do not have to spend a ton all at once. Buy the tools as you need them, learn to use them then help others that don’t have their own tools.

I was part of a board where we putting together an armor’s pack that would be mailed out to verified members for them to use.
Click to expand...

How would you install a barrel or properly torque a castle nut with only a hammer and a screw driver? I know the pins can be installed/removed without all the fancy punches.
Not trying to argue and I agree I should only get the bare bones to finish the job until I get more experience but I also want to make sure things are done to spec.
 
#7
AngryKoala said:
Appreciate the responses. Probably going with PB Swiss, the Swiss grips just feel great (brother has a screw driver set)
Looking around I think its hard to beat brownells offerings for roll pin punches. Pin punches, probably go with Mayhew.
Magpul Armorers wrench gets good reviews.

Figure this is a good starting point.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I made the mistake of buying all the must have kits, and tools. I probably use 2 "specialty tools. if your in the biz of making guns for others, the extreme tools might make sense, but, screw driver, hammer, allen wrenches, common sense and youtube is all you "need"!
 
#8
For me a good vice mounted rigidly to a heavy work bench comes in handy more times than not.
Sounds like you have most figured out. I will through a torque wrench out there. So many times people over torque things which doesn't accomplish anything other than frustration later. Doesn't have to be a gunsmith specific one. I use the same snap on ones that I also use for mechanics projects. If you can calibrate them that is a huge plus. Luckily I have access to a calibrated load cell at work so I can keep checking mine.
 
#9
atvman400 said:
For me a good vice mounted rigidly to a heavy work bench comes in handy more times than not.
Sounds like you have most figured out. I will through a torque wrench out there. So many times people over torque things which doesn't accomplish anything other than frustration later. Doesn't have to be a gunsmith specific one. I use the same snap on ones that I also use for mechanics projects. If you can calibrate them that is a huge plus. Luckily I have access to a calibrated load cell at work so I can keep checking mine.
Click to expand...
Yea,
I agree with you on the vice and torque wrench. The vice I have now is a cheap harbor freight. Its hard to justify the cost of a Wilton but I haven't used one so maybe its worth it.
Looking at getting a torque wrench and a torque screwdriver (scope mount). My brother said to go with snap on, not sure what to go for on the screwdriver. Scope mounts screws seem to vary between 20 to 50psi and most torquing screwdrivers are 5-40. There are a bunch of different brands, not sure if German is the way to go.
 
#10
Not Pounds per Square Inch (psi) which is a pressure like what you fill your tires to. Torque is a force times distance. Force is usually pounds (lbs) in the US because we are idiots and can't figure out Newtons like the rest of the world. Distance is usually inchs or feet in the US again. In lbs or ft lbs are the normal units for torque in the US. Sorry for the rant. My engineering OCD at work.
Wheeler makes a popular torque screwdriver. Search google for Wiha adjustable torque screw driver. I haven't used but I'm sure it is a good one as Wiha makes some of the best screw drivers I have used. Otherwise their are torque sticks like Fix It Sticks for each popular torque value. Again I have not used Fix It Sticks in particular just torque sticks in a manufacturing environment and they are pretty idiot proof as long as you use the correct one.
 
#11
atvman400 said:
Not Pounds per Square Inch (psi) which is a pressure like what you fill your tires to. Torque is a force times distance. Force is usually pounds (lbs) in the US because we are idiots and can't figure out Newtons like the rest of the world. Distance is usually inchs or feet in the US again. In lbs or ft lbs are the normal units for torque in the US. Sorry for the rant. My engineering OCD at work.
Wheeler makes a popular torque screwdriver. Search google for Wiha adjustable torque screw driver. I haven't used but I'm sure it is a good one as Wiha makes some of the best screw drivers I have used. Otherwise their are torque sticks like Fix It Sticks for each popular torque value. Again I have not used Fix It Sticks in particular just torque sticks in a manufacturing environment and they are pretty idiot proof as long as you use the correct one.
Click to expand...
You are correct, sorry for the ignorance. I am a Chemist so I do not deal with those units often but I do understand the unit struggle (It is annoying converting everything to non-metric for U.S. customers). I have heard good things about Wiha, Wera ect so I will check them out. Thank you for the guidance.
 
#12
The one oddball I'll give you is buy a 1/4" clevis pin. You use that to put in the front pivot pin. Push the spring and plunger through the hole, twist it a half turn and it holds them in. This lets you simply "swap" the clevis pin with your pivot pin.

Other than that the tools are fairly standard. I will say buy an EZ Jig if you do 80% or something similar unless you've got mill access. I've done cheapies on a drill press and while you can get a working gun from it the epxerience is not altogether great. They're very much a crude tool.
 
#13
AngryKoala said:
How would you install a barrel or properly torque a castle nut with only a hammer and a screw driver? I know the pins can be installed/removed without all the fancy punches.
Not trying to argue and I agree I should only get the bare bones to finish the job until I get more experience but I also want to make sure things are done to spec.
Click to expand...

