Gunsmithing Barrel Lapping
- Thread starter Shooter04
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Re: Barrel Lapping
Good quality barrels are already lapped, economy barrels probably aren't and shooting will acomplish pretty much the same thing.
Good quality barrels are already lapped, economy barrels probably aren't and shooting will acomplish pretty much the same thing.
Re: Barrel Lapping
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Exhogflyer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Good quality barrels are already lapped, economy barrels probably aren't and shooting will acomplish pretty much the same thing. </div></div>
+1
I have a couple Kreiger barrels, they are all smooth and shiny as can be. I did use the final finish system on a couple of factory savages, and they shoot and clean much better!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Exhogflyer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Good quality barrels are already lapped, economy barrels probably aren't and shooting will acomplish pretty much the same thing. </div></div>
+1
I have a couple Kreiger barrels, they are all smooth and shiny as can be. I did use the final finish system on a couple of factory savages, and they shoot and clean much better!!
Re: Barrel Lapping
Shooter,
If you've got $500 set aside to put on a new barrel if you screw up what you got, then read on.
I've done it both ways, but it's not for folks who tend to overdo things, or cannot scrupulously clean their complete action and barrel. It takes lot of time with either method. Figure at least 2-4 hours. If you get the NECO kit to make lapping bullets, it will take another 2-4 hours to make the bullets. You have to choose between lead bullets or jacketed bullets, each has a different wear pattern if you choose to make bullets. Then you have to find a reduced powder load to shoot the bullets. Abrasive bullets can be purchased from NECO or SSI if you wish to go that route. If you are going to do only one barrel, it's probably the best way.
Hand lapping can be done like the big boys do; with lead slugs, or with patches. I don't have the equipment to make slugs, so I hand lap with patches. Find out how many patches to make a very tight fit in the bore, then apply grit and push through the barrel. Clean well before, when changing grits, and after applies to both methods.
Disclaimer: The above is a short description of what has to be done. If you use a manufacturers supplies, follow their directions. You can do it yourself, but if you screw it up, you are on your own.
DocB
Shooter,
If you've got $500 set aside to put on a new barrel if you screw up what you got, then read on.
I've done it both ways, but it's not for folks who tend to overdo things, or cannot scrupulously clean their complete action and barrel. It takes lot of time with either method. Figure at least 2-4 hours. If you get the NECO kit to make lapping bullets, it will take another 2-4 hours to make the bullets. You have to choose between lead bullets or jacketed bullets, each has a different wear pattern if you choose to make bullets. Then you have to find a reduced powder load to shoot the bullets. Abrasive bullets can be purchased from NECO or SSI if you wish to go that route. If you are going to do only one barrel, it's probably the best way.
Hand lapping can be done like the big boys do; with lead slugs, or with patches. I don't have the equipment to make slugs, so I hand lap with patches. Find out how many patches to make a very tight fit in the bore, then apply grit and push through the barrel. Clean well before, when changing grits, and after applies to both methods.
Disclaimer: The above is a short description of what has to be done. If you use a manufacturers supplies, follow their directions. You can do it yourself, but if you screw it up, you are on your own.
DocB
Re: Barrel Lapping
Hand lapping is time intensive, i have lapped several barrels with good results not amasing results but well worth the work, this is what i have done: any cleaning rod with a hard plastic brush in the caliber you will be lapping Clover lapping compound, my usual method is apllying a liberal amount of 320 grit to the brush and lapping for 320 strokes then i use a "mop" attachment with the 500 grit for smoothing things over, not perfect nor scientific but effective and easy on the pocket, and your gonna spend twice as long cleaning it out as you did lapping...
Hand lapping is time intensive, i have lapped several barrels with good results not amasing results but well worth the work, this is what i have done: any cleaning rod with a hard plastic brush in the caliber you will be lapping Clover lapping compound, my usual method is apllying a liberal amount of 320 grit to the brush and lapping for 320 strokes then i use a "mop" attachment with the 500 grit for smoothing things over, not perfect nor scientific but effective and easy on the pocket, and your gonna spend twice as long cleaning it out as you did lapping...
Re: Barrel Lapping
The reason I'm asking is because I have a Savage 99e with a pretty rough bore, and I don't want to have to rebarrel it, but I can if I have to. I'm really gonna use it as a field test for barrel lapping a really rough barrel, just to see if it improves accuracy on a too far gone bore. And if it still shoots bad then I'll just have to slap a new barrel on. Thanks for the input guys.
The reason I'm asking is because I have a Savage 99e with a pretty rough bore, and I don't want to have to rebarrel it, but I can if I have to. I'm really gonna use it as a field test for barrel lapping a really rough barrel, just to see if it improves accuracy on a too far gone bore. And if it still shoots bad then I'll just have to slap a new barrel on. Thanks for the input guys.
Re: Barrel Lapping
Clover sucks. I don't allow it within breathing distance of a rifle bore. Look up US Products lapping pastes, they sell little jars..Look for the 38White products, maybe start with 180 and work up to 320 with rougher bores, start with 240 and end with 320 for better lookers..38W is an aluminum oxide 'type' which breaks down as it's worked, so it cuts then polishes..
Clover sucks. I don't allow it within breathing distance of a rifle bore. Look up US Products lapping pastes, they sell little jars..Look for the 38White products, maybe start with 180 and work up to 320 with rougher bores, start with 240 and end with 320 for better lookers..38W is an aluminum oxide 'type' which breaks down as it's worked, so it cuts then polishes..
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