Ballistics App for 22lr

[IamJoHo]

So I am trying to find the best app for precision 22. I would love to get a Kestrel but with all the other money I’ve spent recently it’s just not a option for probably 6-12 months. What is everyone’s thoughts on the Applied Ballistics App? Worth the $30? Will it work with a Kestrel 5700 when I get one later? Is there something better?

 

[phlegethon]

The AB app, at least on the iPhone, is quite a few years out of date and really needs a complete overhaul. It will give you good data, but the interface is hideous, clunky, and will not even use the full screen. Also it's not needed if you get a Kestrel 5700 because that has the AB engine built in.

Strelok Pro gives me perfect solutions for 22LR with Center X.

 

[IamJoHo]

The AB app, at least on the iPhone, is quite a few years out of date and really needs a complete overhaul. It will give you good data, but the interface is hideous, clunky, and will not even use the full screen. Also it's not needed if you get a Kestrel 5700 because that has the AB engine built in.

Strelok Pro gives me perfect solutions for 22LR with Center X.

Did you have to tweak the Strelok app at all or just throw in rifle info and then good to go?

 

[phlegethon]

Did you have to tweak the Strelok app at all or just throw in rifle info and then good to go?

I didn't have to tweak anything, from 25 yards to 500.

 

[IamJoHo]

I didn't have to tweak anything, from 25 yards to 500.

Nice I will give it a try. Thanks.

 

[A&8's]

I use Strelok Pro.

A couple things I've noticed:

Like with all calcs, get your inputs as accurate as you can (Garbage in = Garbage out.)

Use Zero temp as ambient temp.

Zero at 35 or 50y (I personally zero at 32y).

Go to 100y, true FPS.

Go directly to 300y and true BC.

Atmospherics are very, very important with the tiny subsonic rounds. Where a change of DA of 1500 can be as little as .1 difference in CF. In RF, as little as 500DA changes can make a huge difference, once you get past 175y.

Doing the above, I'm dead nuts from 25 to 440y (verified) with B14R and Eley Club or Wolf MTE.

Also, turn spin drift ON. Spin drift is a real thing with 22's. I have an area on my range that can have 0 wind out to 440y. With a 1:18 RH twist 18", I have .4mil spin drift (verified.)

 

[6.5SH]

A new truing feature has been added to Strelok Pro.
Do a long press on the Truing button and you get the new option; now has 3 entries for distance and elevation.

A short press on the button gives the old single entry method.

 

[BoltRunner]

I 2nd Strelok for 22LR and Centerfire and its always been dead on, like A&8's said make sure you put in correct info and it will give you correct info back. Don't use the velocity on the box, I personally Chrono all my 22LR Ammo at 35F and 75F degrees to see FPS changes. I also make a laminated DOPE card that I keep on the rifle from 0-400yds with the 35F and 75F info just in case electronics die. Just my $0.02 cents

 

[flyfisher117]

Also, turn spin drift ON. Spin drift is a real thing with 22's. I have an area on my range that can have 0 wind out to 440y. With a 1:18 RH twist 18", I have .4mil spin drift (verified.)

I also use Strelok Pro. I'll have to try this spin drift. Been chasing my ass in circles trying to figure out why I keep having to dial windage. It's usually windy here but even dead calm mornings I'm dialing left..

 

[Geno C.]

Try the free Lapu app. Works really well for me when I’m shooting 22

 

[SoCalRayJr]

Has anyone here looked at the Kestrel 2700 for .22 ?
It says "Inside the Kestrel 2700 Ballistics Weather Meter is a powerful G1/G7 ballistics solver by Applied Ballistics to ensure that you hit your target on the first shot, out to 875 yards."
I would guess that this would be fine for .22, plus it is only $180 retail
Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[IamJoHo]

Has anyone here looked at the Kestrel 2700 for .22 ?
It says "Inside the Kestrel 2700 Ballistics Weather Meter is a powerful G1/G7 ballistics solver by Applied Ballistics to ensure that you hit your target on the first shot, out to 875 yards."
I would guess that this would be fine for .22, plus it is only $180 retail
Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

Yeah I was actually looking at this also or one of the 5000 and pairing it with the Strelok Pro app.

 

[6.5SH]

Has anyone here looked at the Kestrel 2700 for .22 ?
It says "Inside the Kestrel 2700 Ballistics Weather Meter is a powerful G1/G7 ballistics solver by Applied Ballistics to ensure that you hit your target on the first shot, out to 875 yards."
I would guess that this would be fine for .22, plus it is only $180 retail
Any input would be appreciated.

Thanks

Only the 5700 Elite models do DSF; Drop Scale Factoring, which is their subsonic truing function.
The AB engine in the 2700 is the "Ultralight" version that is feature limited.

ETA:
Kestrel's description of this function:
"https://kestrelballistics.com/faqs/question/view/id/281/#calibrating-drop-scale-factor"

A DSF guide image posted from @Dthomas3523 that is a bit different than the method on Kestrel's site:

DSF truing with 22 Rimfire

Has anyone done it on the Kestrel? Ranges used? How well does it work

www.snipershide.com

The .22 DSF guide on Kestrel's site that may be the old method:
"https://kestrelinstruments.com/mwdownloads/download/link/id/296/"

 

[rookie7]

Stupid question here, but does shooting downhill affect point of impact and dope?

I can sight in on pretty much level ground in my backyard, but for me to get to about 125 yards I am shooting downhill with probably a 10 to 15 foot elevation change.

 

[6.5SH]

Stupid question here, but does shooting downhill affect point of impact and dope?