Use the screw driver as a punch and pound on the castle or barrel nut until it doesn't tighten anymore. Need more torque, use a bigger hammer. I never had a problem and never broke anything but I use tools now because they make it easier.
 
#14
#15
Agree with not over-buying specialty tools to start. Crazy as it sounds, I think it's actually better to assemble your first AR or 2 having to do things "the hard way" with less specialty tools. As you struggle with it a bit and figure out workarounds, you actually learn more about how the parts and assemblies interact, and it gives you more of a sense of what specialty tools would save you the most time in the future.

I put my first lower together just using ordinary household tools--screwdriver with bits, a hammer/mallet combo, a multitool with pliers or a needlenose, etc. A sturdy gun vise or bench vise with soft jaws will come in handy. The suggestion to get a set of quality punches is good, those are useful for all kinds of firearm things.

Two tools to eventually add to your arsenal, I found the first awesome for AR's, the 2nd is useful for working all kinds of gun-related and other tasks around the house:

* Tapco AR15 Armorer's wrench (my fave general purpose armorer's wrench)
* Torque wrench in the 10 - 75 inch-pound range (this is almost the perfect range and will handle 99% of optics mounting and firearms related torque tasks). I really like my Lyman Pro drive 10-80 inch-lb torque wrench. I realized the other day it was made in China, I've been trying to avoid buying any Chinese-made products but in this case I actually thought it was US-made and didn't realize until later. Anyway it's still a great wrench. If you can find a US or US-ally made equivalent, even better. Brownells carries a Seekonk that is 10-75 inch-lb that is extremely high accuracy and US-made, but wow $200 for a wrench!
 
#16
CDI is the commercial line of Snap-On. Those are the torque wrenches I have.

Proto and SK are also excellent. Wiha and Wera are of European manufacture and are fine quality,too.

Cheap precision tools are no bargain. Just my opinion.
 
#17
OutThere said:
CDI is the commercial line of Snap-On. Those are the torque wrenches I have.

Proto and SK are also excellent. Wiha and Wera are of European manufacture and are fine quality,too.

Cheap precision tools are no bargain. Just my opinion.
Click to expand...
100% agree, trying to find a good torquing screwdriver driver. The Wera had questionable reviews, PB Swiss's doesn't go up high enough....the search continues.
 
#19
Tono said:
For years I was using a small, cheap vise. It worked, but was not a functional as I liked.

I recently purchased the WEN MPV500 5 Inch multi purpose vise with a rotating head. The head can be rotated to any angle and locked. It can be used to hold items both horizontally and vertically.

You can buy the vise directly from Wen at a great price, $76.94. Free shipping... no tax at least for Texas residents...

https://wenproducts.com/products/5-...egree-swivel-base?_pos=1&_sid=853ba7201&_ss=r

View attachment 7447404

Click to expand...


So what is the difference between this and something like the wilton? Why does the Wilton cost so much compared to other Vises and is it worth that cost from a durability stand point?
 
#20
keenedge said:
I've been looking for a small compact CDI to cover the range of my Lyman for optics/firearms stuff (say 10-80 in/lb), and another to cover the range beyond that.

Any you'd recommend?
Click to expand...

I’ve had good experiences with the Borka Tools adjustable in/lb torque wrench set as an alternative to a torque screwdriver.
 
#21
AngryKoala said:
Yea,
I agree with you on the vice and torque wrench. The vice I have now is a cheap harbor freight. Its hard to justify the cost of a Wilton but I haven't used one so maybe its worth it.
Looking at getting a torque wrench and a torque screwdriver (scope mount). My brother said to go with snap on, not sure what to go for on the screwdriver. Scope mounts screws seem to vary between 20 to 50psi and most torquing screwdrivers are 5-40. There are a bunch of different brands, not sure if German is the way to go.
Click to expand...
So many good old wiltons on Craig’s list. It’s worth it. I bought a 1943 for 150 bucks. Took some time to restore it. Worth every penny.
 
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#23
keenedge said:
I've been looking for a small compact CDI to cover the range of my Lyman for optics/firearms stuff (say 10-80 in/lb), and another to cover the range beyond that.

Any you'd recommend?
Click to expand...
For firearms, I use a CDI Torque screwdriver, model 401SM,(5-40 in/lb), it takes the common 1/4" bits.
I also use a CDI Torque wrench, model 1502 MRMH,(20-150 in/lb). This one is a 3/8" drive. They also make a 1/4 " drive version.
I already had the 3/8" version, so I use that.
 
#26
AngryKoala said:
Which one would be recommended for gunsmithing? They have a bunch of different models.
Click to expand...
4” or 6” jaw. This is a 4 I bought recently I’m going to restore.
image.jpg
 
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#27
Just yesterday showed my son how to make a good tool from a zip tie.

Drill a hole nice and strait through a zip tie to match your roll pins.

