AXSR Extraction / Stiff Bolt Unlock Question

[wisey113]

I recently went to zero a new 6.5 Proof Barrel on my AXSR. Unlocking the bolt and extracting the spent case was not easy. In fact it required me to come up from behind the rifle multiple times just to get enough force to get the bolt to unlock and the case to extract.

If I cycle snap caps, dummy rounds, or the same spent brass through the action without pulling the trigger, it's smooth as butter. However once the trigger is pulled, extracting the casing and unlocking the bolt becomes significantly harder. I'm talking going from barely having to apply force to the bolt handle, to sometimes having to give it a light tap to get it to unlock.

Any ideas what may be causing this? Thanks in advance.

 

[SkyScrapin]

Only happens on a spent round?

Could be a burr or over pressure. See if you can chamber a spent round and then extract it. Then see if you can do the same, but this time pulling the trigger on a fired casing.

 

[wisey113]

Only happens on a spent round?

Could be a burr or over pressure. See if you can chamber a spent round and then extract it. Then see if you can do the same, but this time pulling the trigger on a fired casing.

I used the same spent casings I was having the issues with. Without pulling the trigger, no issues, pulling the trigger, very stiff to unlock.

 

[BuLLet]

Strip the bolt and clean it.

How many rounds have you fired, or dry fired this rifle?

 

[Rhed]

Is this reloads or over the shelve ammo?

 

[hk401]

Samething. Mine cleaned and after 20 rounds 300prc factory ammo and the bolt bolt stuck pretty hard.

 

[wisey113]

Strip the bolt and clean it.

How many rounds have you fired, or dry fired this rifle?

60 Rounds of Hornady Factory Match so far.

 

[wisey113]

Is this reloads or over the shelve ammo?

Factory Match. I'm hoping maybe if I work up some dedicated loads, it will ease up.

 

[BuLLet]

My two AXSR's and ASR don't exhibit difficultly opening after dry firing, or live firing.

I'm guessing it could just still be braking in. Has the force changed since first getting the rifle?

60 Rounds of Hornady Factory Match so far.

 

[wisey113]

My two AXSR's and ASR don't exhibit difficultly opening after dry firing, or live firing.

I'm guessing it could just still be braking in. Has the force changed since first getting the rifle?

These are the first 60 rounds I've put through it. I'm going to work up some loads, shoot it some more and see if it just needs time to break in like you said.

 

[BuLLet]

Dry fire it some more....

These are the first 60 rounds I've put through it. I'm going to work up some loads, shoot it some more and see if it just needs time to break in like you said.

 

[trophyhunter]

These are the first 60 rounds I've put through it. I'm going to work up some loads, shoot it some more and see if it just needs time to break in like you said.

Have you owned an AI before?

 

[wisey113]

Have you owned an AI before?

Nope. This is my first one.

 

[spife7980]

What about just an empty chamber?
Is it actually something chamber related or is it trigger related.

 

[Huskydriver]

Have you owned an AI before?

Some people don't think that 60 degree lift be like be but it do

 

[trophyhunter]

Nope. This is my first one.

Reason I ask is cause AI’s aren’t the easiest to lift as compared to some other actions. I don’t know about having to use force to lift the bolt but it will be a different force then a 700 action cause of the 60*.

When you dry fire, with nothing in chamber, snaps, empty case, nada, is it “hard” to lift?

For smooth operation of opening an AI bolt, besides it increasing your sex drive, I would use my thumb as leverage to open. Ex: after fire, place your thumb on top flat behind action on chassis, with all your fingers extended from just letting go of grip, swing your fingers up, contact bolt, while uisng your thumb as leverage, and lift the knob pulling back.

Most tend to remove hand from grip/chassis thus gripping the knob with a closed fist resulting in lifting entire rifle to open the bolt.

 

[wisey113]

What about just an empty chamber?
Is it actually something chamber related or is it trigger related.