I can sight in on pretty much level ground in my backyard, but for me to get to about 125 yards I am shooting downhill with probably a 10 to 15 foot elevation change.

Is more the angle involved, less than 10 degrees will likely be less than 1 click of whatever value your scope has at that distance.
Strelok Pro has a Slope angle entry right under Distance that uses your phone's camera.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Stupid question here, but does shooting downhill affect point of impact and dope?

I can sight in on pretty much level ground in my backyard, but for me to get to about 125 yards I am shooting downhill with probably a 10 to 15 foot elevation change.

Yes and no. Depends on the angle. It's ALWAYS shorter regardless of uphill or downhill. Your line of sight can be longer than the actual distance. The bullet is affected by gravity. Line of sight can be longer than the gravitational/Earth distance.

Generally you never have to consider this unless it's a steep hill or mountain side.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

Strelok Pro and use G1. I've tried RA4 and the Lapua Center X and the G1. G1 has been closer to actual observed dope every time.

Getting your velocity is critical. You can use a chronograph or shoot at several distances, the longer the better, and use the Strelok Trajectory Truing to get a correct velocity.

 

[rookie7]

Thank you. I've got some other issues with dope that have surfaced, but will tackle them one at a time.

 

[rookie7]

I use Strelok Pro.

A couple things I've noticed:

Like with all calcs, get your inputs as accurate as you can (Garbage in = Garbage out.)

Use Zero temp as ambient temp.

Zero at 35 or 50y (I personally zero at 32y).

Go to 100y, true FPS.

Go directly to 300y and true BC.

Atmospherics are very, very important with the tiny subsonic rounds. Where a change of DA of 1500 can be as little as .1 difference in CF. In RF, as little as 500DA changes can make a huge difference, once you get past 175y.

Doing the above, I'm dead nuts from 25 to 440y (verified) with B14R and Eley Club or Wolf MTE.

Also, turn spin drift ON. Spin drift is a real thing with 22's. I have an area on my range that can have 0 wind out to 440y. With a 1:18 RH twist 18", I have .4mil spin drift (verified.)

I have a few questions about your zero recommendation.

So why do you recommend 35 and 50 but not 25 yards? And what is your reasoning for a 32 yard zero?
Thanks

 

[Jefe's Dope]

I have a few questions about your zero recommendation.

So why do you recommend 35 and 50 but not 25 yards? And what is your reasoning for a 32 yard zero?
Thanks

It's minutia. The difference between a 25 yard zero and a 50 yard zero is .2 MIL. IOW, if you want to move your 25 yard zero to 50, turn two clicks Up. Now you're at 50. Works in reverse as well. My last match we had a 46 yard KYL. I run a 25 yard zero, Strelok called for .0 Mils. Just confirm your dope when you arrive. If you can't do that before, you'll figure it out during.

As for the 32 yard zero, I'm not 100% sure but something like not needing to ever hold under. IMO, it's just minutia that doesn't really matter on the range. Your time is better spent on the minutia beyond 100 yards. That's when it really begins to show up.

 

[phlegethon]

It's minutia. The difference between a 25 yard zero and a 50 yard zero is .2 MIL. IOW, if you want to move your 25 yard zero to 50, turn two clicks Up. Now you're at 50. Works in reverse as well. My last match we had a 46 yard KYL. I run a 25 yard zero, Strelok called for .0 Mils. Just confirm your dope when you arrive. If you can't do that before, you'll figure it out during.

As for the 32 yard zero, I'm not 100% sure but something like not needing to ever hold under. IMO, it's just minutia that doesn't really matter on the range. Your time is better spent on the minutia beyond 100 yards. That's when it really begins to show up.

Also remember if you are shooting rimfire PRS, the smallest targets are going to be KYLs and they are far taller than their width, so a .2 mil zero difference isn’t going to matter.

 

[A&8's]

I have a few questions about your zero recommendation.

So why do you recommend 35 and 50 but not 25 yards? And what is your reasoning for a 32 yard zero?
Thanks

My reasoning is: Most matches I go to have a 50y zero range. If I zero at 32y, my dope at 50y is 0, If I zero at 35y, my dope at 50y is .1. Not much, but when I check zero before a match, I want to be able to slip my turret back to zero vs .1. Too much going on 1st thing in the morning at a match and I know my pea brain will forget it needs to be .1 rather than 0.

 

[A&8's]

I have a few questions about your zero recommendation.

So why do you recommend 35 and 50 but not 25 yards? And what is your reasoning for a 32 yard zero?
Thanks

My reasoning for 32y zero is 2 fold.

1.) At 32y, unless there are gale force winds, the atmospherics don't have a chance to affect the bullet before it reaches the target. Same reason we zero at 100y for our CF's.

2.) 32y makes my wind calls easier to remember. I have a "7mph" gun. So, for every 7mph full value wind, I add .1 windage per 10y. 30y = .3, 40y = .4, 50y = .5, 60y = .6, etc. Just like my CF is a 6mph gun (100y = .1, 200y = .2, 300y = .3, and so on.)

 

[A&8's]

As for the 32 yard zero, I'm not 100% sure but something like not needing to ever hold under. IMO, it's just minutia that doesn't really matter on the range. Your time is better spent on the minutia beyond 100 yards. That's when it really begins to show up.

Actually, from about 40 to 47y, with my 32y zero, I need .1 down. However, most MD's set the majority of target in the 60-90y range (at least when 100y is their max.) Considering even a .25" KYL set at, say, 43y, my 32y zero will still make contact without dialing any.