Start the roll pin in the zip tie and have it protrude slightly.

Easy to start roll pins with till you figure out where the damn roll pin starter set went.

A set of pin punches
A set of roll pin punches
Roll pin starter set (magnetic)

The detent tool for the take down pin, trust me.

The flat sided set of punches for the bolt catch.

Wheeler fat wrench (screw driver) to torque scope screws etc.

Armorers wrench
Torque wrench

Upper clamshell holding block
Lower holding block

Slave pin to hold trigger springs / trigger

Ani seize
Locktite
Rocksett

A decent working vice
A set of magnetic soft vice jaws
Small hammer

That is about all I use

There are some upgrades
Scope ring lapping
Reciever lapping.

Brownells and Midway have it all.
 
Last edited:
#28
OutThere said:
For firearms, I use a CDI Torque screwdriver, model 401SM,(5-40 in/lb), it takes the common 1/4" bits.
I also use a CDI Torque wrench, model 1502 MRMH,(20-150 in/lb). This one is a 3/8" drive. They also make a 1/4 " drive version.
I already had the 3/8" version, so I use that.
Click to expand...

Thanks, checking those, also looking at a couple of CDI's that have the dial, it's a similar design just different ranges:
* CDI 1502LDIN 3/8 (0-150 in/lb)
* CDI Torque 751LDIN (0-75 in/lb)

You seen these, any idea on whether it makes sense to just get the one with the larger range?
 
#29
Snuby642 said:
Just yesterday showed my son how to make a good tool from a zip tie.

Drill a hole nice and strait through a zip tie to match your roll pins.

Start the roll pin in the zip tie and have it protrude slightly.

Easy to start roll pins with till you figure out where the damn roll pin starter set went.

A set of pin punches
A set of roll pin punches
Roll pin starter set (magnetic)

The detent tool for the take down pin, trust me.

The flat sided set of punches for the bolt catch.

Wheeler fat wrench (screw driver) to torque scope screws etc.

Armorers wrench
Torque wrench

Upper clamshell holding block
Lower holding block

Slave pin to hold trigger springs / trigger

Ani seize
Locktite
Rocksett

A decent working vice
A set of magnetic soft vice jaws
Small hammer

That is about all I use

There are some upgrades
Scope ring lapping
Reciever lapping.

Brownells and Midway have it all.
Click to expand...
Great list
 
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#30
keenedge said:
Thanks, checking those, also looking at a couple of CDI's that have the dial, it's a similar design just different ranges:
* CDI 1502LDIN 3/8 (0-150 in/lb)
* CDI Torque 751LDIN (0-75 in/lb)

You seen these, any idea on whether it makes sense to just get the one with the larger range?
Click to expand...
I'm not a fan of dial-type. I find the click-type much easier to use.
 
#31
This is the one I use 95% of the time:

:
Versa-Vise.jpg


There's a current version, (Chinese) with the trade-name Fox. Not as well-made, but cheap and will do the job.

I also have a 4" Wilton for bigger jobs.
 
#32
Snuby642 said:
Small hammer
Click to expand...
I will be making that zip tie tool this afternoon.

About the small hammer, I use a roll-up leather or rawhide type - look for garland leather mallet or osborne rawhide. Mine is pretty small. I start the roll pin into the hole with my fingers and then smack it with the leather hammer. It is driven a goodly distance into the hole. Smack it a couple more times in order to drive it most of the way then drive it home with correct-sized punch. This works better than a metal hammer (and, I suspect, Delrin-faced hammer) because the leather hammer doesn't deform the pin or mar the finish.

I think that your nifty zip-tie tool will prevent the occasional "ballistic roll pin", an event best addressed with a box of roll pins.

The roll pins I dislike the most: ejector pins in AR and Remington 700 bolts and that nasty one that holds the AR bolt catch. I think that one is a bad design.

There are magnetic roll pin starters?
 
#33
16033080539673121691993710251359.jpg


My small hammer, a set of wheeler flat sided punches for that pesky bolt catch pin.

On the ring is the wheeler pivot pin detent tool.

Definitely worth the money unless you have machine shop to make your own.

Here is another tool my son made with a hacksaw and super glue.
1/4 inch by 8/32 stand offs cut and glued into cheap bit holder.

16033095794874308713927016856417.jpg
 
#39
A reaction rod (Geissele or MidWest Industries which is better) and some vise block upper / lower stabilizers and after a while you will fabricate some simple tools to make some of the critical tasks easier. Consider replacing the bolt release roll pin with a set screw as many mfg.'s are now doing; roll pins need to be long much longer than Brownells offering for this task. Simple hardware store brass or delrin "bench blocks"to prevent trigger guard roll pin installation from screwing up the lower when the "ear" breaks off before your eyes. A variety of receiver extension castle nut wrenches. E/C-clip tool for bolt cover installations. Consider the easy conversion of take down pin spring retention with a 4-40 set screw so it does not go missing upon disassembly.
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