Empty chamber it’s super smooth and no effort at all.

 

[SkyScrapin]

Empty chamber it’s super smooth and no effort at all.

How about after dry firing?

 

[Swiftt]

Whatever happened with this? I have one with very stiff bolt after dry fire, to the point I have to hold the rifle down with one hand and open it with the other closed fist. My wife who is a shooter herself cannot open it at all. I take it apart and oil it and it gets much better but returns.

 

[lte82]

Whatever happened with this? I have one with very stiff bolt after dry fire, to the point I have to hold the rifle down with one hand and open it with the other closed fist. My wife who is a shooter herself cannot open it at all. I take it apart and oil it and it gets much better but returns.

Post a pic of the cocking ramp. Do you have any grease on that? Also pull the firing pin assembly and post a pic of what that looks like.

AI's definitely have a break in period, and my AXSR definitely has a bit more bolt lift than the short action AT I have, but neither require excessive force to open. I also can't really tell any difference between the 338, 300wm, or 308 bolts, or either firing pin assembly either.

 

[Swiftt]

I’ll post some pics later of the cocking ramp and pin, I oiled the cocking ramp and anything else I could see that moved in the firing pin assembly and it got vastly better. It was to the point where you had to hit it with your palm multiple times to open it. Seems like a pretty fussy system if I have to oil the ramp in order to not have to open the bolt with a 2x4. I spoke to AI and got a “never heard of this, send it in”

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Whatever happened with this? I have one with very stiff bolt after dry fire, to the point I have to hold the rifle down with one hand and open it with the other closed fist. My wife who is a shooter herself cannot open it at all. I take it apart and oil it and it gets much better but returns.

He became a man …..problem solved

 

[Swiftt]

He became a man …..problem solved

Ahhhh yes, bc me having to use a 2x4 to open the bolt on this $10k piece of shit would define my manhood, thanks for the comment.

 

[Jlee]

He became a man …..problem solved

Becoming a man has nothing to do with this situation you twat. There is an obvious issue with the clearances within the firing pin assembly.

 

[Jlee]

The purpose of the forums is to collaborate with people that have experienced similar issues and can help you get through them. Not be a

 

[918v]

The AXSR has a very easy bolt lift. I suspect the bolt is binding against the barrel shank when in the the FP is forward.

 

[918v]

Check the barrel shoulder on your factory barrel vs the replacement.

 

[Swiftt]

Becoming a man has nothing to do with this situation you twat. There is an obvious issue with the clearances within the firing pin assembly.

I’ll post some pics later of the cocking ramp and pin, I oiled the cocking ramp and anything else I could see that moved in the firing pin assembly and it got vastly better. It was to the point where you had to hit it with your palm multiple times to open it. Seems like a pretty fussy system if I have to oil the ramp in order to not have to open the bolt with a 2x4. I spoke to AI and got a “never heard of this, send it in”

Check the barrel shoulder on your factory barrel vs the replacement.

All I have is the factory barrel, just bought the rifle new. The bolt to barrel clearance will change just from the firing pin being dropped? With the pin in the cocked position bolt runs very smooth.

 

[918v]

Yes. A cocked FP pulls the bolt away from the barrel. A decocked FP lets the bolt move forward.

Take the FP out of the bolt, put the bolt back in, and check how much clearance you have to eliminate that possibility.

Then look to the cocking piece, trigger parts, safety to see it it’s binding anywhere.

 

[Swiftt]

Check the barrel shoulder on

Yes. A cocked FP pulls the bolt away from the barrel. A decocked FP lets the bolt move forward.

Take the FP out of the bolt, put the bolt back in, and check how much clearance you have to eliminate that possibility.

Then look to the cocking piece, trigger parts, safety to see it it’s binding anywhere.

Ill definitely try that, I forgot to mention when I swapped out a friends firing pin assembly into my bolt it ran very smooth. Does that change that theory?

