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barloc for the Origin action

nrspence

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Oct 15, 2017
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I really like the idea of easy, quick, barrel swapping. Anyone have any knowledge on what it would take to use the ARC barloc for a shouldered barrel on the bighorn origin action? I wonder if the pinned recoil lug may cause problems.
 
Super easy solution:

Buy the BarLoc for a Savage prefit.
Trim the rail on the Origin back 0.20"
Buy a Savage prefit that has enough protrusion for the barrel to headspace properly without impinging on the bolt face and extractor.

AKA...

http://patriotvalleyarms.com/savage-pre-fit-barrel/

So you can’t just buy a shouldered barrel for the origin use a barloc and trim back the pic rail?
 
So you can’t just buy a shouldered barrel for the origin use a barloc and trim back the pic rail?
Sure you could.

No, you can't because the barloc goes in between the barrel shoulder and the face of the receiver. If you tried it without getting the barrel specifically cut for the BarLoc and the extra shank length required it would be dangerously unsupported and the cases would surely rupture.

To use a shouldered barrel for a BarLoc you need a barrel setup with the appropriate shank length.

To use an off the shelf barrel that has no accomodations for a BarLoc you need to use the Small Shank Savage prefit with a nut.
 
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No, you can't because the barloc goes in between the barrel shoulder and the face of the receiver. If you tried it without getting the barrel specifically cut for the BarLoc and the extra shank length required it would be dangerously unsupported and the cases would surely rupture.

To use a shouldered barrel for a BarLoc you need a barrel setup with the appropriate shank length.

To use an off the shelf barrel that has no accomodations for a BarLoc you need to use the Small Shank Savage prefit with a nut.

Josh, of course the shoulder needs to be positioned to accomodate the barloc, I wasn’t suggesting otherwise. His question to your response was as if he was boxed into a barrel nut in some way. Certainly the cost effective route from a barrel and barloc sale standpoint, but not the only route.
 
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Josh, of course the shoulder needs to be positioned to accomodate the barloc, I wasn’t suggesting otherwise. His question to your response was as if he was boxed into a barrel nut in some way. Certainly the cost effective route from a barrel and barloc sale standpoint, but not the only route.
Ahhhh, Ok. I misunderstood you guys and didn't want a rumor getting started. Good catch.
 
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who can cut a barrel specifically for a Barloc for the Origin and would I want "with recoil lug or without recoil lug"?
I already have a barrel that isn't a savage shank.

I'm not quite sure what you're asking here so forgive me if I'm restating what you already know.
You have to use the Origin recoil lug whether you use the Barloc or not.
If you have a barrel that's setup for a Bighorn TL3 and you want to use it on an Origin I/we can make it fit.
We can also adapt it to use the BarLoc with your current barrel.
100 bucks plus return shipping.
 
I'm not quite sure what you're asking here so forgive me if I'm restating what you already know.
You have to use the Origin recoil lug whether you use the Barloc or not.
If you have a barrel that's setup for a Bighorn TL3 and you want to use it on an Origin I/we can make it fit.
We can also adapt it to use the BarLoc with your current barrel.
100 bucks plus return shipping.

I have a brand new barrel - 1.250 shank. I want to use it on a Bighorn Origin with Barloc shouldered version.

If you can do this send shipping instructions and info.
thank you
 
I guess the advantage of using a barlok with a shouldered barrel would be the ability to loosen the barrel with just an allen wrench. You wouldn't need a barrel vise or an action wrench. But, you would have to headspace the barrel everytime you installed it, where with a straight shouldered barrel, you can just screw it in and tighten it. Headspacing is correct. Also, with a barloc, you will probably have to take the barreled action out of the chassis. Since I don't tighten shouldered barrels very tight, I can switch barrels with an action wrench and a barrel vise without removing the action from the chassis. I do both systems and both work well. Headspacing doesn't take long, but it is an extra step everytime you switch barrels.
PS. Josh , the 6 x 47 you built for me shoots lights out. Easily .2's and usually .1's.