Gunsmithing Barrel change for an M2008 308

[ZLBubba]

I bought an M2008 originally knowing that I'd want a couple different barrels for it. I'm now in the process of getting a new barrel cut for my rifle (going from a shorty 308 to a 26" 260).

This will be my first time switching out barrels for my rifle. I'm ordering a tubb vise, Thunderbeast AI action wrench, go/no-go gauges, and will use leather or wood to keep from marring the barrel. Are there any other tools I'll need for this job? How difficult is the whole process? Are there any common pitfalls that I need to be aware of when doing this? Is there a line-by-line method for doing this or is the operation pretty straightforward?

I'd be very interested if anyone had a video link for this. I found one from Midway but the presenter blocked the shot of the action with the vise.

Thanks for your help.

 

[salmonaxe]

Re: Barrel change for an M2008 308

Recently I started using sugar to protect the barrel and give really good grip. Just wet the sugar a bit to make it sorta a slurry and then put it on the barrel where you'll be clamping it. Then I wrap that part of the barrel with some printer paper.

I also use a piece of cardboard in between the action and the tab(on the action wrench) that engages the port of the receiver.

I use a breaker bar to break the barrel free. None of my barrels are on very tight only 50 ft/lbs. When I replace them, I use 50 ft/lbs on my torque wrench. I use Moly infused lithium grease on the barrel tenon as an anti-cease.

I remove the firing pin from the bolt in order to check headspace. This gives you a better feel of whether the bolt is closing or not. Go should allow the bolt to easily close with no resistance(or very little). No-Go shouldn't close, but you might be able to get the bolt handle to turn about 10 degrees or so.

Your headspace gauges can extract and eject with authority. Keep a mag in the magazine well and block the ejection port with your hand when retrieving them. Sucks if they fly out and onto the floor.

I originally bought Forster headspace gauges and they sucked ass. Compared with the hornady comparator, they were not the size that they said they were. (Same with checking them against an LE Wilson case gauge.) I then bought PTG headspace gauges which were WAY better. Also, PTG was the reamer that my smith used so it seemed like a better idea.

Remember that the action has a breach ring inside of it that the bolt engages. Be sure to not accidentally drop it out of the action. It is only held in place by the barrel. Also make sure that it's properly indexed. There's a pin at 12 o'clock which indexes it.

There are 2 generations of badger M2008 short actions. Make sure to know which one you have so you can get your barrel cut to the correct spec. The spec for each is different and they are not compatible. I think anything after serial #0200 is the new generation.

 

[Onemoretime]

Sorry to bring this back up but, I have a barrel I bought here on the hide that is for an M2008. I installed it on my M2013 and tightened it down to only 50 ft pounds but the MB on the barrel is not directed properly (timed?). Is this something I'll have to adjust at the MB end? Do I need to tighten the barrel MORE.

The bolt DOES NOT close on a NoGo Gauge and DOES close on a Go Gauge so it headspaces.

I'm assuming I need to "re-time" the MB or remove it.

 

[poison123]

Yes. It needs to be timed based on the actual gun its on.

 

[Onemoretime]

That's what I thought... thanks. Now gotta get some crush washers...

 

[turbo54]

That's what I thought... thanks. Now gotta get some crush washers...

A peel washer is a better solution.

 

[Onemoretime]

A peel washer is a better solution.

Roger That.