 

[918v]

Yes definitely. Then it’s the FP assembly.

 

[lte82]

I’ll post some pics later of the cocking ramp and pin, I oiled the cocking ramp and anything else I could see that moved in the firing pin assembly and it got vastly better. It was to the point where you had to hit it with your palm multiple times to open it. Seems like a pretty fussy system if I have to oil the ramp in order to not have to open the bolt with a 2x4. I spoke to AI and got a “never heard of this, send it in”

You shouldn’t have to do this, but you can polish the cocking ramp to smooth it out even more. I also use a little bit of grease, not oil, on the ramp. To me it sounds like the surface must be galled in some way, or an issue with the surface in general. Or possibly something binding with the firing pin assembly itself. You should be able to lift the bolt without touching the gun, and the gun shouldn’t move.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

The purpose of the forums is to collaborate with people that have experienced similar issues and can help you get through them. Not be a

And have fun with your friendsl

 

[MOUNTIC]

I have the same issue on one of my personal rifles with the factory Win mag bolt and FP assembly. Swapping the FP assembly to another bolt body and a new FP assembly in the original bolt makes the issue go away on both. Only when the original FP assembly is with the original bolt the excessive hard bolt lift exists. It would be at least 2-3x harder to open in the original configuration. I am chalking it up to tollarance stacking.

Edit to add... no barrel was installed at the time of this testing.

 

[BuLLet]

He could pull the barrel and work the bolt, that will tell if it's binding.

The AXSR has a very easy bolt lift. I suspect the bolt is binding against the barrel shank when in the the FP is forward.

 

[hafejd30]

I have the same issue on one of my personal rifles with the factory Win mag bolt and FP assembly. Swapping the FP assembly to another bolt body and a new FP assembly in the original bolt makes the issue go away on both. Only when the original FP assembly is with the original bolt the excessive hard bolt lift exists. It would be at least 2-3x harder to open in the original configuration. I am chalking it up to tollarance stacking.

Edit to add... no barrel was installed at the time of this testing.

Any chance you can measure the firing pins. Probably not the case but wondering if maybe the pin on one is larger and the firing pin hole in the bolt is just to snug of a fit…again probably stupid just brainstorming

 

[Swiftt]

You shouldn’t have to do this, but you can polish the cocking ramp to smooth it out even more. I also use a little bit of grease, not oil, on the ramp. To me it sounds like the surface must be galled in some way, or an issue with the surface in general. Or possibly something binding with the firing pin assembly itself. You should be able to lift the bolt without touching the gun, and the gun shouldn’t move.

Thanks, I’ll take some grease to it instead of oil and see if that helps. It became much better after the oil, tho I don’t know if it will stay down. It just seems kind of off for a rifle that costs this much to need the bolt babysat with lube for one handed bolt operation lol

I have the same issue on one of my personal rifles with the factory Win mag bolt and FP assembly. Swapping the FP assembly to another bolt body and a new FP assembly in the original bolt makes the issue go away on both. Only when the original FP assembly is with the original bolt the excessive hard bolt lift exists. It would be at least 2-3x harder to open in the original configuration. I am chalking it up to tollarance stacking.

He could pull the barrel and work the bolt, that will tell if it's binding.

I’m going to try this when I get home, pretty confident it’s narrowed into the FP assembly tho

 

[MOUNTIC]

Any chance you can measure the firing pins. Probably not the case but wondering if maybe the pin on one is larger and the firing pin hole in the bolt is just to snug of a fit…again probably stupid just brainstorming

Would be in a few days and I can measure some stuff.

I have many bolts and FP assemblies from a few different of my SRs here that I can interchange between. I'll see if it follows any specific bolt or FP assembly beyond the two I tested with. My other SRs here have been flawless. This is the first incounter with any AI issue I've had other then a comp trigger.

And being that I sell some AI rifles, I still have no problem discussing an issue or bringing up personal experiences if it helps sort it out for others. Stuff happens. AI is very good about addressing concerns.

 

[hafejd30]

Would be in a few days and I can measure some stuff.

I have many bolts and FP assemblies from a few different of my SRs here that I can interchange between. I'll see if it follows any specific bolt or FP assembly beyond the two I tested with. My other SRs here have been flawless. This is the first incounter with any AI issue I've had other then a comp trigger.

And being that I sell some AI rifles, I still have no problem discussing an issue or bringing up personal experiences if it helps sort it out for others. Stuff happens. AI is very good about addressing concerns.

Ever swap the trigger out during that issue?

 

[TylerN]

If you can narrow the issue down to just the bolt body and firing pin then you can just send in the bolt and FP to AINA. That would be easy to ship and they would probably get it taken care of quickly.

 

[Swiftt]

If you can narrow the issue down to just the bolt body and firing pin then you can just send in the bolt and FP to AINA. That would be easy to ship and they would probably get it taken care of quickly.

Nope, tried this. They want the whole rifle or nothing.

 

[MOUNTIC]

Ever swap the trigger out during that issue?

When it went away with swapping FP assemblies, I didn't swap triggers. Swapping SR triggers are little more involved anyways, as you need to have the correct ball Allen with small shank to get it to fit, and then having to punch out the roll pin out of the action. Not hard just not as easy as an AT/AX.

 

[trophyhunter]

Nope, tried this. They want the whole rifle or nothing.

Was the rifle new?
If not, any mods?

got confused in the talk

But with dry fire, you’re having an issue with heavy bolt lift?
When you live fire it, does it have the same issue?

Also try putting the safety on half, I’m guessing it opens and closed normally, almost with no effort.

On the firing pin assembly, does it have any really shiny spots? When the you dry fire, how much of firing pin is still protruding on back of shroud.

Can you drop pin on bolt and measure firing pin protrusion?

If your firing pin is either way to far out it could be contacting the the bolt inside, causing a rough lift. Also if your rollpins are just slightly touching the firing pin, you’d have rough lift.

 

[Swiftt]

Was the rifle new?
If not, any mods?

got confused in the talk

But with dry fire, you’re having an issue with heavy bolt lift?
When you live fire it, does it have the same issue?

Also try putting the safety on half, I’m guessing it opens and closed normally, almost with no effort.

On the firing pin assembly, does it have any really shiny spots? When the you dry fire, how much of firing pin is still protruding on back of shroud.

Can you drop pin on bolt and measure firing pin protrusion?

If your firing pin is either way to far out it could be contacting the the bolt inside, causing a rough lift. Also if your rollpins are just slightly touching the firing pin, you’d have rough lift.

The rifle is brand new, always been a bit stiff but I figured it was settling in. It got to the point Sunday when I was shooting a string of shots that it almost wouldn’t open. Box ammo, I then tried just dry fire and it was the same. My friend next to me also had a brand new AXSR and I then tried his and realized mine has been way to stiff from the word go, I had been cleaning and oiling it thinking it was breaking in and meanwhile he hasn’t touched his and it’s smooth as butter. After swapping his FP to mine it runs fine, in my bolt, in my rifle. I did take the action off mine to adjust the trigger and had to remove a trigger screw to get to the first stage length of pull. If that affected it in such a way that it has a stiff bolt lift I got no time for a “Mercedes rifle” in my life and I’ll get AI to fix it and I’ll sell it. I doubt this is the case bc it runs fine with my friends FP assembly. As far as firing pin protrusion I haven’t measured but I don’t think there is any, no noticeable shiny spots either. Although heavy oiling of the pin assembly and bolt ramp helps it significantly. Something is just a bit tight.

 

[lte82]

The rifle is brand new, always been a bit stiff but I figured it was settling in. It got to the point Sunday when I was shooting a string of shots that it almost wouldn’t open. Box ammo, I then tried just dry fire and it was the same. My friend next to me also had a brand new AXSR and I then tried his and realized mine has been way to stiff from the word go, I had been cleaning and oiling it thinking it was breaking in and meanwhile he hasn’t touched his and it’s smooth as butter. After swapping his FP to mine it runs fine, in my bolt, in my rifle. I did take the action off mine to adjust the trigger and had to remove a trigger screw to get to the first stage length of pull. If that affected it in such a way that it has a stiff bolt lift I got no time for a “Mercedes rifle” in my life and I’ll get AI to fix it and I’ll sell it. I doubt this is the case bc it runs fine with my friends FP assembly. As far as firing pin protrusion I haven’t measured but I don’t think there is any, no noticeable shiny spots either. Although heavy oiling of the pin assembly and bolt ramp helps it significantly. Something is just a bit tight.

So you had already narrowed it down to the firing pin assembly when you posted your issue? Sounds like an open shut case, and AINA will likely replace your FP assembly. If it were me, I'd send them the rifle, and then have them check 308 and 300wm bolts with the new FP assembly and buy both of them too! That way you know you won't have issues if/when you ever want the extra bolts.

 

[Swiftt]

So you had already narrowed it down to the firing pin assembly when you posted your issue? Sounds like an open shut case, and AINA will likely replace your FP assembly. If it were me, I'd send them the rifle, and then have them check 308 and 300wm bolts with the new FP assembly and buy both of them too! That way you know you won't have issues if/when you ever want the extra bolts.

Yeah I had it narrowed down, I was just reading he had a similar issue and was wondering if it was the same. As Mountic said he had a FP tight in one bolt and when he put the same pin into another bolt it was no longer tight, I’m not sure checking the new pin against 2 bolts they have in stock will make a bit of difference. I’ll have to buy 2 new bolts and see how they fit (if they even have them to sell) which at this point I don’t think I’ll be doing. Rifle seems pretty touchy and got some QC issues. If you gotta play Mr Potato head with a bolt and pin to find a good fit im out.

 

[Bacarrat]

At this point, I am positive it's something going on with the barrels. Me and a friend have new Proof barrels on our rifles and they do the exact same thing. Both rifles will not do it on any other barrel we run on the rifle, only the Proofs are doing it. Not sure if the barrel is too tight or the chamber is too tight that is causing this. Called Proof and they were no help.

 

[Huskydriver]

Was the rifle new?
If not, any mods?

got confused in the talk

But with dry fire, you’re having an issue with heavy bolt lift?
When you live fire it, does it have the same issue?

Also try putting the safety on half, I’m guessing it opens and closed normally, almost with no effort.

On the firing pin assembly, does it have any really shiny spots? When the you dry fire, how much of firing pin is still protruding on back of shroud.

Can you drop pin on bolt and measure firing pin protrusion?

If your firing pin is either way to far out it could be contacting the the bolt inside, causing a rough lift. Also if your rollpins are just slightly touching the firing pin, you’d have rough lift.

Axsr hava a 3 position safety?

 

[Swiftt]

At this point, I am positive it's something going on with the barrels. Me and a friend have new Proof barrels on our rifles and they do the exact same thing. Both rifles will not do it on any other barrel we run on the rifle, only the Proofs are doing it. Not sure if the barrel is too tight or the chamber is too tight that is causing this. Called Proof and they were no help.

I’m sure you will run into the two of them finger pointing at each other too. Good to know proof is out lol, shame bc they are the only ones available. Honestly it would make some sense bc it does get worse as the rifle heats, maybe there is some sort of issue in my FP assemble as well bc swapping it cured it. Combination of issues stacking? Either way I’m not impressed.

 

[TylerN]

AINA is typically reported as having excellent CS. They should be able to find the conclusive issue and solve it or at least explain how the Proof barrel is out of spec or causing an issue if that is the case. Or don't bother with that and I'll give you $99.99 for the junk AXSR